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Cooking with Mother Goose: Ramp and Asparagus Straciatella

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes.

Jack Sprat

Jack Sprat could eat no fat,
His wife could eat no lean.
So betwixt them both, you see,
they licked the platter clean.

My eating mood this spring has matched the weather. On any given day, I'm not really sure whether I want to eat something hot or cold, something wintery or something springy. The only thing I am sure of is that I want to take advantage of all the great spring produce that is beginning to pop up.



Last week, I bought some of those harbingers of spring -- ramps -- and some asparagus at the same time. And I got it stuck in my head that I wanted to serve them together. If you haven't tried ramps, they grow wild in these mid-Atlantic states and have a fresh, garlicky flavor. They can go into pesto, an omelette, or sprinkled over a salad.

Thinking about pairing them with eggs brought to mind a spring soup that we made years ago. It was an asparagus straciatella, an Italian soup with egg and parmesan whipped in. For years, it was the only way that Olivia would eat asparagus, but we hadn't made it in a long time. My ramps were a bit banged up, too, so throwing them into a soup seemed like a good solution.

The ramps added great flavor to the soup which suited my mood this cool spring: a hot soup with spring flavors. Olivia was happy to see the soup, but the other two kiddies, not so much.

Oscar didn't want to eat the asparagus, but poked around it with his spoon to get to the eggy broth. Chloe didn't like the broth, but picked all of the asparagus out with a fork. Neither of them finished an entire bowl of soup, but between the two of them... Well, you get the idea.

Next time they'll only get one bowl. No doubt, the writer of "Jack Sprat" had children.

2009: Asparagus with Shallot Champagne Vinaigrette
2010: Asparagus and Goat Cheese Frittata
2011: Ramp Pesto
2012: Avocado and Radish Quinoa Salad

Ramp and Asparagus Straciatella

Serves 6

15 minutes preparation time
20 minutes cooking time

If you can't find ramps, substitute spring onions or garlic scapes for a similar flavor.

1 tablespoon olive oil
3 pounds fresh asparagus, cleaned, ends snapped off, and cut into 1 1/2 inch pieces
1 large bunch ramps, rinsed, ends trimmed, and diced
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 large eggs
1 cup shredded parmesan, plus more for serving

Heat the oil in a soup pot. Add the asparagus and ramps and cook just until the asparagus begins to soften about 3 minutes. Scrape the vegetables out of the pot onto a plate.

Add 10 cups of water to the pot and stir with a wooden spoon to loosen any bits of ramps or asparagus that are stuck to the pot. Bring the water to a boil.

While waiting for the water to boil, whisk the eggs in a medium-sized bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add the parmesan and stir again. When the water has begun to boil, whisk the egg mixture in. Add the asparagus and ramps back to the pot and cook until the egg has cooked and the vegetables have heated through, about 3 minutes.

To serve, ladle into bowls and top with a bit more parmesan.

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Shiitake Mushroom Soup with Parsley Pesto

Our children have staged a soup mutiny.

Gabe and I have been coasting along, doing our usual winter thing of working through the rotation of our favorite soups. We recently have made caldo verde, minestrone, creamy tomato soup, and of course, that timeless classic, potato-leek soup. And more.

But when I said this weekend that I planned to make a butternut squash soup this week, there was a revolt. A revolt of the tween variety, with eye rolling, deep sighs, and dramatic pleas."Please, please, PLEASE, not another soup!" Accompanied by head flopping onto the table forehead first.

Apparently they are tired of soup.

In that case, we may as well make something that they won't eat anyway. Mushrooms were the obvious choice.

I came across a recipe for a creamy mushroom soup in the New York Times and it fit the bill for a parents-only soup. I tweaked it a bit, of course, skipping the step of making separate stock and adding a parsley pesto on top. The soup ended up being just what I wanted for the latest wine club recipe card for Black Ankle's just-released 2010 Leaf Stone Syrah, a big bold wine that complemented the meatiness of the mushrooms.

They can have their plain pasta and baby carrots. We're slurping soup and sipping wine.

2009: Roasted Shallot and Buttercup Squash Soup
2010: Creamy Lettuce Soup
2011: Lemongrass Noodle Soup with Chile-Garlic Paste
2012: Lemony White Bean Soup

Shiitake Mushroom Soup with Parsley Pesto

To accompany Black Ankle's 2010 Leaf Stone Syrah

This mushroom soup is hearty and richly flavored, although it uses milk rather than cream. The parsley pesto is optional, but it adds a pop of freshness to the earthy mushrooms. For a more elegant soup, you can strain the soup through a sieve or run it through a food mill. You will lose some volume, but served in a dainty tea cup it would make the perfect first course for a dinner party. If you have extra parsley pesto, it would is excellent tossed onto a salad or boiled potatoes, tucked into an omelette, or spread on a sandwich.

Adapted liberally from Jeremy Bearman's recipe in The New York Times
Serves 6 as a first course
20 minutes preparation time
40 minutes cooking time

For the soup:
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 pounds shiitake and crimini mushrooms, brushed and sliced
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
1 large leek, white and light green parts, cleaned and chopped
8 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried sage
salt and pepper
10 cups vegetable stock
2 cups whole milk

For the parsley pesto:
2 cups fresh parsley leaves and stems, rinsed and dried
1/2 cup olive oil
pinch of salt

To make the soup, heat the olive oil over high heat. Add the mushrooms and let them sit for a minute or two before stirring them. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly browned and significantly reduced in size, about 15 minutes. If the pan starts to get too brown as the mushrooms are cooking, add a splash of water and scrape it with a wooden spoon to loosen the caramelized coating.

Reduce the heat to medium and add the celery, onion, leeks, garlic, rosemary, thyme, and sage. Add a generous amount of salt and pepper. Cook until the celery, onion, and leeks have softened, about 10 minutes. Add the vegetable stock and bring the soup to a simmer. Simmer until all the vegetables are meltingly soft, 20 to 30 minutes.

While the soup simmers, make the parsley pesto. Add the parsley, olive oil, and a pinch of salt to a blender and blend until the parsley has all been incorporated into the oil.

Purée the soup with an immersion blender until all of the vegetables are uniformly tiny. (If you would like a more refined soup, strain the soup by placing a mesh sieve over a heat-proof bowl. working in batches, ladle the soup into the sieve and use a spoon to stir and mash the mushroom mixture to release the liquid. Remove the solids and save them to make stock if you like. Repeat until all of the soup has been strained).

Add the milk to the soup and stir. Just before serving, heat the soup over low heat. Try not to boil the soup or the milk will scald. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and top with several small dollops of the parsley pesto.

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Roasted Cauliflower and Turnip Soup with Crispy Turnip Leaves

Driving home from the inauguration yesterday, our three kids were in the back of the car, waving their flags, giggling, cracking jokes. Limbs were sprawled over each other and heads lolled onto shoulders. It was rowdy and raucous. Listening to them, I was heartened by their togetherness and their ability to make each other laugh.

But I was also nervous that someone would go too far and cross that line that had been crossed before and before and before. Those squeals of delight would turn into accusations and the mood would be broken.

We made it home, though, and after Gabe and I went into the house, the children stayed shoe-horned into the back of the car, talking together about who-knows-what.

It was a metaphor for the day, that togetherness.

Unity. United States. United We Stand.

When we are at our best in our non-political lives, we rely on that unity in good and bad times. Communities pull together when tragedy falls. Neighbors dig each other out of snowstorms. Families gather together around the table. In happy times, unity is cause for celebration; in difficult ones, it sustains us.

And for a day -- even in Washington -- unity was the theme. I was swept up in it and optimistic that if we pull together in our communities and as a country, we can overcome the seemingly insurmountable challenges that we face today.

At least for now, I'm feeling the promise that unity can bring. We are in this together.

Richard Blanco's "One Today" said it so eloquently, ending on a high note.

We head home: through the gloss of rain or weight
of snow, or the plum blush of dusk, but always -- home,
always under one sky, our sky. And always one moon
like a silent drum tapping on every rooftop
and every window, of one country -- all of us --
facing the stars
hope -- a new constellation
waiting for us to map it,
waiting for us to name it -- together

2009: Black Bean and Monterey Jack Casserole
2010: Orange-Soy Tofu
2011: Warm Garlicky Lentil and Potato Salad
2012: Simple Creamy Tomato Soup

Roasted Cauliflower and Turnip Soup with Crispy Turnip Leaves

20 minutes preparation time
approximately 60 minutes cooking time

This soup is made with the vegetables of the season, roasted first to give the soup that rich, earthy flavor. We liked this combination, but feel free to substitute the vegetables that you find at the market on your next visit, carrots, greens, sweet potatoes would all make interesting additions.

There is no need to peel the potatoes or turnips. Just scrub them well and trim off the turnip stem and roots.

1 small cauliflower, washed and cut into florets
6 medium turnips with their greens
4 large potatoes, scrubbed and cubed
drizzle of olive oil
salt and pepper
1 head of garlic
1 quart vegetable stock
1 tablespoon cider vinegar

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Cut the turnip greens off of the turnips. Set aside. Scrub the turnip bulbs and cut them into cubes. Put them in one side of a baking dish. Put the cubed potatoes on the other side. Drizzle olive oil over the vegetables, sprinkle on some salt and pepper, and mix.

Cut the top off the head of garlic so that the tops of the individual cloves inside are exposed. Wrap the head tightly in foil and put it in the pan with the vegetables.

In another pan, toss the cauliflower florets with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Roast the vegetables, stirring them a few times, until they are browned and tender. The cauliflower will be done first, after 20-30 minutes, depending on the size of the florets. The potatoes and turnips will take a bit longer. The garlic will likely be last and will be done when the individual cloves are lightly brown and soft enough to spread.

When the vegetables have finished roasting, remove them from the oven and add them to a soup pot. If necessary, add a few splashes of water to the pan to loosen any caramelized bits. Add that water to the soup pot. Slip the garlic cloves out of their skins and add them to the pot, too. Add the vegetable stock and enough water to cover the vegetables. Bring to a simmer and until the vegetables are very soft, about 20 minutes.

Taste and add salt and pepper. Purée with an immersion blender.

While the soup is cooking, arrange the turnip greens on a baking sheet and toss them with olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. Toast them until they are crisp and dark, but not black. Watch them carefully; they should take 7-10 minutes.

Serve the soup in individual bowls and add a turnip leaf or two to the bowl for garnish.

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Lemony White Bean Soup

Here's another extremely easy soup for those of you who appreciate an all-in-one-pot, not-too-much-fuss meal. We made it on the hot plate in our temporary kitchen and I wondered why we hadn't made it more often. It used to be one of our favorites but for some reason it had fallen out of our rotation.

The soup is blended and the beans give it a hearty creaminess. A squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of fresh parsley at the end give it some freshness. And because it is packed with protein it is an excellent meal on its own, or, even better, with a crisp salad on the side.

And it really is an extremely easy soup to make. Except for the garnishes, everything goes into the pot at once and then you're done. The beans have to be soaked and they simmer for a while to soften, but they don't even need to be chopped. Only the onion and the parsley go under the knife.

Otherwise, it just simmers away for a few hours, giving your kitchen (or basement, as the case may be) a coziness and giving you the appearance of working to make a delicious meal when you really are doing absolutely nothing. Or doing something better than nothing, like reading a book, or taking a nap. Wouldn't that be lovely?

February 2009: Sage Risotto with Wild Mushrooms
February 2010: Cauliflower Soup with Stilton
February 2011: Lemongrass Noodle Soup with Chili-Garlic Paste

Lemony White Bean Soup
Adapted from Martha Rose Shulman's Fast Vegetarian Feasts

This soup could be varied in an infinite number of ways by changing the garnish. A swirl of pesto, a dab of harissa, or a pat of butter would all be excellent additions. Alternatively, other herbs could be substituted for (or added to) the parsley, such as thyme, chives, or tarragon.

 Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time, plus time for soaking the beans
approximately 2 hours cooking time

1 pound white (Great Northern) beans
1 medium onion, diced
1 bouillon cube or 2 cups vegetable stock
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste
juice or one lemon or more, to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Soak the beans overnight.

The next day, drain the water and add enough fresh water to cover the beans generously. Don't worry about the exact amount of water; more can be added during the cooking process, if needed. Add the onions, bouillon or stock, and the bay leaf. Season generously.

Bring the soup to a boil over medium-high heat. Once it is boiling, reduce the heat and let the soup simmer until the beans are very soft, about 2 hours. Check periodically throughout the cooking process to make sure the is enough water and give the beans a stir.

When the beans have finished cooking, remove the bay leaf. Puree with an immersion blender. Add the lemon juice and parsley. Serve immediately with more lemon on the side, if desired.

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Simple Creamy Tomato Soup

Can you stop after just one potato chip? Or two for that matter? Or, if your neighbors left some home made chocolate chip cookies on your doorstep and you bite into one and it is delicious, could you have just one? Or two?

Last weekend our contractors surprised me by hooking up our stove. I didn't know it was coming, but before they left on Friday they said we could use the stove over the weekend. Whoopee!

I cooked just two things before the tarps went back on for the next round of drywall-skimming-painting. First we made a galette des rois to mark the end of the Christmas season. I had planned to bake it at my sister's house but instead we baked it at home! And I broke that oven in very well, oozing butter all over the pristine bottom. (Note to self: next year, seal the edges of the galette completely and -- just in case -- use a cookie sheet with edges for baking it).

I also made a simple butternut squash soup. I just used what I had on hand, but it tasted like the best soup ever. Not because it was, but because we made it, at home, in our soon-to-be new kitchen. Never mind that I had to run up the stairs from our temporary basement kitchen about 30 times to get all that I needed. I cooked soup! On our new stove!

But I can't stop at that. Cooking those things just whet my appetite. Now I have the urge to cook more.

This weekend I whipped up a batch of another of our favorite soups, a simple creamy tomato soup. I love this recipe because the soup is very tasty, and we can make it even when we are running low on supplies or don't have the energy to make something more complicated.  As long as there are canned tomatoes in the pantry, we can make this soup, even with our limited supplies.

The soup can be topped with a wide variety of toppings, such as fresh herbs, toasted nuts, croutons, or a dollop of creme frâiche.

Best of all, we could make it on a hot plate.

Simple Creamy Tomato Soup
Adapted from Epicuious

Serves 6
10 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 small onions, diced
3 tablespoons flour
3 1/2 cups milk
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons salt
2 28-ounce cans crushed tomatoes, preferably San Marzanos
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons chopped herbs

In a large pot, heat the olive oil.  Add the onions and cook until they are soft, about 7 minutes.  Sprinkle in the flour and stir until it is incorporated into the onions and no longer visible. Add the thyme and stir again.

Chop the tomatoes or use my favorite method and squish them through your fingers as you take them out of the can. Add them to the pot and sprinkle the baking soda on top of them. Stir to combine fully. Add the remaining ingredients and bring the mixture to a simmer.  Gently simmer for a few minutes to give the flavors a chance to mix and mellow. Remove the bay leaf. Purée with an immersion blender. 

Stir in the herbs, if you are using them. Serve immediately.

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Lemongrass Noodle Soup with Chile-Garlic Paste

Comfort food comes in many shapes and flavors. Classics like macaroni and cheese, lasagna, and pudding fit the bill, and I don't think I'm the only one to find comfort in a bowl of ice cream. There's also that hard-to-pin-down category of childhood comfort foods. There are as many of those as there are of us, and one person's comfort food might not have the same appeal for those who didn't grow up eating it. This Portugese soup is an example of one of my childhood staples. Just one spoonful of that, and things start to look up.

Soup is in a league of its own when it comes to comfort. There is just nothing more warming on a cold winter's night. We eat a lot of soup this time of year. Our current go-to soup when someone is feeling under the weather is tomato-based vegetable soup, essentially any variation of minestrone. Our children, who would wrinkle their noses at a cabbage or turnip if served on its own, slurp this soup down by the bowlful.

But I've been thinking for a while now that we need a vegetarian version of chicken noodle soup, that classic soup that is supposed to cure everything from the common cold to the soul. The idea of a noodle soup with a rich broth has been calling me. What is a vegetarian to do?

After years of noodling over it (sorry, I just couldn't resist the pun), I've finally got it. This soup fits the bill for me. It has a rich, flavorful broth, but is still mild enough to appeal to the younger set. We served the soup with extra cilantro and the chili paste passed at the table so that anyone who wanted a flavor boost could have it.

Chloe was the only one who resisted any of it and even she picked out the noodles and carrots, which is as balanced a meal as many she eats on many days. As for the rest of us, I think we'll be eating a lot more of this soup.

Second Helping: Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup (another family favorite)
Thirds?  Potato-Leek Soup (we still make this regularly, almost as often as minestrone)

Lemongrass Noodle Soup with Chile-Garlic Paste

For the soup:
3 fresh lemongrass stalks
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 3-inch section ginger, unpeeled, sliced into rounds
1/2 large shallot, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and coarsely chopped
10 cups vegetable stock
3 medium carrots, thinly sliced
2 cups small broccoli florets
1 10-ounce package Thai rice noodles (white or brown)
1/2 pound firm tofu, cut into small cubes
2 tablespoons lime juice (about 1 lime)
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro for serving

For the chili-garlic paste
1 small fresh green chile (jalapeno for mild, serrano for medium, habanero for hot)
1 small garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon olive oil

Trim the root ends off the lemongrass and remove any outer leaves that are tough or brittle. Chop off the tops if they are dry. Coarsely chop the remaining lemongrass.

Heat the olive oil in a large stock pot over medium heat. Add the lemongrass, ginger, shallots, and garlic. Cook until the mixture is fragrant and golden, about 3 minutes. Add the vegetable stock, raise the heat to high, and bring the broth to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and let the broth simmer for a couple of minutes. At this point, if you do not plan to serve the soup right away, cool the stock and store it until you are ready to use it.

Before you are ready to serve the soup, pour it through a strainer into a soup pot. Using the back of a wooden spoon, mash the solids against the strainer to remove all of the liquid.

Bring the broth to a boil. Add the carrots and broccoli and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 8 minutes. Add the noodles and cubes of tofu and cook until the noodles are just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Gently stir in the lime juice.

While the soup is cooking, make the chile paste.  Finely chop the garlic and chile. Using a mortar and pestle, mash the chile, garlic, and olive oil together until the mixture becomes a chunky paste. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, just mince the chile and garlic finely and mix them together with a fork. You will just have a chunkier mixture.

Serve the soup steaming hot, with a generous sprinkle of cilantro. Pass the chile paste at the table for anyone who would like to stir it into their soup. I recommend eating the soup with chopsticks and drinking the broth right out of the bowl.

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Pumpkin Soup with a(n Optional) Kick

I know, I know, another recipe for pumpkin soup. Who needs it? But stick with me. This version is worth trying.

I went to a lunch recently for a friend who was having one of those milestone birthdays that need to be celebrated. There was lots of delicious food there, but the birthday girl herself had made a pumpkin soup that created a stir. It was smooth and hearty, with just a bit of heat. I loved that kick, and wanted to recreate it at home.

Peeling and seeding the pumpkin.

But then I pictured three pairs of young eyes looking at me, wondering what I was trying to do by them making a soup that made those precious eyes water. Maybe a spicy soup wouldn't do.

Or maybe it would. I like the challenge of finding a way to create one meal that the entire family can eat without sacrificing the flavor that we adults love. I thought about making two separate batches, but that requires getting two pots dirty, and that is not appealing. Instead, I decided it would be better to add the spice at the table. That way those of us who find spice to be the spice of life could have our way without smoking out the younger ones. So I made a chili oil to drizzle into the soup as we served it.

Chili oil and prepping for the soup.
Somewhere along the way, I determined that the soup would benefit from a pinch of saffron, which has a warm flavor I thought would complement the chili. The result was delicious. Olivia, Gabe, and I all drizzled on the chili oil, although in varying amounts. The other two got theirs straight up, and both liked it. Phew.

This soup would be perfect for any party where guests might have different tolerances for spiciness, such as a dinner party or Thanksgiving dinner.

Pumpkin Soup with a(n Optional) Kick

Serves 6
25 minutes preparation time
About 1 hour 15 minutes cooking time

The chili oil will vary in heat according to the spiciness of the red pepper flakes that you use so it will be hard to predict how spicy the resulting oil will be. If you have left over chili oil, it will keep in the refrigerator for several months.

For the chili oil:
1/2 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

For the soup:
1 small pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cubed (about 6 cups)*
2 tablespoons olive oil
pinch of red pepper flakes
1 medium onion, chopped
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
3 medium carrots, chopped
1 pinch saffron
2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon salt
2 small tomatoes, chopped (about 1 cup)

First make the chili oil. Heat the oil and red pepper flakes in a small saucepan over low heat. Gently simmer for about five minutes to infuse the chili flavor into the oil. Set aside to cool. Pour into a small bowl or bottle.

Next make the soup. Heat the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the red pepper flakes, onion, and garlic. Sauté until the onion softens, about 7 minutes. Add the celery and carrot and cook until they too begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the saffron, potatoes, and pumpkin and stir to combine. Cover the vegetables with water (I used about 8 cups) and bring the soup to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer uncovered until the potatoes and pumpkin are soft, about 45 minutes. Add the tomatoes and simmer for a few more minutes.

With a potato masher or the back of a wooden spoon, mash some of the vegetables to thicken the soup. Serve hot with a drizzle of chili oil for those who would like it.

* I used a small pumpkin, and peeling and cubing it wasn't too difficult. The pictures tell the story, but here -- in words -- is my process. First I cut off the top and bottom of the pumpkin to get it to sit flat. Then I cut the pumpkin in half from top to bottom and scooped out the seeds. I then peeled each half with a potato peeler. To slice the pumpkin, I lay each half cut side down, sliced across into strips, and then the other way to get cubes.

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Corn and Green Bean Chowder

Autumn arrived has arrived here with a bang. More like a splash, actually. Lots of rain and cool weather and suddenly summer is a distant memory. Sandals and shorts? I had them on just a few days ago, but now, sitting here typing on a cool, rainy day, I can't imagine it.

Fall brings its own rewards, though. Crisp days and cool nights. Vibrant red, orange, and yellow leaves against bright blue skies. Paths littered with acorns. The sound of leaves underfoot.  And the flavors: crisp apples, warm soups, sweet pies. Suddenly fall feels great.

We ushered in fall this past weekend camping with friends. Last year we had planned a trip with the same friends, but ended up canceling at the last minute when the torrential rains did not ease up. (All was not lost, though, because we did make some excellent pumpkin cupcakes). This year, we got a great weekend. The days were sunny and cool, and the nights downright chilly, perfect for sitting around a campfire and roasting marshmallows. With good company for the adults and children alike, it was worth the year-long wait.

Veggies prepped and ready for the pot; Chloe pulling the leaves off the thyme stems.

I now have a renewed desire to get out there into the woods more often. Just seeing all the stars in the dark sky, far removed from the city lights, is reason enough to make the trek. And there is something about having to work a bit harder to stay warm, prepare a meal, clean the dishes that makes it seem simpler yet more worthwhile.

Simmering the stock.

I made this soup before we left for the weekend and warmed it over our friends' camp stove, which I think heated it twice as fast as it would have heated on my stovetop at home. This soup uses the best of those vegetables that are abundant at this time of the changing of the seasons -- potatoes, carrots, green beans, even late summer corn if you can find it. The result is a comforting soup that was perfect for a crisp night under a clear sky. It would be delicious on a rainy one too, for that matter.

Second Helping: Chunky Apple Muffins

Corn and Green Bean Chowder

For this soup, I used those skinny green beans, often labeled French Green Beans or Haricots Verts. Regular green beans would do nicely, too, although they need a few extra minutes of cooking time.

Serves 6
20 minutes preparation time
50 minutes cooking time

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 large onion, diced (about 1 cup)
1 medium carrot, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1 small celery rib, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 teaspoon thyme leaves
1 bay leaf
3 cups milk
3 cups vegetable stock
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 large potatoes, peeled and cubed (about 2 cups)
corn cut off of 3 ears of corn (or 1 1/2 cups frozen corn)
2 cups green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch segments

Melt the butter in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and thyme and cook until the vegetables begin to soften, 6-7 minutes. Add the bay leaf, stock, milk, salt and pepper, and bring the soup to a simmer. Reduce the heat to very low so that the milk does not scald, cover, and simmer until the vegetables are very tender, about 20 minutes.

Add potatoes and corn, and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. With an immersion blender or a potato masher, mash some of the potatoes into the broth to thicken it (this took about 5 seconds with my immersion blender).

Add the green beans and simmer until they are tender, about 5 minutes for French green beans, or a few minutes more for regular green beans. Taste and adjust seasonings, if necessary. Serve hot. Campfire optional.

Jobs for children: Smaller children can peel carrots and potatoes, pull the thyme leaves off the stems, snap the ends off the beans, measure milk and stock, grind pepper. Older children can chop vegetables.

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Velvety Ramp and Watercress Soup with Crispy Shallots

Everywhere I turn these days, I see members of the onion family -- ramps, scallions, chives, shallots, even my garden is popping with onion grass.  This recipe combines delicate ramps with sweet caramelized shallots, and mild, tangy chives.  And the watercress?  Its pepperiness is just one of my favorite flavors.  Spring in a bowl.

 
This recipe is inspired by my friend Andrea's trip to Restaurant Eve last week where she had a ramp veloute.  This soup is smooth, creamy, and delicate.  Yes, it's a bit fussier than a lot of the recipes I post, but I wanted something smooth with pure, clean tastes.  This soup fits the bill.

And those shallots on top are so good, they could top anything.  In fact, you may want to make some extras to have on hand.  And I'm not the only one who loves them.  Check out this homage to "crispies" from another mom dedicated to cooking with her kids at dash and bella.

Ramp and Watercress Soup with Crispy Shallots 

This soup has a delicate flavor so be sure to use a wine that you love and good quality stock.

Serves 4
10 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
1 1/2 cups diced ramps
3 cups coarsley chopped fresh watercress
1 cup dry white wine
4 cups vegetable stock
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup cream
2 large shallots
canola oil for frying
chives for garnish

Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in a medium stockpot.  Add the ramps and cook for 1 minute.  Add the watercress, white wine, and vegetable stock and bring to a boil.  Let the mixture simmer for about 10 minutes, until the flavors have been well-incorporated and the liquid has reduced significantly.  Puree the mixture with an immersion blender (it will remain quite chunky).  Pour it through a sieve, mashing the vegetables against the sieve to remove all of the liquid.  Discard the vegetables and reserve the liquid.  Return the liquid to the pot and keep it hot while you make the roux.

In a separate stockpan, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter over low heat.  Whisk in the flour and stir for about 2 minutes until the flour is completely blended, but don't let the mixture deepen in color.  Remove the roux from the heat.

Add the hot vegetable liquid all at once, and whisk until the roux is completely incorporated.  Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a boil.  Boil for one minute, whisking continuously until smooth.  Set aside while you fry the shallots.

To fry the shallots, heat the oil over medium-high heat in a small, deep saucepan.  Peel the shallots and cut them crosswise.  Separate the rings so that they look like the tiniest onion rings you have ever seen.  Prepare a plate with newspapers topped with paper towels to drain the shallots when they are done. 

To test the oil to see if it is ready, toss in a small piece of shallot.  If it sizzles and begins to turn golden, the oil is ready.  Remove the test shallot, and add the other slices (the shallots should not be too crammed into the pot, so, depending on the size of your pot, you may want to do this in more than one batch).  Fry until the shallots are golden brown.  Don't wander too far because if the oil is hot enough, they will be ready in a minute or two.  Remove the shallots with a slotted spoon and drain them on the paper towels.

Just before serving the soup, add the cream and gently heat it.  Serve in individual shallow bowls topped with the crispy shallots and a few chives snipped over the top.

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Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup

Matzo ball soup is one of those quintessential comfort foods that seems like it should be able to cure anything.  Well, maybe not anything, but definitely a cold or a heartache.  Usually it is made with chicken, though, making it a no no for vegetarians. 

Of course we needed to remedy that by making a vegetarian version.  The leeks in this recipe give the broth a rich flavor and the egg in the matzo balls adds a hint of chicken-y flavor.  It's not quite like the rendered chicken fat of the original version, but it is robust and warming.  To add flavor to the matzo balls, I add leeks and parsley to them.  The soup gets even better as it ages, and, if possible, I make it a day before I plan to eat it so that the flavors have a chance to develop overnight.

 

This soup has become one of Olivia's favorites and if we go too long without making it, she reminds me to put it back in the dinner rotation.  Now that she's into those double digits I'm sure there are inevitable heartbreaks ahead.  I hope not too many, but when they come, I'll be ready with my box of matzo meal.

Second Helping: Cuban Black Beans

 

Vegetarian Matzo Ball Soup

Serves 6
20 minutes preparation time
approximately 60 minutes cooking time

This soup is even better after it has rested for a day.  If you make it in advance, either wait to cook the matzo balls or cook them and store them separately from the soup or they will swell to gargantuan size.

For both the soup and the matzo balls:
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cups chopped leeks, white and green parts only (about 3 medium leeks)
1/3 cup fresh chopped parsley, divided

To finish the matzo balls:
4 large eggs
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup matzo meal
1 teaspoon salt

To finish the soup:
1 large onion, diced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 celery stalks, diced
1 large red pepper, diced
4 medium carrots, scrubbed and diced
8 cups water, or 3 bouillon cubes and 8 cups of water
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 cups green beans, cut into 1-inch segments

In a large soup pot, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat.  Add the leeks and cook until they are soft, about 5 minutes.  Remove about 1/4 cup of the leeks and set them aside.

To make the matzo ball mixture, in a small bowl, beat the eggs lightly, then add the 4 tablespoons of olive oil and mix again.  Add the matzo meal, salt, the 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley, and the 1/4 cup of leeks that you set aside.  Mix thoroughly.  Cover and refrigerate until the mixture firms up, at least 30 minutes.

While the matzo mixture is chilling, work on the soup.  To the leek pot, add the onion, garlic, celery, red pepper, and carrots.  Cook until the vegetables begin to soften, about 7 minutes.  Add the stock or water and bouillon and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. 

Bring a wide-bottomed pot of water to a boil.  Meanwhile, with moistened hands, roll the matzo mixture into balls about the size of golf balls.  The mixture should make 15 to 16 matzo balls.  Drop the matzo balls into the water, cover and simmer over low-medium heat, stirring occasionally, until they are firm and uniform in color, about 20 minutes.  Remove them from the water with a slotted spoon.

When the matzo balls have cooked, add them to the soup pot along with the green beans and remaining parsley.  Simmer until the green beans are tender, about 5 minutes.  Serve immediately.

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Creamy Lettuce Soup

 
I know that it sounds odd to cook lettuce, but please keep reading.  We cook spinach and lots of other greens, after all.  And watercress soup is a classic.  Years ago when I worked at a French restaurant outside Philadelphia (The Spring Mill Cafe, and it's still there!), this was a regular item on the menu.  It was delicious and a great way to use up leftover salad greens.

 
Our children love thick potato-based soups, and this one was no exception.  When I'm not sure whether the kids will like something new, I usually have them play a game to guess the ingredients.  They have to taste the dish to guess what's in it, and by the time they have guessed any unusual ingredients, they have already had a bite or two and aren't influenced just by knowing what's in the bowl.  I'm not above a bit of trickery.  In this case, the children thought the soup tasted like potato-leek soup, although I find that it has a sweetness that differentiates it. 

This is an easy dish to throw together, too, and we often have the ingredients on hand to make it.  The technique of mixing in a couple of egg yolks to thicken the soup comes from Julia Child's Mastering the Art of French Cooking.  The eggs also add a bit of protein.  We have eaten this soup as a main course with salad and bread to warm us up on cold winter's nights.  It even sustained us through a snowstorm or two.

Creamy Lettuce Soup

This recipe is a great way to use up wilted lettuce or those outer leaves that have seen better days.  don't use anything brown or slimy, though, as that will give the soup an off flavor.

3 tablespoons butter
3 cups chopped onion (about 3 medium)
2 tablespoons flour
3 cups diced potatoes
6 cups vegetable stock or 1 bouillon cube and 6 cups of water
1/2 teaspoon salt
6 cups chopped lettuce
2 egg yolks (save the whites to make meringues)
1/2 cup milk or cream

Melt the butter in a large soup pot over medium-high heat.  Add the onion and cook until it has softened, 7 or 8 minutes.  Add the flour and stir until it has been fully incorporated.  Add the potatoes and stir to coat them with the butter.  Add the salt, and vegetable stock or bouillon cube and water.  Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are soft, 15 to 20 minutes. 

Add the lettuce.  Cook until the lettuce is completely wilted but still green, about 5 minutes.  Puree the soup with an immersion blender.

Just before you are ready to serve the soup, whisk together the egg yolks and milk or cream.  While whisking, add a few ladlefuls of the soup and incorporate the egg mixture completely.  Add the egg-soup mixture back into the soup pot and stir it in.  If necessary, warm the soup over low heat, but do not allow it to simmer.  Serve hot.

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Cauliflower Soup with Stilton

 
I have been getting my Bon Appetit these days, which the publishers at Conde Nast seem to think will placate me since they decided to close Gourmet.  Unfortunately, it has the opposite effect.  I just look at that magazine each month and think of what I'm missing.  The pictures are not as exciting and neither are the recipes or stories.  I still read some of it, but it just doesn't give me that same jolt of inspiration that I got from Gourmet.

Fortunately, Gabe gave me the new Gourmet cookbook, Gourmet Today, for Christmas.  We recently had a dinner party using only recipes from the book.  This soup was one of our favorites.  Stilton has a mild flavor for a blue, and the amount in this recipe is just right so that it does not overpower the cauliflower. Even Oscar and Chloe, who normally would not eat a piece of blue cheese if it rolled onto the plate in front of them, lapped up this soup.  For those -- like me -- who love blue cheese, a few more crumbles of Stilton on the top is delicious.

The recipe also calls for white pepper.  You might be tempted to substitute black pepper if you don't have any on hand and I'm sure that would be delicious, too.  But I encourage you to try the white pepper.  It has a distinctive flavor that complements the cauliflower nicely.

With more than 1,000 recipes in Gourmet Today, I think I can keep myself occupied for quite a while.

Cauliflower Soup with Stilton
Adapted from Gourmet Today

Serves 6 as a main course
25 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

4 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium onions, finely chopped
4 celery stalks, strings removed, and finely sliced
1 medium cauliflower, cut into approximately 1-inch florets
2 bouillon cubes plus 4 cups of water or 4 cups of vegetable stock
2 cups whole milk
2/3 cup crumbled Stilton, plus more for serving
1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Heat the butter in a large soup pot over medium heat.  Add the onions, celery, and cook until the onion and celery have softened, about 10 minutes.  Add the cauliflower, milk, and stock or water and bouillon and bring to a simmer.  Cover the pot and simmer until the cauliflower is soft, about 25 minutes.  It should fall apart easily when you poke it with a fork.

Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until it is very smooth.  About 10 minutes before you are ready to serve, heat the soup over medium heat.  Add the 2/3 cup of Stilton, salt, and pepper.  Taste and adjust the seasoning, if needed.

Serve with a few more pieces of Stilton crumbled on the top for any one who would like it.

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Coconut-Laced Butternut Squash Soup

It's been cold around here.  I mean bone chillingly cold.  We've had those high winds that get under the pants leg, up the sleeves, and down the collar.  And of course it's so hard to keep that nose warm.  In this weather, when I get home from work, I just want to put my pajamas on, eat a bowl of soup, and stay in the warm cocoon of our house.

This soup is perfect for the season because the coconut gives it a hint of the tropics and the basil adds a touch of summer.  You can still find butternut squash at the farmers' markets if you are brave enough to venture out there.  Gabe went last week (hmmmm, how did I get out of that one?) and the farmers all thanked him for being there.

The soup doesn't take long to make.  Get everything going and then, while it simmers, go put on those pajamas.

Coconut-Laced Butternut Squash Soup

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

1 tablespoon canola oil
1 cup chopped shallot
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 teaspoons ginger, finely minced
1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed (about 5 cups)*
2 small potatoes, peeled and cubed  (about 2 cups)
1 can coconut milk
1 teaspoon salt
15 fresh basil leaves, torn into pieces
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat.  Add the shallots, garlic, and ginger and saute for 2 to 3 minutes.  Add the squash and potatoes and stir for about a minute.  Add the coconut milk, 3 cups of water, and the salt.  Cook until the vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes.  Puree with a hand blender.  Add the basil and lime juice, stir, and serve.

*Butternut squash can be a bit slippery to handle.  My favorite way to cut them is first to slice a small bit off the bottom and the top.  Set the squash upright on a cutting board and with a large, sharp knife cut through it from top to bottom.  Scoop out the seeds.  Peel each half.  Cut each half in slices cross ways and then in the other direction to make cubes.

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Borlotti Bean Minestrone

We had just enough snow this past weekend to help me switch gears from Thanksgiving to the upcoming holidays.  Usually when snow is in the forecast, the whole town gets worked up only to get a few flurries.  But this time, the kids took all the necessary steps.  They wore their pajamas inside out, put spoons under their pillows, and put ice cubes in the sink (apparently, they are supposed to get flushed down the toilet, but in this old house with its many plumbing quirks, Gabe decided that a slow melt in the sink would be safer).  And the snow came.  It was not much, but it was enough for a bit of sledding, a few snowballs, and a tiny snowman.  It got all of us excited and in a winter mood.

We celebrate Christmas, and for the last few years we have headed out to the country to cut down our own tree.  We have tried a few different farms over the years, but this year we went back to Maynes which has a big selection, but still feels like a family farm.  The ground was very muddy, but once Olivia said that it looked like chocolate butter cream, we all liked it a lot better.  A few turns at the saw for each of us, and we had ourselves a beautiful tree.  In fact, Gabe and I thought it was the best tree we have ever had, but apparently the kids have heard that before.

This minestrone is perfect for a day of sawing trees, chopping wood, or playing in the snow.  Or even a day staying inside playing games, for that matter.  It is hearty, filling and delicious.  I used borlotti beans that I had gotten from Rancho Gordo, but you could easily substitute kidney or even cannellini beans.  It takes a bit of chopping up front, but the rest of the cooking time it just simmers and you only need to give it an occasional stir.

"Minestrone" is a derivation of the Italian word "minestra" which means soup.  The -one suffix usually means big, so a minestrone is a bigger, heartier soup, with less broth.  I asked Gabe about other Italian -one words.  A calzone is a large calza (sock).  Tortellone are large tortellini.  You get the idea.  And how interesting that Al Capone (his given name as far as I can tell), was one of the biggest mafia bosses, or capo, of all time. 

From snow to mafia bosses.  My mind does wander, doesn't it?

Borlotti Bean Minestrone

Serves 6
30 minutes preparation time
Approximately 3 hours cooking time

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium onion, minced
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 celery stalks, chopped
3 carrots, chopped
3 potatoes, chopped
1 cup dried borlotti beans or 2 15-ounce cans kidney beans or 1 cup dried kidney beans, soaked overnight
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes with their juice, preferably San Marzano, chopped
1 parmesan rind (optional)
1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, plus more to taste
2 cups frozen peas
1 Savoy cabbage, finely sliced
1 cup uncooked rice
6 fresh sage leaves, chopped
10 fresh basil leaves, chopped
freshly grated parmesan cheese for serving

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large soup pot and add the garlic, onion, parsley, celery, carrots, potatoes, borlotti beans, tomatoes, and parmesan rind.  Stir for a couple of minutes to coat the vegetables with oil.  Add 10 cups of water and bring it to a boil.  Lower the heat, cover, and let the soup simmer for at least 2 hours, stirring occasionally.  Add the cabbage and peas and cook for about 15 minutes.  Add the rice and cook until it is tender, about 20 minutes.  Stir in the sage and basil and serve immediately.

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Caldo Verde (Portugese Potato and Kale Soup)

I don't know about you, but after the heavenly excess of this past weekend, my pants are feeling a bit snug.  I need some simple food, and what better to satisfy that need than soup.  This soup only has four ingredients, but they are in perfect balance for a pure, nourishing meal.  I find it fantastic on a cold, rainy night, or when I feel a cold coming on.  The kale tastes fresh and green and adds to the soup's restorative powers.  It's also extremely easy and quick to make so it will give you a break if you have been spending a lot of time in the kitchen.

My mother learned to make this soup when my father was posted in Portugal in the mid-70s.  She made it many times when we were growing up, and now it is comfort food for me.  The Portugese sometimes make it with sausage, but we never did, and it's delicious as it is.

For some reason both of my girls will eat kale.  Even Chloe, who turns up her nose at food most kids love--trying to make a cookie that girl will eat is quite a challenge--laps up this soup.  And while I was cooking, Chloe entertained herself with the potato peels, starting with a nest and progressing to a face with eyebrows.

 
I'm still working on getting Oscar to like caldo verde, but maybe after a few more bowls, he will see the light.  As for me, it is exactly what I need to get myself in shape before I start that holiday baking.

Caldo Verde

The flavors of this soup are very mild so it will be best if you use fresh kale, sufficient salt, and a tasty olive oil.

Serves 6
10 minutes preparation time
25 minutes cooking time

3-4 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed
5 cups kale, stems removed and finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons good quality olive oil

Put the potatoes in a medium-sized soup pot and cover them with water by about 1 inch.  Bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook uncovered until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.  Mash the potatoes into the water.

About 10 minutes before you are ready to serve the soup, add the kale and the salt.  Cook the kale for 4 to 5 minutes or until the greens are tender but still retain a bit of crunch.  The soup should be thick but if it needs more liquid, add a bit more water.  Add the olive oil.  Taste for seasoning and add more salt, if you like.  Serve hot. 

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Purple Cauliflower Soup

If you saw the pictures from my Buy Local post, you know that we found some bright purple and orange-yellow cauliflower at the Silver Spring farmers' market.  Chloe carried the purple one home in her little backpack.  Apparently both of these colors are naturally existing cultivars, not the result of some mad scientist's genetic engineering.  The children were immediately drawn to the bright colors;  although I love the color as a color, the idea of eating something this bright color took a bit of getting used to for me.

We have bought these fabulously colored cauliflower a few times now and eaten them roasted and in a salad with lemon and pine nuts.  The children love roasted cauliflower, but weren't crazy about the salad.  This soup on the other hand, envisioned and executed by Gabe, was a success.  It was delicately flavored, creamy and delicious. 

We topped it with a dollop of creme fraiche and some chopped chives.  It was the first time that the children tried creme fraiche and it was a big hit.  They also loved snipping their own chives on top of the soup.  They held the bunch of chives in one hand and used scissors to snip the chives.  I don't know if it is the act of snipping or the mild taste of the chives, but they all wanted to add them to their soup. 

Gabe had planned to serve the soup cold, but by the time it was done, we didn't have time to let it cool; we ate it hot.  The creme fraiche melted into the soup, which was quite yummy.  In the cooking process, the cauliflower turned from a deep purple to lavender, which I think was a big part of the appeal for the kids.  Chloe spooned up this soup in record time, and the other two also cleaned out their bowls.  Once we got over our reluctance to eat purple food, Gabe and I loved it too.

Purple Cauliflower Soup

If you don't have purple cauliflower any other color would make an equally delicious soup.

Serves 5
10 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, sliced thinly
1 shallot, sliced thinly
1 cauliflower, preferably purple, washed and cut into small florets
1 bay leaf
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 teaspoon salt
a few grinds fresh pepper
1 cup milk
creme fraiche for serving
chives for serving

Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat.  Add the onion and shallot and saute them until they have softened, about 6 or 7 minutes.  Add the cauliflower and saute for a few minutes, until the cauliflower just begins to soften.  Add 4 cups of water, the bay leaf, thyme, salt, and pepper.  Cover the pot and bring to a gentle boil.  Remove the lid and simmer until the cauliflower is tender, 20 to 25 minutes. 

When the cauliflower is finished, remove the bay leaf and thyme sprigs (if you used fresh thyme).  Puree the soup with a hand blender.  Stir in the milk.  If you are eating the soup cold, refrigerate it now.  If you would like to eat it hot, return the soup to the stovetop, add the milk, and heat it over low heat until the soup is heated through.  

Serve the soup into bowls and top with the creme fraiche.  Let children snip chives over their own servings, if they like.

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Potato Leek Soup

I got home from work one day last week completely worn out.  It had been one of days in one of those weeks.  I was tired, grumpy, and hungry.

When I walked in the door, I could smell something good cooking.  Gabe had made one of our favorites, potato-leek soup.  Not only had he made soup, but he had taken pictures and written down the recipe so that I could post it.  What a man!

As I sat at the dinner table that night sharing this simple meal with my family and talking about our days, I rememberd what is really important to me.  Sometimes I need that reminder. . .  and a good bowl of soup. 

Here's Gabe's recipe for potato leek soup, which our children love.  It is simple and quick.  You needn't peel the potatoes, so there is very little preparation time.  We like this soup thick; add more water to thin it a bit if you like.  When he made it this time, Gabe left the potato chunks big to make the soup more hearty, but you could blend them to a creamier consistency. 

Potato Leek Soup

Serves 5
5 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

3-4 leeks
1 tablespoon butter
2 tablespoons flour
8 medium potatoes, peels on, scrubbed and cut into large chunks
1 bouillon cube (we like Rapunzel brand)
salt to taste

Cut the green tops off the leeks, then cut them lengthwise.  Slice them across into half circles and rinse them carefully in a colander under running water.

In a soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat, add the leeks, and stir.  Cover the pan and let the leeks cook until they are soft, about 5 minutes.  Mix in the flour, cover the pot again, and let the mixture cook for about 2 minutes. 

Add the potatoes, just enough water to cover them (about 4 cups), and a bouillon cube.  Bring the soup to a boil, add a few shakes of salt, cover the pot, and cook until the potatoes are soft, 20 to 25 minutes.  With an immersion blender, puree the soup until it is as smooth as you like. 

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Snow Day Celery Soup

This snowstorm took me completely by surprise. I know it was predicted to blanket the entire northeast, but we have had a number of predictions this winter that did not come true. We kept sleeping with our pajamas inside out, getting our hopes up, only to be repeatedly disappointed. So I was very surprised to see several inches of snow covering the ground and each tree branch this morning. Beautiful!

I wanted to give the children a hot soup for lunch because I knew they would be cold after playing in the snow all morning, but we had not yet done our grocery shopping for the week and we had limited resources. We did have some staples, though, so I decided to make a quick celery soup.  I remember my mother making a similar soup for us on a snowy trip to Colorado, and it was delicious and comforting.

I know celery soup doesn't sound very exciting, but this soup is thick, mild-flavored, and perfect after a morning outside. Although I got a few  initial protests -- "I don't want soup" -- in the end, each child ate three bowls.

Snow Day Celery Soup

Serves 5
5 minutes preparation time
25 minutes cooking time

2 tablespoons butter
5 celery stalks, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
3 medium potatoes, chopped
1 teaspoon dried thyme
salt and pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a soup pot and add the celery and onion. Sauté until the vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes.  Add the thyme and potatoes and stir briefly. Cover the vegetables with water bring the soup to a boil.

After the soup boils, reduce the heat, and simmer until the vegetables are soft, about 20 minutes. While the soup is still hot, blend it with an immersion blender. Add salt and pepper to taste. 

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Roasted Shallot and Buttercup Squash Soup

One of my favorite tastes of winter is a rich, thick winter squash soup. Soup in general is a wonderful thing when the air is cold and the sky is gray, but squash soups have the further benefit of adding a splash of color to the day. 

Our children can be reluctant to try a new soup, but they are more willing to try a dense soup, one that is almost a purée, rather than a thinner, broth-based soup. We saw these interesting buttercup squash at the farmer’s market and decided to use them for our soup. 

This recipe is very forgiving in terms of the ratio of the ingredients. If you have more or less squash or like a less garlicky soup, you can easily adjust the amounts to suit your needs.You could also substitute another squash with firm orange flesh, such as butternut squash or pumpkin. 

I decided to enhance the sweetness of the squash by roasting it along with shallots and garlic. Depending on the size of the squash, it can take a little while to roast, but the actual time you need to be in the kitchen working is minimal. And the roasting adds a depth of flavor that you don’t get with simmering or boiling. 

We topped the soup with a drizzle of sour cream and lime, forming the children’s initials to win them over to trying the soup. Heavy cream would be an equally tasty alternative.  The children all appreciated the letters and were eager to try it.  Two out of three even lapped up the entire bowl.

Roasted Shallot and Buttercup Squash Soup

Serves 5
20 minutes preparation time
60 minutes cooking time

3 medium buttercup squash, about 5 pounds
2-3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
5-6 shallots, whole with the peel on
5-6 garlic cloves, whole, with the peel on
1 2-inch by 1-inch sized piece of ginger, cut into 2 or 3 large pieces
1-2 vegetable bouillon cubes
salt and pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons sour cream (optional)
juice from one lime (optional)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Halve the squash and scoop out the seeds.  Brush the cut sides with a tablespoon or so of olive oil and place them face down on a baking sheet.  Place the shallots and garlic in the nooks around the squash and put the sheet in the oven.  Roast until the squash are tender and have browned, between 20 and 40 minutes, depending on the size of the squash.

Remove the squash from the oven, and let them cool enough so that you can handle them.  Scoop out the flesh of the squash from the skin and slip the garlic and shallots out of their skins. 

Heat the remaining oil in a soup pot, add the ginger and cook briefly, for 1-2 minutes.  Add the squash, shallots, and garlic along with any juices from the baking sheet. If necessary, use a bit of water to loosen any roasted pieces that cling to the sheet. Cover the squash with water and add the bouillon. Cook over medium heat for 15-20 minutes. Remove the ginger and purée the soup with an immersion blender.  Taste and add more salt and pepper as needed.

If you’d like to make the sour cream drizzle, put the sour cream and lime juice in a small bowl and whisk vigorously to eliminate lumps. Using a spoon or a small pitcher, drizzle the sour cream mixture over the soup in the design of your choice.

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