Hide the cheese

Kale and Clementine Salad

Raw kale salads are everywhere now and I'm jumping onto the bandwagon. In experimenting with this recipe, I tried a few different approaches to preparing the kale. First I tried just adding the dressing to the kale. This wasn't bad, but the dressing didn't incorporate very well into the salad and didn't do much to soften the kale.

One recipe I found calls for pouring boiling over the kale to soften it. I liked this approach because it was straightforward. The salad tasted good and the kale was a bit softer, but, again, the dressing mostly ended up in the bottom of the bowl.

The last approach I tried was massaging the dressing into the kale. I resisted this approach because, well, kale just didn't seem like something I wanted to massage. I barely have time to massage the people that I love and only rarely -- and usually as the result of a gift -- have I had a massage myself. So, kale? Who has time for that?

But when my other approaches didn't work, I resigned to give it a try. The good news/bad news is that it worked very well. The dressing incorporated well into the kale and along the way, it softened the kale just a touch. The kale was still good and chewy, but the massaging took the edge off. The even better news is that it really didn't take that long. Just a few minutes of working the kale with my fingers was enough to get the job done.

This salad has been perfect for this time of year, when I'm craving the taste of spring, but the spring vegetables aren't yet available at the farmers' market. There is still a lot of kale available, but, instead of cooking it into a heavier dish, eating it raw freshens it up. The citrus and sweetness of the clementines is a bright foil for the kale, too, giving the salad a lighter touch that has seemed just right to us as the days get longer and warmer.

And when I say "us," no, I do not mean the kiddies. Although Olivia and Chloe do like kale, they haven't been wild about this salad. But Gabe and I have been happily munching through it, feeling it do its work as the antidote to the excesses of many birthday celebrations and vacation eating.
2009: Kale Chips
2010: Greens and Basil Risotto
2011: Green Lasagne
2012: Green Apple Fizz

Kale and Clementine Salad
15-20 minutes preparation time

Unlike lettuce salads, this salad can be made in advance. The salad keeps well after the dressing has been added, even for a day or two.

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 bunch kale (about 8 cups after it is sliced)
2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced
4 clementines, peeled and broken into sections

In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice and soy sauce. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking continuously.

Remove the spines from the kale. Lay the pieces flat on a cutting board and slice the kale across into very, very thin strips. Toss the kale strips in a salad bowl with the dressing, rubbing the leaves between your fingertips until all of the dressing is incorporated.

Add the scallions and clementine sections, and toss gently. Serve immediately or refrigerate for a day or so.

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Classic Gazpacho

When the weather is beastly hot, gazpacho is an excellent antidote. Fresh taste, no oven or stovetop to heat up the house, the best seasonal produce.

Really, that's it.

It's hot. Make gazpacho. Be cool.

2009: Smoky Deviled Eggs
2010: Brown Buttered Zucchini with Spaghetti
2011: Sushi Rice Salad

Classic Gazpacho

This gazpacho is a basic recipe that can be tweaked to your liking. Love garlic? Cilantro? Lime? Go wild! If you like more spice, increase the jalapeno or add just a bit at the beginning and, after everything is blended, taste the soup and add more jalapeno if you like.

My approach is to blend the strongest flavors most thorougly at the beginning to ensure that they will be spread uniformly throughout the soup. The milder vegetable flavors can be left more chunky.

The soup can be made ahead. The flavors will intensify and are even better after it has had a chance to sit overnight.

Serves 8
30 minutes preparation time, plus about 2 hours for chilling

4 slices peasant wheat or similar hearty wheat bread, crusts removed and cut coarsely (about 2 cups)
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1/4 jalapeno pepper
5 large tomatoes, diced
2 cups yellow cherry tomatoes, halved
2 cucumbers, peeled and diced
2 red, yellow, or orange peppers, seeded, cored, and diced
1 teaspoon cumin
juice of 1 or 2 limes (about 1/4 cup)
3/4 cup cilantro
1/4 cup parsley
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup Spanish olive oil

Set aside about two cups of the tomato, cucumber, and pepper to add back at the end for texture.

Pour half a cup of water over the bread and let it sit for about a minute. Squeeze out the water with your hands. Put the bread in a blender with the garlic, jalapeno pepper, and some of the tomato. Blend to a fine puree. Pour into a large bowl or soup tureen.

Blend the all of the remaining ingredients except the olive oil in batches. I don't blend the successive batches as finely so that the soup has a variety of textures. If needed, add some water, up to 2 cups total.

Add the olive oil to the last batch of vegetables and blend until the olive oil emulsifies. Add to the bowl with the other batches of blended vegetables. Add the remaining chopped vegetables and stir everything to combine. Refrigerate until the soup is thoroughly chilled, about 2 hours.

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Bite-Sized Apple Brown Bettys

Sometimes I think our world is shrinking. Before we had children, I thought nothing of driving several hours to New York or Philadelphia for a celebratory dinner with friends. After our oldest child was born, the road trips dwindled, but we still spent a lot of time with friends all over the D.C. area, even if it meant driving an hour for a visit.

In those days, we parents were still in control of our schedules, and we went where our friends were.

But things have changed. I suppose it happened slowly, as we added another two children to the family. But it seems that they have grown suddenly to become individuals in their own right. Now they have interests. They have places that they want to go. They have their own friends to visit. And even with two chauffeurs parents to shuttle them, our weekends fill up with activities and a trip to visit friends, even those in the D.C. metro area, seems impossible. 

These days, we parents are no longer in control of our own schedules, but we have found excellent friends where we have gone. There, on the side of the soccer field or in an overheated cafeteria filled with excited children we have made new friends, some of whom I hope will be friends long after our children are grown and the activities that brought us together are a distant memory.

As our world has shrunk and we have pulled the circle even closer to home, our neighborhood also has become an increasingly important part of our social life. We are blessed with fantastic neighbors. Admittedly, some of them became neighbors by design. My high school friend, a realtor, already lived in the neighborhood and found my sister a house here, too. When we saw a great house for sale in the neighborhood a year later, we didn't hesitate. And a few years ago one of my sister's college friends moved into the area and wisely bought a house two doors down from my sister.

But even those that weren't socially engineered into the neighborhood have turned out to be wonderful neighbors who love to socialize. A few weeks back, some of the more ambitious party organizers planned a progressive party. I volunteered to make dessert because I'm always looking for an opportunity to bake, especially when I don't have to eat all the leftovers.

We decided that to keep things easy, we'd make desserts that didn't need a fork or even a plate, unless of course someone wanted to amass a small pile. I had offered to make something with fruit, but pies and tarts were out. I came across these tiny Brown Bettys on Smitten Kitchen which appealed to me not only because they were tiny, fruity, and cute, but also because the crust was made with slices of bread. Interesting. And a bit easier than making a crust, a shortcut that seemed a good idea for a large scale operation.

I have to admit that I also made these chocolate goodies for the party and they were definitely more popular. But the Brown Bettys were good. Really good. The brown butter gives them a slightly nutty flavor and the tart apples along with the cardamom and lemon dial up the zestiness. Chloe tasted one (just to make sure that they were edible) and said, "These taste like a dream come true."

If our world keeps getting smaller and smaller it will just be us, hanging out at home together. Eating as many Brown Bettys as we want.

I can live with that.

2009:  Blueberry Crumb Cake
2010:  Roses des Sables
2011:  Clementine Sorbet and Teal Toes

Bite-Sized Apple Brown Bettys

Makes about 2 dozen Brown Bettys
30 minutes preparation time
30 minutes baking time

From Gourmet via Smitten Kitchen

for the Brown Bettys:
1 cup melted butter
8 slices white sandwich bread
2 tart apples, such as Granny Smiths
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
pinch of salt
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
3/4 cup breadcrumbs, preferably homemade

for garnish:
1 cup heavy cream, whipped
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Melt the butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Once it has melted, turn the heat to low and, stirring occasionally, let it brown. As soon as the butter starts to darken, watch it carefully. Let it go for about another 30 seconds, until it turns a medium-brown color and smells slightly nutty.

Cut the crusts off of the bread slices. (Save the scraps to make bread crumbs). Roll each slice with a rolling pin to flatten it.

Cut the bread into circles large enough to line the muffin tins, including covering the sides. It may take some trial and error to find the right tool for cutting the circles, but there is sure to be something in the kitchen -- a jar lid, the bottom of a salt shaker, a small glass -- that will be the right size. (Again, reserve the bread scraps for bread crumbs).

Brush each side of each circle with brown butter and arrange the circles into the muffin cups. If the circles tear, patch them with pieces of the scraps, but they need not be perfect. Any flaws will be inconspicuous in the final product.

Peel and finely dice the apples. Toss them with any remaining butter, the cinnamon, cardamom, lemon zest, salt, and bread crumbs. Spoon the filling into the shells so that the filling just rises above the side of the shell. Cover the pan with foil. Cook with the foil on for 10 minutes, then remove the foil and finish cooking until the crusts are lightly brown and the apples are tender, about 15 more minutes.

To make the whipped cream, whip the cream in a mixer. Once the cream begins to thicken, add the sugar and vanilla.

When the Brown Bettys are done, turn them onto a cooling rack. They can be served warm or at room temperature. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

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Herbed Goat Cheese and Lentil Crostini

Party Time

Act 1

The setting:  Brand spanking new kitchen, open for business

The event: Oscar night

The cast: Gabe, Margy, Olivia, Oscar, Chloe, swirling around, cooking, setting out glasses, silverware, napkins.

The action: Small groups of adults and children arrive, family and neighbors, casually dressed, bearing food and drink. People gather in small groups, begin chatting, laughing.

[Exit Margy, stage left] We hear her greeting new guests as they arrive.

[Enter two adults and two children with a tray of food.]

[Enter Margy, stage left] We see her pause, survey the scene for a full minute, smile.

She enters back into the fray, chatting, pouring wine, passing appetizers.

Party time.

2009: Mom's Cheese Spread
2010: Crêpes
2011: Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata

Herbed Goat Cheese and Lentil Crostini

Each of the three components of this dish -- the baguette toasts, the lentils, and the goat cheese spread -- can be made ahead and stored in airtight containers. Store the toasts at room temperature and the goat cheese and lentils in the refrigerator. If the toasts lose their crispness, reheat them in the oven for a couple of minutes before assembling. Bring the lentils and goat cheese to room temperature before assembling the crostini.

Adapted from Heidi Swanson's Super Natural Cooking
Makes about 30 crostini
30 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

For the crostini:
1 baguette
approximately 1/4 cup olive oil
1 garlic clove

For the lentils:
1/2 cup small French (Le Puy) lentils
1 teaspoon salt

For the goat cheese spread:
8 ounces soft goat cheese, such as Chèvre
a few splashes of milk
3 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, preferably chives and flat leaf parsley, plus more for garnish

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

While the oven is heating, slice the baguette. Layer the slices in a single layer on a cookie sheet. Brush each slice on both sides with olive oil. Toast the slices in the oven until they are golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove them from the oven and set them aside to cool. Slice the tip off one end of the garlic clove and, when the toasts have cooled, rub the garlic clove over the top of each toast. Set aside.

Put the lentils in a small saucepan and bring them to a simmer over medium-high heat. Turn the heat down to low, add the salt, stir, and simmer the lentils until they are tender but still hold their shape, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain the lentils and set them aside.

In a small bowl, mash the goat cheese with a fork, adding a couple of splashes of milk, until the mixture becomes a spreadable consistency. Add the fresh herbs and mix just until they are fully incorporated.

To assemble the crostini, spread a thick layer of goat cheese onto each toast. Top with a teaspoon or so of lentils and a sprinkle of chives.

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Cooking with Mother Goose: Classic Apple Pie

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes.


Simple Simon   

Simple Simon met a pieman,
Going to the fair;
Said Simple Simon to the pieman,
Let me taste your ware.

Said the pieman to Simple Simon,
Show me first your penny;
Said Simple Simon to the pieman,
Indeed I have not any.

Simple Simon went a-fishing,
For to catch a whale;
All the water he had got,
Was in his mother's pail.

Simple Simon went to look
If plums grew on a thistle;
He pricked his fingers very much,
Which made poor Simon whistle

I only remember the first verse of Simple Simon, but I think of it whenever I make a pie. It also reminds me of our friend Simon, although it is not the most favorable portrayal of a Simon, is it? Maybe someday we can write a new version in which Simon has a bit more fun. (Here's the Three Stooges' riff on it).

When I realized that I had never posted an apple pie recipe on this site, I knew I had to remedy that immediately. I use this site myself as an electronic database of our favorite recipes, and now that it's apple season, I know I will need an apple pie recipe again and again.

This recipe is just a simple pie recipe, but I tried to achieve the right balance of flavors, adding a bit of lemon and cardamom to go along with the more traditional spices. The lemony twist in the filling brightens up the apple flavor. The cardamom adds a bit of tang, too, although it also has an earthiness that complements the cinnamon and nutmeg. The filling was so good that I had to stop myself from eating it before I baked it into the pie.

So here's a simple apple pie recipe for Simple Simon, or anyone else who loves apple pie.

Second Helping: Triple Ginger Zucchini Bread
Thirds: Chunky Apple Muffins

Classic Apple Pie

Serves 8-10
Appriximately 60 minutes preparation time
60 minutes baking time

1 recipe basic pie crust
6 large apples (about 3 1/2 pounds), preferably a mix of varieties such as Honeycrisp, Granny
    Smith, and Jonagold, peeled, cored, and sliced
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 cup granulated sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Make the dough according to the recipe and put it in the refrigerator to chill.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Toss the apples in a bowl with the cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, 1/2 cup sugar, and flour. Add the lemon zest and juice and mix thoroughly.

After the dough has chilled, roll out the larger piece of dough and transfer it to a 9-inch pie plate. Scoop the apples into the crust, leaving behind any liquid.

Roll out the second piece of dough until it is about 10 inches in diameter and transfer it onto the top of the apple filling. Trim the edge of the crust to even it out, if necessary.  Fold the edges under and crimp the top and bottom crust together. Cut a few slits into the top crust. Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of sugar over the top of the pie. 

Bake the pie on the bottom rack of the oven for 10 minutes, then turn the oven temperature to 350 degrees and cook for about 50 minutes longer, until the crust is lightly browned and the filling is bubbling.  If the crust begins to brown too quickly, tent a piece of foil over the top.

Let the pie cool for at least an hour to let it set.

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Fresh Figs with Ricotta, Honey, and Pistachios

Some days it all comes tumbling down, that balance that I have so carefully tried to maintain in my life as a working mother.

Some days I can see all my mistakes but feel powerless to stop them. Children are so good at reflecting those flaws back onto us, aren't they?

Some days I feel like everything I am doing is falling short and I am failing as a parent, wife, friend, employee, and most certainly as a housekeeper and laundress.

Yesterday was like that. The children took turns acting up and I could see my mistakes and bad habits in their behavior. Instead of keeping cool and doing some quality parenting, I got mad and lost it. And then I got mad at myself for losing it.

Not a good day.

But today is a new day and it will be different. I hope it will be better, too, but at least it will be different. I will try to learn from yesterday's mistakes and to take a deep breath (or three) before I react.

If all else fails, I will cook my way through my mood. I will make something delicious and beautiful. And I will be prepared with a smile and an understanding shrug if the children won't even touch it.

Secong Helping: Peach Macarons
Thirds: Fig and Port Jam

Fresh Figs with Ricotta, Honey and Pistachio

These figs are equally good as an appetizer or as a light dessert.

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time

9 fresh figs
1/4 to 1/2 cup ricotta (if you're local, I love Blue Ridge Dairy's)
a few drizzles of honey
2 tablespoons pistachios, toasted and chopped

Slice the figs in half from top to bottom. Arrange them on a serving plate with their cut sides facing up.

Add about a teaspoon of ricotta to each fig. Drizzle generously with honey. Sprinkle with the toasted pistachios.

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Freshened Up Eggplant Parmesan

Eggplant parmesan has had me in a quandary. The best eggplants are available at farmers' markets at this time of year, so this should be the best time of year to make it. But it has never seemed like a summer dish to me. The breaded, fried eggplant, loads of sauce and cheesy goodness have their place, but it seems a wintry place to me, best eaten when the weather is cold outside and a good dish of comfort is in order.

We needed a summer version of eggplant parmesan, and this is my crack at it. Instead of breading and frying the eggplant, we sliced it thinly and roasted it. Our sauce was Cherry Tomato Almost Sauce, barely saucy at all, and we used a bit of ricotta as well as the traditional mozzarella to give the whole thing a fresher flavor.






It scratched my eggplant parmesan itch. The children loved it, too, except for Chloe, who separated all her eggplant -- and perhaps anything that had touched the eggplant -- over to the side of her plate.

Now I just have to figure out how to preserve this season's excellent eggplants to make a wintry version a few months from now.

Second Helping: Smoky Eggplant Parmesan
Thirds: Homemade Ricotta

Freshened Up Eggplant Parmesan

Serves 6 to 8
45 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

4 small globe eggplants
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
sea salt to taste
1 quart cherry tomatoes
1/2 pound fresh mozzarella
15 basil leaves
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 pound fresh ricotta
1 cup grated parmesan

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Trim the ends of the eggplant. Slice a small bit of the skin off one of the sides of the eggplant. Rest the eggplant on that side and thinly slice the eggplant vertically (discard the first piece, which will be mostly skin). Arrange the eggplant slices on a baking sheet and lightly brush them with olive oil. Sprinkle with sea salt.

Roast the eggplant in the oven until it is lightly brown, about 10 minutes. After removing the eggplant from the oven, lower the temperature to 350 degrees.

While the eggplant is cooking, make the sauce. The recipe for the Almost Sauce is here.

Spread a ladleful of the tomatoes in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch casserole pan. Add a layer of eggplant and then add some of the tomato sauce, half of the mozzarella and half of the basil. Drizzle with some of the egg. Add another layer of eggplant, then tomato sauce, then the ricotta, then the remaining basil. Again, drizzle with the egg. Continue layering until you have used all of the ingredients. The last layers should be tomato sauce, the remaining mozzarella, and the parmesan, in that order.

Bake until the tomato sauce is bubbling and the cheese on top has melted, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand for a few minutes before serving.

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Saffron-Laced Ratatouille

This is the time of year when I go crazy at the farmers' market. I'm like a kid at the proverbial candy store, filling my bags with as much gorgeous produce as I can. I should go with one hand tied behind my back so that I am limited to what I can carry (Gabe, don't get any ideas). Instead, I prefer if someone else comes to keep me company and to help carry. After all, the leaves will be falling off the trees before we know it, so we have to make the most of it.

Ratatouille is the perfect dish to make using all of that produce. It uses eggplant, tomato, zucchini, and peppers, and the flavors are excellent together. The saffron adds warmth to the dish, while the basil and parsley, added at the end, keep the flavors fresh. It can be eaten either warm or cold, depending on your mood and the thermometer outside.

I got the idea to throw in a pinch of saffron after reading Lunch in Paris, which was a fun summer read. Instead of Eat, Pray, Love in three countries, it's Eat, Love in Paris.

I made this while we were on vacation along with some quinoa with the thought that I would just keep it on hand in the refrigerator to have for lunch. It didn't last more than a couple of days, though. I don't think the children even tried it. I'll have to make another batch while the veggies are at the height of their season. The only question is whether I'll share.

Second helping: Red Wine Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Crostini
Thirds: Pasta with Ricotta and Summer Herbs

Saffron-Laced Ratatouille

This recipe is infinitely variable. Use whatever vegetables you have in the quantities you like, and it will be delicious. I like the technique of cooking the vegetables separately to bring out their individual flavors, but if you're in a hurry, you can cook them together.

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more if needed
2 medium onions
4 garlic cloves
salt
2 medium eggplants, skin still on, diced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
2 medium zucchini, diced
4 fresh medium-sized tomatoes, diced
pinch of saffron
1/3 cup torn basil
1/3 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
cooked quinoa or couscous for serving (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a large pan (I used my Creuset stock pot). Add the onions and cook for about 5 minutes and then add the garlic and cook for about 2 more minutes. Remove from the pan. If the pan is dry, add another splash of olive oil. Add the eggplant and a pinch of salt and cook until the eggplant has softened, about 8 minutes. Remove from the pan. Again, if the pan is dry, add more olive oil. Add the zucchini and a pinch of salt and cook until it is tender, about 5 minutes.

Add the onions, garlic, and eggplant back to the pan, along with the tomatoes and the saffron. Cook until the vegetables are meltingly soft, about an hour. Just before serving, add the basil and parsley and stir.

Serve hot or cold, over couscous or quinoa, if you like.

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Sushi Rice Salad

This time of year when we often take our meals with us -- to the pool, the park, or even to the back porch -- I'm a big fan of those all-in-one-bowl meals. Sushi is perfect for the summer weather, too, because it is light and refreshing when it is too hot to have a heavy meal.



This salad fits the bill. It is cool, crunchy and refreshing. I made it recently and was shocked to realize that I hadn't posted it here yet. It is definitely worth sharing and has become a family favorite.

The original recipe, from Moosewood Restaurant Lowfat Favorites calls for brown rice, but we often make it with white rice. Sushi rice is available at our Whole Foods, but if you can't find it, another short grain -- even arborio -- would do. The wasabi can be adjusted to make it as hot as you like. I like the salad cold, though, and try to make it in advance so that it has plenty of time to cool off in the refrigerator before we want to serve it.

Second Helping: Brown Buttered Zucchini with Spaghetti
Thirds: Purple Cauliflower Soup

Sushi Rice Salad

Adapted from Moosewood Restaurant Lowfat Favorites
Serves 8
20 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time, plus time for chilling

The amount of wasabi in this recipe adds just a touch of flavor without too much heat. It's perfect for children, but if you like a stronger punch, add more. Either way, make some extra to serve on the side with the salad.

2 cups sushi (short grain) rice
3 1/2 cups water
2/3 cup rice vinegar
4 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons freshly grated ginger
4 small carrots, peeled and diced
2 red (or yellow or orange) bell peppers, seeded and diced
3 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and diced
3 teaspoons wasabi powder, plus more for serving
1 sheet nori seaweed
2 tablespoons black sesame seeds, toasted
2 ripe avocadoes, peeled and sliced lentghwise

Rinse the rice,  and add it and the water to a medium-sized stockpot,. Bring the water to a boil. Lower the heat to simmer, cover the pot and cook for 20 minutes. 

While the rice is cooking, prepare the sauce. Add the vinegar, sugar, salt, and ginger to a small saucepan. Bring it to a boil and let it simmer for 5 minutes. Set aside.

When the rice is done, toss the sauce with the rice. Add the 3 teaspoons of water to the wasabipowder and mix. Stir the wasabi into the rice. Put in the refrigerator to cool.

Fill a medium half full of water and bring it to a boil. Add the carrots and cook for a minute, then add the bell peppers and cook for about another two minutes. The vegetables should have softened, but retain a bit of texture (they shouldn't be mushy). Drain and set the veggies aside to cool.

Toast the sesames by putting them in a saute pan over a medium flame until they are fragrant, about 5 minutes. Pour them out of the pan onto a plate to cool. Toast the sheets of nori in the same saute pan until they darken, about 1 or 2 minutes. When they are cool enough handle, crumble them into small pieces.

When the carrots and peppers have cooled, stir them into the rice. Add the cucumbers. Just before serving, stir in the sesames and nori. Peel and slice the avocadoes and serve them with the salad.

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Asparagus and Cannellini Bean Salad

I haven't been at all creative in the kitchen lately. In fact, I've barely been in the kitchen lately. The end of school year activities, along with overlapping sports seasons (soccer/baseball/softball/swimming) have left my head spinning with very little time to think, let alone to cook. And I find it very difficult to be creative without some time to sit and let my thoughts percolate.

It was just this past weekend, then, when I finally had a chance to go to the farmers' market and get inspired to get going again. I also had a chance to do more than crack the spine of Vegetables from an Italian Garden, which Gabe had given me for Mothers' Day. The book is beautiful with lots of creative recipes organized by season.

I flipped to Spring and found this lovely little recipe that I immediately tried. It was very quick and the result was excellent. Adding the cannellini beans made the salad more hearty, so that it could be eaten as a side salad or as a main course.Olivia suggested that we have ours with a fried egg on top which I thought was fabulous plan. It made for a perfect, quick Spring dinner.

Best of all, I feel much more balanced after having had some time in the kitchen.

Second helping: Lemony Potato Salad
Thirds: Linguine with Garlic Scape and Pea Pesto

Asparagus and Cannellini Bean Salad

Adapted from Vegetables from an Italian Garden

Serves 6 as a side dish
20 minutes preparation and cooking time

2 bunches of asparagus
2 15-ounce cans cannellini beans
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (from about 1/2 of a lemon)
3 tablespoons chopped parsley (a small handful before chopping)
1/4 teaspoon salt
 a few grinds of fresh pepper
fried eggs (optional)

Bring a small pot of water to boil. Snap off the woody ends of the asparagus, and rinse them. Salt the boiling water with a few dashes of salt and add the asparagus. Cook until the asparagus is tender and still a vibrant green, about 5 minutes. Drain the asparagus in a colander as soon as it has finished cooking.

While the asparagus is cooking, drain the cannellini beans and rinse them under cold water.

In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the olive oil, parsley, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Add the cannellini beans and stir. When the asparagus has finished cooking, toss it into the bowl and stir again. Serve warm or at room temperature. A fried egg on top is optional.

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Green Lasagna

Before we left for our spring break, the farmers' market was loaded with greens, but not much else. We decided to make this lasagna with it, which is loosely based on a lasagna that my sister and brother-in-law have made many times for us. I love the flavors because the greens and the basil give it a freshness that suits the season, even if it is a cheesy, comforting lasagna. It has become one of our family favorites.

Although we made the dish in spring, it really is perfect for fall and winter too, when those greens are abundant at the markets. I'm not going to say too much more. I'll let the pictures do the talking.

I'm looking forward to heading back to the farmers' market this weekend to see what's available now. Ramps? Asparagus? I can't wait.

Second Helping: Velvety Ramp and Watercress Soup with Crispy Shallots
Thirds: Kale Chips

Green Lasagna

1 pound lasagne noodles*
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
12 cups fresh spinach leaves, carefully washed
16 ounces ricotta
1 cup freshly grated parmesan
4 1/2 cups whole milk
9 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
olive oil for the pan
1 large bunch of basil
1 half pound mozzarella

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt the water, and cook the lasagne noodles for a minute less than the time called for on the package. When they are done, drain them in a colander and rinse them with cold water. Stir them gently with a wooden spoon as you rinse to keep them from sticking together.

Put the spinach in a large stock pot and add enough water to nearly cover it. Bring the pot to a boil. Cook until the spinach wilts but is still a bright green. Drain the spinach in a colander, mashing it with a wooden spoon against the side of the colander to remove any remaining water. Let it sit for a few minutes to cool and dry out while you make the bechamel sauce.

In a small stockpot, heat the milk over low heat. It should be warm but not boiling. (You could even heat it in the microwave in a glass measuring cup if you don't want to get another pot dirty.) In a larger sauce pan, melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter begins to foam, add the flour, reduce the heat to medium-low, and stir until the flour is fully incorporated. Add the milk and stir vigorously until the mixture is smooth. Add a few pinches of salt and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture has thickened and you feel a lot of resistance against the spoon as you stir. Stir in the nutmeg. Remove the pan from the heat, cover it, and set it aside.

In a large bowl, mix the cooled spinach with the ricotta and parmesan. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Spread a bit of oil over the bottom of a 9-by-13 inch lasagne pan and place a layer of noodles over the bottom. Add enough of the spinach mixture to cover the noodles thinly. Add a layer of basil leaves. Don't be tempted to skimp on the basil; it is the secret ingredient that sets this lasagne apart. Repeat with another layer of noodles-spinach-basil.

Ladle enough of the bechamel sauce over the second layer to cover it. Keep adding more layers of noodles-spinach-basil until you run out of spinach mixture. Pour the remaining bechamel over the top of the lasagne, letting it drip down the sides if you have enough. Add mozzarella to the top.

Bake until the lasagne is lightly browned on top and bubbling, about 45 minutes. Let it rest for about 5 minutes before cutting and serving.

 * Am I the only one that always has way too many lasagne noodles left over? You will not need the full pound, but I make them all anyway because I'm never sure how many I will need. If you  are feeling crafty, you can always cut the extras into strips, toss them with some olive oil and butter, and serve them to any pickier eaters who won't eat the lasagne because it has green stuff in it.

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Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata

 
I am feeling completely stuck in winter. The calendar says it is spring. Some days it even looks like spring, at least from the inside looking out. But other days, the forecasters are talking of more snow (!) and, once outside, I feel the chill of winter hanging on.

In my head, I'm ready to move on from the heartier dishes of winter, all those soups and stews, but on a cold night, they still provide comfort. This weather has me in food limbo!

We all need something that can bridge the seasons, and this frittata does the trick. Leeks are able to travel between the seasons nicely, offering a heartiness to the soups of winter, but also adding freshness to spring dishes. This frittata features those leeks front and center, throwing in some tangy goat cheese along with the eggs. Eggs, symbols of new life, always make me think of spring. And chickens begin to produce more bountifully now that the days are getting longer. 

We most often have this frittata for dinner, but it would also be excellent for brunch or lunch. And it's good hot or at room temperature. As the days warm up, I might even take it on a picnic.

A girl can dream, can't she?

Second Helping: Cacio e Pepe
Thirds: Creamy Turnip Slaw

Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata 

Serves 5
15 minutes preparation time
40 minutes cooking time

2 large leeks (about 3 cups sliced)
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons of olive oil, divided
8 eggs
1 cup parmesan
5 ounces goat cheese
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Slice the dark green tops off the leeks and discard them (or save them for stock), keeping only the white and light green parts. Slice the leeks lengthwise and then across into half moon slices. Rinse the slices in a colander, shaking the leeks with your hands to ensure that any soil rinses away.

Heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat in a large, ovenproof sauté pan. Add the leeks and sauté them for a few minutes until they soften. Stir the leeks and cover the pan, cooking until the leeks are quite soft, another 7 or so minutes.

While the leeks are cooking, scramble the eggs in a medium-sized bowl. Add the parmesan, goat cheese, salt, and pepper. When the leeks are done, transfer them to a small bowl. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat and swirl it around the pan so that it covers the sides as well as the bottom of the pan.

Add the leeks to the egg bowl and whisk them together immedediately. Add the egg mixture to the pan and lower the heat to medium. Cook on the stove top until the edges of the frittata have set. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook it until the center of the frittata is firm and it is golden brown.

Carefully remove the pan from the oven. Remember that the handle is hot! Run a rubber spatula around the sides of the pan. Place the pan next to the serving dish and carefully lift the frittata and slide it onto the plate. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Moroccan-Style Vegetable Couscous

 
Isn't it a great feeling to find money in the pocket of a jacket that you haven't worn in a while? For a blogger, finding an already-written post that has not yet been published is the equivalent. I was sure that I had already published this recipe because I remember testing it, photographing it, and writing it up. I wanted to make it again, but I couldn't find it in the archives. I was so frustrated, but then I checked on the hard drive of my computer and there it was! Yipee!

You may remember that last year, Gabe and I traveled with our kids on our first trans-Atlantic trip to Paris. Gabe ordered couscous for lunch one day and, much to my surprise, all of the kids loved it. I had tried to get the kids to eat couscous at home -- "it's like rice!" -- but they hadn't gone for it. So when they ate it in France, I wanted to come home and recreate the dish before they forgot that they liked it.

So here's my stab at it.  It's a Moroccan-style dish but, in Morocco, they would use a spice mixture called ras-el-hanout. Here, I make my own with spices that are easily available. The spices are intensly flavorful, which is excellent when spooned over the mild couscous.

 
 
Now I have to go off on a tangent and tell you a story about Morocco. It has nothing to do with this recipe, but it is the only recollection I have.

When I was a child, my family was living in Portugal and, on my seventh birthday, we took a boat trip to Morocco. I turned 7 on that boat trip and at dinner, my family sang "Happy Birthday" to me in the communal dining room. My favorite part of the trip was when my younger sister approached all of the passengers who weren't singing and shamed them into joining in.

When we arrived, we got off the boat at the port and made our way to our hotel. My least favorite part of the trip was when one of the merchants at the port market offered to trade me for a toy camel. I remember that my 7-year-old self was particularly indignant that they weren't even offering a real camel in trade. My parents thought it was funny, but I was afraid they would accept the offer. 

So here it is: Moroccan vegetable couscous, by way of Paris. Hold the camel, toy or otherwise.

Second Helping: Crepes (love the flip!)
Thirds?: Cuban Black Beans (these are still among our favorites)

 

Moroccan-Style Vegetable Couscous

Serves 6
25 minutes preparation time
25 minutes cooking time

For the spice mixture, use 6 teaspoons ras-el-hanout or make your own blend:
1/2 teaspoon saffron
1 teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1/2 teaspoon coriander
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

To finish the dish:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, chopped
2 carrots, sliced
1 potato, peeled and diced
1 28-ounce can whole San Marzano tomatoes with their juice, torn or chopped
1 zucchini, sliced
1 15-ounce can chick peas
1 cup couscous

If you are making your own spice mixture, mix the spices in a small bowl with a whisk. Heat a large skillet over medium heat and add the spices. Toast them just until they are fragrant, probably less than a minute. Pour the spices back into the bowl and set them aside.

Add the oil to the skillet turn the heat up to medium high. Add the onion and sauté until it softens, about 7 minutes. 

Add the garlic, carrots, and potato and sauté for a couple more minutes.  Stir in the tomatoes with their juices and the spice mixture. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until the potatoes and carrots soften, about 20 minutes. Add the zucchini and chick peas and heat until the zucchini has cooked and the beans have heated through, about 5 minutes.

When the vegetables have finished cooking, taste them and add more salt and pepper if you like. Heap the couscous in the middle of a large shallow bowl. Spoon the vegetable mixture over the top. The dish can be eaten either warm or at room temperature.

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Warm Garlicky Lentil and Potato Salad

Several cultures have a tradition of eating legumes on or around New Years' Day. In the South, it's tradition to eat black-eyed peas for good luck. In Italy and Brazil, lentils are thought to bring luck. One theory is that the round legumes are symbolic of money and eating them will bring you good financial fortune for the new year. In these economic times, it may be worth a try.

But kicking off the new year with legumes is also a way to break with the indulgences of the last couple of months. After all those sumptious meals and decadent desserts, I always find myself wanting to scale back a bit in January. Many of us will make resolutions to eat healthier, exercise more, maybe even lose a few pounds. We may want to tighten the belt financially even as we are loosening the belt to account for our holiday splurges.

Lentils offer it all. They are healthy and inexpensive. Maybe they do bring luck after all since they offer health at a discount. Much cheaper than a gym membership.

When a friend told me that she had made a warm lentil and potato salad recipe that she found in the Washington Post's archives, it sounded like it would be perfect for the new year. This recipe laces the warm lentils and potatoes with a vinaigrette made with roasted garlic. The result is a simple, delicious salad with an earthy sweetness from the garlic that is hard to beat. The chopped parsley adds a counterpoint of freshness that makes this dish seem more of a treat than a resolution.

The children in this house love lentils, and we make our lentil-feta salad all year, but we love it best as a picnic food in the summer. I think this recipe will stand in nicely in the colder months. If it brings us luck of any sort throughout the year so much the better.

Second Helping: Cuban Harina with Broccoli Rabe and Crispy Fried Eggs
Thirds?: Black Bean and Monterey Jack Casserole

 

Warm, Garlicky Lentil and Potato Salad

Adapted from The Washington Post

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time
20 minutes cooking time

1 head of garlic
1/2 cup olive oil, plus a drizzle more
2 1/2 cups small French lentils
2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste, divided
4 medium potatoes, peeled, and cubed (about 4 cups)
4 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, or more to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Peel the outer layers off of a head of garlic, but leave the skin on the individual cloves of garlic and leave them attached in the head. Cut off the top of garlic head so that you can see the tops of the individual cloves. Place the head of garlic on a piece of foil and drizzle it with olive oil. Wrap the foil around it and bake it until it is tender and fragrant and the cloves are soft and brown, about 30 minutes.

While the garlic is roasting, in a small saucepan, cover the lentils water and bring them to a boil over medium-high heat. When the pot begins to boil, lower the heat, add half a teaspoon of salt, and let the lentils simmer until they are tender, about 15 minutes.

In a separate saucepan, cover the potatoes with water and bring them to a boil over medium-high heat. When the pot begins to boil, lower the heat, add half a teaspoon of salt, and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

When the garlic is finished, remove it from the oven and let it cool enough so that you can handle it. Peel back the foil and remove the individual garlic cloves from the skin with a knife or fork. Mince them finely.

Wisk the garlic, red wine vinegar, thyme, remaining teaspoon of salt, and pepper together in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle in the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil, wisking continuously, so that the dressing emulsifies.

When the lentils and potatoes have finished cooking, drain them and pour them into a large serving bowl. Add the dressing and toss everything together gently. Add the parsley and mix again. Serve warm.

Jobs for Children: Children can drizzle the olive oil over the garlic, wisk the ingredients for the dressing and scrub the potatoes. Older children can peel the potatoes, too, and chop them or the parsley.

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Airy Apple Cake

Sometimes a homey, tasty cake is just what you need. In fact, cake almost always has the power to improve ones outlook on life. In any event, the only thing it can hurt is the waistline, and I'm not going to start worrying about that after all these years.

This cake offers just that type of comfort. The apples are first spooned into the baking pan and topped with a batter that covers the apples and surrounds them with light fluffy cake. The result is an airy spiced cake with a sprinkle of crunchy sweetness on the top. Dressed up on fancy plate with a scoop of ice cream it makes an excellent seasonal dessert. Wrapped in a napkin, it would make a perfect snack on the run. Some have even been known to have a slice for breakfast.

Dicing apples.
The first time I made this cake, Chloe looked at me with wonder. She had just been singing "An Apple for an Apple Cake" with the Revels. I believe the song was based on a story by Nienke Van Hichtum in which an old woman plans to make an apple cake but doesn't have any apples. She sets out to find some and shares her generosity along the way. It is a lovely story, and Chloe was delighted that I was actually making an apple cake at home. Sometimes things just work out that way. Especially when cake is involved.

Second Helping: Pear and Almond Cake

Dig in!

Airy Apple Cake

To prepare the apples:
3-4 firm apples, ideally a mix of varieties, peeled, cored, and cut into bite-sized pieces
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

To make the cake:
1 cup unbleached white flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, divided
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 teaspoons orange zest
1/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2-quart baking dish.

Pour the apples into the baking dish and mix them with the butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Set aside while you mix the cake.

In a small bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a mixer, beat the butter and 3/4 cup of the sugar until light. Add the egg, vanilla, and orange zest and mix again. Add half of the flour mixture, the milk, and then the remaining half of the flour mixture, mixing each time until just combined. Pour the batter over the apples and spread it so that it covers them evenly.

Mix the remaining sugar and cinnamon together in a small bowl. Sprinkle it over the top.  Bake  the cake for 35-40 minutes, until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm or cooled directly from the baking dish.

Jobs for children: Children can peel the apples, zest the orange, and mix. At the end, children can also sprinkle the cinnamon sugar on top. To make it come out more evenly, put the cinnamon-sugar mixture in a clean spice bottle so that not too much comes out with any one shake. Older children can also dice apples.

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Vietnamese Cucumber Salad

We had an exhausting weekend, running here there, and everywhere. I charted it all out because I was afraid that I would forget to show up somewhere, or bring the necessary gift/equipment/snacks, or worst of all, forget to pick up one of the children and leave someone stranded somewhere. At one point, I tallied that we had 14 places to go and things to do over the course of the 2 days. But it was good stuff, sports, friends, music, family. And nobody got left behind.

At some point, I did squeeze in time to make this incredibly simple salad. The recipe comes originally from my sister Sarah and her husband, Ed. They traveled to Vietnam several years ago and after eating this salad several times, they watched the chef make it so they could figure out how to reproduce it at home.


I've changed it up a bit because. . . well, because that's what I do. I love the way the cool cucumbers play off the heat of the hot peppers. In this version, I use a jalapeno pepper because that's what I found this week, and I was making it for children, but if your palate can take it, substitute a hotter pepper. Just for the record, it's also quite portable. In case you're eating on the go.

Vietnamese Cucumber Salad

Serves 6
20 minutes preparation time, plus 30-60 minutes to marinate

2 teaspoons minced ginger
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 jalapeno pepper (or a hotter pepper if you like), seeded and thinly sliced
1/8 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup natural rice vinegar (not seasoned)
2 long English cucumbers (about 6 cups sliced)
1 cup thinly sliced red onion 

Mix all of the ingredients except the cucumbers and onion in a large bowl and whisk until the salt and sugar have dissolved.

If the cucumbers have tough skin, peel them. Cut them in half length-wise and remove the seeds. Slice them across diagonally. Add the cucumbers and red onion to the bowl and mix thoroughly. Add enough water to the bowl to submerge the cucumbers completely and place the bowl in the refrigerator to sit for 30 minutes to 1 hour.

Before serving, drain off the liquid, which you can reserve for future salads. Serve cold or at room temperature.

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Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata

 
Our children are loving the Diary of A Wimpy Kid books these days, and, truth be told, I find them hilarious myself.  They are part comic, part novel and they are written from the perspective of Greg as he begins his life in middle school.  I'm not sure I can quite convey what I find so funny about them.  I think it's Greg's voice.  He thinks he has it all figured out, but his overconfidence gets him into trouble time after time.

Anyway, if you have read them, you know about the cheese touch.  If you haven't read them, the cheese touch is a piece of American cheese that somehow gets left on the playground to mold and turn bizarre colors.  Any child who touches it is immediately ostracized by the rest of the middle school until he passes the touch on. 

When I put something on the table that my children don't like, it's a lot like the cheese touch.  One of Oscar's least favorite foods is asparagus.  When I put it on the table, he gags and makes awful faces.  If I put some on his plate, he moves all the remaining food away from it so that it doesn't get contaminated. 

The rest of us love it, though.  For me, asparagus is one of those foods that I can't pass at the farmers' market and not buy.  Their flavor is fresh and green, the quintessential taste of spring.

When I made this frittata for dinner recently, Oscar pulled his usual tricks, isolating it on the plate.  Eventually, though I convinced him to eat some of the egg that was in the frittata even though it had touched a piece of asparagus.  A small victory, certainly, but I'll take it.

Second helping: Asparagus with Shallot-Champagne Vinaigrette

 

Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata

8 eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
a few grinds of pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bunch asparagus (about 10 large)
1 large scallion (about 1/2 cup), chopped
1/2 cup goat cheese, crumbled

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

In a medium bowl, mix together the eggs, parsley, salt, and pepper.  Slice the asparagus diagonally into one-inch segments, reserving a 2-inch tip of about 10 of the asparagus. 

Heat a 10-inch oven-proof skillet over medium heat for a minute or two until it is good and hot.  Add the oil and swirl it around the pan to make sure that it coats the sides.  Add the asparagus segments (holding out the tips) and spring onions and saute until slightly softened, about 2 minutes.  Add the egg mixture and cook until the edges set, about 5 minutes.  The center will still be runny. 

Arrange the remaining asparagus tips around the frittata and crumble the goat cheese on top.  Move the pan to the oven and cook until the frittata has firmly set and is golden brown, about 10 minutes.  Let the for a couple of minutes out of the oven.  Then, with an oven mitt over the end of the handle (I can't tell you how many times I have forgotten this and burned myself), run a rubber spatula around the edge of the frittata.  Lift the pan over a serving plate and use the spatula to slide the frittata onto the plate.  Serve warm or at room temperature.  

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Arugula Pesto Quinoa

This time of year, we begin spending more and more time outside at dinner.  With the kids at various practices for softball, baseball and, soon, swimming, we seem to be always in search of a portable meal.  We are still trying to have a meal together each day and so often this means that we bring our dinner to the baseball field and eat on the sidelines after practice. 

On a side note, it seems so cumbersome to always say "baseball and softball."  "Grab your baseball and softball gloves."  "Let's practice throwing the baseball and softball."  Yes, we really are that lazy that we feel the need to come up with a hybrid name:  baftball?  saseball?  safeball? 

But I digress.  This dish fits the bill as one of those portable, room temperature, everything-in-one-bowl kind of meals that is perfect for a picnic.  And it is tasty too.  If you think quinoa is one of those wacky grains that only hippies eat I encourage you to give it a try.  Quinoa is an excellent source of protein, very easy to cook, and has a delicious nutty chewiness.  The arugula adds a peppery flavor that tastes of spring.  I added the green beans to boost the veggie content in the dish, and the radishes add texture as well as a burst of color.  But you can substitute any other vegetables that suit you.  Think of the pesto-quinoa mixture as a base on which to build.  (Did I really just write "base"?  First base?  Third base?  Sometimes I do not know where those puns come from.)

Second Helping: Asparagus with Shallot-Champagne Vinaigrette

Banana Coconut Pecan Bread

We have made a lot of banana chocolate chip snack cakes (my first recipe on this blog!).  It doesn't often happen that all three children want the same food for breakfast or for a snack, but banana baked goods seem to do the trick.  I wanted to change it up a bit, though, so I have been working on this banana bread.

I know that banana bread may not be the most exciting recipe to share, but I have been tweaking this recipe for months and I am really happy with the way it has come out.  It is very banana-y and moist, and the coconut adds a bit of extra sweetness. 

Of course, not everybody in our family likes nuts, so I had to come up with a trick for making half the loaf with nuts and half without.  I left the batter without nuts then put a spatula in the middle of the pan and poured in about half of the batter.  Leave the spatula there and stir nuts into the remaining half of the batter.  Pour that into the other side of the pan and remove the spatula.  Place a nut on the top of the nut side so that you can track which side is which. 

If you happen to have access to a snaggletoothed two year old nephew with deliciously pudgy fingers and a smile that melts your heart, definitely enlist him to help.

Second Helping:  Blueberry Crumb Cake

 

Banana Coconut Pecan Bread

Makes 1 standard loaf
20 minutes preparation time
50-55 minutes baking time

approximately 2 cups mashed bananas (3-4)
6 tablespoons melted butter
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups white whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 cup coconut
1/2 cup pecans, broken a bit (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Butter and flour a standard loaf pan.

In a large bowl, mix together the mashed bananas, butter, sugars, and eggs.  In a separate bowl, mix the flour, salt, baking soda, and coconut.  Mix until just combined.  Add the nuts and mix briefly.  Pour the batter into the loaf pan. 

Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of the bread comes out clean, about 50-55 minutes. Standard-sized muffins take about 25 minutes to bake.  Let the cake cool in the pan for about half an hour then flip it out onto a cooling rack to continue to cool or serve it warm.

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Smokin' Chili

 
Oscar is eagerly awaiting the Superbowl.  Oh, sure, we may watch some of the game on TV, and some of us will enjoy the commercials as much as the game.  Chances are I'll be doing something else at the same time if we do watch it.  You know, something exciting like folding laundry or writing up a recipe. 

But the real excitement will come in the week leading up to the big game.  What Oscar is really looking forward to is the Superbowl display at Whole Foods.  As best Oscar could remember, the set up is a miniature football field with corks for players and beer bottles for referees. The whole display is walled in by large quantities of tortilla chips and soda.  I wish I could remember it better myself, but I'm sure that I tried to move on as soon as I saw those large quantities of chips.

 
If we do watch the game, we'll take a traditional culinary route and whip up a pot of chili.  Maybe we'll have some chips and tomatillo salsa, too.  But this chili recipe will definitely be on the table.  The smoked paprika and chipotle in adobo sauce give the chili a fantastic smoky flavor and the cilantro adds a touch of freshness.  The chipotle also gives the chili a moderate amount of heat.  You can add more if you want more kick, or leave it out altogether if you are making this for children who  can't tolerate the spicyness.  For a crowd, I make a double batch, one with the chipotle and one without.  Leftovers freeze well. 

With or without the game, this chili is warming on a cold January night.  We may even recreate our own Superbowl display at home.  Maybe we'll use blocks instead of the chips and soda, but I think we'll keep the beer bottle referee.

Smokin' Chili

Serves 8
20 minutes preparation time, plus time for soaking the beans
1 hour and 30 minutes cooking time

1 pound dried kidney beans, or a combination of kidney, navy, and pinto beans, soaked overnight
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon smoked paprika or pimenton
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium yellow or red pepper, diced
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes (preferably San Marzano), with their juice, chopped
1 tablespoon chipotle in adobo sauce, finely minced (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
toppings such as grated cheese, minced onion, or sour cream for servings

Whisk together the cumin, smoked paprika, oregano, and cloves.  Heat them in a large stockpot over medium heat until they are fragrant, just a minute or two.  Remove them from the pot. 

Add the olive oil to the pan and warm it.  Add the onion, pepper, and garlic and cook until they soften, 7 or 8 minutes.  Add the beans, tomatoes with their liquid, the spice mixture, and salt and pepper.  Add the chipotle if you are using it, but if you would like to separate the chili into two batches, one mild and one spicy, divide it into two pots at this point.  Then add the chipotle to one pot (you may want to use half the amount). 

If the tomato liquid is not sufficient to cover the beans, add a bit of water until the beans are just submerged. 

Cook the chili uncovered until the beans have softened, about an hour and a half.  Check the liquid and add more water if it is necessary to keep the beans covered.  When the beans are soft, add the cilantro and serve with the toppings of your choice.

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Roasted Beet, Cucumber, and Feta Salad

There are lots of ways to divide the world.  You know, those who love cats and those who don't; those who wear turtlenecks all winter and those who won't.  But lately, I've been thinking about those who love beets and those who hate them.  There doesn't seem to be anyone in between. 

I happen to be one of the ones who loves them.  They are a gorgeous color, easy to cook, and have a wonderful, sweet, earthy taste.  What's not to love?  Beets and goat cheese are an excellent combination.  This salad combines those sweet beets with tangy feta, crunchy cucumbers, and a dill vinaigrette.  It is the perfect fall salad. 

I had high hopes that the children would enjoy this dish.  Last fall, they were willing to try beets after they harvested their own.  We were at a pick-your-own farm and the kids went wild pulling the beets out of the ground.  I had to stop them after they had pulled about 30 beets because, even for a beet lover like me, that is a lot of beets. 

But my hopes were a bit too high.  Olivia was willing to try the salad and loved it.  We convinced Oscar to eat some of the cucumber that had touched a beet, but the beet itself went uneaten.  And Chloe just stared that salad down without even a nibble.  But Gabe and I thought it was delicious, so I thought it was worth sharing, just in case there are some beet lovers in your house.

Roasted Beet, Feta, and Cucumber Salad

Serves 6 as a side salad
10 minutes preparation time
20-45 minutes baking time

6 medium beets, preferably an assortment of colors, scrubbed
1 1/2 seedless cucumbers, washed
1/2 pound feta

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.  Wrap beets in foil and roast them on a cookie sheet until they are tender when pierced with a fork.  The cooking time will vary according to the size of the beets, but will likely take between 20 and 45 minutes. 

While the beets are cooking, make the dressing.  Whisk together the vinegar, salt, and pepper.  Slowly drizzle in the olive oil, whisking continuously, so that it emulsifies.  Add the dill, and whisk again.

When the beets are finished cooking, remove them from the oven and let them cool.  When they are cool enough to handle, remove the foil and slip off their skins.  Slice the beets across into rounds (latitudinally) and then cut the rounds into quarters (the result will be pie-shaped pieces).  Slice the cucumber the same way, first into rounds and then into quarters. 

In a medium-sized bowl, toss the cucumbers with half of the dressing.  Add the beets and toss briefly.  Break the feta into chunks and stir them gently into the cucumbers and beets.  Taste.  Add more dressing and adjust the seasoning to your liking.

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Back to School and Moro Bean, Tomato, and Basil Salad

Chloe, our youngest, started kindergarten today and, although I knew it was coming, I'm still reeling.  She had been nervous, but by yesterday her siblings' enthusiasm had rubbed off on her and she said she couldn't wait to start kindergarten.  By the time we actually arrived today, it was a different story.  The practice at our elementary school is to have the kindergarten children gather in front of the school.  Of course, all of us parents were there too, taking pictures and soaking up this last time with our kindergartners before they take this big step.  In the middle of all this commotion, Chloe was clinging to Gabe and me.  Our efforts to encourage her and get her to notice her classmates were unsuccessful. 

When it was time for her class to go into the school, she protested.  But then she took a deep breath, turned and walked with the class.  She glanced back, though, and that was enough to unleash the tears.  She didn't run back to us, but stood where she was, no longer able to move into the building.  I didn't know what to do.  How many times as a parent will I face this dilemma?  Do I do what I really want to do, scoop her up, hug her, and bring her home?  Or do I encourage her to take that step that seems so difficult and move away from us and onto the next experience?

I walked over, took her hand, and told her I would take her to her teacher.  We caught up, and I traded my child's hand for the school supplies that the teacher was carrying.  I got the short end of that stick.  Then I waited as the children all went into the classroom.  When I thought the coast was clear, I brought the supplies up and put them into the back of the classroom.  I had forgotten that the children would still be at their cubbies, putting away their shiny new backpacks.  There was Chloe, looking so forlorn.  I knew I should turn away before she saw me, but I couldn't without one more look.  She saw me there, and for a second, her eyes lit up as if to say, "You realized your mistake, now come and get me!"  I forced a smile, blew her a kiss and ducked out of the door. 

And then I cried my way home.  I heard Alice Walker say once that the process of mothering is a continual distancing of our children from us.  I thought of this as I walked through the school today, seeing the faces of all of those kindergartners with their wide, expectant eyes, and a child, new to the school this year, holding back tears among a sea of unknown faces.  These children have courage.  They must know that they need to do this, to move away and move on.  I just hope that I have the courage to support, guide, and love them, so that they can grow into the happy, independent adults that I want them to be.

Of course, I can't let the day go by without a recipe.  Here is the bean salad that we made--at Chloe's request--for the kindergarten picnic.  The beans are from my Rancho Gordo stash, but black beans could be substituted.  This recipe pairs those fantastic summer tomatoes with a classic complement of basil.

Moro Bean, Tomato and Basil Salad 

Serves 6 as a main course
20 minutes preparation time
1 1/2 to 2 hours cooking time, plus time for cooling

1 pound dried Moro beans (black beans are a reasonable substitute)
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig sage
2 teaspoons salt, divided
2 cloves garlic, minced
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
zest and juice of 1 lemon
a few grinds of pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
3 large tomatoes
10-15 basil leaves, torn

Rinse the beans, put them in a pot with the thyme, sage, and 1 teaspoon of salt, and cover them generously with water.  Bring them to a boil and simmer until they are tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours. 

Meanwhile, make the dressing.  In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, vinegar, lemon zest and juice, remaining teaspoon of salt, and pepper.  Slowly whisk in the olive oil so that it emulsifies.  Set aside.

Dice the tomatoes and, if they are very watery, pour them into a colander set over a large bowl and let them drain while the beans cook.  Reserve the liquid for another purpose such as soup stock.

When the beans are tender, drain them, pour them into a large bowl, and toss them with the vinaigrette.  Let them cool to room temperature.  Add the tomatoes and basil and toss gently.  Serve at room temperature.

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Corn, Tomato, and Quinoa Salad with Cilantro Vinaigrette

 
Aren't neighbors wonderful?  We had our neighbors over for dinner the other night, and we grilled some corn to go along with our tacos.  I had gotten the corn at the farmers' market, and as I husked it with the children, we found several caterpillars inside the husks.  I actually find this reassuring because it means that the corn has not been sprayed within an inch of its life with noxious chemicals.  I cut them all out, but the children were still a bit put off.  I explanied why I didn't mind them, but I'm not sure they got it.  At the end of my explanation, I asked them which they would prefer, a few caterpillars or chemical sprays.  They all chanted, "chemicals!"  Apparently I have a bit more persuading to do.

In the course of this conversation, I told the children not to mention the caterpillars to our dinner guests because it might make them afraid to eat the corn.  As soon as the words were out of my mouth, I realized my mistake.  Not only was I advocating deception, but my mere suggestion that we not say anything meant that the children were guaranteed to say something.  I saw a glint in Oscar's eye, but he is usually shy in a crowd, so I thought I was safe.

No such luck.  After toiling over a hot grill to get the dozen or so ears of corn cooked, I brought a huge platter heaped with corn to the table.  When offered corn, Oscar passed and then said, "we found lots of worms in that corn." 

There were lots of leftovers.

We also had lots of tomatoes.  Not only are the tomatoes coming in at our farm garden, but other neighbors left for a two-week vacation and asked us if we would pick their tomatoes so that they would not go to waste.  Anything for a neighbor.   

 

Corn, Tomato, and Quinoa Salad with Cilantro Vinaigrette

You could substitute any other grain for the quinoa, but quinoa is loaded with protein and its chewy texture is a nice complement to the softness of the tomatoes and the crunch of the corn and onion.  Quinoa is also gluten free for those who must avoid wheat.  We served this salad as a side dish, but it could easily be doubled to become a main course.  Because it can be served at room temperature, it makes a great pot luck or picnic dish.

Serves 6 as a side dish
20 minutes cooking and preparation time, plus additional time for cooling

4 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon olive oil
1 cup quinoa
1 teaspoon salt
a few grinds of pepper
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/4 cup diced red onion
corn cut from 2 ears of cooked corn (about 1 cup)
2 medium tomatoes, cored and diced

Heat a teaspoon or so of olive oil in a skillet.  Add the quinoa and cook it until it is fragrant, 1-2 minutes.  Add 1 1/2 cups of water, and bring to a boil.  Turn off the heat, cover, and let the quinoa sit for about 12 minutes, until it is soft and the round grains have opened up.

Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette.  Whisk together the salt, pepper, cilantro, and white wine vinegar.  Slowly add the remaining olive oil, whisking continuously.  When the quinoa is cooked, toss it with the dressing in a large bowl.  Let it cool for a few minutes, and add the onion, corn, and tomato.  Serve the salad warm or let it cool to warm temperature.

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Peach, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad

As I have mentioned before, one of our favorite summer meals is tomato and mozzarella salad.  Of course we wait until really good tomatoes are available at the farmers' market (or in our garden!)  and use the best mozzarella we can find.  When we had the salad for the first time this season, Olivia said, "Oh, I've waited so long for this!"  Yes, you have, sweetie.  Waiting for those tomatoes to come in can seem to take forever, especially in the long years of a child.

But now tomatoes are here with a vengeance.  My goal is to eat so many of them that by the time the summer ends, I am happy to see them go.  It has never worked before, but maybe this will be the year. 

This recipe is a variation on that standard tomato-mozzarella salad.  With perfectly ripe peaches thrown in, it is quintessentially summery.  The peaches add sweetmess, and the balsamic vinegar adds a mellow, sweet, tangy flavor.  The balance of the flavors works extremely well together.

I have to confess that Olivia was the only child who loved this salad as much as Gabe and I did.  Oscar was not wild about the one bite that I cajoled him into trying, and Chloe wouldn't even have a taste.  But I loved the combination of flavors so much that I wanted to pass it on.  And maybe in some households, the appeal of peaches for dinner will be enough to entice the children?

Peach, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad

Serves 6 as a salad
15 minutes preparation time

2-3 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, sliced into rounds
2-3 medium-sized ripe peaches, sliced into rounds
1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced into rounds
a few sprinkles of salt
5-6 basil leaves, torn or cut into thin strips
balsamic vinegar

Layer alternating slices of tomato, peach, and mozzarella on a large platter or plate.  Sprinkle with salt and basil, and drizzle with balsamic vinegar.   

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Smoky Deviled Eggs

Gabe and Olivia are both big deviled egg fans.  I used to be indifferent, but after tasting some really good versions, I'm a convert.

I had been thinking about making a smoky version of deviled eggs, and when our neighbors threw a big party with smoked pork in the starring role, I thought these eggs would be the perfect vegetarian alternative to bring to the party.  

My friend Laura had turned me on to pimenton, which I thought would successfuly turn my eggs into some smoky devils.  Pimenton is also known as smoked paprika, and if you haven't had it, you should definitely give it a try.  It lives up to its name, lending a deep smokiness to whatever dish you put it in.  The peppers used to make it are not hot, however, so it adds a lot of flavor without any heat, which is perfect for children.  We have had it several times on popcorn, and I agree with Olivia's assessment that it makes the popcorn taste like barbecue chips.

The chipotle peppers in adobo sauce also have a smoky flavor, but they can add a bit of heat.  I didn't use too much of them in this recipe because I didn't want the eggs to be too spicy for mass appeal, but if you are cooking for a crowd that can tolerate it, you could add more chipotle.  I found both the pimenton and the chipotles in adobo at Whole Foods, the pimenton with the spices and the chipotles in adobo near the taco ingredients.

You can either scoop the filling into the egg whites or pipe it in.  For some reason my cake decorator did not work for this.  Maybe the filling was too thick.  But we just filled a baggie, trimmed a corner, and used the bag to do the piping.  Olivia went to town and I loved the architectural shapes that she created.

These eggs would be perfect for any picnic this summer, so take them along to the pool, a neighborhood barbeque, or just enjoy them at lunch on the porch.

Smoky Deviled Eggs

Makes 24 deviled eggs
15 minutes preparation time
15 minutes cooking time

1 dozen eggs
1/2 teaspoon chipotle in adobo sauce, minced
1 1/2 teaspoons smoked paprika, plus more for sprinkling
2 teaspoons cider vinegar
6 tablespoons mayonnaise
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt
a few grinds fresh pepper

Cover the eggs with water in a saucepan large enough to hold the eggs in a single layer.  Bring the water to a boil, let it boil for about a minute, and turn off the heat.  Let the eggs sit for 15 minutes and remove them from the heat.  Immediately drain the hot water and run cold water over the eggs until they are completely cooled. 

Peel the eggs and slice them in half lengthwise.  Remove the egg yolks and mash them in a bowl with the remaining ingredients.  Add more chipotle if you would like more heat.  Pipe or spoon the egg yolk mixture back into the egg whites.  Sprinkle a bit of paprika over the top of the eggs and serve.

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Lentil and Feta Salad

Sometimes a combination of simple tastes adds up to more than you would expect.  This salad is one of those dishes.  It has very few ingredients, but somehow the flavors work extremely well together.  The chewy earthiness of the lentils makes a delicious background for the salty feta, and the Italian parsley adds a touch of brightness.  Because there are so few ingredients, it is key to use the highest quality ingredients you can find.  It is best with the small, black French lentils, a French feta if you can find it, and very fresh parsley.

This salad transports well and is delicious at room temperature.  It is perfect for a pot luck or dinner by the pool.  It would also make an excellent addition to any Fourth of July picnic.

I got the idea for this salad from the Bread Line, a restaurant in downtown D.C. that was right around the corner from my old office.  They have fantastic sandwiches and baked goods, but it is this lentil salad that brought me back day after day.  They serve it over a bed of undressed greens with a crusty roll, and that is still my favorite way to eat it.  One day I asked one of the guys who was scooping the salad what was in it, and he leaned over and whispered, "the secret is the cider vinegar in the dressing."  He may be right because this version comes very close to the original. 

Although I am determined not to become a short order cook at home and steadfastly refuse to make each child their own dish, it is very easy to leave the feta out of this salad for Chloe.  She loves the lentils, but not if she can detect a speck of feta among them.  Olivia, on the other hand, loves the feta, as do Gabe and I.  Oscar used to be firmly in Chloe's camp, but the last couple of times we made the salad, he enjoyed the feta version.  Who knows, maybe one day Chloe will come around, too, and we'll all share the same bowl.

Feta and Lentil Salad 

If you would like to prepare this salad in advance, cook the lentils ahead and toss them with the dressing.  They will keep well for several days in the refrigerator.  Just before you are ready to serve the salad, chop the parsley and add it with the feta.

Serves 4 to 6
25 minutes preparation time, plus 30 or so minutes cooling time

2 cups small French lentils
2 1/2 teaspoons sea salt, divided
1/2 shallot, minced (about 3 tablespoons)
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup (or more) fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
1/2 pound feta
salad greens for serving (optional)

In a medium saucepan, generously cover the lentils with water.  Bring them to a boil, add about a teaspoon of the salt, and let them simmer until they are tender to the bite but still hold their shape, 15 to 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the dressing.  Whisk together the shallots, remaining salt, pepper, and cider vinegar.  Whisking continuously, slowly add the olive oil.  Adding the oil slowly will ensure that it emulsifies, that is, fully integrates into the vinegar.

When the lentils are cooked, drain the water and pour the lentils into a large bowl.  Immediately add the dressing (you may not need all of it), and stir.  Put the lentils aside to cool for at least half an hour.  If you are making the lentils ahead, cover them at this point and store them in the refrigerator for up to a few days.  When the lentils are cool, crumble the feta into the salad, leaving it in fairly large chunks.  Add the parsely and mix.  Serve over salad greens, if you like.

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Roasted Asparagus and New Potatoes with Tarragon

For some reason, tarragon is an excellent complement to many spring dishes.  Of course, I love it in egg salad, but it is also perfect with those tender spring vegetables like asparagus and peas.  For this dish, I paired it with asparagus and new potatoes that I oven roasted.  With a bit of crunch from the onions, the combination was wonderfully fresh and delicious. 

We ate this dish at room temperature as a main course, but it would also make an excellent side dish and it could be served warm or chilled.  Because it is so portable, it makes a great picnic or pool side dish.  That seems to be what I am craving more and more on these (finally!) warm spring evenings.

I have to admit that Oscar and Chloe had a bit of Jack Sprat and his wife going on: Oscar picked out the asparagus and ate the potatoes;  Chloe picked out the potatoes and ate the asparagus.  But they both enjoyed the tarragon flavor, and Gabe, Olivia, and I loved the entire combination. 

Roasted Asparagus and New Potatoes with Tarragon

The proportions in this salad are not set in stone, so you needn't follow measurements exactly.  You really can't go wrong.

Serves 5
10 minutes preparation time
25 minutes cooking time

1 1/2 pounds asparagus, trimmed
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
salt and pepper to taste
approximately 25 small new potatoes, scrubbed
2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon
1/2 vidalia or other sweet onion, sliced thinly
1/4 cup white vinegar

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.  Snap the ends off the asparagus and reserve them for another purpose.  Toss the asparagus with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, a few grinds of pepper, and a sprinkle of salt.  Roast the asparagus until they are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.  In a separate pan (or in the same pan if you have time and want to save dirtying another pan), toss the potatoes with 1 tablespoon of olive oil, salt and pepper.  Roast them, too, until they are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. 

While the vegetables are cooking, slice the onion and mince the tarragon.  When the potatoes are done,  let them cool enough to handle.  Cut them in half or in smaller pieces if they are large and toss them in a large bowl with the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil and the white vinegar.  Add the asparagus and tarragon.  Taste, and adjust seasonings as necessary.

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Minted Bulgur with Tomato and Roasted Chick Peas

I have been wanting to include more grains in our meals so when I heard a discussion about bulgur on NPR's Splendid Table, I was intrigued.  Janet Fletcher, who writes for the San Francisco Chronicle, traveled to Turkey and delved into the history of bulgur.  Her article, Ancient Grain for Modern Times, is full of interesting facts (the average person in Turkey eats a half pound of bulgur each week!) and includes several recipes. 

I found her technique for cooking bulgur particularly interesting.  Normally, I would just add hot water, stir, and let it sit.  But she toasts the bulgur first, adds the hot water, then covers it with a pot lid wrapped in a towel.  The towel absorbs the steam so that the bulgur does not come out gummy.  I tried this approach and liked the results.

Bulgur is, of course, best known as the base of tabouli, a salad made with parsley, tomato and cucumber, but I wanted to try something a bit different.  This combination of cumin, tomato, and mint is refreshing.  When roasted, the chick peas develop a toothy texture.  Their skins become crisp, and the insides develop a chewiness that I really like.  Roasted this way, they are even good on their own as a snack.

If you want to prepare the dish in advance, make the bulgur and the chick peas and store them separately.  Since the tomato would lose its flavor in the refrigerator and the mint bruises, chop and mix them in just before serving.  If you skip roasting the chick peas, you can chop the tomato and mint while the bulgur soaks and have dinner ready in minutes.

This dish can be served either hot, cold, or at room temperature.  I made it for a Memorial Day picnic, and it was very popular at the buffet table.  It will definitely be a regular poolside meal for us this summer.

Oscar in particular has been loving his bulgur.  When we had it for dinner the other night he said, "Mommy, do you know how much bulgur I'm going to make when I grow up?  I'm going to quintuple the recipe!"  And then he polished off four bowls of it.

Minted Bulgur with Tomatoes and Roasted Chick Peas

Serves 6
45 minutes preparation and cooking time, plus cooling time if desired

2 15-counce cans chick peas, rinsed and drained
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cumin, divided
salt to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus a splash for the chick peas
2 cups bulgur
1 cup coarsley chopped mint
4 tomatoes, chopped

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.  In a casserole dish,  toss the chick peas with 1 teaspoon of cumin, a few shakes of salt, and a splash of olive oil.  Bake the chick peas for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are crisp on the outside, but still tender on the inside. 

Heat 2 cups of water in a kettle or saucepan.  In a large skillet, heat the olive oil and add the tablespoon of cumin. Stir for a few seconds until the cumin is fragrant.  Add the bulgur and a teaspoon or so of salt, and stir it for a few seconds until it is uniformly coated with the cumin and olive oil.  Remove the pan from the heat, add the hot water, stir, and cover with a pot lid wrapped in a kitchen towel.  After 10 minutes, remove the lid, fluff the bulgur with a fork, and set it aside.

Meanwhile, chop the tomato and mint.  Just before you are ready to serve, mix the tomato and mint with the bulgur.  Mix in about half of the chick peas and sprinkle the rest over the top.

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Asparagus with Shallot Champagne Vinaigrette

I love this time of the year at the farmer's market.  Every time I go, there is something new making its appearance for the season.  When I first saw asparagus there a couple of weeks ago, I nearly did a little dance.  Local, fresh asparagus are so delicious.  There are so many different things that you can do with them, and I hope to offer a few more recipes before the season ends, but the first time I have them for the season, I really want to savor the pure taste of asparagus.  One of my favorite ways to do this is to quickly blanch them and serve them at room temperature with a vinaigrette.  This dish is perfect for a dinner party because you can do it in advance and asparagus are always a treat.

We bought both green and purple tipped asparagus at the farmer's market.  Olivia wanted to try white asparagus too, so I picked up a bunch of those when I saw them at Whole Foods.  The purple color turned to green when cooked so we couldn't tell whether there was any difference in flavor between the purple and green asparagus.  The white asparagus were milder in flavor, crisper, and jucier than the green.  

There are lots of different theories out there about how best to trim asparagus.  In Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Julia Child recommends peeling them with a knife to penetrate deeper than a potato peeler would.  Harold McGee wrote a fascinating piece for the New York Times saying that his research showed that the most effective method was to cut the asparagus 6 to 7 inches from the tip.  He then cut all but the very end of the stalk into very thin rounds and cooked and ate those too.  Personally, I have always been a snapper, and I just can't break myself of the habit.  There is  something organic about bending that stalk and letting it snap on its own that feels right to me.  Coincidentally, it seemed that I did get about 6 or 7 inches of tip left.  And I saved the stalks to try cooking them later.

The dressing that I made is a favorite basic vinaigrette.  The recipe makes more than you need for the asparagus, but I just keep the extra on hand and we use it for other salads.  It was perfect to drizzle over the asparagus.  Everyone tried them and the girls were definitely won over, although Oscar still needs a bit more convincing.  Fortunately we made a huge plate of asparagus and, when no one was looking, I polished them off.  Aaaaah, spring!

Asparagus with Shallot Champagne Vinaigrette

Serves 5 as a side dish
15 minutes preparation and cooking time

approximately 1 pound fresh asparagus
1 medium shallot, minced (3-4 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup champagne vinegar (red or white wine vinegar may be substituted)
1/2 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil

Set a large pot of water to boil.  Snap off the ends of the asparagus and reserve then for another purpose.  When the water boils, generously salt the water and add the asparagus.  Let the asparagus boil for 4-6 minutes, until you can pierce them easily with a sharp knife.

Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette.  Whisk together all of the ingredients except the olive oil.  Continue whisking while you slowly add the olive oil.  It is important to add the olive oil very slowly so that it emulsifies (incorporates into the vinegar mixture). 

When the asparagus have finished cooking, drain them in a colander and immediately run cold water over them to stop the cooking.  Arrange them on a platter and drizzle some of the dressing over them.  Reserve the remaining dressing for another purpose.

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Basil Hummus

When it comes to hummus, we are a house divided.  Olivia and Chloe are fans, and Chloe in particular is loving her hummus lately.  Oscar has just decided that he doesn't like it.  We have tried many varieties of hummus to try to win Oscar over-- lemon, garlic, roasted red pepper, chipotle.  The only one that he liked was a basil hummus, but, of course, Chloe didn't like it at all.

Chloe's favorite lately is a brand from our local co-op that is teriffic, so that is what we have been buying (I can't remember the brand name, but the next time I'm there, I'll check and update this post).  It is a simple, smooth, creamy hummus with the flavors in balance and no one flavor that dominates.  But, of course, in my continuing quest to show the children how easy it is to cook our own food -- and how it usually tastes better if it is home made -- I wanted to show Chloe how to make hummus.   So I set out to make a basic hummus that would appeal to her. 

Of course it didn't work out that way.  I first made a very straightforward hummus using just chick peas, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, and salt.  I liked it much better than I thought I would, given how few ingredients it had, and it seemed a lot like the store-made version.  Or so I thought.  Chloe tried it and wrinkled her nose.  And so it went.  I kept tweaking it, but she just didn't like it. 

Finally I decided to abandon all hope of making a version she would like.  We had a pot of basil on the window sill, so I tore off some leaves, tossed them into the food processor with some garlic and more lemon.  I thought that maybe I could get Oscar to eat it.  Chloe watched with interest, and said she wanted to taste it.  I decided not to remind her that she hadn't liked the basil hummus the last time she had it.  So she tasted it and . . . "Now it's getting good, Mommy!"  A few more tweaks to get the measurements right, and we were all happy. 

This hummus is smooth, creamy, with a hint of nuttiness from the tahini, tang from the lemon and garlic, and sweetness from the basil.  Oscar has had it in his lunch a few times and even he likes it.  He told me today, "I don't really like hummus, except the one with the little green bits."  And I think Olivia has happily taken it for lunch three days this week.

I tried not to make any of the flavors too overpowering so that it would be kid-friendly, but you may want to add more lemon, garlic, or basil depending on your family's preferences.  The hummus is great on a sandwich, but my children love anything they can dip, so we usually serve it with wedges of pita, crackers, or veggies.

Basil Hummus

Makes 2 cups
15 minutes preparation time

2 15-ounce cans chick peas, drained and rinsed
3 tablespoons tahini
4 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil
a few pinches of salt
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup basil
approximately 1/2 cup warm water

Put all the ingredients except the basil and water in a food processor and blend.  Add the basil and blend for a few seconds.  With the top on and the food processor running, slowly add the water.  Stop a few times to scrape down the sides and check the consistency.  You may need slightly more or less water to get a creamy consistency.  If you prefer, chill before serving.

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Blueberry Crumb Cake

 
I love crumb cake and a few years ago, I found a recipe for a peach crumb cake on epicurious that was fabulous.  It has become one of those recipes that I turn to again and again.  It's not peach season so when I last made the recipe, I substituted blueberries to excellent results. 

Of course it's not blueberry season either, but last summer my sister's friend gave her a huge box of blueberries which she kindly shared with me.  We have kept our blueberry stash in the freezer and used it for baking and pancakes all winter, and it is now down to a small bag.  It has been such a treat to have this taste of summer available to us throughout the year. 

The layer of fruit under the crumb keeps the cake very moist, even if you store it for a couple of days before serving.  I used some turbinado sugar in the topping because I like the crunch that it adds, but you can substitute more brown sugar instead. 

The children loved helping with this recipe, especially sifting the flour and layering the blueberries and crumb topping.  And they definitely enjoyed the results.

Blueberry Crumb Cake
Adapted from epicurious

For the crumb topping:
1 cup unbleached white flour
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup coarse cane sugar such as turbinado (or substitute brown sugar)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

For the cake:
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup unbleached white flour
3/4 cup baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cup fresh or frozen blueberries

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter and flour an 8-inch square cake pan.

To make the crumb topping, assemble all the ingredients for it in a food processor and pulse until it has mixed thoroughly and the largest pieces of butter are no larger than a pea.  Set aside.

To make the cake, cream the butter and sugar together until the mixture is light and fluffy.  Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each egg.  Sift in the flour, baking powder, and salt and mix just until the flour is moist.  Spoon the batter, which will be quite thick, into the cake pan and spread it evenly across the bottom of the pan.  Sprinkle the blueberries in a single layer over the batter and spoon the crumb topping on top of the blueberries.  Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until a toothpick comes out clean.  Let the cake cool in the cake pan and, just before serving, cut it into squares.

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Taco Frittata

I cannot say enough good things about frittatas.  If you're not familiar with them, they are an Italian egg dish that is essentially a crustless quiche.  One of the best things about them is that they are infinitely adaptable and can be a base for any great combination of flavors.  My favorites include caramelized onion and goat cheese, and swiss chard and gruyere.  But getting my children to eat frittatas has been a bit of a challenge.

They do love their tacos, though, so a frittata with taco fillings and flavors seemed worth a try.  They loved it!  And what's not to love?  The frittata contains black beans, cheddar cheese, and corn chips, all foods that they adore.  I think it was key that Chloe, the most picky eater of the bunch, helped crush the corn chips and add them to the egg.  Just knowing that the dinner contained chips was enough to get her to try it. 

Another plus with frittatas is that they are easy to prepare and relatively quick to cook.  All of the labor is spent in the preparation of the fillings and if you have some helpers that can go even more quickly.  Then the frittata just sits and cooks; you only need to intervene once to move it from stovetop to oven. 

This frittata is substantial enough to have as a main course.  We ate it with bread and a salad it was a satisfying meal for all of us.  It can be eaten either hot or at room temperature, which makes it an ideal dish for a picnic or a potluck dinner. 

Taco Frittata

Serves 5
10 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

10 eggs
3 scallions, chopped
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese, or a mix of monterey jack and cheddar
1 teaspoon cumin
1/4 teaspoon chili powder
1 1/2 15-ounce cans black beans, drained and rinsed
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup crushed tortilla chips
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tomato, sliced into rounds

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, scramble the eggs and add all of the remaining ingredients except the olive oil and tomatoes.  In a large oven-proof frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat until it is quite hot and swirl it around to coat the pan.  Add the egg mixture all at once.  Let the egg cook on the stovetop for about 10 minutes, until the egg starts to set around the edge of the pan.  Gently add the tomato slices to the top of the frittata.

Carefully transfer the pan to the oven and bake it until the frittata is firm, about 20 minutes.  Remove the pan and carefully slide the frittata onto a plate for serving.  Be very careful with the handle of the pan which will remain quite hot for some time.  The frittata can be served hot or at room temperature.  

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