Hide the cheese

Sweet Potato and Maple After School Muffins

We're all bunkered down here waiting to see what hurricane Sandy brings. Schools and offices are closed, the cupboard is stocked, and the firewood is piled high. The winds are whipping aroung outside and we're as prepared as we can be to get thorough the inevitable loss of electricity.

While the power is still on and others in the house are occupied reading and doing homework, I'm sneaking a few minutes to share this recipe with you. It's another in my effort to make healthier after-school snacks for the kids.

Because sweet potatoes are in abundance this time of year and are reputedly one of the healthiest foods available, they seemed like a logical base for a muffin. I also used oat flour for its whole grain goodness and earthiness and olive oil as a healthier alternative to butter or canola oil.

To flavor the muffins, I used my favorite complement of fall spices, those that traditionally jazz up apple or pumpkin pies. But this time, I increased the nutmeg to bring that spice, which so often takes a back seat to cinnamon, up to the forefront.

I made the first batch of muffins with only maple syrup and although the kids gave them  a thumbs up, Gabe and I both thought they needed to be a bit sweeter. Interesting that we had more of a desire for that sweetness than the kids did, isn't it?

After about a day in the storage tin, something funny started to happen to the sweet potato in the muffins. It began to oxidize and those flecks of potato turned from a beautiful autumnal orange to blue and green. I don't know how to explain the science behind that change, but it was not at all appetizing.

When I made the muffins a second time, I tossed the sweet potato with a bit of lemon juice before adding it to the batter. That has done the trick and kept the sweet potato its original color even after cooking and a week of storage. I also added brown sugar to the second batch to make them a bit sweeter. We all did a blind taste test and agreed that the sweeter version was tastier.

If you're home bound, you oven still works, and you happen to have a sweet potato lying around, here's a lovely little snack that you can enjoy and still feel virtuous.

2009: Brown Sugar Cookies
2010: Dinner in a Pumpkin
2011: Caramel Apples

Sweet Potato and Maple After School Muffins

Makes about 18 muffins
approximately 20 minutes preparation time
25 minutes baking time

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 cups oat flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/2 cup brown sugar, plus 3 tablespoons, divided
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 cups grated sweet potato (approximately 1 large sweet potato)
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease two muffin trays or line them with cupcake liners.

In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, oat flour, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and baking soda.

In a large measuring cup or small bowl, pour the lemon juice over the shredded sweet potato and stir to completely coat. In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, maple syrup, 1/2 cup of brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla. Add the shredded sweet potato and mix thoroughly. Add the dry ingredients and stir with a wooden spoon just until the dry ingredients have been evenly incorporated.

Spoon into the muffin tins. Sprinkle the remaining brown sugar over the tops of the muffins.

Bake for about 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cook for a couple of minutes in the pan, then turn onto a baking rack to cool.

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Lemony White Bean Soup

Here's another extremely easy soup for those of you who appreciate an all-in-one-pot, not-too-much-fuss meal. We made it on the hot plate in our temporary kitchen and I wondered why we hadn't made it more often. It used to be one of our favorites but for some reason it had fallen out of our rotation.

The soup is blended and the beans give it a hearty creaminess. A squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of fresh parsley at the end give it some freshness. And because it is packed with protein it is an excellent meal on its own, or, even better, with a crisp salad on the side.

And it really is an extremely easy soup to make. Except for the garnishes, everything goes into the pot at once and then you're done. The beans have to be soaked and they simmer for a while to soften, but they don't even need to be chopped. Only the onion and the parsley go under the knife.

Otherwise, it just simmers away for a few hours, giving your kitchen (or basement, as the case may be) a coziness and giving you the appearance of working to make a delicious meal when you really are doing absolutely nothing. Or doing something better than nothing, like reading a book, or taking a nap. Wouldn't that be lovely?

February 2009: Sage Risotto with Wild Mushrooms
February 2010: Cauliflower Soup with Stilton
February 2011: Lemongrass Noodle Soup with Chili-Garlic Paste

Lemony White Bean Soup
Adapted from Martha Rose Shulman's Fast Vegetarian Feasts

This soup could be varied in an infinite number of ways by changing the garnish. A swirl of pesto, a dab of harissa, or a pat of butter would all be excellent additions. Alternatively, other herbs could be substituted for (or added to) the parsley, such as thyme, chives, or tarragon.

 Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time, plus time for soaking the beans
approximately 2 hours cooking time

1 pound white (Great Northern) beans
1 medium onion, diced
1 bouillon cube or 2 cups vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste
juice or one lemon or more, to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Soak the beans overnight.

The next day, drain the water and add enough fresh water to cover the beans generously. Don't worry about the exact amount of water; more can be added during the cooking process, if needed. Add the onions, bouillon or stock, and the bay leaf. Season generously.

Bring the soup to a boil over medium-high heat. Once it is boiling, reduce the heat and let the soup simmer until the beans are very soft, about 2 hours. Check periodically throughout the cooking process to make sure the is enough water and give the beans a stir.

When the beans have finished cooking, remove the bay leaf. Puree with an immersion blender. Add the lemon juice and parsley. Serve immediately with more lemon on the side, if desired.

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Green Lasagna

Before we left for our spring break, the farmers' market was loaded with greens, but not much else. We decided to make this lasagna with it, which is loosely based on a lasagna that my sister and brother-in-law have made many times for us. I love the flavors because the greens and the basil give it a freshness that suits the season, even if it is a cheesy, comforting lasagna. It has become one of our family favorites.

Although we made the dish in spring, it really is perfect for fall and winter too, when those greens are abundant at the markets. I'm not going to say too much more. I'll let the pictures do the talking.

I'm looking forward to heading back to the farmers' market this weekend to see what's available now. Ramps? Asparagus? I can't wait.

Second Helping: Velvety Ramp and Watercress Soup with Crispy Shallots
Thirds: Kale Chips

Green Lasagna

1 pound lasagne noodles*
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
12 cups fresh spinach leaves, carefully washed
16 ounces ricotta
1 cup freshly grated parmesan
4 1/2 cups whole milk
9 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
olive oil for the pan
1 large bunch of basil
1 half pound mozzarella

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt the water, and cook the lasagne noodles for a minute less than the time called for on the package. When they are done, drain them in a colander and rinse them with cold water. Stir them gently with a wooden spoon as you rinse to keep them from sticking together.

Put the spinach in a large stock pot and add enough water to nearly cover it. Bring the pot to a boil. Cook until the spinach wilts but is still a bright green. Drain the spinach in a colander, mashing it with a wooden spoon against the side of the colander to remove any remaining water. Let it sit for a few minutes to cool and dry out while you make the bechamel sauce.

In a small stockpot, heat the milk over low heat. It should be warm but not boiling. (You could even heat it in the microwave in a glass measuring cup if you don't want to get another pot dirty.) In a larger sauce pan, melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter begins to foam, add the flour, reduce the heat to medium-low, and stir until the flour is fully incorporated. Add the milk and stir vigorously until the mixture is smooth. Add a few pinches of salt and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture has thickened and you feel a lot of resistance against the spoon as you stir. Stir in the nutmeg. Remove the pan from the heat, cover it, and set it aside.

In a large bowl, mix the cooled spinach with the ricotta and parmesan. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Spread a bit of oil over the bottom of a 9-by-13 inch lasagne pan and place a layer of noodles over the bottom. Add enough of the spinach mixture to cover the noodles thinly. Add a layer of basil leaves. Don't be tempted to skimp on the basil; it is the secret ingredient that sets this lasagne apart. Repeat with another layer of noodles-spinach-basil.

Ladle enough of the bechamel sauce over the second layer to cover it. Keep adding more layers of noodles-spinach-basil until you run out of spinach mixture. Pour the remaining bechamel over the top of the lasagne, letting it drip down the sides if you have enough. Add mozzarella to the top.

Bake until the lasagne is lightly browned on top and bubbling, about 45 minutes. Let it rest for about 5 minutes before cutting and serving.

 * Am I the only one that always has way too many lasagne noodles left over? You will not need the full pound, but I make them all anyway because I'm never sure how many I will need. If you  are feeling crafty, you can always cut the extras into strips, toss them with some olive oil and butter, and serve them to any pickier eaters who won't eat the lasagne because it has green stuff in it.

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Pumpkin Soup with a(n Optional) Kick

I know, I know, another recipe for pumpkin soup. Who needs it? But stick with me. This version is worth trying.

I went to a lunch recently for a friend who was having one of those milestone birthdays that need to be celebrated. There was lots of delicious food there, but the birthday girl herself had made a pumpkin soup that created a stir. It was smooth and hearty, with just a bit of heat. I loved that kick, and wanted to recreate it at home.

Peeling and seeding the pumpkin.

But then I pictured three pairs of young eyes looking at me, wondering what I was trying to do by them making a soup that made those precious eyes water. Maybe a spicy soup wouldn't do.

Or maybe it would. I like the challenge of finding a way to create one meal that the entire family can eat without sacrificing the flavor that we adults love. I thought about making two separate batches, but that requires getting two pots dirty, and that is not appealing. Instead, I decided it would be better to add the spice at the table. That way those of us who find spice to be the spice of life could have our way without smoking out the younger ones. So I made a chili oil to drizzle into the soup as we served it.

Chili oil and prepping for the soup.
Somewhere along the way, I determined that the soup would benefit from a pinch of saffron, which has a warm flavor I thought would complement the chili. The result was delicious. Olivia, Gabe, and I all drizzled on the chili oil, although in varying amounts. The other two got theirs straight up, and both liked it. Phew.

This soup would be perfect for any party where guests might have different tolerances for spiciness, such as a dinner party or Thanksgiving dinner.

Pumpkin Soup with a(n Optional) Kick

Serves 6
25 minutes preparation time
About 1 hour 15 minutes cooking time

The chili oil will vary in heat according to the spiciness of the red pepper flakes that you use so it will be hard to predict how spicy the resulting oil will be. If you have left over chili oil, it will keep in the refrigerator for several months.

For the chili oil:
1/2 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

For the soup:
1 small pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cubed (about 6 cups)*
2 tablespoons olive oil
pinch of red pepper flakes
1 medium onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
3 medium carrots, chopped
1 pinch saffron
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon salt
2 small tomatoes, chopped (about 1 cup)

First make the chili oil. Heat the oil and red pepper flakes in a small saucepan over low heat. Gently simmer for about five minutes to infuse the chili flavor into the oil. Set aside to cool. Pour into a small bowl or bottle.

Next make the soup. Heat the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the red pepper flakes, onion, and garlic. Sauté until the onion softens, about 7 minutes. Add the celery and carrot and cook until they too begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the saffron, potatoes, and pumpkin and stir to combine. Cover the vegetables with water (I used about 8 cups) and bring the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the potatoes and pumpkin are soft, about 45 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer for a few more minutes.

With a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon, mash some of the vegetables to thicken the soup. Serve hot with a drizzle of chili oil for those who would like it.

* I used a small pumpkin, and peeling and cubing it wasn't too difficult. The pictures tell the story, but here -- in words -- is my process. First I cut off the top and bottom of the pumpkin to get it to sit flat. Then I cut the pumpkin in half from top to bottom and scooped out the seeds. I then peeled each half with a potato peeler. To slice the pumpkin, I lay each half cut side down, sliced across into strips, and then the other way to get cubes.

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Hide the Cheese Lavender-Cheddar Muffins

We had a busy, fantastic, fun weekend. Along with Halloween and visits from some of our favorite people on the planet, we had a bash for my birthday, complete with a band whose services we had bought at the Acorn Hill silent auction. It was such a treat to have the house filled with music, and even better to have that music enhanced by the sounds of conversation and laughter. A big, noisy party does me good.

Of course there was food. We made a large version of the Dinner in a Pumpkin, some frittatas, noodles, a grilled veggie platter, Grilled Eggplant Baba Ganoush, and a red pepper-feta dip. Friends and family filled in the gaps with fried plantains, spinach fritters, fresh veggies, and black bean sliders. For desserts, we made Oscar's crowd-pleasing brownies along with pecan bars and red velvet and carrot cupcakes that our super babysitter made as part of her cupcake business. I will have some of those recipes to write up for you soon.

Grating cheese and mixing the batter.
In addition to the food that we served, there were a couple of dishes I planned to make that I didn't get finished, including these savory muffins. A while back, Oscar declared, "Mom, you should make Hide the Cheese muffins!" We are fans of Alice Waters' Hide and Seek Muffins from Franny at Chez Panisse, and aparently he thought we should have our own Hide the Cheese version. The idea of a savory muffin had been rattling around in my head anyway, because I thought they would be the perfect nibble to accompany a drink. I loved the idea.

Cubing the cheese and hiding it.

I tested this recipe out a couple of weeks before the party thinking I could make them in advance and freeze them. They were a big hit around here, though, and after everyone ate their fill, there were none left to freeze. I never got around to making more for the party, so now I'll think of these as my woulda, coulda, shoulda muffins. I think they make an excellent snack and would be delicious on the Thanksgiving table or at brunch. If I get enough of these recipes together, it just may be the excuse I need to have another party.

Second Helping: Pumpkin Cupcakes with Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting

Hide the Cheese Lavender-Cheddar Muffins

When I made these muffins, I did not completely submerge the cheese cubes with batter, and the result was that the cheese bubbled up and coated the top of the muffins. They were delicious that way, but when I make them again, I will try topping some of the cheese cubes with batter to see if I get a gooey, cheesy center. I'll update this post once I've given it another go.

Makes 10-12 muffins
20 minutes preparation time
20-25 minutes baking time

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup white whole wheat flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried lavender
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup milk
1 1/4 cups grated cheddar
12 small cubes of cheddar (mine were about 1/2-inch cubes)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and oil a standard 12-cup muffin tin (or line it with cupcake liners)

Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt and lavender together in a small bowl. Add the egg, milk and grated cheese, and mix just until all of the flour mixture has been incorporated. The batter will be stiff and quite lumpy.

Spoon the batter into the cups of a muffin tin, filling each cup about two-thirds full. Push one cube of cheese into each muffin. The batter will come up around the sides of the cheese cube but will not quite swallow it.

Bake until a toothpick comes out clean (don't put it in the center where the cheese is), about 20 to 25 minutes. The muffins are best served warm.

Jobs for children: Children can help grate cheese, measure, mix, grease or line muffin tins, and, of course, hide the cheese.

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Corn and Green Bean Chowder

Autumn arrived has arrived here with a bang. More like a splash, actually. Lots of rain and cool weather and suddenly summer is a distant memory. Sandals and shorts? I had them on just a few days ago, but now, sitting here typing on a cool, rainy day, I can't imagine it.

Fall brings its own rewards, though. Crisp days and cool nights. Vibrant red, orange, and yellow leaves against bright blue skies. Paths littered with acorns. The sound of leaves underfoot.  And the flavors: crisp apples, warm soups, sweet pies. Suddenly fall feels great.

We ushered in fall this past weekend camping with friends. Last year we had planned a trip with the same friends, but ended up canceling at the last minute when the torrential rains did not ease up. (All was not lost, though, because we did make some excellent pumpkin cupcakes). This year, we got a great weekend. The days were sunny and cool, and the nights downright chilly, perfect for sitting around a campfire and roasting marshmallows. With good company for the adults and children alike, it was worth the year-long wait.

Veggies prepped and ready for the pot; Chloe pulling the leaves off the thyme stems.

I now have a renewed desire to get out there into the woods more often. Just seeing all the stars in the dark sky, far removed from the city lights, is reason enough to make the trek. And there is something about having to work a bit harder to stay warm, prepare a meal, clean the dishes that makes it seem simpler yet more worthwhile.

Simmering the stock.

I made this soup before we left for the weekend and warmed it over our friends' camp stove, which I think heated it twice as fast as it would have heated on my stovetop at home. This soup uses the best of those vegetables that are abundant at this time of the changing of the seasons -- potatoes, carrots, green beans, even late summer corn if you can find it. The result is a comforting soup that was perfect for a crisp night under a clear sky. It would be delicious on a rainy one too, for that matter.

Second Helping: Chunky Apple Muffins

Corn and Green Bean Chowder

For this soup, I used those skinny green beans, often labeled French Green Beans or Haricots Verts. Regular green beans would do nicely, too, although they need a few extra minutes of cooking time.

Serves 6
20 minutes preparation time
50 minutes cooking time

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 large onion, diced (about 1 cup)
1 medium carrot, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1 small celery rib, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
3 cups milk
3 cups vegetable stock
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 large potatoes, peeled and cubed (about 2 cups)
corn cut off of 3 ears of corn (or 1 1/2 cups frozen corn)
2 cups green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch segments

Melt the butter in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and thyme and cook until the vegetables begin to soften, 6-7 minutes. Add the bay leaf, stock, milk, salt and pepper, and bring the soup to a simmer. Reduce the heat to very low so that the milk does not scald, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Add potatoes and corn, and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. With an immersion blender or a potato masher, mash some of the potatoes into the broth to thicken it (this took about 5 seconds with my immersion blender).

Add the green beans and simmer until they are tender, about 5 minutes for French green beans, or a few minutes more for regular green beans. Taste and adjust seasonings, if necessary. Serve hot. Campfire optional.

Jobs for children: Smaller children can peel carrots and potatoes, pull the thyme leaves off the stems, snap the ends off the beans, measure milk and stock, grind pepper. Older children can chop vegetables.

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Smoky Eggplant Lasagna

So that's it then. Summer is officially over. Sigh. I can't say that I'm ready to leave it behind, the long days, lazy evenings at the pool, unstructured hours of who-knows-what. We did our best to wring the last bits out of summer this past weekend, with some time at the pool, a party at a friend's house to celebrate the bounty of our local farms, and a bike ride along the C & O Canal towpath.

But the weather has turned cooler and it is beginning to feel like fall, with all that the season promises. We made this lasagna the night before the first day back at school to help us bridge the seasons. It is lighter than eggplant parmesan, with a fresh flavor, and it doesn't require all that dipping and frying that goes along with the preparation of eggplant parmesan.

It all started at a farmers' market, as it often does. We spied a variety of adorable eggplants and the children wanted to buy a few of each of them. What? Eggplant? Are you kidding? You won't eat them! That was what I thought, but I fought off the impulse to pass them up and scooped them up instead. If I buy them, maybe they'll eat them. And, besides, did I mention that they were very cute?


Olivia wanted to make eggplant parmesan with them, but they really weren't the right size or shape. They were small enough that I thought they would be tender and I could skip the peeling and salting. The smoky flavor came from the smoked mozzarella which complements the eggplant.

When we sat down to eat the lasagna, Chloe didn't recognize the eggplant and she was quite suspicious. I'm not one to hide the true ingredients from children because I'd rather my kids learned to love all that great produce than to find out that I'd tricked them into eating something they say they hate. But I also don't always announce the ingredients that I think may be an obstacle.

Instead, we play, Guess the Secret Ingredient. Everyone has to have a few bites and then try to guess what is in the dish. My hope is that by the time someone guesses "eggplant," the children will have tried the dish and decided whether or not it was good without the specter of eating a food they don't think they like. It doesn't always work, but in this case, it did. Although neither Chloe or Oscar ate all of the eggplant bits, they did eat around them instead of refusing to eat dinner at all. I'll take my small victories however I can get them.

Maybe it won't be so hard to leave summer behind after all.

Second Helping: Moro Bean, Tomato, and Basil Salad

Eggplant Lasagna

I used a mix of varieties of small, tender eggplants and left the skins on. If you use larger ones, peel them first. I don't find salting necessary in this dish because they eggplants are mixed in with so many flavors that they are not bitter at all.

I always seem to have leftover lasagna noodles after assembling a lasagna. I'm not sure why a standard box has more noodles than one really needs to make a standard lasagna. It's just like hotdogs. Why do they sell them in packages of 10 when the buns come in packets of 12 (or is it 8 and 10?). Anyway, if you have leftovers, slice them into strips and toss them with a bit of olive oil and salt. The Italians refer to these odd shapes as "malfatti," meaning poorly made. They taste like any other pasta, though, and could make the start of a nice little lunch.

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 cups diced eggplant
6 cups chopped San Marzano tomatoes (fresh if you can get them or canned if you can't)
salt and pepper to taste
1 pound lasagna noodles
1 15-ounce container ricotta
1 pound smoked mozzarella, thinly sliced
about 30 fresh basil leaves

Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saute pan. Add the onions, carrots, and garlic and eggplant and cook until they soften, 10-15 minutes. If you are adding fresh tomatoes, add them with their juice. If you use canned tomatoes, drain most of the water, but add enough to make the vegetables slightly saucy. Cook with the tomatoes until the sauce has thickened and the flavors have blended, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

While the sauce is cooking, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the lasagna noodles and boil them according to the package directions. Drain the noodles and run cold water over them stirring them gently with a wooden spoon or your hands to keep them from sticking.

Spread a thin layer of the sauce in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch casserole dish. Arrange a single layer of noodles on top of the sauce. Spread a large spoonful of ricotta across each noodle. Top with a few basil leaves. Add a layer of sauce. Repeat with another layer just like that, noodles, ricotta, basil,  sauce.  You should have enough ricotta for a second layer. For the next layer, use noodles, smoked mozzarella, basil, and sauce. Keep adding layers until you run out of sauce or space in the dish, whichever happens first. For me, this was a total of four layers of noodles. The last layer should have sauce topped by mozzarella.

Bake the lasagna until the cheese is melted, about 30 minutes. If you would like the cheese on the top to brown a bit, remove the lasagna and heat the oven to broil. Put the lasagna back in for a couple of minutes, until the cheese begins to turn a golden brown. Watch very carefully because it will brown quickly and the last thing you need is to burn the lasagna. Remove from the oven immediately. Let it rest for a couple of minutes before you slice and serve.

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Triple Ginger Zucchini Bread (or Muffins)

Apparently I have become obsessed with zucchini this year. We have eaten tons of tomatoes, peaches, corn, and all manner of other wonderful summer produce, but this is the third time that I am writing about zucchini this summer. (In case you have blocked out the others, do Zucchini and Brown Butter Spaghetti and Grilled Zucchini Summer Sandwiches ring a bell?) Evidently I'm in a zucchini state of mind.

For those of you who don't like zucchini or are just plain sick of it, my apologies. Then again, maybe you are the audience that most needs this recipe. Because zucchini bread isn't really about a love of zucchini, is it? It's more about disguising something that you have had enough of in a way that it is still appealing. And it is about making the most of those gigantic steroid squashes that are so bountiful this time of year.

When I was plotting my strategy for using up our stash of zucchini this summer, I knew that I wanted to modify my standard zucchini bread recipe to jazz it up a bit. I love the cinnamon flavor profile of my traditional recipe, but I have eaten so many of those loaves and muffins over the year that I wanted something new. New and different, but not too new and different. I am, after all, cooking for clientele under five feet (but not for long!) that doesn't always like change. So there I was again, walking the tightrope between pushing the flavor in a new direction and bringing the kids along for the ride. I thought about adding lemon, but as I reached for the lemon in the fruit bin in my refrigerator, I saw something even better lying next to it. Ginger!

I added fresh ginger as well as candied ginger and powdered ginger. The result is a zucchini bread studded with flecks of golden ginger and enhanced with its sweet-spicy flavor. I loved it, and for the most part, the children did too. Chloe wrinkled her nose, but she ate most of it, and even a few cousins gave it a thumbs up. I still have one more giant zucchini in the refrigerator and a stash of muffins and bread in the freezer. Bountiful harvest!

Second Helping: Zuccanoes (yes, more zucchini!)

Triple Ginger Zucchini Bread

As noted, because I made this version for a broad audience, I didn't go too crazy with the ginger, and it is very good as written. If I were making it for myself, though, I would add another half teaspoon of fresh ginger and an additional quarter cup of candied ginger. Just because I could.

1 cup white whole wheat flour
1 cup unbleached white flour
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
2/3 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 cups raw, grated zucchini
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1/3 cup candied ginger, minced
1/2 cup walnuts (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a standard loaf pan or 12-cup muffin tin (or use cupcake liners for easier clean up and prettier muffins).

In a small bowl, whisk together the flours, cinnamon, ground ginger, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs until they are fluffy. Add the sugar, canola oil, and vanilla, and mix until they are thoroughly combined. Add the zucchini and fresh ginger and mix again.

Add the dry ingredients to the zucchini mixture and mix until the ingredients are just combined and there are no spots of dry flour. Add the candied ginger and walnuts, if you are using them, and mix briefly.

Pour the batter into the loaf pan or muffin tin (fill each cup no more than two-thirds full so that they will rise nicely). Bake the bread for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes or the muffins for 30 to 35 minutes. In either case, they are done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

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Smokin' Chili

 
Oscar is eagerly awaiting the Superbowl.  Oh, sure, we may watch some of the game on TV, and some of us will enjoy the commercials as much as the game.  Chances are I'll be doing something else at the same time if we do watch it.  You know, something exciting like folding laundry or writing up a recipe. 

But the real excitement will come in the week leading up to the big game.  What Oscar is really looking forward to is the Superbowl display at Whole Foods.  As best Oscar could remember, the set up is a miniature football field with corks for players and beer bottles for referees. The whole display is walled in by large quantities of tortilla chips and soda.  I wish I could remember it better myself, but I'm sure that I tried to move on as soon as I saw those large quantities of chips.

 
If we do watch the game, we'll take a traditional culinary route and whip up a pot of chili.  Maybe we'll have some chips and tomatillo salsa, too.  But this chili recipe will definitely be on the table.  The smoked paprika and chipotle in adobo sauce give the chili a fantastic smoky flavor and the cilantro adds a touch of freshness.  The chipotle also gives the chili a moderate amount of heat.  You can add more if you want more kick, or leave it out altogether if you are making this for children who  can't tolerate the spicyness.  For a crowd, I make a double batch, one with the chipotle and one without.  Leftovers freeze well. 

With or without the game, this chili is warming on a cold January night.  We may even recreate our own Superbowl display at home.  Maybe we'll use blocks instead of the chips and soda, but I think we'll keep the beer bottle referee.

Smokin' Chili

Serves 8
20 minutes preparation time, plus time for soaking the beans
1 hour and 30 minutes cooking time

1 pound dried kidney beans, or a combination of kidney, navy, and pinto beans, soaked overnight
1 tablespoon cumin
1 tablespoon smoked paprika or pimenton
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium yellow or red pepper, diced
6 garlic cloves, chopped
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes (preferably San Marzano), with their juice, chopped
1 tablespoon chipotle in adobo sauce, finely minced (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup chopped cilantro
toppings such as grated cheese, minced onion, or sour cream for servings

Whisk together the cumin, smoked paprika, oregano, and cloves.  Heat them in a large stockpot over medium heat until they are fragrant, just a minute or two.  Remove them from the pot. 

Add the olive oil to the pan and warm it.  Add the onion, pepper, and garlic and cook until they soften, 7 or 8 minutes.  Add the beans, tomatoes with their liquid, the spice mixture, and salt and pepper.  Add the chipotle if you are using it, but if you would like to separate the chili into two batches, one mild and one spicy, divide it into two pots at this point.  Then add the chipotle to one pot (you may want to use half the amount). 

If the tomato liquid is not sufficient to cover the beans, add a bit of water until the beans are just submerged. 

Cook the chili uncovered until the beans have softened, about an hour and a half.  Check the liquid and add more water if it is necessary to keep the beans covered.  When the beans are soft, add the cilantro and serve with the toppings of your choice.

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Torta Rustica a la Biba

For my first few years as a vegetarian, I was very happy eating all the side dishes at the big holidays.  A girl can do pretty well with mashed potatoes, stuffing, Brussels sprouts, and green beans.  And of course, dessert is always vegetarian. 

But one year, Gabe and I were watching a cooking show with Biba Caggiano, one of our favorite chefs who I have written about before here and here, and we watched her make a beautiful vegetable tart.  Gabe scribbled furiously to try to get the basics down.  I'm not sure that we got it all right, but the version we came up with is delicious.  We made it for Christmas that year, and it has been our main course every year since.  Even some of the meat eaters have confessed that they love it more than the turkey.

 
The tart is layers of roasted red peppers, spinach, mushrooms, and Fontina cheese.  The dough has a bit of wine in it, and the entire combination is fantastic.

One word about the process.  I have always laboriously brushed or wiped my mushrooms so that they don't absorb any water.  But, lately, I've been reading that if you rinse them quickly they don't take in much water at all.  Apparently food scientist Harold McGhee tested how much water is absorbed into mushrooms when you wash them, and it was only a tiny bit.  If it's good enough for McGhee and the man who knows How to Cook Everything, Mark Bittman, I thought it was worth giving it a shot.  I did dry them with a paper towel quickly after washing them, though.  Old habits are hard to break.

 
I'm looking forward to tucking into a piece of this on Christmas.  I still haven't decided what else to make.  So, tell me, what dishes are part of your family's holiday traditions?

Torta Rustica a la Biba

I have made this tart in advance and frozen it.  It is not quite as good as it is fresh, but it's still mighty tasty.

for the dough:
2 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick (8 tablespoons) cold, unsalted butter, cut into 10 or so pieces
1/2 cup white wine
1 egg, lightly beaten

for the filling:
4 medium red peppers or 1 16-ounce jar of roasted red peppers
2 pounds fresh spinach, washed thoroughly and large stems removed
1/3 cup heavy cream
1/3 cup parmesan
2 talespoons unsalted butter
1 pound crimini mushrooms
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 pound Fontina cheese, grated
1 egg, lightly beaten
salt and pepper to taste

First, make the dough.  Whisk together the flour and salt.  Work the butter in with your fingers until it ranges in size between large grains of sand and small pebbles.  Add the white wine and egg and mix until it forms a dough.  If you need more liquid, add a splash more wine to get it to hold together.  Roll the dough into a ball and cut it into two pieces, one slightly larger than the other.  Flatten the balls into discs and wrap each in plastic wrap.  Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

While the dough is chilling, make the filling.  I have found that using pre-roasted peppers saves a lot of time and the dish still tastes fabulous.  If you want to roast the peppers yourself, put them on a baking sheet and roast them in the broiler until they are blackened.  Let them cool to room temperature and slip off the skins.  Cut them open and remove the seeds.  Whether you roast your own peppers or buy them pre-roasted, cut them into long, thin strips.  Set aside.

Make sure to wash the spinach thoroughly so you don't get any bits of grit in the torta.  While the spinach is still wet, put it in a large pot and cover it.  Over medium heat, cook it until it wilts completely, about 7 minutes.  Remove it from the pot and drain it in a colander.  When the spinach is cool enough to touch, squeeze out as much water as you can and roughly chop it.  Put it in a medium-sized bowl and mix in the cream and parmesan.  Add salt pepper and taste.  Add more if necessary.  Set aside.

Heat the butter in a saute pan over medium heat and add the garlic.  Cook it for a minute or so, just until it turns golden.  Add the mushrooms and cook them until the water is gone and they are lightly browned, 7 to 10 minutes.  Remove the pan from the heat.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

When the dough has chilled, roll out the larger piece on a piece of plastic wrap.  Drape the dough over a rolling pin and slide it into a 9-inch pie plate.  Layer the filling on top of the dough in the following order:  first the mushrooms, then the spinach mixture, then the red peppers and, finally, the grated Fontina.  Roll out the smaller piece of dough and cover the pie with it.  Trim the edges, leaving enough dough so that the top piece can fold under the bottom one.  Crimp the edges of the crust and cut a few small slits in the top. Brush the top crust with the egg.  If you would like to make a decorative topping, re-roll the scraps and use a cookie cutter to cut out the shape of your choice.  Add it to the top of the torta and brush it with egg.

Bake the torta until it is beautifully browned, 45 to 55 minutes.  Let it sit for a couple of minutes before serving.

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Borlotti Bean Minestrone

We had just enough snow this past weekend to help me switch gears from Thanksgiving to the upcoming holidays.  Usually when snow is in the forecast, the whole town gets worked up only to get a few flurries.  But this time, the kids took all the necessary steps.  They wore their pajamas inside out, put spoons under their pillows, and put ice cubes in the sink (apparently, they are supposed to get flushed down the toilet, but in this old house with its many plumbing quirks, Gabe decided that a slow melt in the sink would be safer).  And the snow came.  It was not much, but it was enough for a bit of sledding, a few snowballs, and a tiny snowman.  It got all of us excited and in a winter mood.

We celebrate Christmas, and for the last few years we have headed out to the country to cut down our own tree.  We have tried a few different farms over the years, but this year we went back to Maynes which has a big selection, but still feels like a family farm.  The ground was very muddy, but once Olivia said that it looked like chocolate butter cream, we all liked it a lot better.  A few turns at the saw for each of us, and we had ourselves a beautiful tree.  In fact, Gabe and I thought it was the best tree we have ever had, but apparently the kids have heard that before.

This minestrone is perfect for a day of sawing trees, chopping wood, or playing in the snow.  Or even a day staying inside playing games, for that matter.  It is hearty, filling and delicious.  I used borlotti beans that I had gotten from Rancho Gordo, but you could easily substitute kidney or even cannellini beans.  It takes a bit of chopping up front, but the rest of the cooking time it just simmers and you only need to give it an occasional stir.

"Minestrone" is a derivation of the Italian word "minestra" which means soup.  The -one suffix usually means big, so a minestrone is a bigger, heartier soup, with less broth.  I asked Gabe about other Italian -one words.  A calzone is a large calza (sock).  Tortellone are large tortellini.  You get the idea.  And how interesting that Al Capone (his given name as far as I can tell), was one of the biggest mafia bosses, or capo, of all time. 

From snow to mafia bosses.  My mind does wander, doesn't it?

Borlotti Bean Minestrone

Serves 6
30 minutes preparation time
Approximately 3 hours cooking time

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium onion, minced
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 celery stalks, chopped
3 carrots, chopped
3 potatoes, chopped
1 cup dried borlotti beans or 2 15-ounce cans kidney beans or 1 cup dried kidney beans, soaked overnight
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes with their juice, preferably San Marzano, chopped
1 parmesan rind (optional)
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, plus more to taste
2 cups frozen peas
1 Savoy cabbage, finely sliced
1 cup uncooked rice
6 fresh sage leaves, chopped
10 fresh basil leaves, chopped
freshly grated parmesan cheese for serving

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large soup pot and add the garlic, onion, parsley, celery, carrots, potatoes, borlotti beans, tomatoes, and parmesan rind.  Stir for a couple of minutes to coat the vegetables with oil.  Add 10 cups of water and bring it to a boil.  Lower the heat, cover, and let the soup simmer for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally.  Add the cabbage and peas and cook for about 15 minutes.  Add the rice and cook until it is tender, about 20 minutes.  Stir in the sage and basil and serve immediately.

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Oatmeal Chocolate Chip After School Cookies

 
The children have been back at school for more than a month now, and we are finally getting into a routine.  It is all a bit bewildering for me those first few weeks, trying to get back in the rhythm of the school year again.  But Chloe is now quite happily settling into kindergarten and comes home each day singing songs she has learned.  Olivia just became a patrol, and could not be more enthusiastic.  For the last couple of days, she has had Chloe and Oscar dressed, teeth brushed, and ready for breakfast more than an hour before they needed to leave for school because she wanted to get there early and begin patroling.  Oscar, too, seems to be settling comfortably into his second year.  I learned today that his butterfly was "fourth out of the first five" out of the chrysalis.  Very exciting stuff.

When they get home from school, I want them to be greeted by the feeling of home.  In the world of food, nothing does that better than milk and cookies.  The cookies should be homemade, of course, and the smell of them baking should waft through the door as they walk thorough it.  I'd be there to greet them in a frilly apron, with a set of pumps and a string of pearls, cookies and milk loaded onto a silver tray. . .  Okay, I'm getting a bit carried away, but there is something very traditional and homey in a 1950s kind of way about milk and cookies. 

Of course, cookies aren't the healthiest snack so I prefer to make them an occasional treat rather than an everyday snack.  But I also thought it would be good to develop a healthier version that would be a bit more nutritious and stick with them until dinner.  This recipe is my attempt to accomplish that. 

Oatmeal replaces some of the flour and whole wheat pastry flour, which adds a whole grain without the heaviness of regular whole wheat flour, replaces the rest.  It has less butter and sugar and fewer chocolate chips than most recipes.  I also added an extra egg to compensate for the reduction in butter on the theory that eggs are healthier because they have more protein.  The nuts are optional, but if your children eat them, load them in because they too are filled with healthy protein.

Presto chango and now that classic cookie snack is something I feel better about giving them regularly.  The cookie is soft and cakey, with a touch of chewiness from the oatmeal.  They are similar enough to a regular chocolate chip cookie that the children love them, especially dipped into a glass of cold milk. 

And after the children are in bed, the dishes are done, and the house is quiet, they make a tasty treat for the adults, too.

Oatmeal Chocolate Chip After School Cookies

The dough for the cookies can be frozen.  If you're very organized, you could form it into tablespoons and freeze them on a cookie sheet.  When they harden, put them in a freezer bag to store them.  When you want to cook them, just pop them on the sheet.  They may need a couple of extra minutes to cook.  Otherwise, you can just freeze the dough in a storage container or freezer bag.  Let it thaw in the refrigerator before cooking.

1 cup oatmeal
1 3/4 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 sticks butter
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 large eggs
3/4 cup chocolate chips
1 cup walnuts or pecans (optional)

In a small bowl, whisk together the oatmeal, pastry flour, baking soda, and salt, and set aside.  Melt the butter.  Meanwhile, measure the brown and granulated sugars into a large bowl.  When the butter has melted, whisk it into the sugars.  Add the vanilla and eggs.  Stir in the flour mixture.  Add the chocolate chips and nuts, if you are using them, and mix them into the dough.

Chill the dough for at least an hour and as long as a few days.  When you are ready to bake the cookies, adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower third of the oven.  Preheat to 375 degrees.  Arrange the cookies on an ungreased cookie sheet by rounded tablespoons, leaving a couple of inches between cookies.  Bake for 9 to 11 minutes until the cookies are golden brown.

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Basil Pesto

If you've been reading this site for a bit now, you know that our yard has very little sun and we have had no success growing vegetables at home.  That is what led me to embark on our far away gardening project.  One year, though, our children's babysitter, Rosalyn, gave me a few basil plants.  Given our track record, I was pessimistic, but I planted them in different sites, hoping one of them would grow.  By late August, they were enormous.   It turned out that the best spot is right along the road in front of our house, a spot now shared by a basketball pole.  We ate basil with tomatoes that summer, and we also made a lot of pesto. 

So much pesto that I froze a few batches.  It was wonderful to take some of that pesto out of the freezer in the dead of winter and have a meal that tasted of summer.  Now one of our end-of-summer traditions is to make several batches of pesto for the freezer.  We use them for pasta, of course, but it also delicious on pizza, sandwiches, or stirred into soup.  Of course, if you don't have basil in your garden, you can pick some up at the farmers' market or the grocery store.

 

This recipe makes a traditional Genovese basil pesto.  It is adapted from the recipe of one of our favorite cookbooks, Biba Caggiano's Trattoria Cooking.  Every recipe we have made from this book has been excellent, and I think this pesto has the perfect balance of garlic and basil.  Most recently, we tossed the pesto with whole wheat fettucine and slow-roasted tomatoes made with Smitten Kitchen's recipe, which added little bursts of sweetness.  Delicious!

Basil Pesto

Adapted from Biba Caggiano's Trattoria Cooking

If you are making pesto to freeze, don't add the parmigiano at this point; add it after the frozen pesto has thawed.  I freeze this pesto in individual batches in quart-size freezer bags.  To thaw it, set the bag in a bowl of hot water.  As the water cools, replace the hot water a few times.  It should take no more than 15 minutes to defrost. 

Makes approximately 3/4 cup, enough for 1 pound of pasta
20 minutes preparation time 

3 cups basil leaves
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 cup pine nuts
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup grated parmigiano (omit if freezing)

Put all of the ingredients except the parmigiano in the bowl of a food processor.  Pulse until the mixture is well-incorporated, but still a bit chunky.  Pour into a bowl and stir in the parmigiano.  Taste, and add more salt if you like (the pesto should be fairly salty, especially if you are tossing it with pasta). 

Roasted Heirloom Tomato Sauce

We have struck it rich in the tomato department.  All of those heirloom tomato plants that we planted in the garden at Black Ankle are producing like mad.  Mary has been bringing us a large basket every week filled with Brandywines, Purple Cherokees, Green Zebras, Purple Russians, and Hawaiian Pineapples.  This week we had so many that she suggested that we get together to make sauce. 

I usually prefer my heirlooms raw because they are so delicious and juicy.  I also have not had success making sauce from heirlooms.  All that juiciness translates into a very watery sauce.  Drain all that water off and there's not much pulp left.  But we have had too many to keep up with eating them raw, although believe me, I am doing my best.  Mary suggested we try roasting the tomatoes and I thought that might help dry them out.  It didn't, but the end result was still delicious.

We separated out the yellow Hawaiian Pineapples and Green Zebras to make each into a sauce of its own.  Then we mixed the remaining red and purple varieties.  The Hawaiian Pineapples were remarkably sweet and the Green Zebras quite tart.  The red and purple varieties made a more traditional tomato-y sauce, perfect for pasta, couscous, or polenta. 

Because each of the heirloom varieties has such a different flavor, when you make this recipe, taste the sauce and adjust the flavors as needed.  Roasted shallots were a great complement to the Hawaiian Pineapples and also balanced out the tartness of the Green Zebras (along with a generous amount of basil).  The sauce can be frozen or canned.  If you are canning, you may find the instructions here or here to be helpful. 

In addition to producing some delicious sauce, our sauce making evening was the perfect excuse for a few friends to get together, cook, chat, and share a bottle of wine.  Black Ankle, of course.

Roasted Heirloom Tomato Sauce

Makes about 2 cups of sauce
30 minutes preparation time
40 minutes cooking time

4-5 large heirloom tomatoes
1/4 cup olive oil
5-6 garlic cloves
10-12 basil leaves, torn
Salt

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Core the tomatoes and cut them in half.  Lay them with the cut sides facing up in a roasting or jelly roll pan.  Leave the garlic cloves in their skins and sprinkle them over the tomatoes.  Drizzle the olive oil on top.  Roast the tomatoes until they are very soft and the edges have browned, about 40 minutes.  If you are using heirlooms, a good bit of liquid will come out of the tomatoes as they cook.  Carefully remove the pan from the oven. 

Set a colander in a large bowl.  Pour some of the liquid from the tomatoes into the colander and set the pan aside until the tomatoes are cool enough to handle.  When they have cooled, slip the skins off and discard them.  Peel the skin off the garlic, too.  Pour the tomatoes with their liquid into the colander, and let it drain for a few minutes. 

Pour the tomato mixture from the colander into a bowl, add the garlic, and blend briefly with a hand blender.  Add the basil and a few pinches of salt.

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Simply Peach Pie

I know I have just recently given you a pie recipe, but I really must share this one with you too.  I don't know when it started, but many years ago, I started making this pie for Gabe's birthday.  His birthday is the during the height of peach season and there really is nothing more delicious than a perfect peach.  And as my brother-in-law and I were discussing the other day, peaches are one of those fruits that are as delicious cooked as fresh. 

Now it has become a tradition and every year for Gabe's birthday, we make peach pie.  During Gabe's birthday party the year Olivia was born, I spied my mother cradling Olivia and gently giving her her first food, a finger full of peach pie filling.  Two years later, my mother did the same with Oscar.  (Chloe was only 1 month old at the time of Gabe's birthday, so we had to wait a bit to give her her first food, pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving).

This pie has become a part of our family history.  I love crisps and crumbles, too. Really any variation of good sweet stuff and fruit will do it for me, especially if it is topped with a scoop of ice cream.  But one of the best things about fruit pies is that, because the crust itself does not have a strong flavor, they let the fruit shine.  Over the years my recipe has evolved a bit, but it has always had the fruit as its star.  The filling has no other spices or flavors and with perfectly ripe peaches it is fabulous.  I try to buy the peaches a couple of days in advance so that they have time to ripen before I make the pie.  Or if I am making it the same day, I buy seconds at the market.  They are usually more ripe, and any bruises are easily removed. 

                                                                                                        Many thanks to Olivia for taking this picture!

This pie can be eaten either warm or cold, but we prefer it cold.  The crust is best if eaten on the day it is made, but it is still very good a few days later so it can be made ahead.  It can also be frozen.  If you plan to freeze it, assemble it, but do not bake it.  Wrap it tightly with plastic wrap.  When you are ready to eat it, cook it according to the directions, but factor in a bit more time for it to cook completely.

And although I know you are reading to get a recipe, I really can't let the day go by without saying something about the man that this pie honors.  When we were married, we had "hand in hand" inscribed on the inside of our wedding rings. I had no idea how many times that phrase would come to life.  Gabe has been a true partner in this full, happy, crazy life we have together, and I cherish that every day.  What a fabulous man/husband/friend he is.  He is a true peach (totally corny, I know, but Gabe appreciates a good pun).

Simply Peach Pie

1 batch basic pie crust
7-8 large peaches
1/4 cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon butter at room temperature
1/2 cup sugar, plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling

Make the basic pie crust and refrigerate it for at least 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

First, peel the peaches.  Bring a large pot of water to boil.  Gently lower in the peaches and let them boil for about one minute.  Remove them from the water with a slotted spoon and let them drain in a colander.  When they are cool enough to handle, slip off their skins.

Slice the peaches into 1/2-inch pieces.  Cut each of those pieces in half crosswise.  Mix the peaches with the cornstarch and 1/2 cup of sugar.

When the dough has chilled, roll out the larger piece and transfer it into the pie plate.  Pour in the peach filling.  Cut the butter into small pieces and drop them over the filling.  Roll out the second piece of dough into a 10-inch piece and transfer it onto the top of the peaches.  Trim the edge of the crust out to even it out, if necessary.  Fold the edges under and crimp the top and bottom crust together.  Cut a few slits into the top crust.  Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of sugar over the top of the pie. 

Bake on the bottom rack of the oven for 10 minutes, then turn the oven temperature to 350 degrees and cook for about 50 minutes longer, until the crust is lightly browned and the filling is bubbling.  Chill the pie for at least 1 hour to let it set, or for as long as a couple of days.

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Blueberry Birthday Pie

Summer birthdays can have their disadvantages for children.  There is no party at school for one thing.  And we had to schedule Chloe's birthday party 6 weeks from the actual date in order to be sure that all the key players would be in town.

But they have their advantages, too.  There is nothing better than a pool-side birthday party.  And this cook loves that summer birthdays fall in the middle of the best fruit season of the year.  Pie is high on my list of favorites so I was thrilled when Chloe asked for a blueberry pie for her on-the-actual-day-family-birthday-party.  (I don't know how you manage it, but around here each child ends up having at least two birthday parties, one for family and one for friends.)

Since blueberries are so good this time of year, the additions to the filling are minimal so that the taste of the blueberries can shine through.  The touch of lemon zest and a bit of nutmeg are just enough to add some complexity to the flavor.  Since blueberries are ready to go as they are and need no peeling or slicing, this is a very quick pie to make.

By the way, this pie freezes beautifully.  Last summer I made a few for the freezer, and it was such a treat to pull one out and eat it in the middle of winter.  To bake it, just take it directly from the freezer and bake it the same way.  It may take a bit longer to cook, so factor in an extra 15 to 30 minutes. 

Fortunately, we had a big crowd for Chloe's family birthday party, and I made two pies.  Now I have some left to comfort me as I adjust to the idea that our youngest -- and really, she was a baby just a few moments ago -- is 5 years old. 

 
Blueberry Birthday Pie

If the berries are sweet, you will need the minimal amount of sugar.  With deliciously ripe berries, 3/4 of a cup of sugar was perfect.  This recipe also works well with frozen berries if you don't have good fresh ones available.

Serves 8-10
30 minutes preparation time (including making the dough)
45-55 minutes baking time, plus 2 to 3 hours cooling time

For the filling
6 1/2 cups blueberries, rinsed
3/4 to 1 cup granulated sugar, plus 1 tablespoon for sprinkling
3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca
1 teaspoon lemon zest
pinch of nutmeg

Basic pie crust

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Mix the filling ingredients together.  Roll out the larger piece of pie crust until it is a bit larger than your pie plate and carefully transfer it into the pie plate (see the basic pie crust recipe for tips).  Spoon in the filling.  Roll out the smaller piece of crust so that it is large enough to cover the pie and drape it over the top of the blueberries.  Trim any overhanging pie crust with scissors and pinch the edges together.  Cut 3 to 5 vents in the top of the pie crust.  Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of sugar over the top of the pie.

Bake the pie on the lower rack of the oven for 15 minutes.  Turn the oven temperature to 375 degrees and bake until the blueberries are bubbling and the crust is pale golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes.

To allow the filling to set, let the pie cool before you cut it, ideally 2 to 3 hours.

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Oscar's Brownies

This post is kind of cheating because this isn't my recipe.  I haven't modified it one iota.  There was no reason to because these brownies are perfect as is.  So I'm just going to provide you the link to the original recipe and be on my way. 

The recipe originally ran two years ago in the Washington Post with the title "Man Catcher Brownies".  Although that idea seems a bit, well, dated, I have to admit that they are fabulous, and both of the men in my house -- big and little -- (as well as all the females) adore them.  They are rich, dense, and fudgy with a crisp shell on top.  Really, to me they are the perfect brownie.  The kids are a great help making these, especially licking the bowl, spatula, whisk. . .

They have been referred to by friends as Boyfriend Brownies and, my favorite, Man Killer Brownies (when you see what's in them, you'll see why that name may be the most apt).   But around here we call them Oscar's brownies.  He loves all things chocolate and for his birthday I usually make these brownies instead of cake.  Because they are so dense, they are great for constructing all sorts of shapes.  I have made them into a pirate ship, fire truck, and light saber.  

These brownies freeze well, and I have served them at numerous parties, and brought them to bake sales.  Try them and put them to whatever purpose suits you.

Everyday Macaroni and Cheese

Macaroni and cheese seems to be one of those dishes that almost everyone will eat.  In our house, we would all eat it most nights if we could.  But it can be very rich and time consuming to make so it's usually not ideal as a regular meal.  Of course we use those box mixes from time to time because they are a snap to make, and our children love them.  But I prefer baked macaroni and cheese to the stovetop variety.  And really, I love my cheese way too much to be satisfied eating it in powder form. 

I wanted to create a macaroni and cheese that is easy enough to make as a weeknight meal and not too rich, but still delicious.  Moosewood's Lowfat Favorites cookbook has a recipe that is quite good and uses cottage cheese to replace some of the cheddar.  We have tinkered with that recipe over time, and developed a version that we love.  It is a basic cheddar macaroni and cheese with a full, cheesy flavor, and a bit more depth from the shallots and nutmeg. 

This recipe does not involve making a bechamel sauce or cooking the macaroni in advance so it is quick to prepare.  You can tinker with the amount of cheese depending on whether your primary concern is the flavor or healthfulness of the dish.  To me, six ounces struck the perfect balance.

The recipe makes just enough for the five of us, but we probably eat more than most families. Usually we make a double batch to be sure that we have some left over for lunch.  The macaroni and cheese freezes well.  We often make it before a long trip and freeze it, then let it thaw in the car. When we arrive at the end of the road we just pop it in the oven while we unload and unpack.

Now, when the children request macaroni and cheese for one of our weekly meals, we do not hesitate to add it to the list.

Everyday Macaroni and Cheese
Adapted from Moosewood's Lowfat Favorites

Serves 5
15 minutes preparation time
45 minutes baking time

3 tablespoons freshly grated parmesan
3 tablespoons bread crumbs
1 1/2 cups skim milk
1 pound cottage cheese
1 medium shallot, minced (1-2 tablespoons)
6 ounces extra sharp cheddar cheese, shredded
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/2 pound macaroni

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a small bowl, mix the parmesan and bread crumbs and set aside.  Pour the milk and cottage cheese into a large bowl and blend them with a hand blender.   Add the remaining ingredients to the bowl with the milk mixture and mix it well to be sure that the macaroni is well integrated.  Pour the mixture into a buttered 9-by-13-inch baking pan and sprinkle the parmesan-bread crumb mixture over the top.  Cook for approximately 45 minutes, until the top is nicely browned.

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Black Calypso Beans with Sage

I keep hearing about Rancho Gordo beans.  The first time I read about them was in this post on one of my favorite cooking sites, 101 Cookbooks.  I checked out the website and was intrigued by the different varieties of heirloom beans.  I added "order Rancho Gordo beans" to my to do list.  I didn't get around to doing the actual ordering, but carried it over from list to list.  Then, a few weeks ago, I opened the New York Times magazine and saw that the entire recipe page was devoted to Rancho Gordo beans.  The article described how Steve Sando, Rancho Gordo's owner, came to be a bean collecter, and his quest to collect forgotten beans that had originated in the Americas.  It was a great article, but I think that the picture of Sando with his children eating a pot of beans is what really hooked me.  Hoping that my morning started earlier than that of most New Yorkers, I got right on line hoping to order my beans before they sold out.

So we all huddled around the computer and ordered beans.  Chloe chose some Santa Maria Pinquitos, Olivia chose the Yellow Indian Woman beans, and Oscar chose the Midnight Black Beans.  I think they all chose by the colors, which are quite appealing.  Throw in a few more that I wanted to try, like Borlotti frequently used in Italian minestrones, Flageolet which the French often serve with lamb, and the Vallarta that is the favorite of Thomas Keller from the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley, and we soon had ourselves a houseful of beans.  

The kids were eager to try them, and we first chose to make the Black Calypso beans.  I didn't want anything too complicated because I wanted to be able to taste the flavor of the bean.  The package said that these beans have a potato-y flavor and recommended trying them with sage.  That sounded perfect to me.

 
Well, now I see what all the fuss is about.  The beans were smooth and creamy, and they definitely had a potato flavor to them.  Their broth, especially cooked with the sage,  made an aromatic stew.  As Chloe so aptly put it after two bites, "These beans are delicious!"

The beans are dried, but because they are fresher than supermarket dried beans, they take less time to cook.  The flavor is also fresher.  If you don't use Rancho Gordo beans, pinto beans would make a reasonable substitute, or you may be able to find another interesting heirloom bean near you.

This recipe is very simple to make.  The preparation just requires chopping garlic, onion, and sage.  The beans could use a 6 hour or more soak, but if you haven't time for that, just factor some extra simmer time.  The beans retain their beautiful speckles throughout cooking, although the spots go from black to brown.

Black Calypso Beans with Sage

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time, plus soaking time
approximately 2 hours cooking time

1 pound Black Calypso Beans (or dried pinto beans)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 of a large onion, chopped (approximately 1 1/2 to 2 cups)
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons sage, chopped
2 teaspoons salt

Soak the beans for 6 or more hours in enough water to generously cover them, or bring them to a boil and let them simmer until tender (1-2 hours).

In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil, then add the onion and garlic and cook until they are soft, about 5 minutes.  Add the sage and cook for another 2 or 3 minutes.  Add the beans with their soaking/simmering water and let simmer until the beans are soft, at least 15 minutes.

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Rao's Meatballs

As promised, here is a recipe for spaghetti and real meat meatballs (as opposed to the vegetarian ones I posted last week) from my friend Laura.  Obviously, I haven't tried these, but I completely trust Laura's judgment because she is a great cook, a discerning eater, and creater of the wonderful blog, cherrypatter.  If you live in New York, find yourself up that way, or just love reading about the city, it is a great resource for places to eat, shop, or linger.  The text and photos are all Laura's.

I am excited to guest host on Margy’s fantastic blog Hide The Cheese, and I’m thrilled that she took me up on my offer to contribute some occasional meat-focused recipes. 

One of our family cold weather favorites is this recipe for super rich and tasty meatballs from the very famous, very exclusive restaurant called Rao’s located in Harlem that has been serving celebrities for ages.  A good friend of ours who is a great cook tipped me on to the recipe and I have been using it ever since.

What is particularly great about this recipe, in addition to how it tastes, is the opportunity for smooshing, mashing, oozing and squeezing.   Both of our kids love playing in the muck that becomes the meatballs.  Just recently, Simon, who is just two, helped out by sticking his fingers into the tomatoes that needed to be strained and broken up.   Now, his contribution was somewhat offset by the resulting mess of sauce down the table, the stool, his onesie and his legs but we had fun and quickly took a much needed bath. 

Katie, although she won’t touch these things once cooked (she is not the most adventuresome eater), loves mixing together the meats, cheese, egg and water mixture into a truly irresistible ball of gloop.  After the pile is thoroughly combined, she and I form the two-to-three inch meatballs, and then they are off to get fried, drained, and doused in some delicious tomato sauce. 

The meatballs are wonderful that first day, but they are also incredibly great keepers.  They keep in the fridge for about a week, and, as an added bonus, they freeze well too.  The amount of marinara sauce below is just enough, though we like lots of extra sauce so I have been doubling the amount.  I am sure there are plenty of tomato sauce recipes that would do the trick here, but I definitely would not modify the meatball recipe.  Be sure to get the pork, beef and the veal – it is the trio that really makes them extra special.  Also be sure to use pecorino romano (rather than just straight parmesan) and fresh bread crumbs (see my note below). 

Rao's Meatballs
Adapted very slightly from  Rao's Cookbook by Frank Pellegrino

Serves 6
30 minutes preparation time
1 hour cooking time

For the marinara sauce:
2 28-ounce cans imported Italian plum tomatoes with basil (preferably those labeled “san marzano”)
1/4 cup fine-quality olive oil
3 tablespoons minced onion
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
salt to taste
6 leaves fresh basil, torn
pinch dried oregano
pepper to taste

For the meatballs:
1 pound ground lean beef
1/2 pound ground veal
1/2 pound ground pork
2 large eggs
1 cup freshly grated pecorino romano cheese
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped parsley
2 cups fresh bread crumbs*
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup lukewarm water
1 cup fine-quality olive oil

1 pound spaghetti, optional

First, make the tomato sauce.  Place the tomatoes and their juice in a large bowl.  Using your hands, carefully crush the tomatoes.  To prevent major spills, gently remove and disard the hard core from the stem end and remove and discard any skin and tough membrane.  Set aside.

Put oil in a large, non reactive saucepan over medium-low heat.  Add the onion and sauté for 3 minutes or until translucent and just beginning to brown.  Stir in the garlic and sauté for 30 seconds or until just softened.  Stir in the tomatoes with their sauce and add the salt.  Raise the heat, and bring the sauce to a boil.  Immediately reduce the heat to a very low simmer and cook for at least one hour.  If you prefer a thicker sauce cook for another 15 minutes or even another hour.

Stir in the basil, oregano, and pepper and cook for an additional minute. 

While the sauce is cooking, make the meatballs.  Combine the beef, veal and pork in a large bowl.  Add the eggs, cheese, parsley, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste.  Using your hands, blend the ingredients together.  Mix the bread crumbs into the meat mixture.  Slowly add water until the mixture is moist.

Shape the meat mixture into balls (usually 2 ½ to 3 inch balls).  Heat the oil in a large sauté pan.  When the oil is very hot but not smoking, fry the meatballs in batches.  When the bottom half of  each meatball is very brown and slightly crisp turn it and cook the top half.  Remove the meatballs from the heat and drain them on paper towels.

Lower the cooked meatballs into the simmering marinara sauce and cook for at least 15 minutes.  Serve over pasta or on their own.

*My favorite way to make fresh bread crumbs is to buy a loaf of wheat, white or sourdough bread, cut off the outside, and then just put all the inside bits into the food processor for a minute or two.  Any extras can be kept in the freezer.

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Rosalyn's Trinidadian Chickpea and Potato Curry

I learned how to make this curry from our children’s babysitter, Rosalyn, who is from Trinidad.  It offers a wonderful balance of chewy chick peas with soft potatoes and the spices and herbs give the curry a robust, rich flavor. When I was cooking this dish most recently, Chloe closed her eyes, inhaled deeply and said softly, “It smells so good.”  The smell alone seemed to take her to a heavenly place.

Rosalyn has been cooking for so long that she doesn't measure anything.  To learn how to make this curry, I followed her around the kitchen, measuring and timing as she cooked.  I have now made the curry several times from this recipe and the children don't seem to notice that it's not Rosalyn's. If you can find a Trinidadian curry, use it, but a traditional Indian curry will also work well. The curry can be doubled or tripled for a large crowd and it can also be frozen for several weeks and thawed in a pan on the stove. 

The dish is traditionally served with Trinidadian roti, a recipe I previously posted here. Tortillas or pita are reasonable substitutes, or the curry may be served over rice. If you do use a flat bread, the meal is eaten by scooping up the curry with pieces of bread. No utensils are necessary. Our children love the flavors and the free pass to eat with their hands.

Rosalyn’s Trinidadian Chickpea and Potato Curry

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time, plus overnight for soaking beans
45 minutes cooking time

1 cup dried chickpeas (or 2 15-ounce cans, drained and rinsed)
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 small onion, diced
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons curry powder
2-3 tablespoons cold water
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped
1 scallion, sliced
2 sprigs fresh parsley, chopped
2 potatoes, peeled and cubed
11/2 cups boiling water
salt and pepper to taste
hot sauce for serving (optional)

If using dried chickpeas, soak them overnight.

In a medium pot, boil the chickpeas until they are tender, approximately 25 minutes, and drain them. Set a kettle of water to boil.

Heat the oil in a heavy stockpot, and add the onion and garlic. Sauté until soft, about 2-3 minutes. Mix the curry powder with the cold water, and add to the pot. Add the thyme, spring onion, and parsley. Cook until the sauce is thick. Add the potatoes and stir them to coat with the curry. Add the boiling water and cook until the potatoes are almost tender, approximately 20 minutes. Add additional hot water, if necessary, to maintain a simmer.

Mash a few potatoes against the side of the pot to thicken the sauce. Add the drained chickpeas and mix. Cook until the water cooks down, the potatoes and chickpeas are tender, and the sauce is thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. If you like spicy food, serve the mixture with hot sauce.

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Rosalyn's Trinidadian Roti

 

Our children’s babysitter, Rosalyn, is a fantastic cook.  She is from Trinidad and of Indian origin so her food is Indian with a Caribbean twist.  Our children grew up eating her cooking and they especially love this flatbread, called roti, which is different from Indian roti. The dough is a blend of wheat and white flours, and a split pea mixture is added before rolling the dough into its flat shape. The result is an aromatic, flavorful flatbread.

Our children help by mixing the dough, forming the dough into balls, filling the balls with the split peas, and using the rolling pin to roll them flat. If you are working alone, you can probably start cooking as soon as you have the first couple of roti rolled out.  It seems to take me about as long to cook a roti as to roll out two of them.  If you have children helping you, it will, of course, take a bit longer. 

If you have a large griddle, I recommend that you use it rather than a skillet and cook two or more roti at a time. It will greatly reduce your cooking time.  The split pea filling can be made a day ahead and kept in the refrigerator or frozen.  If you have leftover roti, those too can be frozen for several weeks.

Roti are the traditional accompaniment to curries in Trinidad. I will soon post a recipe for a chick pea and potato curry that our children love, but you can serve these with any curry, stew, or soup with similar flavors. I generally double this recipe so that we have leftovers.  These roti make a tasty and nutritious snack buttered, or with cottage cheese.

Rosalyn’s Trinidadian Roti

The first time you make this, you will only need half of the amount of filling, so cut the ingredients in half. Stuffing the filling is an art and it takes a while to be able to fully stuff the dough. After you have made the recipe a few times, you will find that you can stuff more in, and you may want to increase the amount as listed here.

Makes 8 roti
40 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

For the filling:
1/4 pound yellow split peas
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
2 teaspoons salt, divided
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin
2 garlic cloves, peeled

For the dough:
11/4 cups unbleached white flour
11/4 cups whole wheat flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 cup warm water
olive oil for brushing

Boil the split peas with the turmeric and 1 teaspoon of the salt until they soften but are still a bit crunchy to the bite, about 25 minutes. Drain them in a colander and let them cool to room temperature.

You can make the dough while the split peas are cooking or cooling. Mix the flours, baking powder, salt, oil, and warm water. The dough should come together but not be too sticky, like pizza dough. If needed, add a bit more warm water, one tablespoon at a time. When the dough has come together, cover and let rest for 10 or more minutes.

In a sauté pan, heat the cumin until it is fragrant and darkens in color, about 2 minutes. Set aside. When the split peas have cooled, grind them in a grinding mill or food processor with the garlic until they are the texture of coarse cornmeal. Mix in the cumin and remaining 1 teaspoon of salt and set aside.

Cut the dough into approximately 8 equal-sized pieces. Roll each piece into a ball. Form a bowl-shaped cavity in the dough, and fill the cavity with 3 or 4 tablespoons of the split pea mixture. It may initially seem difficult to fit that much of the mixture into the cavity, but mash it in with your thumb and continue to add more. Fold the sides of the dough and pinch it tightly to hold in the split pea mixture.

Heat a large skillet or griddle (the larger the cooking surface, the more roti you will be able to cook at once). On a lightly floured surface, roll out each ball of dough as thinly as you can.  Rosalyn makes them at least 8 inches in diameter, but I can’t always get them that big.  Don’t worry if some of the filling peeks through the dough.  It will be fine once you cook the roti. 

Lightly brush the roti with oil and sauté on each side until slightly browned, approximately 1-2 minutes per side.  Keep on a plate covered with a towel until ready to serve.

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Roasted Shallot and Buttercup Squash Soup

One of my favorite tastes of winter is a rich, thick winter squash soup. Soup in general is a wonderful thing when the air is cold and the sky is gray, but squash soups have the further benefit of adding a splash of color to the day. 

Our children can be reluctant to try a new soup, but they are more willing to try a dense soup, one that is almost a purée, rather than a thinner, broth-based soup. We saw these interesting buttercup squash at the farmer’s market and decided to use them for our soup. 

This recipe is very forgiving in terms of the ratio of the ingredients. If you have more or less squash or like a less garlicky soup, you can easily adjust the amounts to suit your needs.You could also substitute another squash with firm orange flesh, such as butternut squash or pumpkin. 

I decided to enhance the sweetness of the squash by roasting it along with shallots and garlic. Depending on the size of the squash, it can take a little while to roast, but the actual time you need to be in the kitchen working is minimal. And the roasting adds a depth of flavor that you don’t get with simmering or boiling. 

We topped the soup with a drizzle of sour cream and lime, forming the children’s initials to win them over to trying the soup. Heavy cream would be an equally tasty alternative.  The children all appreciated the letters and were eager to try it.  Two out of three even lapped up the entire bowl.

Roasted Shallot and Buttercup Squash Soup

Serves 5
20 minutes preparation time
60 minutes cooking time

3 medium buttercup squash, about 5 pounds
2-3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
5-6 shallots, whole with the peel on
5-6 garlic cloves, whole, with the peel on
1 2-inch by 1-inch sized piece of ginger, cut into 2 or 3 large pieces
1-2 vegetable bouillon cubes
salt and pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons sour cream (optional)
juice from one lime (optional)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Halve the squash and scoop out the seeds.  Brush the cut sides with a tablespoon or so of olive oil and place them face down on a baking sheet.  Place the shallots and garlic in the nooks around the squash and put the sheet in the oven.  Roast until the squash are tender and have browned, between 20 and 40 minutes, depending on the size of the squash.

Remove the squash from the oven, and let them cool enough so that you can handle them.  Scoop out the flesh of the squash from the skin and slip the garlic and shallots out of their skins. 

Heat the remaining oil in a soup pot, add the ginger and cook briefly, for 1-2 minutes.  Add the squash, shallots, and garlic along with any juices from the baking sheet. If necessary, use a bit of water to loosen any roasted pieces that cling to the sheet. Cover the squash with water and add the bouillon. Cook over medium heat for 15-20 minutes. Remove the ginger and purée the soup with an immersion blender.  Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed.

If you’d like to make the sour cream drizzle, put the sour cream and lime juice in a small bowl and whisk vigorously to eliminate lumps. Using a spoon or a small pitcher, drizzle the sour cream mixture over the soup in the design of your choice.

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Suppli

As promised, here is a recipe for leftover risotto (for a risotto recipe, see here). This little ball of wonder is one of our favorite treats. It is a small ball of fried risotto with hot, melted mozzarella inside. In Rome, suppli are found at the panificio alongside pizza bianca and various breads as a quick meal to have on the go -- Italian fast food. In some parts of Italy, suppli are called arancini and they can be stuffed with other things such as anchovies, prosciutto, or peas, but the idea is the same: a tasty bite of crisp risotto with a delicious surprise in the middle.

Suppli are best served piping hot, although we have made them in advance as nibbles for a party. We cooked them completely and froze them, then warmed them in the oven at 350 degrees for 15-20 minutes before serving. I admit that they were not quite as good as they would have been right out of the frying pan, but they were still delicious.

This is a great dish for children to help make.  They can scramble the eggs, mix the rice, roll the balls, and stuff them with the cheese.

You can make suppli with any kind of leftover risotto, but we usually use a plain risotto.  Be sure to taste the risotto before adding the other ingredients to make sure that it is flavorful and, if necessary, season it.  They really need a sufficient amount of salt to bring out their flavor.

Suppli

Makes about 15 suppli
25 minutes preparation time
20 minutes cooking time

2 cups bread crumbs
2 eggs, divided
3 cups pre-cooked risotto
salt to taste
1/8 cup mozzarella, cut into 1/4 to 1/2 inch cubes
Vegetable oil for frying

Pour the bread crumbs into a small shallow bowl.  In another bowl, lightly scramble one of the eggs. 

Pour the risotto into a medium bowl, taste it, and add salt if needed.  Add the remaining egg to the bowl, lightly scramble it and then stir it into the rice.

Using a tablespoon, scoop out some rice and shape it into a ball about the size of a golf ball.  Make an indentation in the ball with your thumb and add a piece of mozzarella. Using an additional bit of risotto, cover the mozzarella and roll it into a round shape again. Place the balls on a large plate or cookie sheet.

One at a time, roll each rice ball in the bowl with the egg and then in the bowl with the bread crumbs.  If needed, add more egg or breadcrumbs.  Put the prepared suppli on a cookie sheet.

Heat two inches of oil in a pan until it is hot.  Line a plate with newspaper and top it with a few paper towels.  To test the oil, drop in one grain of rice.  If it sizzles and starts to change color, the oil is ready.  Fry the suppli in the hot oil in batches, turning them until they are evenly golden brown.  It should take 2 to 4 minutes per batch.  Serve immediately.

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Black Bean and Monterey Jack Casserole

As with all families -- and maybe all cooks -- we have several meals that we make regularly because everybody in the family loves them. This casserole is one of those dishes.  Although it is a classic combination of rice and beans, the mild chilies give it a unique flavor.  We use brown rice because it adds a nice chewiness and, of course, is more nutritious than white rice.

It is comfort food at its best.

The casserole is easy to make ahead and refrigerate or freeze until you need it. Then you can relax while dinner cooks itself. We make it when we have other families over for dinner or to give to families who could use a hot meal to help get them through a rough week. If you do freeze the dish, it is dense so leave it in the refrigerator overnight to thaw or leave ample time – an hour or more – for it to cook.

If you use canned beans, you can do most of the preparation while the rice is cooking, making this a fairly quick dish to prepare.

The recipe is adapted from Ruth Reichl’s memoir, Tender at the Bone, a very entertaining read. She made it during her vegetarian days while she was living in Berkeley, California, and, although she seems to look on those days as the dark ages of her culinary development, this dish is delicious. 

Black Bean and Monterey Jack Casserole

Serves 6
1 hour preparation time, plus overnight for soaking beans
30–35 minutes baking time

1 cup dried black beans (or 2 15-ounce cans)
3 cups brown rice, uncooked
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 4-ounce can chopped green chilies
salt and pepper to taste
1 pound Monterey Jack cheese, shredded and divided
1 pound cottage cheese

If using dried beans, soak the beans overnight in water. Drain and cook the beans in fresh water for about 1 hour, or until tender. Set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Put the rice and 6 cups of water in a medium stock pot.  Bring the pot to a boil, reduce the heat, cover and simmer for 40-45 minutes. Let the rice cool slightly.

In a large bowl, mix the rice, beans, garlic, onion, and chilies. Taste, and add enough salt and pepper to bring out the flavors. 

Set aside 1/2 cup of the Monterey Jack cheese. Oil or butter a 9-by-13-inch pan. In the bottom of the pan, layer about a third of the rice and bean mixture. Then, add a layer each of the Monterey Jack and cottage cheeses. Add a second layer of the rice and bean mixture, then another layer of the cheeses, followed by a final layer of the rice and beans. Sprinkle the top with the reserved Monterey Jack cheese.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cheese is bubbly and golden.

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Banana Chocolate Chip Snack Cakes

I love banana bread, but my oldest daughter Olivia doesn’t like it at all.  When we recently had a bunch of bananas that had ripened past the point of perfection -- and far past the stage of ripeness that my kids will tolerate -- I wanted to create something different.

I hesitate to call the result a muffin because, to me, that suggests a denser concoction.  We could probably debate where the line falls between muffins and cupcakes, but these lie somewhere in between.  They are healthier than cake because they have a minimal amount of sugar, some whole wheat flour, and just enough chips to add a rich flavor and entice the children.  They are lighter than muffins, though, significantly airier than banana bread, and have a subtle banana flavor.

As with banana bread, the more ripe the bananas, the more flavor they add.  We used white whole wheat flour, but you could substitute either whole wheat or white flour.  We lined the muffin tins with cupcake liners because they are more fun, and they make the tins easier to clean.  The children helped mash the bananas, break up the nuts, mix the batter, line the muffin tins, and spoon the batter into the liners.  The nuts are optional.  We spooned half the batter without nuts into the cups, and then added half the amount of nuts before spooning in the remaining batter.

The children devoured these snack cakes.  My challenge has been letting the bananas ripen long enough so that I can make them more often.

Banana Chocolate Chip Snack Cakes

Makes 1 dozen snack cakes
20 minutes preparation time
20-25 minutes baking time

1 cup white whole wheat flour
1 cup unbleached white flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (approximately) bananas (about 2-3), mashed
4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) melted butter
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup chocolate chips
1/3 cup pecans or walnuts, broken into pieces (optional)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Line a 12-muffin pan with cupcake liners.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder and salt.  In a medium bowl, stir together the mashed banana, butter, sugars, and eggs.  Add the dry mixture to the banana mixture and mix until just moist.  Add the chocolate chips and nuts if you are using them.

Spoon the batter into the cupcake liners and bake until a toothpick comes out clean, 20-25 minutes.

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