Hide the cheese

Fig, Lemon, and Thyme Jam

I was standing in the late evening sun baking at a swim meet when I got Pam's text: "we have too many figs..." I offered to help her with that terrible problem and by the time I had gotten home there was a basket of figs waiting for me in front of the door. Woohoo!

I thought I'd make jam or a compote, but instead I put the basket into the refrigerator and just drew from the box whenever I needed a snack. Next thing I knew, there were only 2 left, not enough to make anything.

So when the phone rang and Lily offered me more figs, it only took me a second to process: I'm making raspberry jam now. I'm leaving town in three days. I have no time before I go to take on an additional project.

"Yes! I'd love some!"

Because I did want them.



I put the box immediately into the fridge and began eating them, but this time in my pre-vacation jam making frenzy I also made fig jam.

I had thought of adding lemon, but when I talked to Lily, she mentioned making jam with lemon and candied ginger. Yum!

Once I started cooking and added the lemon, though, I tasted the mixture and switched gears. I wanted something grassy or herby to counteract the sweet-tart of the fig and lemon combination. I had just enough thyme in the yard to make it work. The thyme is barely discernible, but it just grounds the flavors.

And I still have the lemon-ginger combination to look forward to next time.

Just before we left, I had a few not-yet-on-vacation folks over for a clean out the refrigerator dinner. We sampled my freshly made jams spooned over vanilla ice cream and, as good as the blueberry and raspberry jam were, this was the real star of the party.

Fig, Lemon, and Thyme Jam

The figs are thick enough that no pectin is needed to thicken the jam. I only added enough thyme to balance out the sweet-tart flavor of the lemon and figs; if you want more thyme flavor, double the amount. Putting Food by is my primary resource for canning but the Department of Agriculture's guidelines for canning are extremely thorough and will give you all you need to know to can safely.

Makes 5-6 12-ounce jars of jam
Approximately 1 hour preparation and cooking time

About 20 figs
4 cups granulated sugar
3 teaspoons lemon zest (about 2 lemons)
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice (2-3 lemons)
1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves

 

Put a couple of small plates in the refrigerator to chill.

Wash the figs and trim off their stems. Cut them into quarters. Put the figs into a stockpot and stir in the sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the sugar has completely dissolved. Mash the figs with a potato masher or, if you want to take a shortcut, use an immersion blender. Pulse the blender just a few times so that some of the fruit still remains chunky. Bring mixture to a simmer and let it cook for a 15 or so minutes to thicken.

The figs are not very watery so they should thicken up nicely. If you want to test the jam to be sure that it is thick enough, put a teaspoon of jam on one of the chilled plates. Return it to the refrigerator for one minute.  After a minute, remove it and tilt the plate.  Most of the preserves should remain in the center of the plate, while some of it -- especially the more liquid portion -- will slowly spread out towards the edge of the plate. 

Turn off the heat and add the lemon zest, juice, and thyme. Transfer to sterilized jars and preserve as desired.

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Potato and Dill Frittata

Summertime and the living is ... outside.

Our kids have been big into swim team this summer and so we have had lots of meals at the pool. I am always looking for something to take on the road and this frittata -- that I made for a tasting card for Black Ankle's last wine shipment -- fits the bill. The lighter, fresher flavors go along with the hotter summer weather. Frittatas are among those foods that are perfect for using up leftovers, though, so don't sweat it if you don't have all the ingredients. Just substitute whatever you have on hand.

If you are lucky enough to get your hands on a bottle, the frittata is delicious with either Black Ankle's Albarino or Passeggiata.

A toast: to summer!

2009: Smoky Deviled Eggs
2010: Red Wine Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Crostini
2011: Pea and Potato Gratins
2012: The Whole Beet Sauté

Potato and Dill Frittata

 

Serves 6
20 minutes preparation time
35-40 minutes cooking time

2 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into cubes
1 tablespoon olive oil
9 eggs
1/2 cup dill, finely chopped
1/2 cup chives, finely chopped
3 ounces herbed cheese such as Boursin (approximately half a Boursin package)
salt
freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Put the cubed potatoes in a small saucepan and cover them with water. Bring to a boil and let simmer until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork but still hold their shape, 6-8 minutes, depending on the size of the potato cubes. Drain into a colander and rinse with cold water to stop the cooking process.

In a large bowl, scramble the eggs and add the chives and dill. Add the potatoes, salt (at least a teaspoon) and pepper. Crumble in the Boursin and whisk again.

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a 9-inch frying pan with a heatproof handle. When the oil begins to simmer, carefully swirl it around the pan to completely coat the bottom and sides. Whisk the egg mixture once or twice to unsettle the herbs and cheese and then immediately pour the mixture into the hot pan. Reduce the heat to medium-low.

Cook until the edges of the frittata are set, about 10 minutes. Keeping the pan level, transfer it to the oven. Cook until the frittata is cooked through and lightly browned on top, about 15 minutes.

Remove and keep a pot holder or oven mitt over the handle. Slide a rubber spatula under the frittata and slip it out of the pan onto a serving plate. Serve immediately or at room temperature. The frittata will keep for a couple of days in the refrigerator.

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Cherry Dark Chocolate Chip Granola Bars

Do not adjust your TV set. This really is a post from Hide the Cheese.

I have been AWOL from this blog for so long that those of you that get my posts by e-mail may have wondered if there was something wrong with your feed.

As with most of you, I got caught up in that crazy end of the school year thing with concerts, awards ceremonies, and celebrations. And there was also the overlap of spring and summer sports that had us running to at least one game or practice almost every evening.

Mostly, though, all of the spare time that I used to spend writing here has been eaten up by the time I have spent trying to get our county school system to reverse its decision to change the schedule at our middle school. Although a schedule change may not seem like a big deal, that change was part of a plan that turned the school around a few years ago, and it has huge implications on students' ability to succeed, particularly students who need extra help or whose only opportunity to take a music or art elective is at school.

I have gotten a glimpse into the workings of our local system with its administrative and political pressures and it is not always pretty. Trying to effect change -- even with a large group of committed parents and community activists -- has given me some insight into what David was up against when he faced Goliath.

I can go on and on about that, but the real focus here is food. Once again, I am in search for the perfect snack. We were at a swim meet a couple of weeks ago, and the kids had veggie burgers before they swam. I watched them chow down on those burgers and thought that there was no way I would have been able to exercise after washing one of those down. 

The next week, I wanted to give them something lighter, something that would give them a bit of energy and not weigh them down. I remembered this recipe that had popped up in an e-mail from Food52. I had never made granola bars before, but this seemed like the perfect opportunity to give them a try.

I adapted the recipe to suit my audience. One child doesn't like peanut butter, one doesn't like raisins. And they all love chocolate. So I went with dried cherries and dark chocolate as the primary flavors.

The kids all tried them at last Wednesday's swim meet. Oscar was the most enthusiastic, probably because anything with chocolate will win him over. Olivia revealed that she doesn't like pumpkin seeds, but she is still eating the granola bars. Chloe announced that she doesn't like them at all, although she didn't identify any particular ingredient that was objectionable.  Regardless of the critiques, all three kids dropped times in their swim races.

I will continue to play with the flavors to see if I can win all three kids over, but for now I am loving having these little treats in the refrigerator for a quick breakfast or snack. And they will be in the swim bag again tonight.

2009: Mint Limeade
2010: Grilled Peaches with Mint Whipped Cream
2011: Sour Cherry Clafouti (make this now because sour cherry season is short!)
2012: Rose-Laced Strawberry Ice Cream

Cherry Dark Chocolate Chip Granola Bars

Adapted from Gena Hamshaw's recipe on Food52
Makes 12-15 bars
15 minutes preparation time, plus 2 hours for chilling

If you want to experiment with different flavor combinations, you might want to make a smaller batch. I recommend making half a batch and using a 8-by-8 square pan for your practice runs.

2 1/2 cups rolled oats
1 cup toasted pumpkin seeds
1/2 cup dried cherries
1/2 cup chocolate chips
2/3 cup sunflower butter
1/2 cup honey
1/4 teaspoon salt

Line a 9-by-13 pan with plastic wrap.

In a large bowl, whisk together the oats, pumpkin seeds, dried cherries, and chocolate chips.

In a large measuring cup, mix together the sunflower butter, honey, and salt. Pour the sunflower butter mixture over the oat mixture and stir with a wooden spoon until the oats are thoroughly coated.

Empty the mixture into the baking pan and flatten it out with a spatula until it is even. Cover with another layer of plastic wrap and chill in the refrigerator for at least two hours. Just before serving, cut into individual bars. I liked cutting them into fairly small servings, 2 or 3 inches per side. Wrap individual granola bars in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator. They will keep for up to 2 weeks, if they last that long.

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Sweet Potato and Maple After School Muffins

We're all bunkered down here waiting to see what hurricane Sandy brings. Schools and offices are closed, the cupboard is stocked, and the firewood is piled high. The winds are whipping aroung outside and we're as prepared as we can be to get thorough the inevitable loss of electricity.

While the power is still on and others in the house are occupied reading and doing homework, I'm sneaking a few minutes to share this recipe with you. It's another in my effort to make healthier after-school snacks for the kids.

Because sweet potatoes are in abundance this time of year and are reputedly one of the healthiest foods available, they seemed like a logical base for a muffin. I also used oat flour for its whole grain goodness and earthiness and olive oil as a healthier alternative to butter or canola oil.

To flavor the muffins, I used my favorite complement of fall spices, those that traditionally jazz up apple or pumpkin pies. But this time, I increased the nutmeg to bring that spice, which so often takes a back seat to cinnamon, up to the forefront.

I made the first batch of muffins with only maple syrup and although the kids gave them  a thumbs up, Gabe and I both thought they needed to be a bit sweeter. Interesting that we had more of a desire for that sweetness than the kids did, isn't it?

After about a day in the storage tin, something funny started to happen to the sweet potato in the muffins. It began to oxidize and those flecks of potato turned from a beautiful autumnal orange to blue and green. I don't know how to explain the science behind that change, but it was not at all appetizing.

When I made the muffins a second time, I tossed the sweet potato with a bit of lemon juice before adding it to the batter. That has done the trick and kept the sweet potato its original color even after cooking and a week of storage. I also added brown sugar to the second batch to make them a bit sweeter. We all did a blind taste test and agreed that the sweeter version was tastier.

If you're home bound, you oven still works, and you happen to have a sweet potato lying around, here's a lovely little snack that you can enjoy and still feel virtuous.

2009: Brown Sugar Cookies
2010: Dinner in a Pumpkin
2011: Caramel Apples

Sweet Potato and Maple After School Muffins

Makes about 18 muffins
approximately 20 minutes preparation time
25 minutes baking time

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 1/2 cups oat flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
2 teaspoons ground nutmeg
2 teaspoons baking soda
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup maple syrup
1/2 cup brown sugar, plus 3 tablespoons, divided
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 teaspoons vanilla
3 cups grated sweet potato (approximately 1 large sweet potato)
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease two muffin trays or line them with cupcake liners.

In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, oat flour, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and baking soda.

In a large measuring cup or small bowl, pour the lemon juice over the shredded sweet potato and stir to completely coat. In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, maple syrup, 1/2 cup of brown sugar, eggs, and vanilla. Add the shredded sweet potato and mix thoroughly. Add the dry ingredients and stir with a wooden spoon just until the dry ingredients have been evenly incorporated.

Spoon into the muffin tins. Sprinkle the remaining brown sugar over the tops of the muffins.

Bake for about 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cook for a couple of minutes in the pan, then turn onto a baking rack to cool.

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Perfectly Soft-Boiled Eggs, Take 2

Remember that post I did about making perfecly soft-boiled eggs?

Ignore it.

Something wonderful happened, you see, and now I have a new favorite, fool-proof way of making soft-boiled eggs.

One of you, kind readers, left me a comment, explaining your mother's way of making soft-boiled eggs. It is super simple and it works every time. And, best of all, it doesn't require much attention at all. Just plunk those eggs in a pot full of water, turn a timer and that's it. I just had to share.

So, thank you, Livy, for reading and for sharing this tip. And thanks to your mom, too!

Perfectly Soft-Boiled Eggs, Take 2

In Livy's comments, she notes that gas stoves seem to cook more quickly than electric and she removes the egg 30 seconds sooner when cooking with gas. I have gas and 10 minutes has worked on my stove. The edge of the yolk is firm but the center is still soft. Given the variety in stoves and personal preferences, though, it may take a bit of fiddling with the exact timing to get the perfect egg.

Fill a pot with cold water.

Add the egg(s)s and place the pot, uncovered, on a burner over high heat. Start a timer for 10 minutes.

When the timer goes off, remove the pot from the heat, drain the water, and fill the pot again with cold water. Let the eggs sit for 30 seconds or so until they are cool enough to handle. Put in the egg in an egg cup and serve.

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Black and Blue Berry Buckle

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes.

One, two,
Buckle my shoe;
Three, four,
Shut the door;
Five, six,
Pick up sticks;
Seven, eight,
Lay them straight;
Nine, ten,
Do it again.

That was my version, but as with so many nursery rhymes, there seem to be many variations that have evolved over the years. Wikipedia gives this one:

One, two,
Buckle my shoe;
Three, four,
Knock at the door;
Five, six,
Pick up sticks;
Seven, eight,
Lay them straight;
Nine, ten,
A big fat hen;
Eleven, twelve,
Dig and delve;
Thirteen, fourteen,
Maids a courtin';
Fifteen, sixteen,
Maids in the kitchen;
Seventeen, eighteen,
Maids a waiting;
Nineteen, twenty,
My plate's empty.

"Eleven-twelve, dig and delve" sounds familiar, but I couldn't square that with "do it again," which led us to restart the entire rhyme. I don't ever remember getting beyond twelve. I wonder how long it took me to learn how to count to thirteen.

Buckle, slump, crisp, cobbler, grunt, pandowdy. There are many intriguing dessert names. Buckle is a moist, fruit-laden cake with a streusel topping. It is often made with berries, and this version uses both blackberries and blueberries because that is what I had on hand. The sweetness of the blueberries was excellent with the muskiness of the blackberries, but any berry would do.

In addition to their general deliciousness, another great thing about berries is that they require very little preparation. There is no peeling or pitting. It's just a quick rinse and go. The cake is easy to throw together so it's perfect for a weeknight dessert. Or breakfast for that matter.

2009: Peach, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad
2010: Blackberry-Ginger Jam
2011: Cantaloupe Agua Fresca

Black and Blue Berry Buckle
Adapted from Gourmet

Serves 8 to 10
35 minutes preparation time
approximately 60 minutes baking time

For the topping:
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon lime zest (from 1 to 2 limes)
4 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into about 10 pieces

For the batter:
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs
3 cups berries
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt

vanilla ice cream for serving (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan.

To make the topping, in a small bowl, mix the brown sugar, flour, and lime zest together with a fork. Add the butter and work it into the flour with your fingers, until the mixture ranges in size from grains of sand to small pebbles. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add the vanilla and then the eggs one at a time, beating for a few seconds after each egg.

In a measuring cup or small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add it to the sugar-butter mixture all at once, and beat until it is just combined. Gently fold in the berries with a rubber spatula.

Pour the batter into the cake pan and level it with the spatula. Sprinkle the streusel over the top. Bake until a toothpick comes out clean, 55 to 60 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Rhubarb-Grapefruit Jam

Ricky and Lucy. Gracie and George. Tom and Jerry. Felix and Oscar. Sonny and Cher. Donny and Marie.

Unlikely pairs that make magic together. (Ok, maybe they weren't all magic, but they were all entertaining).

Rhubarb and grapefruit may seem like an odd couple, too, but they are delicious together. The rhubarb is tart right off the bat, hitting immediately with an intense burst of flavor. The grapefruit hangs back and as soon as the rhubarb begins to retreat, it comes on with its bitter flavor. Of course it is all mellowed by the sugar in the jam, but the combination is excellent.

I like it spread on toast or swirled into yogurt. The rhubarb flavor isn't super assertive so it didn't stand up to the peanut butter in a sandwich.

Now Gabe is feeding me more names. Abbott and Costello. Mary Matlin and James Carville. Padma Lakshmi and Salman Rushdie. . .

2009: Rhubarb-Thyme Compote
2010: Rhubarb-Mint Popsicles
2011: Rhurbarb-Apple Turnovers

Rhubarb-Grapefruit Jam

Makes about 4 cups of jam
10 minutes preparation time
about 30 minutes cookig time

I use about 4 tablespoons of grapefruit juice for each cup of finished jam. It may seem like a lot, but the grapefruit flavor mellows over time.

8 cups diced rhubarb (about a pound and a half)
3 cups sugar
1/2 cup fresh grapefruit juice (from about 1 grapefruit)

Mix the rhubarb and sugar in a medium-sized sauce pan. Cover the pot and cook over medium-low heat until the rhubarb begins to release its juices, about five minutes. Remove the lid and cook the jam until the rhubarb is meltingly soft and has thickened, about 25 minutes. Stir in the grapefruit juice.

Pour the jam into airtight jars for short-term storage or can them if you want to keep them longer. (For some links about canning see this post).

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Perfectly Soft-Boiled Eggs

[I've updated my technique for making perfect soft-boiled eggs here. ~ Margy 10-05-12.]

We've been duped.

A few years ago, we thought we had found the perfect little bakery-restaurant for breakfast in New York: excellent coffees, dark hot chocolates, shatteringly crisp croissants, perfect soft-boiled eggs. It became part of our routine, and our breakfasts there were always an auspicious way to start our days of walking and sightseeing.

But it turns out that our ideal breakfast spot is not the independent corner bakery that we thought we had so cleverly discovered. No, it turns out that it is in fact an international chain, Le Pain Quotidien. Sigh.

It was a letdown at first, to be sure. As Olivia said, "I liked it better when it was somewhere special that we went only when we were in New York."

But now I'm getting used to the idea. A few have opened in the D.C. area, in Georgetown, Bethesda, and Alexandria. It's been convenient to have them closer to home and the quality is still excellent. It makes the world a smaller place, too, to know that from Mexico to India and Australia to Abu Dhabi, children are stirring that dark chocolate into steamed milk and cracking open a soft boiled egg.

Also, I owe PQ a debt of gratitude for getting my children hooked on soft-boiled eggs. They love dipping their strips of toast into the soft yolk, and it's a quick enough breakfast to make that they can have them before school.

It also has gotten me to continue my obsession with making perfect eggs. A perfect soft-boiled egg should have a firm white but a soft, runny yolk. As we have tried to master the perfect egg at home, we have eaten many hard boiled eggs that we had hoped would be soft and even the occasional way-too-soft-egg with a white that was still runny. Blech.

The timing is tricky. Some recipes say to boil them for a certain number of minutes, but it's always been unclear to me when you begin timing. Is it from the time the first bubbles appear or sometime after that? And dropping an egg into already boiling water invariable results in a cracked shell with some of the white leaking out in an unappealing way.

If PQ can churn out millions of perfect eggs around the world, surely I should be able to make one in my kitchen.

The key, I think, is to watch the water as it begins to boil. (Forget everything you've ever heard about watched pots.) Ignore the tiny bubbles that cling to the eggs almost as soon as you turn on the heat and, instead, look for larger bubbles begin to bubble up from the bottom of the pot. That's when to begin timing.

Start watching

Not quite yet

Now!

I don't know how PQ does it without a cadre of pot watchers, but maybe someday I'll find out. In the meantime, we're having perfect eggs, every time. Now I'm wondering whether we could throw in some natural dyes to color the outside of the eggs for Easter. . .

2009: Natural Egg Dyes with Botanic Prints
2010: Tissue Paper Easter Eggs
2011: Flourless Chocolate Cake with Blood Orange Sauce

Perfectly Soft-boiled Eggs

Since I wrote this post, I discovered (thanks to one of my clever readers) an even easier way to make perfect soft boiled eggs. Read about it here.

Serves 5
About 10 minutes cooking and preparation time

5 large eggs
3 pieces sliced bread
butter for the toast
salt and pepper to taste

Place eggs in a pot of water deep enough to submerge the eggs. Put the pot over high heat. Once small bubbles appear, clinging to the eggs and the side of the pot, watch the pot carefully. As soon as a larger bubble -- about the size of a pea -- bubbles up from the bottom of the pot, set the timer for 4 minutes. Turn the heat down to medium. The water should continue to boil, but not violently.

Stay in the kitchen. Make the toast, butter it, and slice it into long strips. When the timer goes off, remove the eggs from the heat and run them under cold water for a few seconds. Serve immediately. 

To crack the eggs open, use a spoon to crack the shell all the way around the circumference of the egg about one-third down from the top (how many degrees latitude would that be?). Use the spoon to lift off the top. Scoop the egg out of the top, season it, and eat it. Salt and pepper the remaining egg, dip strips of toast into the egg yolk, and then scoop out the rest of the egg with a spoon.

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Autumn Granola

Before we started our construction, I went through a flurry of cooking. I was freaked out by the idea of not being able to cook for so long and I wanted to make sure that we had a stash of some of our staples. We were completely out of granola, so a new batch was high on my list. We still are fans of that almond granola, but now that the weather has cooled and leaves are crunching under our feet, I wanted something that felt more like the season.

The spices that resonate most with me this time of year are those that seem to carry heat in their flavors--cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves. They are the same spices that infuse a chai latte or pumpkin pie. Pecans seemed like the nut most appropriate to the season, maybe because I had pecan pie somewhere in the back of my mind, and, of course, I had to throw in some pumpkin seeds. The result is not wildly different from our old favorite, but it has satisfied that urge for something more autumnal.

I made a double batch so we have a nice, big stash. I don't think it will quite get us to the end of the construction process, but it sure is nice to have some homemade treats along the way.

Second Helping: Brown Sugar Cookies
Thirds: Lavender-Cheddar Muffins

Autumn Granola

Makes about 6 cups
15 minutes preparation time
1 hour baking time

3/4 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/3 cup water
3 1/2 cups rolled oats
1 1/2 cups whole pecans
1 cup pumpkin seeds
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1/2 cup sunflower seeds
1/2 cup raisins or other dried fruit

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

In a small pot, mix together the brown sugar, maple syrup, spices, salt, vanilla, olive oil, and water.  Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and set the mixture aside.

In a large bowl, mix the oats, pecans, pumpkin seeds, sesame seeds, and sunflower seeds.  Pour the maple syrup mixture into the bowl and mix thoroughly so that the oats and nuts are completely coated.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.  Pour the granola onto the sheets and spread it out evenly into a single layer.  Bake for about 50 minutes, watching to make sure that the pecans do not get too dark.  About half way through, remove each tray and gently push the granola around the tray to break up any clumps.

Remove the granola from the oven and let it come to room temperature on the baking sheets, then add the raisins. The granola will keep for several weeks in an airtight container.

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Soft Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes, Herbs, and Sour Cream

Over time, we've developed a yen for soft scrambled eggs, eggs that are cooked just until the yolks and whites are fully cooked, but no longer. Perfectly done, they are tender and moist and not the least bit dry. Our trip to Paris, during which we had the most excellent scrambled eggs, sealed the deal for us.

Even though eggs are the most basic of foods, I find cooking them perfectly to be a challenge. When Olivia and ate brunch at Prune on our trip to New York, the eggs were perfect. My omelet was cooked completely and the outside was firm but not at all dry while the inside was still a bit runny. And Olivia's scrambled eggs were perfectly soft. I was impressed and renewed my determination to master the art of the perfect egg. First up, the soft scramble.

The key, Gabe read in Julia Child's My Life in France, is not to heat the pan too hot. Also, keep stirring them while they cook and remove them from the heat before they are completely cooked because they will continue to cook even after the pan is off the heat.

We often eat our scrambled eggs plain, but from time to time we also throw in extras like a bit of cheese, scallions, pesto, whatever is on hand. One of my favorite combinations is herbs and sour cream. A perfect little breakfast, right at home.

Soft Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes, Herbs, and Sour Cream

Serves 6
15-20 minutes preparation and cooking time

2 tablespoons butter
1 dozen eggs
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
1/4 cup fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, basil, tarragon, and/or thyme, chopped
1/4 cup sour cream

Heat a large saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the butter and swirl it around until it melts and completely coats the sides and bottom of the pan.

Add the eggs all at once. If the pan is the right temperature, there won't be any sizzle when the eggs hit the pan. Stir immediately with a wooden spoon. Continue to cook the eggs over medium-low heat, stirring constantly until they are almost completely cooked but are still shiny and moist. Remove them from the heat before they are completely cooked, because they will continue to cook in the hot pan. Add the herbs and tomatoes and stir again.

Serve immediately onto warmed plates and top each serving with a dollop of sour cream.

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Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata

 
I am feeling completely stuck in winter. The calendar says it is spring. Some days it even looks like spring, at least from the inside looking out. But other days, the forecasters are talking of more snow (!) and, once outside, I feel the chill of winter hanging on.

In my head, I'm ready to move on from the heartier dishes of winter, all those soups and stews, but on a cold night, they still provide comfort. This weather has me in food limbo!

We all need something that can bridge the seasons, and this frittata does the trick. Leeks are able to travel between the seasons nicely, offering a heartiness to the soups of winter, but also adding freshness to spring dishes. This frittata features those leeks front and center, throwing in some tangy goat cheese along with the eggs. Eggs, symbols of new life, always make me think of spring. And chickens begin to produce more bountifully now that the days are getting longer. 

We most often have this frittata for dinner, but it would also be excellent for brunch or lunch. And it's good hot or at room temperature. As the days warm up, I might even take it on a picnic.

A girl can dream, can't she?

Second Helping: Cacio e Pepe
Thirds: Creamy Turnip Slaw

Leek and Goat Cheese Frittata 

Serves 5
15 minutes preparation time
40 minutes cooking time

2 large leeks (about 3 cups sliced)
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons of olive oil, divided
8 eggs
1 cup parmesan
5 ounces goat cheese
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Slice the dark green tops off the leeks and discard them (or save them for stock), keeping only the white and light green parts. Slice the leeks lengthwise and then across into half moon slices. Rinse the slices in a colander, shaking the leeks with your hands to ensure that any soil rinses away.

Heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat in a large, ovenproof sauté pan. Add the leeks and sauté them for a few minutes until they soften. Stir the leeks and cover the pan, cooking until the leeks are quite soft, another 7 or so minutes.

While the leeks are cooking, scramble the eggs in a medium-sized bowl. Add the parmesan, goat cheese, salt, and pepper. When the leeks are done, transfer them to a small bowl. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel.

Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat and swirl it around the pan so that it covers the sides as well as the bottom of the pan.

Add the leeks to the egg bowl and whisk them together immedediately. Add the egg mixture to the pan and lower the heat to medium. Cook on the stove top until the edges of the frittata have set. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook it until the center of the frittata is firm and it is golden brown.

Carefully remove the pan from the oven. Remember that the handle is hot! Run a rubber spatula around the sides of the pan. Place the pan next to the serving dish and carefully lift the frittata and slide it onto the plate. Serve hot or at room temperature.

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Airy Apple Cake

Sometimes a homey, tasty cake is just what you need. In fact, cake almost always has the power to improve ones outlook on life. In any event, the only thing it can hurt is the waistline, and I'm not going to start worrying about that after all these years.

This cake offers just that type of comfort. The apples are first spooned into the baking pan and topped with a batter that covers the apples and surrounds them with light fluffy cake. The result is an airy spiced cake with a sprinkle of crunchy sweetness on the top. Dressed up on fancy plate with a scoop of ice cream it makes an excellent seasonal dessert. Wrapped in a napkin, it would make a perfect snack on the run. Some have even been known to have a slice for breakfast.

Dicing apples.
The first time I made this cake, Chloe looked at me with wonder. She had just been singing "An Apple for an Apple Cake" with the Revels. I believe the song was based on a story by Nienke Van Hichtum in which an old woman plans to make an apple cake but doesn't have any apples. She sets out to find some and shares her generosity along the way. It is a lovely story, and Chloe was delighted that I was actually making an apple cake at home. Sometimes things just work out that way. Especially when cake is involved.

Second Helping: Pear and Almond Cake

Dig in!

Airy Apple Cake

To prepare the apples:
3-4 firm apples, ideally a mix of varieties, peeled, cored, and cut into bite-sized pieces
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

To make the cake:
1 cup unbleached white flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, divided
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 teaspoons orange zest
1/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2-quart baking dish.

Pour the apples into the baking dish and mix them with the butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Set aside while you mix the cake.

In a small bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a mixer, beat the butter and 3/4 cup of the sugar until light. Add the egg, vanilla, and orange zest and mix again. Add half of the flour mixture, the milk, and then the remaining half of the flour mixture, mixing each time until just combined. Pour the batter over the apples and spread it so that it covers them evenly.

Mix the remaining sugar and cinnamon together in a small bowl. Sprinkle it over the top.  Bake  the cake for 35-40 minutes, until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm or cooled directly from the baking dish.

Jobs for children: Children can peel the apples, zest the orange, and mix. At the end, children can also sprinkle the cinnamon sugar on top. To make it come out more evenly, put the cinnamon-sugar mixture in a clean spice bottle so that not too much comes out with any one shake. Older children can also dice apples.

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Leftover Mashed Potato Pancakes

My sister and her husband brought the mashed potatoes on Thanksgiving. They went through all the work of peeling potatoes for 16 of us, cooking, mashing, and adding whatever secret ingredients they mixed in to make them taste delicious.

But they made one crucial error. They left their pot -- complete with the leftover mashed potatoes -- at my house when they left for the night. I know that the polite thing to do would have been to take them over to their house or at least call before I used them up. But I didn't do the polite thing. Instead, I happily cooked them up into some yummy potato pancakes.

Mashing the potatoes and forming them into pancakes.
These pancakes would be perfect for brunch, as a side dish, or even as the base of a quick meal. Served with a fried egg on top and some leftover Brussels sprouts, they made an excellent little lunch.

There is a wide variety of things that you can add to the mashed potatoes to make these pancakes. I added red onion, parsley, and rosemary because that's what I had on hand. But any combination of a member of the onion family with some fresh herbs would work. You could also add cheese. I debated adding some grated parmesan, but because I made these in the shadow of a huge Thanksgiving meal, I decided to skip it.

In case you are lucky enough to still have some mashed potatoes in your refrigerator, here's what I did.

Second Helping: Caldo Verde (Portugese Kale and Potato Soup)A quick supper.

Leftover Mashed Potato Pancakes

Makes approximately 8 pancakes
15 minutes preparation time
10 minutes cooking time

2 cups mashed potatoes
1 egg
2 tablespoons minced red onion or scallions
2 tablespoons minced fresh herbs, such as parsley, chives, rosemary, and/or sage
salt and pepper to taste
Canola oil for frying

With a fork or masher, mash the potatoes in a medium-sized bowl. Taste for seasoning. Add the egg, red onion, herbs, and, if you like some salt and pepper. Form the mixture into 2-3 inch pancakes.

Heat a large non-stick skillet or griddle over medium-high heat and brush it with canola oil. Cook the pancakes until they are golden brown, turning once, about 2-3 minutes per side.

Kids can help mash potatoes, mix ingredients together, and form the pancakes. Older children can also chop onions and herbs.

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Hide the Cheese Lavender-Cheddar Muffins

We had a busy, fantastic, fun weekend. Along with Halloween and visits from some of our favorite people on the planet, we had a bash for my birthday, complete with a band whose services we had bought at the Acorn Hill silent auction. It was such a treat to have the house filled with music, and even better to have that music enhanced by the sounds of conversation and laughter. A big, noisy party does me good.

Of course there was food. We made a large version of the Dinner in a Pumpkin, some frittatas, noodles, a grilled veggie platter, Grilled Eggplant Baba Ganoush, and a red pepper-feta dip. Friends and family filled in the gaps with fried plantains, spinach fritters, fresh veggies, and black bean sliders. For desserts, we made Oscar's crowd-pleasing brownies along with pecan bars and red velvet and carrot cupcakes that our super babysitter made as part of her cupcake business. I will have some of those recipes to write up for you soon.

Grating cheese and mixing the batter.
In addition to the food that we served, there were a couple of dishes I planned to make that I didn't get finished, including these savory muffins. A while back, Oscar declared, "Mom, you should make Hide the Cheese muffins!" We are fans of Alice Waters' Hide and Seek Muffins from Franny at Chez Panisse, and aparently he thought we should have our own Hide the Cheese version. The idea of a savory muffin had been rattling around in my head anyway, because I thought they would be the perfect nibble to accompany a drink. I loved the idea.

Cubing the cheese and hiding it.

I tested this recipe out a couple of weeks before the party thinking I could make them in advance and freeze them. They were a big hit around here, though, and after everyone ate their fill, there were none left to freeze. I never got around to making more for the party, so now I'll think of these as my woulda, coulda, shoulda muffins. I think they make an excellent snack and would be delicious on the Thanksgiving table or at brunch. If I get enough of these recipes together, it just may be the excuse I need to have another party.

Second Helping: Pumpkin Cupcakes with Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting

Hide the Cheese Lavender-Cheddar Muffins

When I made these muffins, I did not completely submerge the cheese cubes with batter, and the result was that the cheese bubbled up and coated the top of the muffins. They were delicious that way, but when I make them again, I will try topping some of the cheese cubes with batter to see if I get a gooey, cheesy center. I'll update this post once I've given it another go.

Makes 10-12 muffins
20 minutes preparation time
20-25 minutes baking time

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup white whole wheat flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried lavender
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup milk
1 1/4 cups grated cheddar
12 small cubes of cheddar (mine were about 1/2-inch cubes)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and oil a standard 12-cup muffin tin (or line it with cupcake liners)

Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt and lavender together in a small bowl. Add the egg, milk and grated cheese, and mix just until all of the flour mixture has been incorporated. The batter will be stiff and quite lumpy.

Spoon the batter into the cups of a muffin tin, filling each cup about two-thirds full. Push one cube of cheese into each muffin. The batter will come up around the sides of the cheese cube but will not quite swallow it.

Bake until a toothpick comes out clean (don't put it in the center where the cheese is), about 20 to 25 minutes. The muffins are best served warm.

Jobs for children: Children can help grate cheese, measure, mix, grease or line muffin tins, and, of course, hide the cheese.

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Triple Ginger Zucchini Bread (or Muffins)

Apparently I have become obsessed with zucchini this year. We have eaten tons of tomatoes, peaches, corn, and all manner of other wonderful summer produce, but this is the third time that I am writing about zucchini this summer. (In case you have blocked out the others, do Zucchini and Brown Butter Spaghetti and Grilled Zucchini Summer Sandwiches ring a bell?) Evidently I'm in a zucchini state of mind.

For those of you who don't like zucchini or are just plain sick of it, my apologies. Then again, maybe you are the audience that most needs this recipe. Because zucchini bread isn't really about a love of zucchini, is it? It's more about disguising something that you have had enough of in a way that it is still appealing. And it is about making the most of those gigantic steroid squashes that are so bountiful this time of year.

When I was plotting my strategy for using up our stash of zucchini this summer, I knew that I wanted to modify my standard zucchini bread recipe to jazz it up a bit. I love the cinnamon flavor profile of my traditional recipe, but I have eaten so many of those loaves and muffins over the year that I wanted something new. New and different, but not too new and different. I am, after all, cooking for clientele under five feet (but not for long!) that doesn't always like change. So there I was again, walking the tightrope between pushing the flavor in a new direction and bringing the kids along for the ride. I thought about adding lemon, but as I reached for the lemon in the fruit bin in my refrigerator, I saw something even better lying next to it. Ginger!

I added fresh ginger as well as candied ginger and powdered ginger. The result is a zucchini bread studded with flecks of golden ginger and enhanced with its sweet-spicy flavor. I loved it, and for the most part, the children did too. Chloe wrinkled her nose, but she ate most of it, and even a few cousins gave it a thumbs up. I still have one more giant zucchini in the refrigerator and a stash of muffins and bread in the freezer. Bountiful harvest!

Second Helping: Zuccanoes (yes, more zucchini!)

Triple Ginger Zucchini Bread

As noted, because I made this version for a broad audience, I didn't go too crazy with the ginger, and it is very good as written. If I were making it for myself, though, I would add another half teaspoon of fresh ginger and an additional quarter cup of candied ginger. Just because I could.

1 cup white whole wheat flour
1 cup unbleached white flour
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 cup sugar
2/3 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon vanilla
2 cups raw, grated zucchini
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
1/3 cup candied ginger, minced
1/2 cup walnuts (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a standard loaf pan or 12-cup muffin tin (or use cupcake liners for easier clean up and prettier muffins).

In a small bowl, whisk together the flours, cinnamon, ground ginger, baking soda, baking powder, and salt.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs until they are fluffy. Add the sugar, canola oil, and vanilla, and mix until they are thoroughly combined. Add the zucchini and fresh ginger and mix again.

Add the dry ingredients to the zucchini mixture and mix until the ingredients are just combined and there are no spots of dry flour. Add the candied ginger and walnuts, if you are using them, and mix briefly.

Pour the batter into the loaf pan or muffin tin (fill each cup no more than two-thirds full so that they will rise nicely). Bake the bread for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes or the muffins for 30 to 35 minutes. In either case, they are done when a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

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Blackberry-Ginger Jam and a Respite

Along with that flat of raspberries, we picked a second flat and a couple of smaller flats of blackberries. We went on one of those hundred-plus degree days that we have had so many of in Washington this summer. With work and camp schedules, we didn't have much of a choice of days, but we went out early to avoid the worst of it. After about 10 minutes, Gabe looked at me and I could tell that he was ready to cash it in. Honestly, I was too, and I usually have the strongest incentive to keep at it because I have a head full of ideas of things to make with our haul.  But the children were so bouyed with excitement while they were picking that it lifted us, too. They seem to have much more enthusiasm for picking at Larriland than they do at our own farm garden. I'm not sure why that is, but it was just what Gabe and I needed on that morning. 

By now I have turned almost all of the berries into jam; those that are left we are eating on cereal or with granola and yogurt. Such an excellent summer treat.

I stayed fairly traditional with my preserving because this was my first year making raspberry and blackberry jam. But I did make a couple of batches of blackberry ginger jam and I love the way it turned out. The jam has the winey sweetness of the blackberries along with the slight heat and perkiness of the ginger. 

We made several jars of strawberry jam at the beginning of the summer, but we have eating through them voraciously. Now we have many more jars (I think the kids counted 19 of varying sizes) to add the larder. I'm hoping they last us at least a few months. I'm such a fan of having a taste of summer in the middle of a cold, cold, day.

And now that the jars are put up, I'm feeling a need for a bit of putting up myself. I'll be taking a break from the blog for at least a couple of weeks to enjoy some time with my family and to relax and recharge. I hope to spend a lot of time in the lake, and a bit of time running around it. But mostly I want to spend time staring at it, letting it work its magic on me. After a few days, I know that the relaxation will seep into my bones, and I hope that I can take it with me into the busy autumn months to come. 

I will buzz into New York to attend the BlogHer conference this coming weekend. Now that I've been blogging for just over a year, I feel the need for a bit of thinking about what I want to get out of this blogging experience. I have loved it, but it does take a lot of time and energy, and I think a bit of contemplation about what I want to accomplish in the long run will be a good thing for me. I'm hoping that talking to lots of other bloggers at BlogHer will help me focus my thoughts.

I hope that you all have a very happy and peaceful August, and I look forward to reconnecting soon.

Blackberry-Ginger Jam

If you are canning the jams for storage, please see this earlier post for some helpful references. I have also found Putting Food By to be an extremely valuable practical resource.

Makes about 6 cups
10 minutes preparation time
about 20 minutes cooking time

8 cups blackberries
4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons minced fresh ginger

Put a plate in the refrigerator to chill.

Mash all the ingredients together in a large stockpot. Bring it to a boil and boil until it thickens, about 20 minutes.

To test to see if the jam will set, put a teaspoon of jam on one of the chilled plates and return it to the refrigerator for one minute.  After a minute, remove it and tilt the plate.  Most of the preserves should remain in the center of the plate, while some of it -- especially the more liquid portion -- will slowly spread out towards the edge of the plate.  When the preserves have firmed up to this extent, skim off a bit of the foam if there is any, stir in the rest, and transfer the jam into storage jars.

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Monday Rhubarb Streusel Cake

Sometimes you just need a little cake, a little just-because cake.  You know, like a just-because-I-had-the day-off-and-felt-like-baking cake.  Or just-because-it's-Wednesday-and-we're-half-way-through-the-week-cake.  Or just-becase-we're-all-home-for-dinner-with-nowhere-to-rush-to-or-from cake.  Or one of my favorites, just-because-it's-Monday cake.

In general, we try to eat healthy foods, a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, whole grains, and not too many sweets.  But treats are one of the great joys of childhood.  If we weren't meant to have a bit of butter and refined sugar in our lives then why do they taste so darn good together?  OK, I know that's riduculous reasoning, but what could be better than biting into a lovingly homemade treat?  That's got to count for something in the health department.  Right?

 
In that spirit, then, here is a recipe for one of those perfect just-because cakes.  It's not at all fancy, just homey and rustic.  It could be dessert, a snack or, if you really need a pick me up on Monday morning, breakfast.  And with rhubarb in season, this is the perfect time to make it.  

Happy Monday.

Second Helping:  Rhubarb-Thyme Compote

Monday Rhubarb Streusel Cake

The rhubarb in this cake is not agressive; it adds a tartness to contrast with the sweetness of the streusel, but it's not overpowering.  If you want a more assertive flavor, add more rhubarb, more lemon, or both.

2 cups diced rhubarb
1/3 cup sugar
zest from one lemon (about 2 teaspoons)
juice from 1 lemon (about 1 tablespoon)

For the topping:
3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
4 tablespoons butter

For the cake:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
4 tablespoons butter, softened 
3/4 cup granulated sugar

Place the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Butter and flour an 8-inch square baking pan, making sure to shake out any excess flour.  I usually do this by turning it upside down over my sink and gently tapping it on the top of my faucet.  But then again my faucet has begun to leak, so mayber a whack with the heel of your hand would be better.

In a small bowl, stir together the rhubarb, sugar, lemon juice, and lemon zest.  Set aside.

Make the streusel topping by whisking together the flour and sugars.  With your hands, work in the pieces of butter by pinching them repeatedly until they incorporate into the flour and form large clumps.  Set aside.

To make the cake, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl. In another small bowl or measuring cup, mix together the sour cream and vanilla.  

Beat the butter and sugar together using a mixer at medium-high speed until it is pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes.  Add one third of the flour and, with the mixer on low, combine just until the flour has blended in with the butter mixture.  Add one third of the sour cream and mix briefly.  Continue alternating the flour and sour cream, mixing each time just until the new ingredient has incorporated.  

Spoon the mixture into a pan and smooth it evenly across the pan.  With a slotted spoon, remove the rhubarb and distribute it evenly on top of the batter, leaving any remaining liquid in the bowl. Sprinkle the streusel mixture evenly over the top of the cake.  If you have remaining liquid, drizzle it over the top of the streusel.  Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the streusel is golden brown, about 50 minutes.

Let the cake cool completely in the pan and then cut it into squares for serving.

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Banana Coconut Pecan Bread

We have made a lot of banana chocolate chip snack cakes (my first recipe on this blog!).  It doesn't often happen that all three children want the same food for breakfast or for a snack, but banana baked goods seem to do the trick.  I wanted to change it up a bit, though, so I have been working on this banana bread.

I know that banana bread may not be the most exciting recipe to share, but I have been tweaking this recipe for months and I am really happy with the way it has come out.  It is very banana-y and moist, and the coconut adds a bit of extra sweetness. 

Of course, not everybody in our family likes nuts, so I had to come up with a trick for making half the loaf with nuts and half without.  I left the batter without nuts then put a spatula in the middle of the pan and poured in about half of the batter.  Leave the spatula there and stir nuts into the remaining half of the batter.  Pour that into the other side of the pan and remove the spatula.  Place a nut on the top of the nut side so that you can track which side is which. 

If you happen to have access to a snaggletoothed two year old nephew with deliciously pudgy fingers and a smile that melts your heart, definitely enlist him to help.

Second Helping:  Blueberry Crumb Cake

 

Banana Coconut Pecan Bread

Makes 1 standard loaf
20 minutes preparation time
50-55 minutes baking time

approximately 2 cups mashed bananas (3-4)
6 tablespoons melted butter
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 1/2 cups white whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 cup coconut
1/2 cup pecans, broken a bit (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Butter and flour a standard loaf pan.

In a large bowl, mix together the mashed bananas, butter, sugars, and eggs.  In a separate bowl, mix the flour, salt, baking soda, and coconut.  Mix until just combined.  Add the nuts and mix briefly.  Pour the batter into the loaf pan. 

Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center of the bread comes out clean, about 50-55 minutes. Standard-sized muffins take about 25 minutes to bake.  Let the cake cool in the pan for about half an hour then flip it out onto a cooling rack to continue to cool or serve it warm.

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Dilly Dally Whole Wheat Pancake Mix

 
When the children were younger, it was an effort to get anywhere.  Just when I'd think we were ready to head out the door, someone would need to go to the bathroom or would have wandered back into the playroom.  Getting out in time for school was particularly challenging.  I remember when I was home on maternity leave after Chloe was born, it took everything I had to get the kids out of the house.  Once we were out, we needed to keep moving; there was no time for dawdling.

My frequent refrain in those days was, "no dilly dallying." As one stared out the window instead of getting dressed, another stopped to pick up a stone, and another collected leaves and acorns, I would say, again and again, "no dilly dallying."   And on weekdays when the children wanted pancakes for breakfast, there simply wasn't time.  Saturday we called dilly dally day.  That was the day we could dawdle, stare into space, stop every few feet along our path, and, of course, eat pancakes.

 
I wish I could have those moments back now for the children.  In hindsight, I would rather be late for school and allow the children to hunt for treasures.  But I did figure out a way to get them pancakes during the week.  We now make our own pancake mix by mixing together the dry ingredients in advance.  When the children want pancakes on a weekday, we just add milk, eggs, and butter to the mix.  This is our basic recipe for pancakes with a touch of whole wheat and lots of flavor.  You can top them with whatever you like.  My favorite is syrup and a few toasted pecans.

Dilly Dally Whole Wheat Pancakes

If you'd like to make mix to store for another day, make several batches of the dry ingredients.  I usually quadruple the recipe.  When you are ready to make the pancakes, add the amount of milk, eggs, and butter listed below for each 1 1/3 cups of the mix. 

Makes about 15 pancakes
15 minutes preparation time
15-20 minutes cooking time

The dry ingredients:
1/2 cup unbleached white flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt

To finish the pancakes:
3/4 to 1 cup milk
1 egg
2 tablespoons melted butter

Measure all of the dry ingredients into a large bowl and mix them thoroughly with a whisk.  If you are making a multiple batch for a mix, measure out 1 1/3 cups of the dry ingredients and put the rest in an air tight storage container.  Measure 3/4 cup of the the milk into a large measuring cup and warm it briefly in the microwave so that when you add the melted butter it will not immediately congeal in the cold milk, about 30 seconds.  Mix in the egg and butter.  Add the wet ingredients to the dry ones and mix just long enough to wet the flour mixture.  If the mixture is too stiff, add up to a half cup more milk.

Heat a large griddle or frying pan over medium-high heat.  To test the cooking surface to see if it is hot, sprinkle a few drops on it.  If they dance, the griddle is ready.  Add a mixture of butter and oil to the cooking surface, and swirl the pan so that it coats evenly.  Pour out a scant quarter cup to make each pancake.  When small bubbles appear on the surface of the pancakes, flip them and cook on the other side.  Serve hot with your favorite pancake toppings.

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Chunky Apple Muffins

With fall in the air, I've been excited to bake again.  Fall baking summons those warm spices, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, the perfect complements to apples and pumpkins.  And with cooler temperatures, I'm happy to turn the oven on again.  Baking warms up the house, and the smell of something delicious in the oven invites us in so that we are happy to be indoors and don't have a chance to miss the warmth and long nights of summer.

 
These muffins are hearty, with more fruit and nuts than batter.  They may be funny-looking, but each bite is a mouthful of goodness.  The recipe is inspired by Marion Cunningham's Raw Apple Muffins originally published in her Breakfast Book and reprinted in Gourmet.  Marion Cunningham is one of my culinary heros.  She thinks people should cook at home and has devoted  much of her life to getting more of us to do that.  David Lebovitz wrote this wonderful tribute to her.  If you have a minute, check it out.  It is inspiring.  

Marion Cunningham also overhauled the Fannie Farmer Cookbook, the 1983 version of which I inherited from my grandmother.  The cookbook is loaded with recipes for many basic foods, and I turn to it again and again.  My copy of the book is also filled with recipes that my grandmother wrote on cards and clipped from newspapers and magazines.  My favorite souvenir is the 1963 accounting from my grandmother's women's group, the Aloha Club, complete with menus and an expense accounting.  (Why this 1963 accounting appears in a 1983 cookbook, I cannot understand.  Did she save it for 20 years?)

 
When I made these muffins this time, I only made one version.  Sometimes I make multiple variations of a recipe to appeal to each child.  The last time I made almond granola, I ended up with three batches, one with everything, one with nuts but no raisins, and one with raisins but no nuts.  But this time, in the vain hope that the children might just eat them as they were intended, I told them that they could just pick out anything they didn't like.  The muffins smelled so good when they were baking that they were unfazed.  And the perk has been that when Chloe picks out all her walnuts, she passes them to me.  Yum.

Chunky Apple Muffins

1 1/2 cups unbleached white flour
1 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon baking soda
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
3/4 cup canola oil
1 tablespoon vanilla
4 cups (4-5 medium) tart apples, skins on, cored and diced
3/4 cup maple syrup
1 cup raisins
1 cup walnut pieces

Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

Line two 12-cup muffin tins with baking cups or oil them.  In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the flours, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt.  In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, oil, and vanilla.  Add the apples and syrup to the egg-oil mixture and mix well.  Add the flour mixture and stir until just mixed.  The batter will be very stiff.  Stir in the raisins and walnuts.

Spoon the batter into the muffin tins, filling each about 3/4 cup full.  Make sure that there is a sufficient amount of batter in each cup to hold the fruit and nuts.  Bake until a toothpick comes out clean, approximately 25 minutes.  Let the muffins cool in the muffin tins for a few minutes, and then turn them out onto a rack to cool completely.

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Almond Granola

 

 

One of my favorite summertime treats is plain yogurt with fresh berries and granola.  I have it for breakfast sometimes, but more often for lunch.  I love the cool, tart, creaminess of the yogurt contrasted with the sweetness of the berries and the crunch of the granola.  It is fantastic with those local berries that are available in the markets now.

I used to buy granola mostly in bulk at Whole Foods or at the Silver Spring-Takoma Park Coop, and they offer a great selection of different flavors.  But once I made it myself, I was amazed by how much better it tasted.  It is very easy to put together and stays fresher longer when I make it at home.  I make this granola with a lot of almonds because, well, I like a lot of almonds.  I also use almond extract to intensify the almond flavor.  Because Chloe doesn't like almonds in her granola, I leave them whole so that they are easier for us to pick out.

I usually make my yogurt-granola concoction into a parfait because it's pretty and more appealing for me or the kids.  I have to confess that I am very fussy about how I make it.  I always put it in a glass, with the granola on the bottom, then the fruit, then the yogurt.  Depending on the size of the glass, I might make another layer, or just put a sprinkle of granola and a few berries on top.  Layered this way, the yogurt drips into the berries and pulls their juices into the granola.  This fully flavors the granola with the berry flavor but can't sit too long or the granola will lose its crunch. 

Am I completely insane to be so particular about how I prepare my yogurt?  Maybe I'm just getting set in my ways as I get older.  If that's the case, the next few decades are going to get really rough.   

Almond Granola

Makes about 6 cups
15 minutes preparation time
1 hour baking time

2/3 cup honey
1/3 cup maple syrup
1 teaspoon cinnamon
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
1/3 cup water
1 teaspoon almond extract
3 1/2 cups rolled oats
1 1/2 cups raw, unsalted, whole almonds
1/4 cup sesame seeds
1/2 cup sunflower seeds
1/2 cup raisins

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.

In a small pot, mix together the honey, maple syrup, cinnamon, olive oil, salt, water and almond extract.  Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and set the mixture aside.

In a large bowl, mix the oats, almonds, sesame seeds, and sunflower seeds.  Pour the honey and maple syrup mixture into the bowl and mix thoroughly so that the oats and nuts are completely coated.

Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.  Pour the granola onto the sheets and spread it out evenly into a single layer.  Bake for 45 to 50 minutes,  watching to make sure that the almonds do not get too dark.  About half way through, remove each tray and gently push the granola around the tray to break up any clumps.

Remove the granola from the oven and let it come to room temperature on the baking sheets, then add the raisins. The granola will keep for several weeks in an airtight container.

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Rhubarb-Thyme Compote

 

Rhubarb is out at the farmer's markets this time of year, and I love it.  My mother often made a rhubarb sauce to have on hand as a treat, usually with vanilla ice cream.  Today it would be given the fancier term compote, which is a thick sauce of fruit in a sugar syrup.  Compote is extremely easy to make and can be used in a number of ways.  This rhubarb and thyme compote is delicious spooned over ice cream, on toast, over pound cake, or on pancakes.  It is also delicious on its own as a snack, although you may want to double the recipe so that you will have more of it.  My favorite way to eat it these days is swirled into plain yogurt. 

 

Because rhubarb is tart, it is often paired with strawberries, which add a balancing sweetness.  It is delicious that way, but this time, I wanted to try something a bit different, so I added the thyme. Although thyme is usually served in savory dishes, it is a nice complement to tart flavors like lemon, and I thought it would go well with rhubarb too.  It adds an earthiness and depth of flavor that elevates this compote from sweet treat to a more sophisticated flavor.  The thyme flavor is subtle because I still wanted the rhubarb to be the star of the show.   

Chloe tried the compote right out of the pan and gave it a thumbs up.  Just wait until she tries it over vanilla ice cream!

Rhubarb-Thyme Compote

Makes 1 1/2 to 2 cups
15 minutes preparation time
25 minutes cooking time, plus chilling time

5 stalks rhubarb, trimmed and sliced crosswise (about 3 cups)
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme, minced

In a medium bowl, toss the rhubarb with the sugar and let it sit for about 10 minutes.  This will pull some of the liquid out of the rhubarb so you will need less water when you cook it.

In a small saucepan, mix the rhubarb with the lemon zest and thyme.  Add a few tablespoons of water to make sure that the bottom of the pot is entirely coated with water.  Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and let simmer until the rhubarb is very soft, about 20 minutes.  Check the pan every few minutes to make sure that there is enough liquid to maintain a simmer.  If needed, add more a bit more water.

When it is done, scoop it into a jar and let it cool in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it.

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Candied Ginger Scones

Teaism, a restaurant in Washington, D.C., offers much more than tea.  They do sell a wide variety of teas and baked goods, but they also serve savory dishes that I have enjoyed at many lunches.  They make a delicious bento box, and a very tasty Japanese ochazuke soup, which is made with brown rice, green tea, napa cabbage, cilantro, and a hit of wasabi.  It is very satisfying on a cold day.  

Among the baked goods, though, are some of my favorites.  They make an incredible salty oat cookie and I love their ginger scones.  The scones are made with sweet and spicy bits of candied ginger and are perfect with a cup of tea or a mug of coffee.  I finally recreated them recently at home and thought I would share them with you this week because they would be perfect for a Mother's Day brunch. 

I used some white whole wheat flour to add a bit more substance, but you could substitute more white flour if you can't get it easily.  The scones were deliciously sweet and tangy with a bit of a kick from the ginger.  A sprinkle of sugar on the top added an extra layer of sweetness and texture.

I hope that someday I will figure out how to make the perfect salty oat cookie and replicate that ochazuke soup, but in the meantime, I'll tide myself over with these scones.

Candied Ginger Scones

Makes 12 scones
30 minutes preparation
15 minutes baking time

1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 cup unbleached white flour
1 cup white whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup chopped candied ginger
2 large eggs, divided
4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) butter, melted
1/3 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons large grain sugar, such as turbinado

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Lightly oil a baking sheet.

In a large bowl, sift together the sugar, flours, baking powder, and salt.  Stir the ginger into the flour mixture.  In a small bowl, lightly whisk the eggs.  Reserve 1 tablespoon of the egg in a separate bowl or cup. 

Make a well in the flour mixture, and add the eggs, butter and cream.  Gently stir the batter until it is evenly moist.  The batter will be soft and sticky.  Turn the batter onto a lightly floured surface and shape it into a large circle, about 10 inches in diameter.  Using a sharp kinfe, cut the circle into 12 even wedges.  Brush the scones with the reserved tablespoon of egg and sprinkle it with the turbinado sugar.

Arrange the scones on a baking sheet and bake for approximately 15 minutes, until the scones are lightly browned.

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Blueberry Crumb Cake

 
I love crumb cake and a few years ago, I found a recipe for a peach crumb cake on epicurious that was fabulous.  It has become one of those recipes that I turn to again and again.  It's not peach season so when I last made the recipe, I substituted blueberries to excellent results. 

Of course it's not blueberry season either, but last summer my sister's friend gave her a huge box of blueberries which she kindly shared with me.  We have kept our blueberry stash in the freezer and used it for baking and pancakes all winter, and it is now down to a small bag.  It has been such a treat to have this taste of summer available to us throughout the year. 

The layer of fruit under the crumb keeps the cake very moist, even if you store it for a couple of days before serving.  I used some turbinado sugar in the topping because I like the crunch that it adds, but you can substitute more brown sugar instead. 

The children loved helping with this recipe, especially sifting the flour and layering the blueberries and crumb topping.  And they definitely enjoyed the results.

Blueberry Crumb Cake
Adapted from epicurious

For the crumb topping:
1 cup unbleached white flour
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup coarse cane sugar such as turbinado (or substitute brown sugar)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon

For the cake:
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
2/3 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup unbleached white flour
3/4 cup baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cup fresh or frozen blueberries

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Butter and flour an 8-inch square cake pan.

To make the crumb topping, assemble all the ingredients for it in a food processor and pulse until it has mixed thoroughly and the largest pieces of butter are no larger than a pea.  Set aside.

To make the cake, cream the butter and sugar together until the mixture is light and fluffy.  Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each egg.  Sift in the flour, baking powder, and salt and mix just until the flour is moist.  Spoon the batter, which will be quite thick, into the cake pan and spread it evenly across the bottom of the pan.  Sprinkle the blueberries in a single layer over the batter and spoon the crumb topping on top of the blueberries.  Bake for 50 minutes to 1 hour, until a toothpick comes out clean.  Let the cake cool in the cake pan and, just before serving, cut it into squares.

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Green Eggs, No Ham

As you may know, Dr. Seuss’s 105th birthday is this coming Monday, March 2nd. I love so many of his stories, especially the ones with made up critters and words. But as a mom who loves to cook and is always trying to get her children to try new things, there is a special place in my heart for Green Eggs and Ham. We have had many Green Eggs and Ham moments of our own, with one or another of the children refusing to try something new. Then, after I spend much time cajoling, begging, and bribing, they try it and you can see a change come over them. “It’s not too bad!” or sometimes even "Yummy!" Yes!

I’d been thinking about a green egg recipe since watching Carla make a version on Top Chef, and this is the perfect occasion to make it. Obviously, I wanted to make something that my children would eat. I wanted to make something that we adults would like, too, so I didn't want to use food coloring. Instead, I decided to use pesto, a family favorite, and a green food that many children seem to love.

I decided to bake the eggs, essentially poaching them in the oven in pesto with a bit of cream and parmesan. The result was a tasty baked egg, crisp on the outside, with a soft yolk inside. Delicious! 

The recipe is for one egg in an individual ramekin. Just multiply it to make as many as you need.  I used some pesto that I had made in the summer and had in the freezer. You can make your own or use a jar of prepared pesto. You don’t need much for this recipe, so you should have plenty left over for another use. Obviously, we skipped the ham, but a side of veggie bacon would have been great.  

Yes, we like them, Sam I am!

Green Eggs, No Ham

Makes 1 egg
5 minutes preparation time
5 minutes cooking time

Butter for the ramekin
2 teaspoons cream
1 teaspoon pesto
pinch of salt
1 egg
1 teaspoon parmesan

Set the oven to broil and butter a ramekin. In a small bowl, mix the cream, pesto, and salt. Pour the pesto mixture into the ramekin, set the ramekin on a cookie sheet (this makes it more stable in the oven and easier to remove), and put it under the broiler for 2 minutes.  Remove the ramekin from the oven and gently break an egg into it. Sprinkle the parmesan on top and return it to the oven.

Cook the egg until the egg white firms up but the yolk is still soft, approximately 4 minutes. Remove the ramekin from the oven and let the egg rest for about a minute. 

Because the ramekins are hot, if you are serving a child, I recommend turning the egg onto a plate. Just run a knife around the edge of the ramekin and the egg will slide out easily onto the serving plate.

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Banana Chocolate Chip Snack Cakes

I love banana bread, but my oldest daughter Olivia doesn’t like it at all.  When we recently had a bunch of bananas that had ripened past the point of perfection -- and far past the stage of ripeness that my kids will tolerate -- I wanted to create something different.

I hesitate to call the result a muffin because, to me, that suggests a denser concoction.  We could probably debate where the line falls between muffins and cupcakes, but these lie somewhere in between.  They are healthier than cake because they have a minimal amount of sugar, some whole wheat flour, and just enough chips to add a rich flavor and entice the children.  They are lighter than muffins, though, significantly airier than banana bread, and have a subtle banana flavor.

As with banana bread, the more ripe the bananas, the more flavor they add.  We used white whole wheat flour, but you could substitute either whole wheat or white flour.  We lined the muffin tins with cupcake liners because they are more fun, and they make the tins easier to clean.  The children helped mash the bananas, break up the nuts, mix the batter, line the muffin tins, and spoon the batter into the liners.  The nuts are optional.  We spooned half the batter without nuts into the cups, and then added half the amount of nuts before spooning in the remaining batter.

The children devoured these snack cakes.  My challenge has been letting the bananas ripen long enough so that I can make them more often.

Banana Chocolate Chip Snack Cakes

Makes 1 dozen snack cakes
20 minutes preparation time
20-25 minutes baking time

1 cup white whole wheat flour
1 cup unbleached white flour
3 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup (approximately) bananas (about 2-3), mashed
4 tablespoons (1/4 cup) melted butter
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1/3 cup chocolate chips
1/3 cup pecans or walnuts, broken into pieces (optional)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.  Line a 12-muffin pan with cupcake liners.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flours, baking powder and salt.  In a medium bowl, stir together the mashed banana, butter, sugars, and eggs.  Add the dry mixture to the banana mixture and mix until just moist.  Add the chocolate chips and nuts if you are using them.

Spoon the batter into the cupcake liners and bake until a toothpick comes out clean, 20-25 minutes.

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