Hide the cheese

Dark Chocolate Pecan Cookies

Now that you've read the title to this recipe, is there any way that I convince you that these would make a semi-healthy after school snack?

Here's my pitch. Chocolate has become practically a health food. It has been touted as having all kinds of health benefits, such as lowering blood pressure and helping prevent heart disease. It also reportedly improves cognitive functioning and reduces the incidence of stroke. Some reports claim that it reduces blood sugar and staves off cancer. Here's WebMd's article on the subject, and one from the Cleveland Clinic.




Almost enough to make you want to put down the kale and reach for a piece of chocolate, isn't it?

The recipe also has very little added sugar or butter. Sure, there is some, but if we stick to that adage our mothers taught us, "everything in moderation," it's not too bad.

Still not convinced? Well, then, just go for it. New Years' resolutions were so long ago I can't even remember mine. Besides, if your resolution wasn't "eat more chocolate," it's not too late to change it.

2009: Candied Ginger Scones
2010: Coeur à la Crème
2011: Green Rhubarb Galette
2012: Rhubarb Shortcakes

Dark Chocolate Pecan Cookies

Adapted from Alice Medrich's Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy

Makes 2-3 dozen cookies
20 minutes preparation time
30 minutes baking time

8 ounces dark chocolate (with 60% or greater cacao), coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 cups pecan halves

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Bring a medium-sized stock pot of water to a simmer. Place a heatproof bowl over it and add the chocolate and butter. Stir the chocolate and butter occasionally until they have melted together. Set aside to cool.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, and vanilla. When the chocolate mixture is cool to the touch, add it to the egg and sugar mixture and stir to combine. Stir in the flour mixture. Add the nuts and mix again until they are evenly distributed.

Scoop out generous tablespoons of dough and arrange them on the cookie sheets about an inch apart. Bake for 12 to 14 minutes, until the outside of the cookies is dry and begins to crack. Remove from the oven and let cool.

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Lavender Truffles

Sometimes, you plan to volunteer on a committee at school or in the community, help out a bit, give a few hours of time to a cause.

It starts slowly and you are curious so you ask lots of questions. Everything is new to you and the more you learn, the more there is to learn. You ask more questions and dig deeper, but things still don't fit together. You do research, talk to others, and analyze data. Suddenly, you begin to understand, but you do not like what you have learned. The explanations don't make sense. You analyze, and ask, and brainstorm, and try to find ways to solve the problem, to get the fairest outcome for the most people.

But it doesn't seem to be going your way. There are too many hidden agendas, too many others, advocating for their own interests behind the scenes. You don't know who is making the decisions and aren't sure how to best press your case.

It does not seem fair, and you go from learning to advocating. You write e-mails and letters along with others who feel the same way. You attend evening meetings, go to bed discouraged or optimistic, and wake up again, ready to do more.

It is energizing and hopeful one day, and you enjoy collaborating with others, making new friends and allies. The next day, you are exhausted and defeated, frustrated that so much effort has gotten nowhere.

You think, "in a few days, this will be resolved," but in a few days, it has not ended. You think again, "by next week, it will be over."

And it will be. But it's not over yet, and now you are obsessed.

You are in up to your eyeballs. In for a penny, in for a pound. Giving it your all. Going whole hog.

Which is my way of saying that my plan was to get you this recipe for Valentine's Day, but things have gotten in the way.

It's never too late for chocolate, though. And it is an excellent boost of energy to get you through that meeting, to prop you up for one more e-mail, or to inspire one more brainstorm.

2009: Vanilla Bean Pudding
2010: Chocoalte Shortcake with Blood Orange Sauce
2011: Flourless Chocolate Cake
2012: Chocolate Shortbread Ganache Bars

Lavender Truffles
Adapted from Gourmet

 

Truffles are incredibly easy to make and the result is a delightful little nibble that you can serve at a party, take to a meeting, or package up for a gift.

Makes 2-3 dozen truffles
1 1/2 hours preparation time, plus 1 hour chilling time

6 ounces high quality dark chocolate, chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon lavender
3-4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder

Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Heat the cream in a small stockpot or in the microwave until it is hot, but not simmering. Add the lavender and let it steep in the cream for 10 or more minutes.

Heat the cream again so that it is hot but not to the point of boiling, and pour it through a strainer over the chocolate. Mash the chocolate into the cream with a wooden spoon until it is fully incorporated.

If the chocolate doesn't melt in completely, put a pan of water on the stove top and bring it to a simmer. Set the bowl with the chocolate and cream over the pan of water and stir until the chocolate has all melted. Whisk until the mixture is smooth and glossy. It will not look like a huge amount of the chocolate mixture, but the truffles are small, and they are intense, so there will be plenty.

Put the bowl in the freezer and let it chill for at least half an hour. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. When the chocolate mixture has hardened, scoop out teaspoon-sized portions of the mixture and roll each portion between your hands to form a ball. Don't worry if the ball isn't perfect.

Continue scooping and rolling until you have rolled out all of the truffles and place them on the cookie sheet. If the mixture begins to get so soft that it is melting all over your hands as you roll, return it to the freezer.

When you have finished rolling out all the truffles, put the cookie sheet in the freezer again for 20 to 30 minutes.

Put 2 tablespoons of cocoa powder in a small shallow bowl. Remove the truffles from the freezer. Put three or so truffles in the bowl at a time and swirl the truffles around in the bowl until they are completely coated in cocoa powder. Repeat until all of the truffles are coated, adding additional cocoa powder as needed, one tablespoon at a time.

If you have small paper cups, put one truffle in each; otherwise, layer the truffles in a storage container between sheets of wax or parchment paper. The truffles will keep in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks.

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Anita's Apple Crisp

There are some days when you just need to wallow in it. There are days when the loss or grief that is lurking right under the surface needs to be let out. Normally, you keep it together, moving through the day, talking, doing, even laughing. But it is there. Always.

Maybe you tell someone. Maybe it's a friend or maybe it's someone you barely know who asks you how you are. And you really tell her. Surprise! But instead of running in the other direction, she nods and tells you that she too is carrying a loss. And you cry, but still, acknowledging the hurt feels better than always trying to forget it.

And you realize how many people are walking around with those holes. They are all out there, people who are missing and hurting and wondering how this could have happened.

Some days, you just need to wallow. You hand the kids off to a spouse, you take them to a neighbor, or you lock yourself in the bathroom for a few minutes. Or, maybe, if they are old enough, you tell them that you are sad and that you need some time to sit still.

Then you let yourself feel that sadness, that loss. You think about her and remember her, the conversations you had, her smile, her laugh.

You remember his voice and how he looked when he talked about something he loved. You remember the first time you met and the first time you had a real conversation. You remember a joke he told and an expression that he loved to use.

You remember what it felt like to be with her, how you felt. You walk through those memories, and even though it hurts, you revel in being with her again.

Then you unlock the door, dry your tears, and walk back to join those who are still here. You make something delicious and sit together to eat. Or you talk. Or walk. Or you play a game or read a book.

And even though that hole is still there, you are okay.

2009: Banana Chocolate Chip Snack Cakes (my first recipe ever!)
2010: Robin's Egg Meringues
2011: Molasses Cookies
2012: Mom's Apple Butter

Anita's Apple Crisp

Serves 8
20 minutes preparation time
40-45 minutes baking time

1/2 cup rolled oats
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
pinch of salt
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into several small pieces
2 pounds apples (6 medium), peeled, cored, and diced
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons granulated sugar

vanilla ice cream for serving

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Measure the oats, brown sugar, flour, cinnamon, and salt into a small bowl. Stir them together with a fork. Add the butter and work it into the dry ingredients with your fingers until the mixture looks moist and there are no longer any apparent lumps of butter. Set aside.

Arrange the apples in a 2-quart baking dish. Add the lemon juice and stir. Sprinkle the sugar on top of the apples and stir again. Sprinkle the oat mixture evenly over the apples.

Bake until the the apples are completely soft and the topping is brown and crisp, 40 to 45 minutes.

Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.

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Galette des Rois

Happy New Year! I hope you all had some great times with family and friends over the past couple of weeks.

Our holidays were fun but hectic. My sister, niece, nephew, mother-in-law, and uncle were all in town and having them all here felt so right, so like the crazy big Christmas of my dreams. We had loads of big family dinners, played a thousand games, drank enough wine to make Bacchus proud, and ate whatever we wanted.

My heart is full, but my body is tired. Getting back into a routine for school and work at the end of this week was a challenge. At least the weekend is here again so we can all get a bit more rest.

My stomach feels the most worn out. Three out of five of us have gotten some type of stomach malady. I'm not sure if it's a virus or a case of too-much-holiday, but either way, there has been a peak in the consumption of crackers, rice, and toast.

But before the 12 days of Christmas are finished, we (at least those of us whose stomachs are up to the task) will squeeze in one more treat: the Galette des Rois for Three Kings Day, the day that marks the official end of the holiday season.

The tradition is to bake a bean inside the cake. When serving the cake, the youngest person in the room goes under the table and dictates who gets each piece. The person who gets the bean becomes king for a day.

This recipe came to me from my friend Andrea and it has now become a family tradition. It was the first thing I cooked on our new stove at the end of our kitchen renovation so it has a special place in our family lore now.

Now that the holidays are officially over for us, we can turn to some healthier eating, at least long enough to counteract the effects of the holiday excess.

2010: Pear and Almond Cake
2011: Spiced Roasted Pears
2012: Mom's Apple Butter

 

Galette des Rois

 

Although this cake is not difficult to make, it requires advance planning because the filling has to freeze overnight before baking. I have given precise measurements for the sizes of the filling and the pastry, but you don't need to be too tied to them. The idea is just that the filling will be small enough to fit inside the pastry and the bottom sheet of pastry should be big enough to pull over the top piece of pastry and crimped.

When you assemble the cake, make sure to mark the spot subtly so that you (and only you) know where the bean is. That way, if you don't serve the entire cake at once, you can be sure that someone will still get to be king.

30 minutes preparation time, plus overnight to freeze the filling and 30 minutes to chill
1 hour baking time
Serves 8-10

6 tablespoons butter, softened
7 ounces almond paste
3 large eggs, divided
2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
2 teaspoons flour
1 14-ounce package puff pastry
1 bean

Put the butter, almond paste, 2 of the eggs, lemon zest, and flour in the bowl of a mixer. Mix on low speed until the ingredients begin to blend together. Turn the mixer up to medium and mix until the ingredients cream together into a consistent texture, although it will not be completely smooth because there will be small lumps from the almond paste.

Lay a sheet of parchment orwax  paper on a baking sheet. Turn the mixture onto the paper and with a rubber spatula, spread it into an 8-inch round circle. Cover with another sheet of parchment or wax paper and freeze overnight. If the puff pastry is frozen, put it in the refrigerator now so that it can overnight.

When you are ready to bake the cake, remove the pastry from the packaging and unfold it onto a lightly floured counter. Cut it in half. Roll half on the floured counter until all sides measure at least 10 inches.Trim the pastry so that a 9-inch circle remains. Save the scraps. Transfer the pastry to a baking sheet with sides or a jelly roll pan.

Remove the filling from the freezer, unwrap it, and lay it on top of the puff pastry. Place a bean on top of the filling.

Roll out the second piece of pastry into a 9-inch circle. Transfer it to the top of the filling. Gently pull the bottom piece of pastry up over the top piece and crimp it tightly together. Make a subtle mark where the bean is so that you know where it is. You want as tight a seal as possible so that the filling doesn't leak out as it cooks. Cut a design, such as a crown, and lay it on top of the cake. Use the decoration to mark the spot where the bean is. I like to point the longest prong of the crown towards the bean.

Mix together the remaining egg and a spoonful of water. Brush the cake lightly with the egg glaze (you won't need it all). Put the cake back into the refrigerator to chill for about half an hour.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. After the cake has chilled, bake it at 400 degrees for 45 minutes. If the top starts to get too dark, cover the cake with foil. After 45 minutes, with the cake still in the oven, reduce the temperature to 350 and bake for another 15 minutes. The pastry on top should be golden brown and dry to the touch.

When the cake has finished baking, let it cool for a few minutes before cutting into it.

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Pumpkin Pie

I love that pumpkin tarte tartin, it's true, but still, there's something about the creamy tradition of pumpkin pie. I've just gotta have it on Thanksgiving.

I've been testing and tweaking my pumpkin pie recipe for years, trying to get it just right. To me, the perfect pumpkin pie is smooth and creamy with a crisp crust. It should have all of those great fall spice flavors, but they shouldn't be so overwhelming that you can't taste the pumpkin. I also like just a hint of brightness to add a bit of pop.

Last year, on Food 52, there was a recipe for pumpkin pie from Meta Given's Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking, a book I did not know. The article described the flavor as pumpkin-y, the texture as smooth, and the cooking time as quick. It all sounded good to me. I tried the recipe, but decided it needed a little extra something to bring up the flavors. I added a touch of fresh lemon zest and fresh ginger and it added just that touch of dazzle that I wanted while still keeping the intense pumpkin flavor. Interestingly, that citrus-y flavor receded after a couple of days in the refrigerator so keep that in mind while planning when to make the pie.

I also deviated from the recipe by pre-baking the crust. Although the recipe indicated that the crust did not need to be baked first, I didn't want to end up with a mushy crust, so I did blind bake mine, cutting back the baking time so that the crust didn't get too dark.

Note that this is the same crust as for the sweet potato and cranberry tart, or my un-corny pecan pie, so if you are making more than one pie/tart, you could make both crusts at once.

That's it, my friends. My last pre-Thanksgiving recipe. I hope you find something you like among these recipes and, if you decide to give any of it a go, I'd love to hear any questions or comments you have.

Happy cooking!

Pumpkin Pie

The pumpkin can be roasted up to a week in advance, and the dough for the crust can be made several days ahead. If possible, I would bake the pie on Thanksgiving eve or in the morning so that the crust doesn't lose its crunch.

 Adapted from Food 52 from The Encyclopedia of Cooking by Meta Givens
Serves 8
2 hours and 30 minutes preparation time, which includes 1 hour to prepare and bake the crust
    and 1 hour to roast the pumpkin
20-25 minutes baking time

1 pre-baked tart crust*
1 small sugar pumpkin
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 cup of milk
1/2 cup of cream
2 eggs

additional cream to whip with a touch of sugar and vanilla, for serving

Preheat oven to 425.

Cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds, and lay it face down on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or foil. Roast the pumpkin until it is soft, 45 minutes to an hour. Remove the pumpkin from the oven and let it cool enough to handle. Scoop out the flesh and mash it with a potato masher. The pumpkin can be stored in an airtight container like this for up to a week.

To finish the pie: *Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees and follow the instructions for preparing the pre-baked pie crust, but adjust the cooking times as follows: bake the crust covered for 10 minutes, uncover and bake for 5 minutes. 

Measure 2 cups of the mashed pumpkin into a small sauce pan. Cook it over medium heat for 10-15 minutes until it dries out and becomes fragrant. There is no need to add any water or oil because there is plenty of water in the pumpkin.

Mix the sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, ginger, and lemon zest together in a small bowl and add them to the pumpkin. Mix the cream, milk, and eggs together in a measuring cup and add it to the pumpkin mixture. Whisk until smooth. Pour the filling into the crust and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until there the only jiggle that is left is in the center. If the crust gets dark too quickly, reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Remove from the oven and let cool before serving.

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Pumpkin Tarte Tatin

I'm working up a good obsession for Tarte Tatin. Something about that caramelized flavor with fruit and a delicious flaky crust makes me go weak in the knees.

I posted a recipe a while back for pear Tarte Tatin, but with Thanksgiving on the horizon, I thought I should try pumpkin.

I'm glad I did.

You really can't go wrong with caramel. What's not to love about butter and sugar melted together into a sweet golden puddle? It's even better with the pumpkin, which seems to lend itself to those deep caramel flavors.

I know that some people are a bit intimidated by making caramel or Tarte Tatin, but there really is no reason for that. It's quite straightforward.

There are a two points during this recipe that may seem daunting, namely trying to peel that little pumpkin and flipping the tart onto the serving plate. But that pumpkin is way smaller than you are and once you get going you will have it peeled in just a few minutes. And flipping the tart really just takes more courage than skill. Take a deep breath, flip fast, and you will be fine.





Just clear your  mother and small children out of the kitchen before you start on the off chance that an epithet or two flies out of your mouth.

When you're done, you will feel incredibly satisfied by the beautiful tart that you have created. And, most importantly, your taste buds will thank you.

Pumpkin Tarte Tatin

The Tarte can be made a day or two ahead and kept, wrapped in plastic wrap, in the refrigerator. Warm the Tarte on a cookie sheet for about 20 minutes at a 300 degree oven just before serving.

30 minutes preparation time, plus an hour to bake the pumpkin and 30 minutes to chill the dough
approximately 40 minutes cooking time

For the dough:
1 1/3 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, frozen or chilled and cut into about 10 pieces*
1 egg

For the filling:
1 small sugar pumpkin
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
vanilla ice cream for serving (optional)

First, cook and prep the pumpkin: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut off the top of the pumpkin with a serrated knife. Wrap the pumpkin in foil and bake until it begins to soften, about 40 minutes.

Remove the pumpkin from the oven and carefully unrap the foil. When the pumpkin is cool enough to handle, cut it in half from top to bottom and scoop out the seeds. Peel off the skin with a potato peeler. At first, this will seem nearly impossible because the skin is quite hard. Persevere. Once you get going, you will conquer that little pumpkin and the peel will be off in a couple of minutes. Slice the pumpkin into half inch sections from top to bottom. The flesh will be easy to cut but still quite firm.

While the pumpkin is cooking, make the dough: *You have two options here for making the dough. You can use the traditional food processor approach or a new technique that I just learned from Amanda Hesser at Food52. For Amanda's approach, whisk the flour, confectioners' sugar, and salt together in a medium-sized bowl. Using a stick of frozen butter, unwrap one end and grate it on the largest holes of a box grater. The butter will curl off into small shavings. Keep unwrapping the butter and grating until you have grated the entire stick. Add the butter to the flour mixture, crack the egg on top, and lightly scramble it. Mix everything together with your hands, breaking up any large pieces of butter. Push the dough into the shape of a ball and smash the ball onto the counter. All of the flour may not incorporate at this point, or the ball may crumble apart, but stick with it. Smear the ball across the counter to evenly incorporate the butter. As you do this, work in any flour that didn't incorporate initially. Just do this for as long as it takes to work in all the flour; don't overwork it.

To make the dough in a food processor, pulse the flour, confectioners' sugar, and salt together in a food processor. Add the butter and pulse until the butter ranges in size from that of a small pebble to that of cornmeal. Empty the flour mixture into a bowl, and crack the egg on top. Lightly scramble the egg and then, using your hands, work it into the dough until the dough starts to come together.

Roll the dough into a ball, and then flatten it into a disc. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes and up to a couple of days.

Assemble and cook the tart: When you are ready to cook the tart, turn the oven to 400 degrees. 

Unwrap the dough and roll it out into a circle that is an inch or two larger than the diameter of your pan.

Heat the butter in an 8 or 9-inch oven-proof skillet over medium heat. When the butter has melted, stir the sugar and salt into the butter and spread them evenly across the pan. 

Add the pumpkin slices one next to the other around the pan. Once you have finished the first layer, fit as many additional slices as you can in a second layer, filling in the gaps between the pumpkin pieces from the first layer. Squeeze in as many as you can because they will reduce slightly in size as they cook. Cut a few sections to fit into the middle of the tart.

Turn the heat up to medium-high and cook the pumpkin until the sugar turns a rich, dark brown and bubbles, about 5 minutes. Rotate the pan if needed to ensure that the sugar browns evenly. Sprinkle the vanilla over the top of the pumpkin and remove the pan from the heat.

Lift the dough with a spatula or a rolling pin and carefully drape it over the pan. Taking care not to burn your fingers, tuck the edge of the dough along the side of the pan. If you have measured accurately, the dough should just fit with a bit extra to slip down into the sides. If you do what I usually do and roll it a bit too big, just squeeze it into the pan. Don't worry if the dough is a bit lumpy because this will be the underside of the tart when you are done. Place the pan in the oven and let it cook until the crust is lightly browned, 25 to 30 minutes. 

Remove the pan from the oven and let the tart cool for 15 minutes or more. Place a large serving plate over the top of the pan. With oven mitts or pot holders, pick up the pan with the plate on top and quickly flip the pan over so that the tart inverts onto the plate. I recommend that you do this over a surface that is easy to clean (or the sink) because more than once a bit of caramel has oozed out of the side as I flip the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature, ideally with vanilla ice cream.

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Almond-Oat After School Cookies

I have a love-hate relationship with prepackaged snacks. When ever I see parents who travel with great little bags of snacks I always admire their organization. And our kids love all of those snacks, especially those one-serving protein bars. They are very convenient and were especially great for the kids to take to camp because they don't need refrigeration and are fairly healthy.

But my effort to get the kids to eat them only when on the go and not at home was a losing battle. By the end of the summer, the kids were chewing through protein bars like mice munching through Swiss cheese. And those things are pricey, which is not at all in line with our belt tightening! So basta.

Now I am trying to make something home made for the kids to have when they come home from school. My goal is to prepare something on the weekend in a large enough quantity that it will last through the week. Ideally, my criteria are:

1. Nutritious - the snacks need to stick with them for more than a few minutes and to offer some nutritional benefit. Whole grains, nuts, some protein, there has got to be something of substance.

2. Tasty - the kids have to like the snacks as much as those protein bars or they'll never eat them.

3. Reasonably portable - something that can be eaten in hand, so that it can still be a snack on the go.

I see that third one slipping away quickly. One of our regular snacks has been homemade applesauce and, since that satisfies numbers 1 and 2, I've been going with it. And, at least for now, I'm not too worried about them having some sugar and fat. All of us parents have our own ideas about what kids should and shouldn't have, but my theory is that, in moderation, treats are okay. I am fine with a cookie or two alongside a piece of fruit.

I also worry that if I make the after-school snacks too obviously healthy, the kids won't like the end result and we'll have wasted food languishing on the counter while the kids beg for more goodies from the snack aisle. Maybe I can wratchet down some of the less healthy stuff over time, but for now, I'm sticking with my mantra, "everything in moderation."

I realize that getting nutritious and tasty into the same snack might be a bit tricky. Generally, I'm not a fan of sneaking helathy foods by my kids because I'd rather that they learned that they like healthy foods. But I'm not above a few tricks.

Chloe refuses to eat anything with nuts in it. She's not allergic and she will eat them raw, but she just doesn't want them in her baked goods. Fair enough. For these cookies, I used almonds and oats, but ground them so that they would not be detectable. I also used whole wheat flour and mostly brown sugar.

The cookies are chewy and moist, and the little bits of almond and oats add something to chew on so they seem to last a bit longer. They made a great snack, along with some sliced honeycrisp apples.

And from Miss Chloe?

"Momma, these cookies are so delicious!"

Whew.

2009: Oatmeal Chocolate Chip After School Cookies
2010: Chocolate-Hazelnut Macarons
2011: Classic Apple Pie

Almond-Oat After School Cookies

I tried making these cookies with less butter to see how a lower fat version would taste. The shape and texture of the cookies was different. They were more cakey but still tasty. In the end, I decided to stick with the version with more butter because they just tasted more. . . well. . . more buttery. If you decide to go the lighter route, use 1 1/2 sticks of butter instead.

Makes about 5 dozen cookies
30 minutes preparation time, plus at least an hour for chilling the dough
1 hour baking time

1 cup rolled oats
1 cup whole almonds
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 sticks unsalted butter (8 tablespoons or, for a lighter version, as little as 12 tablespoons)
3/4 cup packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 large egg

Measure the oats and almonds into the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until they are chopped into tiny bits. Add the flour, baking soda, and salt and pulse once or twice to combine.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan or in the microwave. Add the sugars and almond extract, and stir with a wooden spoon. Add the egg and mix again until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the dry ingredients and mix just until the dough is evenly moist.

Refrigerate the dough for at least an hour and up to several days.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. Scoop out the dough with a table spoon and arrange about 2 inches apart on a cookie sheet. Bake for about 10, just until the cookies are lightly brown around the edges. Remove from the oven and let cool on a rack.

The cookies may be stored in an airtight container for about a week.

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Peach Cobbler

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes.

Cobbler, Cobbler

Cobbler, cobbler, mend my shoe;
Have it done by half past two;
Is it black or is it brown;
Is it up or is it down?

This rhyme has saved us countless times as we tried to entertain our children during one of those seemingly interminable waits. Like at a restaurant when three seconds after ordering someone asks indignantly, "where is our food!?!" Or while in waiting in line at the post office/grocery store/DMV, trying to keep everyone in line and reasonably quiet. Or fifteen minutes into a long car ride when after the inevitable, "are we there yet?"

We play it as a guessing game. To play, put a penny or pebble in one hand and curl both hands into a fist. As you recite the rhyme, tap one fist on top of the other, alternating which hand goes on top. At the end, others guess which hand contains the object.

As I was perusing the internet to see if there are any other versions of this rhyme, I again realized that perhaps my version is not the original. It is quite different from the others I found which are variations of these:

Cobbler, cobbler, mend my shoe;
Have it done by half past two;
Half past two is much too late!
Have it done by half past eight.

Cobbler, cobbler, mend my shoe;
Have it done by half past two;
Stitch it up or stitch it down;
And I'll give you half a crown;

Or:

Cobbler, cobbler, mend my shoe;
Have it done by half past two.
Stitch it up or stitch it down;
Then I'll walk around the town.

Cobbler, cobbler, mend my boot;
Mend it well to fit my foot;
Stitch it Up or stitch it down;
Then I'll walk around the town.

Maybe our version was adapted by our children's nursery school, Acorn Hill. Whatever the provenance, we still use it from time to time, and the last few times I made cobbler, it raced through my head. The best kind of cobbler, cobbler.

2009: Homemade Ricotta
2010: Peach Macarons
2011: Herbed Ricotta-Feta Spread

Peach Cobbler

This recipe, like peach pie, lets perfectly ripe peaches shine. We are comng to the end of peach season in these parts, and this is an excellent way to use up any you have left. It is also delicious with blackberries instead or a mix of the two.

Serves 8
40 minutes preparation time
30-35 minutes baking time

8-10 medium peaches (about 6 cups cut and peeled)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1/2 cup sugar
1 1/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick unsalted butter, cold, cut into pieces
1/3 cup boiling water
vanilla ice cream for serving (optional, but really, really good)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil or parchment paper.

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the peaches and boil them for about 1 minute. Drain and let cool. When the peaches are cool enough to handle, peel off the skins. Cut the peaches into bite-sized pieces into a medium-sized mixing bowl. Add the lemon juice and stir to coat the peaches. Add the cornstarch and sugar and mix until the cornstarch and sugar are fully incorporated.

To make the dough, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add the butter pieces and mix the butter into the flour with your fingers, working until the bits of butter range in size from grains of sand to small pebbles. Add the boiling water and stir with a fork until the batter is uniformly moist.

Pour the peaches into a pie plate. With a large spoon, scoop the dough over the peaches, making sure to leave lots of gaps (even more than I show in the picture) between the lumps of dough so that the steam can escape.

Slide the pie plate onto the baking sheet and bake until the peaches are bubbling and the top of the cobbler is golden brown, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool slightly and serve, ideally with vanilla ice cream.

Print Recipe

Black and Blue Berry Buckle

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes.

One, two,
Buckle my shoe;
Three, four,
Shut the door;
Five, six,
Pick up sticks;
Seven, eight,
Lay them straight;
Nine, ten,
Do it again.

That was my version, but as with so many nursery rhymes, there seem to be many variations that have evolved over the years. Wikipedia gives this one:

One, two,
Buckle my shoe;
Three, four,
Knock at the door;
Five, six,
Pick up sticks;
Seven, eight,
Lay them straight;
Nine, ten,
A big fat hen;
Eleven, twelve,
Dig and delve;
Thirteen, fourteen,
Maids a courtin';
Fifteen, sixteen,
Maids in the kitchen;
Seventeen, eighteen,
Maids a waiting;
Nineteen, twenty,
My plate's empty.

"Eleven-twelve, dig and delve" sounds familiar, but I couldn't square that with "do it again," which led us to restart the entire rhyme. I don't ever remember getting beyond twelve. I wonder how long it took me to learn how to count to thirteen.

Buckle, slump, crisp, cobbler, grunt, pandowdy. There are many intriguing dessert names. Buckle is a moist, fruit-laden cake with a streusel topping. It is often made with berries, and this version uses both blackberries and blueberries because that is what I had on hand. The sweetness of the blueberries was excellent with the muskiness of the blackberries, but any berry would do.

In addition to their general deliciousness, another great thing about berries is that they require very little preparation. There is no peeling or pitting. It's just a quick rinse and go. The cake is easy to throw together so it's perfect for a weeknight dessert. Or breakfast for that matter.

2009: Peach, Tomato, and Mozzarella Salad
2010: Blackberry-Ginger Jam
2011: Cantaloupe Agua Fresca

Black and Blue Berry Buckle
Adapted from Gourmet

Serves 8 to 10
35 minutes preparation time
approximately 60 minutes baking time

For the topping:
1/2 cup brown sugar
1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon lime zest (from 1 to 2 limes)
4 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into about 10 pieces

For the batter:
1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs
3 cups berries
1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt

vanilla ice cream for serving (optional)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan.

To make the topping, in a small bowl, mix the brown sugar, flour, and lime zest together with a fork. Add the butter and work it into the flour with your fingers, until the mixture ranges in size from grains of sand to small pebbles. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add the vanilla and then the eggs one at a time, beating for a few seconds after each egg.

In a measuring cup or small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Add it to the sugar-butter mixture all at once, and beat until it is just combined. Gently fold in the berries with a rubber spatula.

Pour the batter into the cake pan and level it with the spatula. Sprinkle the streusel over the top. Bake until a toothpick comes out clean, 55 to 60 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Print Recipe

Cognac-Soaked Peaches

The other evening, I planned to make peach sorbet for dinner for friends, but on the way home from the market with my fabulously ripe seconds peaches, I remembered that I had taken the ice cream maker's freezer bowl out of the freezer when the power went out.

And I hadn't yet put it back.

It takes about 24 hours to freeze hard. On to plan B.

Those seconds peaches weren't going to last the day so I wanted something that used them. And then I remembered this beautiful post from Cheryl Sternman Rule at her fabulous blog, 5 Second Rule. Man, that woman can write!



So these are peaches, not figs. And I substituted cognac for ouzo. So what? It still counts.

2009: Mint Limeade
2010: Grilled Peaches with Mint Whipped Cream
2011: Sour Cherry Clafouti

Cognac-Soaked Peaches

The first time I made these, I made the slices too big and it was hard to cut the skins to eat them. So now I recommend cutting them into bite-sized pieces before letting them steep in the cognac. The squeeze of lime juice will help keep them from discoloring.

This recipe is an excellent little quick dish worth having in your repertoire.

Serves 4
10 minutes preparation time, plus an hour or two to sit

4 ripe peaches
4 tablespoons cognac
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
a squirt of lime

Vanilla ice cream, pound cake, or creme fraiche, for serving

Cut the peaches in half and remove the pits. Slice the peaches lengthwise and cut each slice across three times. The result will be bite-sized cubes.

Pour the peaches into a bowl and add the cognac, sugar and lime juice. Stir and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Let sit for at least an hour.

Serve spooned over ice cream or pound cake or with a dollop of creme fraiche.

Print Recipe

White Peach Sorbet

Do you remember growing seasons that hit us leisurely, allowing us to gorge on strawberries and get completely sick of them before cherries hit? Then we ate cherries until our mouths and fingers were deep purple and blueberries came along. Next came raspberries and we had time to get our fill before the peaches, plums, and nectarines hit the markets.

What the heck happened this year?

Strawberries were barely out before they disappeared, I only saw one week of sour cherries, and now it is blueberry-raspberry-plum-peach-nectarine season. I'm assuming that the exceptionally warm spring and summer has gotten us into this predicament.



Or maybe it's old age, it's just me, and time is flying by.

Either way, I'm having trouble keeping up.

As always, though, I was ecstatic to see the first peaches appear at the farmers' market. We will eat lots of them with the juice running down our hands and chins, and we will make pies, and maybe this year I will can some for the winter (suggestions welcome!).

For now, though, we are loving this sorbet because it just tastes like pure peach. A very cold, perfectly ripe, refreshing peach. I plan to stock the freezer with this one.

2009: Purple Raspberry Sauce
2010: Apricot-Blueberry Upside Down Cake
2011: Blueberry Birthday Pie

White Peach Sorbet

I used mostly white peaches for this sorbet because their perfume-y, delicate flavor shines in this pure concoction. But yellow peaches would do just fine.

If I am making the sorbet on the day I am buying the peaches, I ask for seconds at the market because they will be very ripe. If you do this, buy a few extra because you will likely need to pare off some bruised or brown spots.

Adapted from David Lebovitz's The Perfect Scoop
Makes about 1 quart
10 minutes preparation time
20 minutes cooking time, plus a few hours to cool and freeze the sorbet

6 very ripe peaches, preferably white peaches
1/2 cup water
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon rum
1 tablespoon lime juice

Wash the peaches and trim off any bruised spots. Cut them into chunks with the skins still on.

Add the peaches to a small saucepan and stir in the sugar until the peaches are well-coated. Add the water, cover, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Stirring occasionally, cook the peaches until they are very soft and the sugar has dissolved, about 10 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat and set it aside to cool. After it has cooled to room temperature, pour the peach mixture into a blender, add the rum and lime juice, and blend until smooth.

Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and follow the instructions. Freeze the sorbet until ready to serve.

Print Recipe

Rose-Laced Strawberry Ice Cream

We are hot. Very hot.

Lost power, 100-degree temperatures, no refrigeration, no place to charge electronics, no air conditioning. Blah, blah, blah.

Day 1 was great. Everything stopped. Softball was canceled, the pool was closed. We sat on the breezy back porch for hours and read. Some of us dozed. We found an open gas station with a short line and they even had ice. The kids got to see their first grown-up movie -- Moonrise Kingdom -- and we had a whole-family dinner and a movie and Moorenko's ice cream date. Great stuff.

Night 1 was not as fun. All the windows were open but it was probably still in the high 80's overnight and the air was completely still. Not a breeze rustled. I tossed and turned, feeling like a complete wimp for not being able to handle one hot night. And then I looked at Buddy, panting in the corner in his fur coat and felt even more pathetic.

Day 2 was good, too. The pool reopened and we spent the entire day in and out of the water, staying cool. There was more reading and napping and by the end of the day, sitting in the shade in my wet suit, I felt chilled. What a feeling. Dinner was things that needed to be eaten from the refrigerator and freezer. Including ice cream, rose-laced strawberry ice cream, that had melted to the consistency of a milk shake. Still cold enough to be refreshing.

Night 2 was better. Some of us slept in the basement which was less comfortable, but much cooler. The only thing that woke me from time-to-time was the restless, panting dog.

Now we're on Day 3. I have the day off from work and am stealing a few hours of air-conditioned Starbucks wifi to finish this post. The pool is open again and there we share the few outlets to charge our phones and laptops. Pepco tells us that we will have power back by Friday, a full week after it went out.

Today the Katy Perry movie comes out, and the new Spiderman movie is released at midnight-o-one. We will have more air conditioning. And we will never have never been so caught up on the latest movies.

I am feeling grumpy and hot and keenly aware of the privileges of my usual existence that make this few days without power feel so challenging. And I am grateful for the extra time to relax and do very little with people I love, like read and play games and sit around a container of melting ice cream and feel compelled to eat it until it's gone.

2009: Strawberry Preserves, Lemon Optional
2010: Cherry Galettes
2011: Oscar's Tasty and Juicy Strawberry Pie

Rose-Laced Strawberry Ice Cream

 

The rose flavor of this ice cream intensifies as it freezes. I call for 2 tablespoons of rose water in the recipe with the thought that the ice cream would be made at least 1 day before you plan to eat it. If you plan to eat it sooner, you may want to add a bit more.

Makes a bit more than a quart of ice cream
15 minutes preparation time, plus a few hours for the berries to sit and the ice cream to chill

1 quart strawberries (before hulling and cutting)
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon creme de cassis
2 tablespoons rose water
2 cups heavy cream

Rinse the berries, hull them, and cut them in half or quarters. Mash them in a small bowl with the sugar. Add the creme de cassis and rose water and let them sit for about an hour.

Pour the mixture into a blender and add the cream. Pulse a couple of times until the berries are chopped but still a bit pulpy. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and follow the machine's instructions for finishing the ice cream. Freeze until it hardens.

Print Recipe

Rhubarb Shortcakes

You know how your mind wanders and you go from Shakespeare to rhubarb to crossdressing?

Sometimes you are just sitting, innocently minding your own business, watching your daughter perform in A Midsummer Night's Dream. Just watching, soaking in her enthusiasm and joy, watching her recite lines that you saw in the beat up script that she carried around for months but didn't mean much to you on the page. Now listening, hearing those words come to life.

Then you hear it: "rhubarb-rhubarb-rhubarb-rhubarb-rhubarb."

What the?

But there it is, clear as day, "rhubarb-rhubarb-rhubarb-rhubarb-rhubarb." Two characters, mumbling, saying that word of all words.

And not just any characters, mind you. It is one boy playing a boy playing a girl and another boy playing a boy playing a boy, mumbling through a girl playing a boy playing a wall. And it gets you thinking about how Shakespeare only used male actors to play all the roles so that there was lots of crossdressing going on. And you think how much funnier it is to watch those gender roles all scrambled than it would be if it were just boys playing boys, girls playing girls, and walls playing walls.

And in a way, you think, Rhubarb is a very Shakespearian vegetable. Sure, tomatoes are botanically fruits that we more commonly treat as vegetables (as are beans, squash, corn, etc., all of whom carry their own seeds within themselves, but for some reason nobody talks about them being fruits).

But I can't think of any other vegetables that masquerade as fruits. Rhubarb, then, is special.

Also, rhubarb is delicious. Even all by itself as the star of the show.

Your mind does wander like this, too . . . doesn't it?

2009: Candied Ginger Scones
2010: Monday Rhubarb Streusel Cake
2011: Green Rhubarb Galette

Rhubarb Shortcakes

Inspired by Anne Dimock's recipe for Straight-Up Rhubarb Pie on Food 52

The individual components for the dessert can be made several hours in advance and assembled just before serving. When I served these on Saturday, I halved this recipe and also made a separate strawberry topping for those who wanted a more traditional dessert. I used about a quart of strawberries, and loosely followed this recipe. Most of us opted for open-faced shortcakes with strawberries on one side and rhubarb on the other.

Serves 12
35 minutes preparation time
15 minutes baking time

For the shortcakes:
2 cups unbleached white flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons sugar
5 tablespoons butter, cut into pieces
2/3 cup milk
cream for brushing (a tablespoon or less)

For the rhubarb:
5-6 cups rhubarb, trimmed, washed, and diced (about a pound)
1/4 cup sugar
small pinch cinnamon
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

For the whipped cream:
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 425 degrees and line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. 

To make the shortcakes, sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar in a large bowl  Mix in the butter with your fingers, mashing it into the flour until the mixture is the texture of coarse cornmeal.  Slowly stir in the milk a bit at a time, using just enough to get the mixture to hold together.  Knead the dough for about a minute.  Roll it into a ball and flatten it into a disk.

Flour a work surface and roll the dough out until it is approximately 1/2 inch thick. Cut it into 2-inch rounds (or hearts or diamonds...).  After you have cut one batch, re-roll the dough and cut again. When you are left with small scraps, shape them into a final disk. It will be lumpy, but it will still taste good. Arrange the shortcakes on the cookie sheet and brush them with a bit of cream. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, just until the cakes turn a pale gold color. Remove them from the oven and set them aside to cool on a rack.

Toss the rhubarb, sugar, and cinnamon together in a small saucepan. With the lid on, heat the rhubarb over medium-low heat until the rhubarb releases its juices, about 5 minutes. Remove the lid and let the mixture simmer until the rhubarb is very soft, about 15 minutes.

To make the cream mixture, whip the heavy cream, sour cream, sugar, and vanilla together until it is the texture of whipped cream.

When they are cool enough to handle, split them horizontally with a large knife. The shortcakes are firm and this is easier to do than it initially seems it will be.

To serve, place the bottom of each shortcake on a platter. Spoon about two tablespoons of the rhubarb mixture on top, and then layer on the whipped cream. Gently place the cake top on the whipped cream. 

Print Recipe

Bite-Sized Apple Brown Bettys

Sometimes I think our world is shrinking. Before we had children, I thought nothing of driving several hours to New York or Philadelphia for a celebratory dinner with friends. After our oldest child was born, the road trips dwindled, but we still spent a lot of time with friends all over the D.C. area, even if it meant driving an hour for a visit.

In those days, we parents were still in control of our schedules, and we went where our friends were.

But things have changed. I suppose it happened slowly, as we added another two children to the family. But it seems that they have grown suddenly to become individuals in their own right. Now they have interests. They have places that they want to go. They have their own friends to visit. And even with two chauffeurs parents to shuttle them, our weekends fill up with activities and a trip to visit friends, even those in the D.C. metro area, seems impossible. 

These days, we parents are no longer in control of our own schedules, but we have found excellent friends where we have gone. There, on the side of the soccer field or in an overheated cafeteria filled with excited children we have made new friends, some of whom I hope will be friends long after our children are grown and the activities that brought us together are a distant memory.

As our world has shrunk and we have pulled the circle even closer to home, our neighborhood also has become an increasingly important part of our social life. We are blessed with fantastic neighbors. Admittedly, some of them became neighbors by design. My high school friend, a realtor, already lived in the neighborhood and found my sister a house here, too. When we saw a great house for sale in the neighborhood a year later, we didn't hesitate. And a few years ago one of my sister's college friends moved into the area and wisely bought a house two doors down from my sister.

But even those that weren't socially engineered into the neighborhood have turned out to be wonderful neighbors who love to socialize. A few weeks back, some of the more ambitious party organizers planned a progressive party. I volunteered to make dessert because I'm always looking for an opportunity to bake, especially when I don't have to eat all the leftovers.

We decided that to keep things easy, we'd make desserts that didn't need a fork or even a plate, unless of course someone wanted to amass a small pile. I had offered to make something with fruit, but pies and tarts were out. I came across these tiny Brown Bettys on Smitten Kitchen which appealed to me not only because they were tiny, fruity, and cute, but also because the crust was made with slices of bread. Interesting. And a bit easier than making a crust, a shortcut that seemed a good idea for a large scale operation.

I have to admit that I also made these chocolate goodies for the party and they were definitely more popular. But the Brown Bettys were good. Really good. The brown butter gives them a slightly nutty flavor and the tart apples along with the cardamom and lemon dial up the zestiness. Chloe tasted one (just to make sure that they were edible) and said, "These taste like a dream come true."

If our world keeps getting smaller and smaller it will just be us, hanging out at home together. Eating as many Brown Bettys as we want.

I can live with that.

2009:  Blueberry Crumb Cake
2010:  Roses des Sables
2011:  Clementine Sorbet and Teal Toes

Bite-Sized Apple Brown Bettys

Makes about 2 dozen Brown Bettys
30 minutes preparation time
30 minutes baking time

From Gourmet via Smitten Kitchen

for the Brown Bettys:
1 cup melted butter
8 slices white sandwich bread
2 tart apples, such as Granny Smiths
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom
1 teaspoon lemon zest
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
pinch of salt
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
3/4 cup breadcrumbs, preferably homemade

for garnish:
1 cup heavy cream, whipped
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon granulated sugar

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Melt the butter in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Once it has melted, turn the heat to low and, stirring occasionally, let it brown. As soon as the butter starts to darken, watch it carefully. Let it go for about another 30 seconds, until it turns a medium-brown color and smells slightly nutty.

Cut the crusts off of the bread slices. (Save the scraps to make bread crumbs). Roll each slice with a rolling pin to flatten it.

Cut the bread into circles large enough to line the muffin tins, including covering the sides. It may take some trial and error to find the right tool for cutting the circles, but there is sure to be something in the kitchen -- a jar lid, the bottom of a salt shaker, a small glass -- that will be the right size. (Again, reserve the bread scraps for bread crumbs).

Brush each side of each circle with brown butter and arrange the circles into the muffin cups. If the circles tear, patch them with pieces of the scraps, but they need not be perfect. Any flaws will be inconspicuous in the final product.

Peel and finely dice the apples. Toss them with any remaining butter, the cinnamon, cardamom, lemon zest, salt, and bread crumbs. Spoon the filling into the shells so that the filling just rises above the side of the shell. Cover the pan with foil. Cook with the foil on for 10 minutes, then remove the foil and finish cooking until the crusts are lightly brown and the apples are tender, about 15 more minutes.

To make the whipped cream, whip the cream in a mixer. Once the cream begins to thicken, add the sugar and vanilla.

When the Brown Bettys are done, turn them onto a cooling rack. They can be served warm or at room temperature. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream.

Print Recipe

Lemon Cake Squared

I have a new favorite.

At least for now. These things go through cycles, and I'm sure I will change my mind again and again, but for now I'm sure of it. I have a new favorite.

 A new favorite cake, that is.

 Did you think I meant a favorite child? Try as my children might to find out who my favorite really is, I'm not talking. Would you believe me if I said that I didn't have a favorite? I really don't. I find that at any one point in time, one of the three is going through a trying phase and one is going through a particularly easy phase. The other is the wild card.

But those roles are constantly changing. On any one day, one may be driving me crazy and another may be particularly charming. But at the end of the day, when I tiptoe into their bedrooms to peek at them while they sleep (or I think they are asleep!), my heart is incredibly full. All of the joys that each has brought to me come flooding into my mind and I am overwhelmed with gratitude that they are a part of my life.

Really. I do not have a favorite.

Cake is another matter.

Olivia, who loves the tartness of lemons enough to eat them raw, asked for a lemon cake with lemon frosting for her birthday. And in the shape of Mickey Mouse, too, please. If it's not too hard. Ah, yes, I love a good challenge.

To make the cake, I tarted up the basic yellow cake recipe from Cooks Illustrated's The New Best Recipes by adding fresh lemon zest and juice. The cake was moist, with a tender crumb. There was nothing heavy or dense about it. Just light, lemony goodness.

I loved, loved, loved this cake. And I wasn't the only one. Of the 12 children at her party, not one left a bite behind.

 

I gave the Mickey my best shot. My black never gets black enough and my cake decorating skills are not refined, but Olivia was happy. Phew.

2009: Vanilla Bean Pudding
2010: Chocolate Sheet Cake with Brown Sugar Buttercream (still Oscar's favorite birthday cake)
2011: Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies

Lemon Cake Squared

Adapted from Cooks Illustrated's The New Best Recipes
Serves 12-14
45 minutes preparation time, plus time for frosting and decorating
20 to 25 minutes baking time

I have written the recipe as a round layer cake. But to make Mickey I only baked one of the layers in a 9-inch round pan. The remaining batter, I put into smaller round pans (I ended up using 3) so that I could make the ears. The cooking time for the smaller pans was 5 or 10 minutes less than for the larger pans.

Whatever shape you make the cake, I find it helpful to freeze the cake for a short time (15 to 30 minutes) before frosting it. The cake will be firmer and fewer crumbs will end up in the frosting.

For the cake:
4 large eggs
1/4 cup freshly grated lemon zest (about 4 lemons)
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (2-3 lemons)
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 3/4 cups cake flour
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
16 tablespoons (2 sticks) butter at room temperature, cut into tablespoons

For the frosting:
4 tablespoons unsalted butter at room temperature
8 ounces cream cheese at room temperature
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 cups confectioners' sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour 2 9-inch round cake pans.

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, lemon zest, lemon juice, and vanilla. Take out one cup of the egg mixture and set it aside.

Measure the cake flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt into a mixing bowl. Mix on low for just a few seconds until the ingredients combine. With the mixer running on low, add the butter one tablespoon at a time, waiting about 10 seconds after each addition. Mix until the butter and flour form small clumps.

Add the cup of egg mixture that you set aside and mix just to incorporate. Turn the speed to medium-high and beat until the mixture turns lighter in color and becomes fluffy, about a minute. Add the remaining egg mixture and mix to combine. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, and mix until the mixture is fully combined. The batter will look slightly curdled.

Pour the batter into the cake pans and smooth the tops with a spatula.

Bake until the cakes are golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Cool on a rack in the pans for about 10 minutes. Remove from the pans and continue to cool on a rack until completely cool to the touch before frosting.

To make the frosting, use a mixer to beat the cream cheese and butter together on medium speed. Add the confectioner's sugar and beat until light and fluffy. Add the lemon juice and mix again to combine. 

To assemble the cake, place the first layer on a serving tray. If it is not flat across the top, trim a bit of the center off the top with a large knife. Frost the entire cake. Add the second layer and frost again. Garnish with lemon slices.

Print Recipe

Chocolate Shortbread Ganache Bars

For Valentine's Day, I wanted to give you something fantastically chocolatey.

When I saw this recipe from Melissa Clark with her description of a layer of luscious chocolate ganache on top, I knew I had to give it a try. The cookies have shortbread as a base and are topped with ganache, that most luscious and easy-to-make of chocolate treats. Clark writes a weekly column in the New York Times Dining section and her recipes usually look delicious but comforting, the type of cooking that really speaks to me. She also has a new cookbook out, Cook This, Now, which I don't have yet, but it is a book that I need to add to the collection.

I changed things up a bit, of course. My valentine is not a fan of fruit with his chocolate, and Clark had added a layer of cherry jam on top of the short bread. That had to go. I considered and ruled out two other options quickly because Gabe doesn't like mint or nuts with his chocolate either. I thought about adding a bit of coffee, which I think would have worked well, but in the end, I decided to add a bit of bergamot flavor instead. 

Bergamot is the dominant flavor of Earl Grey tea, one of Gabe's favorites. The tea is derived from bergamot oranges, which are actually part of the citrus family. Technically, then, I was violating Gabe's no-fruit-with-chocolate preference, but I thought he might be willing to make an exception for his beloved Earl Grey.

To infuse the ganache with bergamot flavor, I steeped the cream in tea. I used two teabags and the result had just a hint of bergamot. The bargamot flavor was very subtle. Gabe described it as a mild citrus flavor. Next time I make these I will increase the number of tea bags for a more intense flavor. Or maybe I will just eliminate the tea altogether and just go for pure chocolate goodness.

I highly recommend the sea salt, however, because it adds a perfect bit of assertiveness on the tongue to contrast beautifully with the lusciousess of the chocolate.

We couldn't stop at one, and I don't think you will either.

Happy Valentine's Day!

February, 2009: Wee Handmade Valentine Cards
February, 2010: Peanut Butter Chocolate Chunk Cookies
February, 2011: Orange Chiffon Cake

Chocolate Shortbread Ganache Bars

I made these in a larger pan than Clark used because the I wanted a thinner, crisper shortbread to contrast with the ganache. Also, Clark calls for lining the pan with parchment, but I found that the bars came easily out of an unlined, ungreased glass pan.

Adapted from The New York Times
Makes about 20 bars
30 minutes preparation time
20 minutes cooking time, plus 2 to 3 hours for chilling

For the shortbread:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
12 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-sized pieces
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the ganache:
1 cup heavy cream
3 Earl Grey teabags
12 ounces bittersweet chocolate (62% cocoa or more), finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt such as fleur de sel, for topping

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a food processor, pulse together the flour, cocoa, confectioners' sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt. Add the butter and vanilla and pulse again until the butter bits range in size from grains of sand to small pebbles. (Clark's recipe says to pulse until the mixture comes together in one mass. This didn't happen for me, but no matter, the shortbread still was excellent.)

Turn the dough out into a glass 9-by-13-inch pan and pat the mixture in firmly with the flat of a metal spatula or with your hands.

Bake until the shortbread is firm to the touch, about 25 minutes.

While the shortbread is baking, heat the cream in a small pan just until small bubbles appear along the inside perimeter of the pot. Add the teabags and set the cream aside to let it steep. After the tea has steeped for 5 to 10 minutes, remove the teabags one at a time, mashing each on the side of the pan with a wooden spoon to remove all of the concentrated tea flavor.

When the shortbread has finished cooking, remove it from the oven and set it aside to cool.

Meanwhile, put the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Heat the cream again, just until bubbles form at the perimeter of the pan. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let it sit for a minute or two. Whisk together the cream and melted chocolate until the mixture is smooth.

Pour the ganache over the cooled shortbread and smooth it with a spatula. Sprinkle the coarse sea salt on top of the ganache. Cover the pan tightly with plastic wrap and put it in the refrigerator to cool completely, 2 or 3 hours.

When you are ready to serve, cut the bars with a sharp knife. The first one may crumble a bit on the way out, but the others will come out easily.

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Chocolate Bark Three Ways

Normally at this time of year we are baking furiously, making cookies to package up and give away. Along with a bottle of Black Ankle wine, these are our favorite gifts to take along to a party or to give to the wonderful teachers that work so hard throughout the year.

Without an oven, we knew that there wouldn't be any baking this year, but I still wanted to come up with something that we could make and give away, something conjured up by us.

Chocolate bark popped to mind. We have a hot plate, which is all we would need to melt the chocolate. Then we would just need cookie sheets to spread the chocolate and a refrigerator (or freezer) for cooling. It seemed like something that we could manage, even with our rudimentary kitchen.

The great thing about bark, too, is that once the chocolate is melted, it can be flavored in an infinite number of ways. After some discussion, we came up with three flavors to try: dark chocolate with dried cherries and pine nuts, peppermint bark, and dark chocolate with coconut and curry. We fired up the hotplate and in a couple of hours we had a beautiful assortment of chocolate bark. It felt so good to be cooking together again, making something fun and delicious.

Now we just have to find a pretty way to package them up. Any ideas? Presentation is not my strong suit. After we've packaged up our little bundles, we'll make the rounds and hand them out out, my second favorite part of the process.

Second Helping: Homemade Gingerbread Houses
Thirds: Stained Glass Cookies

Dark Chocolate Bark with Pine Nuts and Dried Cherries

Makes 20 to 30 pieces of bark (depending on how small you break the pieces)
15 minutes preparation time
15 minutes cooking time, plus time for chilling

12 ounces dark chocolate (60% cocoa)
1/4 cup chopped dried cherries
1/2 cup pine nuts

Toast the pine nuts by putting them in a skillet over medium heat and tossing them just until they're lightly browned, about 5 minutes.

Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a boil. Turn the heat down to low. Put the chocolate, broken or chopped into large pieces, in a metal bowl and set it on top of the simmering water. When the chocolate has melted, stir in the chopped cherries and the pine nuts.

Turn a cookie sheet upside down and cover it with a piece of parchment paper. Pour the chocolate out onto the parchment paper and spread it evenly over the paper with a spatula. An offset spatula will result in the smoothest finish, but a rubber spatula works just fine, too.

You should end up with a rectangle that's about 10 x 13 inches in size. Put the tray in the refrigerator or freezer to cool. It only takes about 15 minutes in the freezer. When the chocolate has cooled completely, break it into small pieces. Store in an airtight container, between sheets of wax paper until ready to eat or package to give away.

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Curried Dark Chocolate Bark

Makes 20 to 30 pieces of bark (depending on how small you break the pieces)
5 minutes preparation time
15 minutes cooking time, plus time for chilling

Our original idea was to add coconut milk as well, but it separated and we ended up with a mess. On our second go round, we just used the curry with a sprinkling of sea salt on top, and we loved the combination of flavors.

1 1/2 teaspoons curry
12 ounces bittersweet chocolate (70 % cocoa)
pinch sea salt

Toast the curry in a small frying pan over medium heat, just until it is fragrant, about a minute.

Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a boil. Turn the heat down to low. Put the chocolate, broken or chopped into large pieces, in a metal bowl and set it on top of the simmering water. When the chocolate has melted, stir in the curry.

Turn a cookie sheet upside down and cover it with a piece of parchment paper. Pour the chocolate out onto the parchment paper and spread it evenly over the paper with a spatula. An offset spatula will result in the smoothest finish, but a rubber spatula works just fine, too.

You should end up with a rectangle that's about 10 x 13 inches in size. Put the tray in the refrigerator or freezer to cool. It only takes about 15 minutes in the freezer. When the chocolate has cooled completely, break it into small pieces. Store in an airtight container, between sheets of wax paper until ready to eat or package to give away.

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Peppermint Bark

Makes  20 to 30 pieces of bark (depending on how small you break the pieces)
15 minutes preparation time
15 minutes cooking time, plus time for chilling

12 ounces white chocolate
8 candy canes (about 4 ounces)

Take the candy canes out of their wrappers and wrap them in a plastic bag. Wrap the bad in a dish towel and smash the candy canes with a rubber mallet.

Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a boil. Turn the heat down to low. Put the chocolate, broken or chopped into large pieces, in a metal bowl and set it on top of the simmering water.

Turn a cookie sheet upside down and cover it with a piece of parchment paper. Pour the white chocolate out onto the parchment paper and spread it evenly over the paper with a spatula. An offset spatula will result in the smoothest finish, but a rubber spatula works just fine, too. Sprinkle the peppermint bits evenly over the top of the white chocolate.

You should end up with a rectangle that's about 10 x 13 inches in size. Put the tray in the refrigerator or freezer to cool. It only takes about 15 minutes in the freezer. When the chocolate has cooled completely, break it into small pieces. Store in an airtight container, between sheets of wax paper until ready to eat or package to give away.

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The Flu, Good Books, and Ginger-Baked Apples

We have been felled by the flu. I woke up Wednesday morning, went for my early morning walk, showered, and crawled back into bed. And that is where I stayed for the next three days. Olivia followed a day after me, and Chloe the day after that. Somehow the boys have stayed healthy, and as their reward they have gotten to take care of the rest of us.

I'll spare you the details of the down side; I'm sure you have had the opportunity to experience those for yourselves. Surprisingly, though, there have been some up sides. Usually I'm just sick enough to feel miserable and go to bed early, but I'm still shuffling around trying to work and get things done. Having everything grind to a halt has its benefits.

I have enjoyed my times snuggling in bed with Chloe and Olivia and, even though we haven't been healthy, we have had time to talk and giggle.

Gabe and Oscar have been very sweet, preparing and bringing us food and drink, running errands, keeping the day-to-day chores like dishes and laundry under control, and continually checking on us to see how we are doing.

There has also been a certain snow day-like quality to our sick days, too. Our activity has slowed down considerably and we aren't rushing to go anywhere or to do anything. We're staying close to home, focusing on our basic needs, very much in the present, just being, rather than doing.

Finally, I have done more reading in the last 5 days than I have done in a long time. It has been such a pleasure to get lost again and again in the pull of a good book. I'd love to tell you that it was all very highbrow, but sick bed reading should have its own section in the book store. Here's the recap:

- City of Bones by Cassandra Clare - Continuing my indulgence in teen fiction, er, I mean, my efforts to keep on top of what my 11-year old daughter is reading, this is first of the Mortal Instruments series. There were so many werewolves, fairies, vampires, etc., mixed in among the Shadowhunters that I had a bit of difficulty keeping track, but it was definitely a page turner. Maybe I'll do better when I'm reading without a fever. I'd recommend it to others who enjoyed The Hunger Games, Twilight, or Divergent.

- Two Kinsey Millhone Mysteries by Sue Grafton, "A" is for Alibi and V is for Vengeance. I have read some of the other books in this series, but not nearly all of them. It was fun to read the first and most recent books back to back, written nearly 30 years apart. There were some obvious differences (author's picture, loss of quotes in the title, increasing plot complexity) but both were thoroughly enjoyable and fast moving.

- One Year Off by David Elliot Cohen - The subtitle gives a good summary, "Leaving It All Behind for a Round-the-World Journey with Our Children." I would love to take a year off and travel around the world as a family, but the practical side of preparation and financing are a bit daunting. This book definitely has me thinking.

- The Thief by Megan Whalen Turner - Oscar has been recommending this Newberry winner to me for some time. I'm only about halfway through it, but I'm loving the tale of a smart-alec thief who is pulled out of jail by the king's men to steal a precious stone for him.

- The Invention of Hugo Cabret by Brian Selznick - We read this to the children when the book first came out and, with its compelling story about a boy who winds the clocks in a Paris train station and its beautiful illustrations, it ranks as one of my all-time favorites. The children didn't remember it very well, so I wanted to read it again before we see the movie (and to get a sense of whether the movie will be too sad or scary for our sensitive Chloe).

What have you been reading?

Now we are slowly crawling out from under that flu. Our only excursions over the weekend were to see productions by Lumina Studio Theater (the first Act was an adaptation of Trolius and Cressida; the second, an adaptation of Measure for Measure) and the Washington Revels (the music was from Andalusia and the production was my favorite of the shows we have seen).

And we are tentatively making our way back into the world of food again. So far, it's been mostly soups and bland fare, toast, rice, but I'm almost ready to venture beyond that a bit.

If I had an oven, I'd bake some apples as a perfect little treat, or even as an antidote to the riches of the one-two punch of Halloween and Thanksgiving. The technique for baking these apples came from Gourmet, and the result is a baked apple that is still firm and holds its shape, rather than one that melts after being cooked. There is certainly room in this world for both types, but right now I am loving this firmer, chewier texture.

The first time I made these, I used too much ginger (a tablespoon) and the flavor was too strong, especially for the kiddies. I cut the amount back, and this achieves a better balance. Together, the lemon and ginger add a punch of freshness.

They'd be the perfect to serve alongside a good book.

Second Helping: Airy Apple Cake
Thirds: Caldo Verde (Portugese Potato and Kale Soup)

Ginger-Baked Apples

These apples are a simple, delicious dessert as they are, but if you'd like to fancy them up, a dollop of creme frâiche or ice cream on top would do the trick.

Adapted from Gourmet
Serves 6
30 minutes preparation time
45 minutes cooking time

6 medium-sized medium tart apples, such as Ida Reds, Fuji, or Honeycrisp
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Peel the apples and, leaving the apple intact, remove the core with a sharp knife or apple corer. This is a bit tricky without a corer. I found it easiest to slice the core out from one end, then flip the apple over and do the other end. Any little bits of core that remain in the center can be filed away afterwards with the knife, too.

Cut the apples across (latitudinally) into 1/4-inch slices and reform them into whole apples. Brush them with lemon juice.

In a small bowl, whisk together any remaining lemon juice with the lemon zest, ginger, sugar, and vanilla. Divide the mixture evenly among the apples, pouring a bit into the cavity of each apple.

Bake for 25 minutes, removing the apples to baste them with the pan juices two or three times during the cooking process. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake, continuing to baste frequently, until the apples are tender and the sauce has thickened, about 20 minutes more.

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Caramel Apples

We have spent a lot of time these last few weeks getting ready for the kitchen project. We've cleaned, packed, organized, sorted, boxed, and schlepped loads of stuff, way more than I thought could fit in that kitchen and dining room. And we tried to prepare ourselves emotionally, taking a bit of time out to reminisce and honor all of the good times that we had in those rooms.

But still I wanted us to have one last family cooking project before that kitchen went into the history books. We had been apple picking at Larriland Farms and talked about making caramel apples, so one day before the walls came tumbling down, we pushed aside the debris and dusted off a swath of counter top. We stirred and stirred and stirred and twirled and had ourselves a good old time making these delicious apples.

We thought about using the finished apples as Halloween treats for "ghosting" our neighbors, but they were so good that we ended up hoarding them for ourselves.

I will confess that there was one point when I was waiting and waiting for that caramel to get hot enough that I thought I had lost my mind. Why was it that I thought we could squeeze this in to our already extremely busy day? But once I saw how happy the kids were biting into those sweet crunchy apples, I had no regrets. I hope that we will all hold the memory of that evening together for years to come. Even if the apples are long gone.

I found a recipe for caramel apples on 101 Cookbooks that I loved for its simplicity, essentially cream and honey. The honey was excellent with the apples. I tweaked the recipe just a bit, but it would be very easy to do more to it, such as increasing the salt content in this recipe or adding a sprinkling of salt after the apples are removed from the pan and making these Salted Caramel Apples. I'm going to have to give that a try. You could also roll the cooled apples in other toppings such as chopped nuts, coconut, or chocolate chips. We loved them just as caramel apples, simple and pure.

Second Helping: Dinner in a Pumpkin (perfect for Halloween!)
Thirds: Pumpkin Cupcakes with Lemon Cream Cheese Frosting

Caramel Apples

If you'd like to deviate from the classic caramel apple, after the apples have cooled in the refrigerator for a few minutes, add a sprinkling of sea salt or roll the apples in a topping such as coconut, chopped nuts, or mini chocolate chips.

Makes 8 caramel apples
15 minutes preparation time
approximately 1 hour cooking time, plus time for chilling

8 small, tart apples
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup honey
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon salt

other equipment: 8 chopsticks or short, thick skewers

Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Make room in the refrigerator for the cookie sheet and make sure that the refigerator shelf is positioned so that there is enough room above to accommodate the apples with their chopsticks/skewers. Wash the apples and place a chopstick or skewer into the stem end of each one. Line them up on the cookie sheet.

Place a small sauce pan over medium low heat and add the cream. When small bubbles appear at the edge of the pan, add the honey, vanilla and salt and stir with a wooden spoon to fully incorporate the ingredients.

Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat, keeping the mixture at a low simmer. It may take a while to get the temperature of the caramel right so that it simmers and continues to get hotter, but doesn't foam up too high. Continue to heat the caramel, stirring frequently, until it reaches 248 to 250 degrees. This will take a long time, maybe about 40 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool for a few minutes. When the temperature of the caramel has cooled to 190 degrees, dip an apple. The caramel should be liquid enough that it is easy to dip the apple, but thick enough that the caramel doesn't immediately run off. If it is too thin, let it cool a bit more. If it is too thick, place the pan again over low heat and stir for a few seconds.

Carefully dip each apple into the caramel until it is almost completely submerged. Lift it out of the caramel and let it any excess caramel drip off. Turn the apple upright and hold it there for about 30 seconds to give the caramel a chance to set. Roll the apple from side to side, evening out the caramel coating and allowing it to firm up. Place the apple onto the parchment paper to cool. Repeat with the remaining apples.

If the caramel stops sticking to the apples or gets very thick, return it to the heat and just bring it to a simmer. Removethe pan from the heat and begin dipping apples again.

Put the tray of apples in the refrigerator to cool for about 15 minutes. Remove them and, if you like, press any caramel that has pooled onto the tray back onto the apples (we thought it was fine to have a bit of pooling. It leaves the apple with a nice ridge of caramel right on the top when you flip it over to eat it).

Return the apples to the refrigerator to finish cooling. When they have cooled completely, wrap them in plastic wrap or wax paper to store.

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Cooking with Mother Goose: Classic Apple Pie

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes.


Simple Simon   

Simple Simon met a pieman,
Going to the fair;
Said Simple Simon to the pieman,
Let me taste your ware.

Said the pieman to Simple Simon,
Show me first your penny;
Said Simple Simon to the pieman,
Indeed I have not any.

Simple Simon went a-fishing,
For to catch a whale;
All the water he had got,
Was in his mother's pail.

Simple Simon went to look
If plums grew on a thistle;
He pricked his fingers very much,
Which made poor Simon whistle

I only remember the first verse of Simple Simon, but I think of it whenever I make a pie. It also reminds me of our friend Simon, although it is not the most favorable portrayal of a Simon, is it? Maybe someday we can write a new version in which Simon has a bit more fun. (Here's the Three Stooges' riff on it).

When I realized that I had never posted an apple pie recipe on this site, I knew I had to remedy that immediately. I use this site myself as an electronic database of our favorite recipes, and now that it's apple season, I know I will need an apple pie recipe again and again.

This recipe is just a simple pie recipe, but I tried to achieve the right balance of flavors, adding a bit of lemon and cardamom to go along with the more traditional spices. The lemony twist in the filling brightens up the apple flavor. The cardamom adds a bit of tang, too, although it also has an earthiness that complements the cinnamon and nutmeg. The filling was so good that I had to stop myself from eating it before I baked it into the pie.

So here's a simple apple pie recipe for Simple Simon, or anyone else who loves apple pie.

Second Helping: Triple Ginger Zucchini Bread
Thirds: Chunky Apple Muffins

Classic Apple Pie

Serves 8-10
Appriximately 60 minutes preparation time
60 minutes baking time

1 recipe basic pie crust
6 large apples (about 3 1/2 pounds), preferably a mix of varieties such as Honeycrisp, Granny
    Smith, and Jonagold, peeled, cored, and sliced
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 cup granulated sugar, plus 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons unbleached all purpose flour
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Make the dough according to the recipe and put it in the refrigerator to chill.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

Toss the apples in a bowl with the cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, 1/2 cup sugar, and flour. Add the lemon zest and juice and mix thoroughly.

After the dough has chilled, roll out the larger piece of dough and transfer it to a 9-inch pie plate. Scoop the apples into the crust, leaving behind any liquid.

Roll out the second piece of dough until it is about 10 inches in diameter and transfer it onto the top of the apple filling. Trim the edge of the crust to even it out, if necessary.  Fold the edges under and crimp the top and bottom crust together. Cut a few slits into the top crust. Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of sugar over the top of the pie. 

Bake the pie on the bottom rack of the oven for 10 minutes, then turn the oven temperature to 350 degrees and cook for about 50 minutes longer, until the crust is lightly browned and the filling is bubbling.  If the crust begins to brown too quickly, tent a piece of foil over the top.

Let the pie cool for at least an hour to let it set.

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Fresh Figs with Ricotta, Honey, and Pistachios

Some days it all comes tumbling down, that balance that I have so carefully tried to maintain in my life as a working mother.

Some days I can see all my mistakes but feel powerless to stop them. Children are so good at reflecting those flaws back onto us, aren't they?

Some days I feel like everything I am doing is falling short and I am failing as a parent, wife, friend, employee, and most certainly as a housekeeper and laundress.

Yesterday was like that. The children took turns acting up and I could see my mistakes and bad habits in their behavior. Instead of keeping cool and doing some quality parenting, I got mad and lost it. And then I got mad at myself for losing it.

Not a good day.

But today is a new day and it will be different. I hope it will be better, too, but at least it will be different. I will try to learn from yesterday's mistakes and to take a deep breath (or three) before I react.

If all else fails, I will cook my way through my mood. I will make something delicious and beautiful. And I will be prepared with a smile and an understanding shrug if the children won't even touch it.

Secong Helping: Peach Macarons
Thirds: Fig and Port Jam

Fresh Figs with Ricotta, Honey and Pistachio

These figs are equally good as an appetizer or as a light dessert.

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time

9 fresh figs
1/4 to 1/2 cup ricotta (if you're local, I love Blue Ridge Dairy's)
a few drizzles of honey
2 tablespoons pistachios, toasted and chopped

Slice the figs in half from top to bottom. Arrange them on a serving plate with their cut sides facing up.

Add about a teaspoon of ricotta to each fig. Drizzle generously with honey. Sprinkle with the toasted pistachios.

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Purple Raspberry Sauce

We finally had time to go berry picking the other day, our first outing of the season to Larriland, our favorite pick-your-own farm. As usual, the children were very excited, happily picking away and planning what we should make with our haul. At least until the water ran out. (Note to self: Next time pack the 3 gallon water jug!)

We picked blueberries, sour cherries, and raspberries. The red raspberries were slim pickings, but the purple raspberries were prolific. I don't remember ever seeing purple raspberries before, but sure enough, they were darker than the red raspberries and lighter than the black ones. Compared to a red raspberry, their flavor is smoother and more mellow.

Of course by the time we made it home, some of the berries were a bit smashed, and there was a puddle of juice at the bottom of one of the boxes. I immediately scooped those out and turned them into a sauce to serve over our ice cream that night for dessert. I kept the sauce simple, adding only a vanilla bean for a bit of depth to the flavor. It was fantastic.

I've been trying to refrain from having ice cream every night, so my second favorite option for the sauce is to serve it with plain yogurt. It makes the yogurt taste like a fruit flavored yogurt, but so much fresher and tastier for having been picked and made by our own hands.

Second Helping: Apricot-Blueberry Upside down Cake (This cake is exceptionally good!)
Thirds: Mint Limeade (still one of our favorite refreshing drinks)

Purple Raspberry Sauce

 

Makes about 1 quart of sauce
20 minutes preparation and cooking time

Of course, any color raspberry would do. I recommend using those berries that are a bit squishy. They will be delicious in this sauce and that way the perfect berries can be eaten as they are or made into something else. I decided not to strain the sauce because I like the texture of the berries and their seeds, but if you prefer a more refined sauce, pour it through a mesh strainer as you pour it into the jar for storage.

4 cups raspberries
2 cups sugar
1/2 vanilla bean

Add the raspberries and sugar to a small stockpot. Slit the bean in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Add the seeds and the pod to the stockpot. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook until the sugar has all dissolved, 10 to 15 minutes.

Set it aside and let it cool to room temperature. Pour it into a glass jar and store it in the refrigerator. It will keep a couple of weeks, if it lasts that long.

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Oscar's Tasty and Juicy Strawberry Pie

Okay, that's Oscar's title, but I was going to call it "Not Quite Perfect Strawberry Pie." Here's the back story.

A couple of years ago, when we went strawberry picking, we were dreaming of all of the things that we would make with them. Oscar was very specific about wanting strawberry pie. I had made cherry pie, blueberry pie, peach pie, lots and lots of other pies. But never strawberry pie.


"Um, Oscar, how about a nice strawberry tart?"

"No, it should be a pie."

"Well, a pie is like a tart, just no top."

"No, it should be a pie, just like a blueberry pie, with a top."


Okay, then, pie. I gave it a go. I have lost track of how many strawberry pies I  have now made. I tried several with two crusts, some with ground nuts, some with ricotta. But I wasn't happy with the color, texture, flavor. There was always something. I finally decided that the top crust just wasn't going to work. The steaming of the strawberries just made them lose their vibrant color and cooked them too much.

So this year when we gave it a try, I decided to leave off the top. I still made it like a pie, deep, in a pie plate, but left off the top. I kept some of the berries uncooked and made others into a syrup. Again, we've given it a few tries. Our last attempt, the pie still didn't set as firmly as I would have liked.

But here's the thing. Oscar loved it. And it was delicious. Just not perfectly set. In fact, I think Oscar loved all of these pies, and we have had a great time making them together. The last pie we made, Oscar helped me every step of the way, and even took over the naming. "I'm going to say 'tasty'. You've got to make it sound good!"

So, even though it's not perfect, I'm going to share this recipe with you. Because sometimes, the planning and the making are more important than the end result. And perfection isn't the point. Getting into the kitchen, spending time with one (or more!) of my children, that's what I love and what I want to remember.

We'll keep at it, though, until strawberry season is over, and I'd love to hear your ideas for tweaking this recipe. I promise I'll come back and update the recipe when I get it perfect. If we ever do.

 

And just in case you were keeping track of the pie versus tart conversation, Oscar was not fooled by this recipe. I thought maybe he'd forget about that conversation we had a couple of years ago about the top of the pie, but when he realized that we weren't going to cook it after we poured in the berries in syrup, he hesitated. "But I wanted a pie, not a tart!"

Then he remembered that there was a bit of dough left from the bottom crust, and pulled it out of the refrigerator. We decided to shape it and place it on the top. Not quite a double crust pie, but enough to make him happy. And, really, that's what I'm after.

Second Helping:  Cherry Galettes
Thirds: Strawberry Shortcake (Mmm- I'm thinking we'll take a break from the pie and make this next)

Oscar's Tasty and Juicy Strawberry Pie

Serves 10
45 minutes preparation time
35 minutes baking time, plus a few hours for chilling

for the crust:
1 1/2 cups unbleached white flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 stick cold, unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-size pieces
2-4 tablespoons cold water

for the filling:
10 cups whole strawberries, stems removed, divided
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch

First, make the crust. You can make the dough either by hand or in a food processor.

If you are making the dough by hand, whisk together the flour, salt, sugar, and lemon zest. Add the butter and mix it into the flour mixture quickly with your fingers until it ranges in size from tiny pebbles to cornmeal.

If you prefer to use a food processor, add all the ingredients except the butter and water into the food processor bowl and pulse a few times. Add the butter and pulse a few more times until the butter is broken into small pieces, ranging in size from cornmeal to tiny pebbles. Turn the flour mixture into a large bowl. 

Add 2 tablespoons of cold water and mix with a fork or your hands.  If the dough does not hold together after you have mixed in the water, add one additional tablespoon of water at a time until it does.  Form the dough into a ball with your hands.  Flatten the dough into a disk and wrap it tightly in plastic wrap. 

Chill the dough for at least 15 minutes and up to a couple of days. 

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.  Remove the dough from the refrigerator and roll it out on lightly floured plastic wrap or parchment paper.  Roll the dough until it is about 2 inches larger than the diameter of the pie plate.  Drape the dough over the rolling pin and transfer it to the pie plate.  Push the dough down into the sides of the pie plate until it fits snugly.  Trim any dough that hangs over the edge with scissors. Remove any excess dough. Pop any excess into the refrigerator to make a shape for the top, if you like.

Place a piece of foil over the dough in the tart pan.  Press the foil into the pan so that it sits tightly on top of the dough.  Fill the pie plate with pie weights or dried beans.  Bake the crust for 25 minutes.  Remove the weights and the foil and bake until the crust is lightly brown, about another 7 minutes. 

While the crust is cooking, make the filling. Reserve about two dozen perfect berries for the top.  Halve or quarter the remaining berries, depending on their size. In a small pot, gently mash 2 cups of the berries with the lemon juice, sugar, and cornstarch. Simmer over medium heat until the mixture thickens and the cornstarch is clear, about 5 minutes. Set it aside (in the refrigerator or freezer) to cool to room temperature.

With the exception of the two dozen perfect berries, spread the remaining berries into the pie crust. Pour the cooled strawberry mixture over the top. Slice the remaining two dozen berries in half lengthwise and arrange them over the top of the pie in a circular pattern. Chill for at least two hours until firm.

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Rhubarb-Apple Turnovers

One of the cookbooks that I have been using frequently of late is Dorie Greenspan's Around My French Table. The book is full of fairly simple but delicious recipes that are perfect for either a casual dinner or a fancier dinner party. It has been an excellent source of inspiration, especially for our Sunday Suppers.

It is natural, then, that I turned to Greenspan's book to give me some ideas for rhubarb, my current obsession. I had already made a galette a few times, as well as a variation using filo dough. This weekend I also made rhubarb-thyme compote, throwing in some strawberries for good measure.

We had gotten some apples from the farmers' market along with our rhubarb and I thought the two would be delicious together. Greenspan's book has a recipe for Compote de Pommes, and in the margin, she gave instructions for turning the compote into apple turnovers. A few minor tweaks and I had a lovely variation that uses rhubarb. These sweet little turnovers are just big enough to hold in your hand, the perfect little hand pie.

The puff pastry gives the turnovers a light, crunchy texture which is a nice contrast to the sauce in the filling. Because they are made with prepared puff pastry dough, they don't take too long to put together and are perfect for a snack or a party.

As obsessions go, I'm definitely enjoying this one.

Second Helping: Rhubarb-Mint Popsicles (hmmmm, apparently, I was gorging on rhubarb last year, too)
Thirds: Candied Ginger Scones

Rhubarb-Apple Turnovers

Adapted from Dorie Greenspan's Around My French Table
Makes about 18 turnovers
30 minutes preparation time, plus a couple of hours to defrost the puff pastry)
approximately 20 minutes baking time

1 14-ounce sheet puff pastry dough (I used Dufour)
3 large stalks of rhubarb, scrubbed and diced (about 1 1/2 cups)
3 large apples, peeled, cored, and sliced (about 5 cups)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus extra to sprinkle on top
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 egg, lightly beaten

If your puff pastry comes frozen, put it in the refrigerator to defrost for a couple of hours before you need it.

Put the apples and rhubarb in a small stockpot with a splash of water to keep them from sticking. Add the sugar and stir. Put the pot over medium heat, cover it, and bring it to a simmer. Simmer until the fruit is meltingly soft, about 15 minutes. Mash the fruit slightly with a bean masher or a wooden spoon. Add the vanilla and butter, and stir. Set the mixture aside while you roll out the dough.

Lightly flour a work surface. Unfold the puff pastry dough and lay it out on the work surface. Lightly flour the top of the dough and roll it with a rolling pin until it is very thin. The thinness doesn't matter too much, but the thinner it is, the better the ratio of dough to filling will be, and the more you will be able to make.

Cut the dough into approximately 4-inch circles using the edge of a saucer or whatever other implement you have handy. (I made mine 3-inches, and I think a larger size is better because it will allow more filling per pastry).

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Scoop a tablespoon of the rhubarb-apple mixture onto one half of each circle of dough, leaving about a half inch border around the edge. Brush the border of the circle with egg and fold the dough over to make a half circle. Using the tines of a fork, press the dough onto itself to seal it.  (If you don't seal it completely, the sauce will ooze out as it cooks. This happened with lots of ours which actually is not the worst thing in the world.

Sprinkle the top of each turnover with a bit of sugar and poke a couple of holes in the top of each turnover.

Bake the turnovers until they are golden brown and the filling begins to ooze out of the steam holes, about 20 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Green Rhubarb Galette

We went away for one week and the farmers' market went from ho-hum to fantastic. Not only were there ramps and asparagus, there were also lots of herbs, spring onions, and morel mushrooms. And there was rhubarb.

As always, when I visit the Silver Spring farmers' market, my first stop is Koiner's Farm, which offers produce grown in downtown Silver Spring. Koiner's is the life's work of Charlie Koiner, who is now 90 years old and still going strong. We should all be so lucky as to find work that sustains and energizes us so that we stay committed to it untll we are (at least 90). He is an inspiration to us all. If you want to know more about Koiner and his farm, check out the documentary about him, The Corner Plot, reviewed here.

The rhubarb that Koiner had this week was not the traditional red, but a green variety. Although it looks like celery, it's got the citrusy tang of rhubarb. We were having family over for dinner, so I threw together a  quick galette. I thought about adding strawberries to the galette, too, but I was so excited to see that first rhubarb that I just wanted to have it straight up, at least for the first time this season.

Second Helping: Monday Rhubarb Streusel Cake
Thirds: Rhubarb-Thyme Compote

Green Rhubarb Galette

Although I used green rhubarb for this recipe, the red variety would work just as well and maybe would be even a bit prettier.

Makes 1 galette (serves 6)
30 minutes preparation time
approximately 25 minutes baking time

For the crust:
2 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons ice water
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon lemon zest
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into a few pieces

For the filling:
1 1/2 cups diced rhubarb
4 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
1 tablespoon cold butter

To make the crust, first whisk together the sour cream and water in a small bowl and set it aside. In a larger bowl, mix together the flour, sugar, salt, and lemon zest. Add the butter and work it into the flour with your fingers until the mixture has pieces that range in size from small pebbles to grains of sand. Stir in the sour cream mixture and stir using your hands until the mixture comes together into a soft dough.

Roll the dough into a ball, and flatten it into a disk. Wrap the dough tightly with plastic wrap and store it in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes or as long as a couple of days.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Prepare the filling by mixing the rhubarb with the 3 tablespoons of sugar. When the dough has chilled, remove it from the refrigerator and roll it out with a rolling pin on a lightly floured surface until it is about 15 inches in diameter. Don't worry about making the galette perfect, but do patch any holes in the bottom of the dough so that the filling won't leak out. Move it onto the baking sheet.

Spoon the filling onto the dough, leaving an inch or two border. Break off small bits of the butter and distribute them over the filling. Fold the edge of the crust up over the filling, working around in a circle to give the dough a pleated look.

Brush the edges of the galette with water and sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of sugar over the edges. Bake until the galette is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, ideally with a scoop of ice cream.

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Flourless Chocolate Cake with Blood Orange Sauce

I sometimes think that there is a collective consciousness. Or maybe all ideas are riding on the same current. Right after I posted this recipe for Orange Chiffon Cake, the New York Times ran a recipe for Yuzu Chiffon Cake, and I remember that at the time I was working on my recipe for Edamame Dip recipe, Mark Bittman ran a recipe in his (former) Minimalist column for a pea dip that included a variation for edamame dip.

Then right after I photographed this chocolate cake recipe, Amanda Hesser ran a recipe for Flourless Chocolate Cake in her last Recipe Redux Column. So many coincidences.

Wait a minute! As I'm writing this, I realize that all of those recipes that I mentioned are from columns that are no longer running. Is this a bad omen?

Fortunately(?) for me, no one is paying me to write this blog, so there is no one to hand me a pink slip. I may not have fame or fortune like those other food writers do, but the up side is that I am tough to fire. As Bill Cunningham says in the wonderful documentary that is now out about him, "If you don’t take money, they can’t tell you what to do, kid. ... Money’s the cheapest thing. Liberty, freedom is the most expensive."

I'm hanging on to that.

As for this cake, it is rich, dense, almost fudgey. We have been making it from Gourmet for years and it is always a hit. The classic accompaniment is raspberry sauce, but I prefer it with the slight bitterness of blood oranges because they cut the richness of the chocolate. Also delicious is a scoop of lightly sweetened whipped cream which lightens the denseness of the cake.

Not only is it delicious, but it is very easy to make. So if you don't already have a cake like this in your repertoire, add this one. I promise you will not regret it.

Second Helping: Chocolate Banana Cream Pie
Thirds: Blueberry Crumb Cake

Thank you so much for your comments and ideas about kitchen renovations. I have loved getting virtual tours of all of your kitchens, and you have shared lots of inspiration as well as many practical ideas. You all are the best readers a girl could ask for!

 

Flourless Chocolate Cake

Adapted from Gourmet

Serves 10
20 minutes preparation time
35 to 40 minutes baking time, plus time for the cake to cool

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
2 sticks unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
6 eggs
1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
whipped cream for serving (optional)
Blood orange sauce for serving (optional), recipe follows

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit the bottom of a 10-inch springform pan. Butter one side and place it butter side down in the pan. Butter the top of the parchment paper, too.

Place a large metal bowl over a pan of water that has been brought to a low simmer. Add the chopped chocolate and butter to the bowl and heat it, stirring occasionally with a rubber spatula, until the chocolate and butter melt and are thoroughly mixed.

Remove the bowl from the heat and place it on a heatproof surface. Add the sugar and whisk until it is fully incorporated. Add the eggs one at a time, whisking after each egg. Sift in the cocoa powder and whick again until it is just incorporated into the batter.

Pour the batter into the springform pan and level it with the spatula. Bake until the top has a thin crust and a toothpick comes out with just a few crumbs attached.

Cool in the pan for 10 minutes. Then remove the sides of the springform pan. Place a baking rack over the top of the cake and turn it over so that the cake can continue to cool on the rack.

Serve with whipped cream or blood orange sauce (recipe follows).

Blood Orange Sauce

2 cups freshly squeezed blood orange juice
1 cup granulated sugar

Mix the ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sugar completely dissolves. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to simmer until the sauce thickens, about 15 minutes.

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Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies

Laced in with the sadness of the past year have been surprising moments of joy. We have gathered with others who also loved our dear ones and in those gatherings there has been much celebration, gratitude, and laughter. Misery loves company. It gives the phrase a new meaning. I have found much solace among the company of others who are also miserable. I have witnessed amazing love and tenderness, made new friends, and reconnected with others who I had not seen in far too long.

During one of these gatherings, I realized that I don't have a good peanut butter cookie recipe. Riduculous, isn't it? My life seems to unfold that way, jumping from moments of despair and contemplation to the mundane and the trivial. The profound and the prosaic. The bitter and the sweet.

Of course, I had to remedy the situation that I could remedy, the lack-of-a-good-peanut-butter-cookie-recipe situation. So here it is: the perfect chewy, crunchy, intensely peanut butter-y peanut butter cookie.

Second Helping: Chocolate Sheet Cake with Brown Butter Cream Frosting (the favorite again this year for birthday month).
Thirds: Green Eggs, No Ham (a Dr. Seuss tribute)

Chewy Peanut Butter Cookies

Adapted from Alice Medrich's Chewy, Gooey, Crispy, Crunchy Melt-in-You Mouth Cookies

Medrich's recipe says that she usually chills the dough before baking for 2 hours, but that melting the butter instead is a reasonable substitute and makes for a chewier cookie. An approach that leads to instant gratification and a chewier cookie? Sold! I also changed things up a bit, substituting some whole wheat pastry flour and adding roasted peanuts to get more crunch.

Makes 3 dozen cookies
20 minutes preparation time
about 15 minutes baking time

1 cup unbleached white flour
1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 stick butter, melted
1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup natural peanut butter
1/2 cup roasted, salted peanuts out of the shell

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Whisk the flours, salt, and baking soda together in a small bowl.

In a large bowl, use a mixer to mix together the sugars and butter until thoroughly combined. Add the egg, vanilla, and peanut butter and mix again until all of the ingredients are fully incorporated. Add the flour mixture and the peanuts and mix again, this time until the ingredients are just combined.

Scoop generous tablespoonfuls of cookie dough, and form them into balls. Arrange the balls on the lined cookie sheets about 2 inches apart. Flatten each ball with the tines of a fork into a cross hatch pattern.

Bake the cookies for 14 to 16 minutes until they are lightly golden brown in color. Medrich always rotates her cookie sheets from top to bottom and from front to back, which I am sure makes for perfectly-evenly cooked cookies. I forget to do that about half of the time, but the cookies are still delicious.

Cool the cookies on a baking rack. They will keep in an airtight container for 2 weeks.

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Clementine Sorbet & Teal Toes

I don't know if it is a craving for vitamin C or just that great freshness that citrus brings to the last days of winter, but we have been eating more than our share of citrus around here. I've been loving ruby red grapefruits, Gabe has had a hankering for navel oranges, and we have all been racing through the clementines.

I was trying to think of something to make with clementines when my friend Carey said that one of the women chefs at the Ovarian Cancer National Alliance's National Gala had served clementine ice cream. I have to digress for a minute to say something about Carey. She has an amazing amount of energy and focus and has used some of it to start an organization called Teal Toes, which encourages people (yes, men, you too!) to paint their toenails teal. Because the color is unusual, it attracts attention and creates the perfect opportunity to raise awareness of the symptoms of ovarian cancer. The symptoms, like bloating and abdominal pain, are so common that many women don't take them seriously. But early detection means a better chance of survival.

So check out the symptoms, talk to the women in your life about them, paint your toes teal, and kick back with a bowl of sorbet. And toast Carey. Because in addition to her amazing organizing skills, she is a great cook and a discerning eater. I know I can trust her to tell me what's good, so I was inspired to try my own clementine concoction at home.

I decided to make sorbet instead of ice cream because I wanted something light and refreshing. On my first try, I made the mistake of bringing the juice to a simmer to incorporate the sugar, but that gave it an overly-ripe taste that was very unpleasant. The second time, I made a simple sugar syrup apart from the clementine juice and let it cool before adding it to the juice. This let the juice maintain its freshness.

I also added the zest and juice of a Meyer lemon to balance the sweetness of the clementines with some acid. I think the result was even better than a fresh clementine. If only I could have come up with somethintg teal to sprinkle on top.

The sorbet made an excellent light dessert which was a nice finishing touch to a big meal. Or it would have been if we hadn't eaten it with brownies.

Second helping: Roses des Sables (quick, crisp chocolatey goodness)
Thirds?: Butter Crackers (Olivia's first recipe for HTC!)

Clementine Sorbet

You can use any method you like for juicing the clementines. If you have an electric juicer, the fastest approach might be to juice them that way. Faced with the prospect of squeezing mine by hand on my tiny manual juicer, I looked for other options. I found that the easiest approach was to chop the clementines in a food processor and then to run them through a food mill to remove the membranes. This approach violates one of my usual kitchen rules about not using more than one mechanical aid, but it was faster than using the food processor and a seive or using the food mill without chopping the sections first.

Serves 6
30 minutes preparation and cooking time, plus time in the ice cream maker and for chilling

18 clementines
zest (about 1 teaspoon) and juice (about 2 tablespoons) of 1 Meyer lemon 
3/4 cup granulated sugar

Pour the sugar and 1/2 cup of water in a small stock pot. Heat it over medium-high heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Set the pot aside to cool.

Peel the clementines and remove any large white pith from their centers. Break each clementine into a few groups of sections.

Place the disk with the largest holes in a food mill and set it over a large bowl. Working in batches, coarsely chop the clementines in a food processor. As you chop each batch, transfer it to the food mill. Run the clementines through the food mill until all of the juice is extracted. You should get about 3 cups.

Add the cooled syrup to the clementine juice, along with the the zest and juice of the Meyer lemon. Pour the mixture into the ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

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Coco-Choco Pudding


The forces have been conspiring to get me to make pudding. First, Food 52 featured pudding in their recipe contest last week. I wanted to make an improved version of the Jell-O pistachio pudding that I loved as a child, but I didn't get around to testing it in time to submit it.

Then, on Friday, Olivia had some surgery on her mouth. Watching her have the surgery and recover from it has been like hearing nails on a chalkboard. It makes me cringe. Granted, she will be okay, but it is no fun to see her suffering. The recovery has been rockier than we thought it would be. She is still quite sore and eating is painful. 

As a  parent, it is heart wrenching to stand on the sidelines and watch her suffer. I want to reach in and take away her pain, or waive a wand to make it better. Maybe these times are necessary to teach both parent and child that children can handle adversity on their own. Maybe, but I don't like it.

 
 
So what is a mama to do? Cook, of course. To make eating easier on her, we have come up with a variety of soft foods, including, banana milkshakes, fruit shakes, rice and mild curry, mashed potatoes, garlicky butternut squash, and soft pasta (well past my standard for al dente).

And of course there has been pudding.

I gave the pistachio pudding a try, but I used arrowroot -- and too much of it -- and I ended up wtih a gloppy mess. Yuck. I'll give it another try, but in the meantime, I switched to chocolate because that is what Olivia was craving. I used coconut milk to give that standard chocolate pudding a tropical flair. That and Smitten Kitchen's pina colada cake got me thinking about adding an umbrella.

 
Most importantly, the texture was just what the patient ordered. Cold, creamy, and smooth. A treat to soothe that unhappy mouth.

 
Second Helping: Peanut Butter Chocolate Chunk Cookies
Thirds?: Vanilla Bean Pudding

Coco-Choco Pudding

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation and cooking time, plus time for chilling

1 15-ounce can coconut milk
1 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon cornstarch
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

In a small saucepan, heat the milks over medium heat just until they reach a simmer. Add the vanilla and mix it in. Remove the pot from the heat.

In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch, sugar, and salt. Sift in the cocoa powder, and whisk it again to combine. Slowly add the cornstarch mixture to the milk, whisking constantly.

Return the pot to the stove, and bring it to a simmer over medium heat. Whisk constantly until the pudding thickens, 3 to 5 minutes. Strain the pudding into a heat proof bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, pushing the plastic wrap down onto the surface of the pudding. Refrigerate until the pudding sets, about an hour in the freezer or 2 hours in the refrigerator.

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Cooking with Mother Goose: Homemade Apple Sauce

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes -  just one more way for me to hook the children into the kitchen.

For Baby
You shall have an apple
You shall have a plum
You shall have a rattle
When papa comes home.

Okay, this isn't as much a recipe as a plea. And I've thrown in a technique for good measure. If you have never made your own applesauce at home, you have to try it. It tastes so much better than the commercial variety, and it is incredibly easy. There are lots of different approaches. Some people peel the apples in advance, others use a food mill at the end to separate out the peel once it is cooked.

But my method is the easiest of all. You don't even need to peel the apples. Just quarter and seed them and cook them. When they are soft but while they are still hot, run them through a food processor. That's it! The sauce will become a lovely, smooth purée. You will see a few flecks of peel, but they will be so tiny and soft that they will not impair the consistency at all. And leaving the peels on during cooking gives the applesauce a lovely color. For these pictures, I used Empire apples, grown by my uncle in upstate New York. I love the rosy tint the apple sauce gets from their skins.

And this time of year, when some of those farmers' market apples are beginning to look a bit tired, apple sauce is a delicious way to get some fruit into the diet, while still eating seasonally and locally. Our children are pretty tired of apples at this point in the year, but they still see apple sauce as a treat. So please, please, please, head to the closest farmers' market, buy yourself a bunch of apples (seconds will do if they have any) and make some applesauce. Baby -- and the rest of you -- can lap it up, even before Papa gets home.

Homemade Apple Sauce

There really are no precise proportions needed here. If I am canning the apple sauce and want to make sure they have enough acid, I usually add about a teaspoon of lemon juice per quart. More detailed instructions  for canning are here (although they do not add lemon juice). I don't add sugar because I find that the apple sauce is sweet enough as is, but a pear or two thrown into the mix is delicious.

a mix of varieties of sweet apples, washed, cut into quarters, and cored (peels still on)
1 or more cinnamon sticks

Put the apples and cinnamon stick(s) in a large heavy stock pot. Add a splash of water to keep the apples from burning before they release their own liquid. Cover the pot and bring the apples to a simmer over medium-low heat.

When they are very soft, but while they are still hot, scoop them out with a slotted spoon and run them through a food processor. It is important to do this while the apples are still very hot because it will give them a smoother consistency. Purée until smooth.

If you have apple juice left over, you can add it to the sauce for a thinner consistency, or drink it. Serve the apple sauce warm, at room temperature, or chilled. Warm apple sauce is especially tasty over vanilla ice cream or with gingersnaps.

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Molasses Cookies

Much gratitude for all of your kind words in response to my last post. There are such good reminders in those comments about how important it is to be honest with our children and about how resilient those little ones are. Thank you for that.

In appreciation, I give you one of our all-time favorite cookie recipes. I discovered this recipe when I was working on a cookbook for our preschool, Acorn Hill. It was one of the first recipes that I tested for the book, and it was a big hit at home. We have been making these cookies ever since. Many thanks to Mary Forrest for allowing me to share her recipe here.

These cookies are chewy, lightly spiced with cinnamon and cloves, and topped with a sprinkle of sugar. I hope you make them immediately and that you all love them as much as we do.

Because, when life gets us down, we need cookies.

Molasses Cookies 

The original recipe calls for chilling the dough for 2 hours before baking the cookies. This chill makes for a chewier cookie, but we have made the cookies many times when we were in too much of a hurry to wait and they are still excellent.

Makes 3 dozen cookies
30 minutes preparation time, plus time for chilling
20 to 30 minutes total baking time

1 1/2 sticks (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1 cup brown sugar
1 egg
1/4 cup molasses
2 1/4 cups unbleached white flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon salt
granulated sugar for dipping and sprinkling

Using a mixer, cream together the butter and brown sugar. Add the egg and molasses and mix to combine. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, cloves, and salt.

Add the dry ingredients to the molasses mixture and blend until the ingredients are completely incorporated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, if you have the time.

When you are ready to bake the cookies, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper. Pour some granulated sugar into a shallow bowl.

Roll the dough into balls the size of large walnuts. Dip the tops of the cookies in the granulated sugar and arrange them on the cookie sheets at least an inch apart. Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes, until they are firm. Remove them from the oven and immediately sprinkle them with more granulated sugar.

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Spiced Roasted Pears

Apples and pears, pears and apples, apples, apples, and more apples, and then some pears. That's the state of fruit at the farmers' market these days. This is the time of year when trying to eat locally and seasonally  can be challenging. It's not like The Long Winter from Little House on the Prairie or anything, but it can still be monotonous.

Finding new ways to spice up (sorry, couldn't resist the pun) those apples and pears keeps things from getting too dull. These pears have sparked the interest of young and not-so-young in this house. They require just a bit of preparation, then roast on their own in the oven so that you can prepare the rest of the meal, fold a load of laundry, sit with a child doing homework, or buzz around and chat with guests, depending on what is happening at home.

And the flavor? The pears are lightly sweetened with just a hint of those classic winter spices, cinnamon and nutmeg. And they are fragrant and pretty to boot. They make a fine end to a dinner on their own, especially this time of year, when it just feels right to leave some of that cream and butter behind. (At least for now). Of course they are also delicious with a bit of creme fraiche or vanilla ice cream.

These will definitely keep me eating pears for a while longer, although I confess that from time to time, I do sneak off to our well-stocked grocery store and pick up a pineapple or cantaloupe. Or even a pomelo.

Second Helping: Robin's Egg Meringues (made by the children)
Thirds?: Banana Chocolate Chip Snack Cakes (my first HTC recipe!)

Spiced Roasted Pears

So far, I have only used Bosc pears for this recipe because that is what is available at our farmers' market, but I would love to try it with Bartletts. I'm guessing they would not need to cook quite as long because they are not as firm.

Serves 6
20 minutes preparation time
approximately 50 minutes minutes baking time

1/2 cup fruity white wine, such as viognier
1/2 cup water
1/3 cup sugar
1 cinnamon stick
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
6 Bosc pears

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Mix the wine, water, sugar, and spices in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Set aside.

Peel the pears and cut them lengthwise, leaving the stems on if you like. Using a melon baller or small knife remove the core of each pear half. Arrange the pears cut side up in a baking dish large enough to hold them in a single layer. Pour the syrup over the pears. Don't wash the pan yet, in case you want to use it to thicken the sauce (see below).

Bake the pears for about 25 minutes, removing them from the oven once or twice to baste them in the juices. Turn the pears over and continue to roast them until they are tender when pierced with a knife. Depending on the size of the pears, this could take anywhere from an additional 15 to 35 minutes. Again, remove the baking dish from the oven once or twice and spoon the juices over the pears.

If you would like to thicken the sauce after the pears have finished cooking, pour the sauce from the baking pan into the saucepan and warm the sauce over medium heat. Simmer the sauce, stirring occasionally until it thickens into a syrup.

Serve the pears with some of the syrup drizzled on top. A scoop of ice cream, a dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream or creme fraiche would make an excellent accompaniment, as would a crisp cookie.

Jobs for children: Measuring and grating nutmeg can be done my children most ages. Slightly older children can peel the pears and remove the cores. With a melon baller, even littler ones can help with the coring. The oldest children can help slice the pears and stir the syrup.

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Homemade Gingerbread Houses

If you're looking for an example of a perfect gingerbread house, you won't find it here. Fine detail work and perfect design just aren't my thing. What I will give you, though, are step-by-step instructions for making your own gingerbread house from scratch, a process that is very fun, no matter how much the result calls to mind Charlie Brown's Christmas tree.

Every year during the 12 days of Christmas, (after Christmas day) we make gingerbread houses. With the winter holidays upon us, you too may soon you may find yourselves at home with some time to spare, and these houses are a lovely, fun project.

For several years, we have relied on Gingerbread Ideas by Patti Hudson, also known as "the gingerbread lady" for her years of experience making gingerbread houses. The book has been a fantastic practical resource for us, and it includes recipes and patterns for making various styles of gingerbread houses. (Along with a couple of instructional DVDs, the book is available directly from Patti's site, Gingerbread Land.) Patti has been kind enough to allow me to share some of her recipes here.

In the beginning, we started out making the graham cracker houses, which were quite simple and charming, but last year we constructed our house from scratch, starting with making our own gingerbread dough. Patti's gingerbread is a beautiful dark color, and, as an added bonus, is very tasty.

I found that spreading the project over two days kept all of us sane. We mixed, rolled, and baked the gingerbread one day, and then assembled and decorated the next. Of course, if you are more motivated, you can do it in a day, but I have learned the hard way that it is not a project to be rushed. The house should be assembled one piece at a time, allowing the frosting to firmly set before adding the next piece. When we hurried, the pieces didn't hold, and our house collapsed. We patched it up with frosting, and were back on track in no time, but we learned our lesson.

In the end, the kids worked together to make a house that was unique, with an imprint of their own style.  Yes, it was also a bit of a mess, but that just reminds me of another house I know. . .

And this year, we won't rush it. We'll put on some good music, heat some cider, and plan on a couple of days that mix in some relaxation and walks with our gingerbread construction. I can't wait.

I have arranged this post a bit differently. The recipes for the basic gingerbread dough and the frosting are listed at the end. First I have set out the steps for making the house, along with pictures of our project.

Steps for Making a Gingerbread House

1. Make the gingerbread dough following the recipe below.

2. While the dough chills, make a base by covering a cutting board or thick piece of cardboard with decorative paper or foil.

3. Make a template for the house out of cardboard. There are several in Gingerbread Ideas, or you can make your own. You will need 6 pieces in all: a front and back of equal size and two sides of equal size, as well as two roof pieces that should be a bit wider than the sides.

3. Roll out the dough until it is 3/8-inch thick.

4. Lay the templates on top of the dough and, using a sharp knife, cut out the shapes. Cut windows and doors, too, but do not remove them from the walls. With the scraps, you can make trees, paving stones, snowmen, etc. Have fun with this part!

5. Bake the gingerbread according to the recipe. Remove the windows and doors immediately after baking. Let the gingerbread cool completely.

6. Mix the icing using the recipe below. Cover it with a damp dishtowel or plastic wrap when you are not using it because it dries out quickly.

7. Arrange the parts of the house on the base. Pipe out a generous amount of icing the length one of the walls onto the base. Carefully place the wall on it and let it sit for a few minutes. Apply icing to the vertical edge of the wall and to the base and attach the front of the house. Repeat this process until all four sides of the house are attached. 

8. Use cans to support the sides and let the icing harden for about an hour before adding the roof. Decorate the miscellaneous pieces while you wait for the walls to dry.

9. Pipe a generous amount of icing along the top of the walls and add one side of the roof. Support the roof by placing a small can or jar under it. Pipe the other walls and the roof edge and add the second side of the roof. Add icing under the roof eaves and even some candies to help support it. Support the second roof side with a jar or can and allow it to dry for about an hour.

10. Decorate the house. This is a great place to get creative. We have found that leftover Halloween candy is an excellent source for decorating. Small candies like M&Ms and Skittles work well, as do candy canes, peppermints, sprinkles, licorice, lollipops, even pretzels, cookies, and raisins. To attach a decoration, apply a dab of icing and then affix the candy.

11. Decorate the yard by adding trees, pavers, animals, a fence, etc. Again, add a generous dab of icing and then apply the decoration.

 

Basic Gingerbread Dough
Adapted from Patti's Gingerbread

Makes enough for one gingerbread house that is about 7 inches wide, 4 inches deep, and 7 inches tall.

4 1/2 to 5 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 teaspoons ginger
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 cup molasses
1 teaspoon vanilla

In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and ginger. Set aside.

In a mixer, beat the butter and sugar together until it is light and fluffy.  Mix in the molasses and vanilla and blend until it is fully combined. Add the dry ingredients a cup at a time, mixing after each addition. If needed, work the last cup of flour into the dough with your hands. The dough should be stiff, but still moist and smooth, not dry or crumbly.

Divide the dough in half and shape each half into a rectangle. Wrap each half in plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours or overnight. The dough can keep in the refrigerator for several days or for several months in the freezer. (If you freeze the dough, thaw it in the refrigerator overnight before using it.)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper and roll the dough our directly onto the parchment (To make it easier, set the cookie sheet on a dish cloth and find a pair of small hands to hold the corners of the parchment paper while you roll.) Roll it 3/8 of an inch thick. Place the templates on the dough and cut out the house pieces and any other desired shapes with a sharp knife. If you cut windows or a door, do not remove them from the dough before baking. Form any scraps into a ball and flatten it for reuse.

Bake the dough until it is firm, about 12 to 15 minutes for house parts, and 5 or so minutes for smaller decorative pieces. Bake similar sizes on the same sheet because the length of time will vary significantly depending on the size of the shape being baked.

After removing the sheet from the oven, immediately cut out the windows and door from the house. Those pieces can be used as shutters or paving stones.

Let the gingerbread cool for about a minute on the baking sheet before moving the pieces to a rack to cool. When they have cooled completely, wrap them tightly in plastic wrap and store them on a firm surface such as a flat plate or cutting board until it is time to assemble the house.

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Decorative Icing 
Adapted from Patti's Gingerbread

 

Makes enough for one gingerbread house that is about 7 inches wide, 4 inches deep, and 7 inches tall.

1 pound confectioners' sugar
3 tablespoons meringue powder
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 cup minus 1 tablespoon hot tap water

In the bowl of a mixer, wisk the confectioners' sugar and meringue powder together. Add the cream of tartar and mix again.

Put the bowl onto the mixer stand, add the hot water and beat for 3 or 4 minutes at low speed until no lumps remain. Scrape down the sides of the bowl and beat again until the icing holds stiff peaks, 5 to 8 minutes.

Keep the icing bowl covered with a wet kitchen towel or plastic wrap when it is not being used because it dries out quickly. The icing can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator. Before using it, remove it from the refrigerator and mix it again until it forms stiff peaks.

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Airy Apple Cake

Sometimes a homey, tasty cake is just what you need. In fact, cake almost always has the power to improve ones outlook on life. In any event, the only thing it can hurt is the waistline, and I'm not going to start worrying about that after all these years.

This cake offers just that type of comfort. The apples are first spooned into the baking pan and topped with a batter that covers the apples and surrounds them with light fluffy cake. The result is an airy spiced cake with a sprinkle of crunchy sweetness on the top. Dressed up on fancy plate with a scoop of ice cream it makes an excellent seasonal dessert. Wrapped in a napkin, it would make a perfect snack on the run. Some have even been known to have a slice for breakfast.

Dicing apples.
The first time I made this cake, Chloe looked at me with wonder. She had just been singing "An Apple for an Apple Cake" with the Revels. I believe the song was based on a story by Nienke Van Hichtum in which an old woman plans to make an apple cake but doesn't have any apples. She sets out to find some and shares her generosity along the way. It is a lovely story, and Chloe was delighted that I was actually making an apple cake at home. Sometimes things just work out that way. Especially when cake is involved.

Second Helping: Pear and Almond Cake

Dig in!

Airy Apple Cake

To prepare the apples:
3-4 firm apples, ideally a mix of varieties, peeled, cored, and cut into bite-sized pieces
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

To make the cake:
1 cup unbleached white flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar, divided
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 teaspoons orange zest
1/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2-quart baking dish.

Pour the apples into the baking dish and mix them with the butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Set aside while you mix the cake.

In a small bowl, mix together the flour, baking powder, and salt. In a mixer, beat the butter and 3/4 cup of the sugar until light. Add the egg, vanilla, and orange zest and mix again. Add half of the flour mixture, the milk, and then the remaining half of the flour mixture, mixing each time until just combined. Pour the batter over the apples and spread it so that it covers them evenly.

Mix the remaining sugar and cinnamon together in a small bowl. Sprinkle it over the top.  Bake  the cake for 35-40 minutes, until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm or cooled directly from the baking dish.

Jobs for children: Children can peel the apples, zest the orange, and mix. At the end, children can also sprinkle the cinnamon sugar on top. To make it come out more evenly, put the cinnamon-sugar mixture in a clean spice bottle so that not too much comes out with any one shake. Older children can also dice apples.

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Best Ever Pecan Bars

Do you have a recipe that you just love that you look for any possible opportunity to make? If so, I would love to hear from you --  please leave me a comment and let me know what your favorite is. I'm always curious to know what others love, and I'm sure other readers would be interested too.

These pecan bars are my favorite.

Who am I kidding? If you have been reading here for any time at all, you probably realize that a person who loves to cook and eat as much as I do probably can't limit herself to just one favorite. And you would be right, but these pecan bars are utterly fantastic and would be high up on any list of my favorites.

OK, there's not quite this much butter in them, but there is a wee bit in those lumps.

These little bites have a shortbread crust and are topped with pecans in a gooey, honey syrup that is divine. They are a perfect indulgence.

I first made them for Chloe's baptism party more than 6 years ago, and I still remember sitting around with one of Chloe's godfathers as the party was winding down, putting my feet up, and eating several of these back to back.

Pecans ready for their starring role, and the cream blending into the filling mixture.

I have been making them for parties ever since and the serving plate is usually empty long before the party ends. I'll let you in on a secret, though. I usually have a few hidden away in the kitchen for me -- oops, I mean, for us -- to have after the party. So now you know that if you come to a party at my house and are really desperate for just one more pecan bar, if you poke around long enough in the kitchen you will find a few. Just be sure to leave me one. Although, now that you have the recipe you can make your own any time you want.

The shortbread hot out of the oven, and with the pecan mixture poured over the top.

Ironically, Chloe won't touch these pecan bars. She has a general rule against nuts, although as with many of her food rules, she breaks it on occasion. In this case, she breaks it for peanuts and tamari almonds. Pecans, however, have not yet won her over. Until they do, someone else will just have to eat her share.

Second Helping: Brown Sugar Cookies

Best Ever Pecan Bars

Adapted slightly from Gourmet
Makes 2 dozen bars
25 minutes preparation time
45 minutes cooking time, plus an hour or more cooling time

The pecan bars can be made a few days ahead. If I don't need the pan, I just tightly wrap the entire pan in plastic wrap and store the bars at room temperature. If I need the pan, I cut them and store them between layers of wax paper or parchment paper in a tin at room temperature.

For the shortbread:
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the topping:
2 cups (8 ounces) pecans
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 cup light brown sugar
1/3 cup honey
2 tablespoons heavy cream

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Make the shortbread. Cut the butter into tablespoon-sized pieces. Put all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and mix just until the butter varies in size from grains of sand to small pebbles. Empty the mixture into a 9-by-13-inch pan and press it firmly and evenly into the pan using your hands or a spatula. Bake until the mixture is lightly golden, about 20 minutes.

Make the topping. In the same food processor (for goodness sakes please do not wash it in between), pulse the pecans for just a few seconds until they are coarsley chopped. Set them aside.

In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the butter, sugar and honey, stirring until the mixture is smooth. Add the cream, stir to incorporate it completely, bring to a simmer, and let it bubble for about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and immediately add the pecans.

Pour the pecan mixture evenly over the hot shortbread, spreading it with a wooden spoon if necessary. Cook until the mixture is bubbling, about 20 minutes.

Cool completely in the pan. Use a sharp knife to cut into 24 bars. At first it will seem that the mixture is completely stuck in the pan and will be impossible to remove. Once cut, however, the bars actually pop out quite easily. Store in an airtight container. If you need to stack the bars, place wax or parchment paper between the layers to keep them from sticking.

Jobs for children: Because so much of this recipe is made in the food processor, the best job for children is measuring. And of course they can always work the controls on the food processor.

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Chocolate-Hazelnut Macarons

As promised, here is a macaron recipe for you chocolate lovers. Chocolate is a challenge for me because I adore it, but I have become very susceptible to the effects of caffeine. I'm not sure if the cause is all the years of low caffeine consumption while I was pregnant and nursing my babies or if it's just genetics, but the result is that if I have chocolate at night I will llikely lose a couple of hours of sleep.

Cracking hazelnuts for the meringues.
I sometimes will have a luscious chocolate dessert anyway, because there are times when a few hours of sleep is a small price to pay for an excellent dessert. The other solution I have come up with is to have chocolate in the morning. I now keep a(t least one) bar of dark chocolate in my desk at work so that I can have an indulgence without paying a price.

Of course you can try the batter, my dear, you  just have to lick it off your nose!


Folding the chocolate-nut mixture into the meringue.
But I live with a couple of chocolate-loving night owls who would be very happy staying up till the wee hours of the morning indulging in chocolate treats. These macarons seemed like they would make my chocolate lovers happy and I thought I might even justify having one with my breakfast. After all, they're made with egg whites and nuts. Very healthy, no?
The chocolate filling, ready for chilling.


Piping out the macarons and assembling them.
For this batch of macarons, Andrea and I adapted David Lebovitz's Chocolate Macaron recipe. We added hazelnuts and the flavor was excellent with the chocolate. The macarons were thicker than the peach ones that we made, but the meringues were crisp on the outside and chewy in the middle. Again, I think the only thing I would do differently would be to more finely grind the nuts.

The end result is such a fun treat, really different from other desserts. Not a cookie or a cake, just its own special delight. Or as Oscar says, "It's chocolate!" What more do you need?"

The reviews are in!

Chocolate-Hazelnut Macarons

 If you would like to make the macarons in advance, bake the macarons and make the filling, but store them separately, the macarons in an airtight container at room temperature, the filling in the refrigerator. If the filling is stiff when you are ready to assemble the macarons, let it sit out of the refrigerator for a few minutes or return it to the mixer and whip it again.

Adapted from The Sweet Life in Paris (Broadway) by David Lebovitz

Makes about 25 macarons
40 minutes preparation time
about 20 minutes baking time

For the filling:
1 cup heavy cream
4 teaspoons light corn syrup
8 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces

For the macaron shells:
1/2 cup ground almonds (just less than 1/2 cup whole raw almonds before grinding in a food processor)
1/2 cup ground hazelnuts (just less than 1/2 cup whole raw hazelnuts before grinding in a food processor)
1 cup powdered sugar
12 tablespoons unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder
4 large egg whites, at room temperature
10 tablespoons granulated sugar

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

First make the filling. Heat the cream and corn syrup in a small saucepan over medium heat. Just when the cream begin to bubble around the edges, remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate. Sitr until it has melted completely. Add the pieces of butter and stir them in until it is fully incorporated. Set the pan in the refrigerator to cool.

Next make the macaron shells. Grind the almonds and hazelnuts by running them in a food processor for a couple of minutes until they are extremely fine. At the end of the process, you will need 1 cup of ground nuts. Although this surprised me, it actually takes less than that amount of whole almonds to get 1 cup of ground nuts. Add the powdered sugar and cocoa powder and mix briefly. Set the mixture aside.

In a mixing bowl with a whisk attachment, beat the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Add the granulated sugar and beat again until the mixture is shiny and holds stiff peaks. Add the almond mixture and fold it in with a rubber spatula. Don't over mix the batter at this point. The ingredients should be well-incorporated and even in color but still retain the peaks from the egg whites.

Fit a pastry bag with a plain tip (about 1/2 inch in diameter). Spoon the meringue mixture into the pastry bag. Onto the cookie sheets, pipe out about 50 round disks each 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter and 1 inch apart. Gently tap the cookie sheet on the counter a couple of times to level the meringues. Cook them for 15 to 18 minutes, until the top of the shells is firm to the touch. Let the meringues cool completely on the parchment paper (you can gently slide the parchment off the cookie sheet if you want to reuse it) before removing them.

If you like, use a pastry bag to add about a tablespoon of filling onto a macaron and then top it with another. You can also do this with a spoon. Continue until you have assembled all the macarons. Depending on how full you fill the macarons, you may have chocolate filling left over.

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Apricot-Blueberry Upside Down Cake

Last Saturday we went to our friends' house for an impromptu dinner. I love those weeks when the stars align and we are all free to get together on a Saturday night. I offered to bring dessert because I had lots of fruit on hand, although I didn't have a clue what I would make. I had currants, blueberries, apricots, watermelon, and a strong incentive to clear out the refrigerator because I wanted to go berry picking the next day and needed to make space in the refrigerator. More on that later.

I found a recipe in Gourmet for apricot upside down cake that looked like the kind of recipe that I could throw together in time for dinner, and still get in a nap. Since we had the blueberries on hand I added some of those, too. They added a delicious sweetness as well as a beautiful purple color that was a  lovely contrast to the orange of the apricots.

When we got to the house, our friends had set up a chocolate fountain. Have you ever seen one of those? It is basically the same concept as fondue -- warm, melted chocolate -- but instead of a pot, it streams from the top of a tower. Isn't it a treat to have dessert options? Or, even better, dessert courses?

The kids went to town on the chocolate fountain. Unfortunately I didn't have my camera with me, but there were some chocolate faces that would have made excellent photos. We adults cut into the cake. And then some of the kids asked for cake, and some of the adults snuck a taste or two of that chocolate.

As for the cake, it was moist, tender, with a delicious sweetness from the fruit. Gabe put it on his top ten list. And at least one of the children ranked it above the chocolate fountain, which is hard to beat.  Put another way, if you can get your hands on some apricots and blueberries, make this cake!

Apricot-Blueberry Upside Down Cake

Adapted from Gourmet
20 minutes preparation time
40-45 minutes baking time

Gourmet calls for a 10-inch cast-iron skillet or nonstick pan to make this dessert, but I used stainless steel. You just need a pan that can go safely from stove top to oven, and it needs to have sides that are at least 2 inches deep to hold the cake. There is enough butter in this recipe that the cake slipped out of my stainless steel pan just fine. The cake keeps well for a couple of days in the refrigerator, but I recommend bringing it to room temperature before serving.

For the fruit:
1 stick (8 tablespoons) butter
3/4 cup light brown sugar
10-12 small apricots, halved lengthwise and pitted
1 cup blueberries

For the cake:
1 3/4 cups unbleached white flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick (8 tablespoons) butter, softened
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/4 almond extract
2 large eggs at room temperature
3/4 cups buttermilk (or 1/2 cup milk with 1/4 cup plain yogurt)

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Melt the butter in the skillet over medium heat. After the butter has melted, sprinkle the brown sugar as evenly as possible over the butter, and let it cook without stirring for 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add the apricots cut sides down in a pattern that you like because they will become the top of the cake. Sprinkle the blueberries in the spaces between the apricots. Set the pan aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. With a mixer, beat together the butter, sugar, and extracts until fluffy and lighter in color, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time and then mix until the batter has nearly doubled in volume, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn the mixer to low, and add the flour mixture and buttermilk in three alternating batches, beginning and ending with the flour mixture. With each addition, mix until just combined.

Scoop the batter onto the top of the apricots and blueberries being careful not to ruin that beautiful pattern that you made out of the fruit. The batter will be thick, so distribute it as evenly as possible and then smooth it out with a rubber spatula. Don't worry about any butter that oozes through. It will bake up just fine.

Bake until the cake is golden and a toothpick comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool in the pan on a rack for about 15 minutes. If the cake seems stuck to the sides, run a knife around the edge of it, but I found that this wasn't necessary because the cake pulled away from the side of the pan as it cooled. When the pan is cool enough to tough, put the serving plate on top of the pan. Keeping the plate firmly on top of the pan, flip it in one motion so that the plate is on the bottom. This is really a lot easier than it sounds. Just take a deep breath and go for it. Carefully lift the pan and if there is any fruit stuck to the bottom, return it to its rightful place on top of the cake. Serve warm or at room temperature. 

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Cherry Galettes

This is the best time of year to buy fruit at the market. Just this weekend, I picked up both sweet and tart cherries, black raspberries, red raspberries, blueberries, and peaches. Yes, I am a glutton. But I just can't help myself. Now we have to figure out what to do with all that fruit.

The raspberries are gone, and we have made a good dent in the cherries and peaches. We'll eat lots  more just as it is, but once in a while it's nice to have something a bit more special. Pies, of course, are one of my favorite ways to feature the fruits of summer, as I have written about before.  Blueberry and peach are hits around here. But these galettes are as easy as pie. Easier than pie, actually, because they only have a bottom crust and it is very easy to work with. They're also incredibly tasty, adding just enough crust to hold the fruit without overpowering the flavor.

This recipe makes small galettes, each only a few bites. It's the perfect size to serve for a summer treat, especially with a scoop of ice cream. If you want to make bigger galettes, though, you can cut it into fewer pieces or double the recipe.

And what would make a more perfect dessert for a Fourth of July picnic than one of these little hand held tarts?

Second helping: Almond Granola

Cherry Galettes

We enjoyed the small size of these galettes, but the recipe can easily be made as one large galette instead. Just roll out the dough in one large piece rather than dividing it and bake it a bit longer, about 40 minutes.

Makes 8 small galettes
45 minutes preparation time
approximately 25 minutes baking time

For the crust:
2 tablespoons sour cream
3 tablespoons ice water
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup semolina flour
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon lemon zest
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into a few pieces

For the filling:
1 1/2 cups cherries, pits removed
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons, granulated sugar, divided
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon cold butter

To make the crust, first whisk together the sour cream and water in a small bowl and set it aside. In a larger bowl, mix together the flours, sugar, salt, and lemon zest. Add the butter and work it into the flour with your fingers until the mixture has pieces that range in size from small pebbles to grains of sand. Mix in the sour cream with your fingers until the mixture forms a wet dough. Roll the dough into a ball, and flatten it into a disk. Wrap the dough tightly with plastic wrap and store it in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes or as long as a couple of days.

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Prepare the filling by mixing the pitted cherries with the extract, 3 tablespoons of sugar, and lemon zest. When the dough has chilled, remove it from the refrigerator and cut it into 8 equal-sized wedges with a sharp knife or a pastry cutter.

Take one wedge and roll it into a ball and then flatten it. Roll it out with a rolling pin on a lightly floured surface until it is about 5 inches in diameter. Move it onto the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining wedges.

Spoon a heaping tablespoon or so of cherry filling onto each piece of dough, leaving an inch or two border. Fold the edge up over the filling, working around to give the dough a pleated look. Don't worry about making the galettes perfect. Part of their charm is the rustic look.

Brush the edges of the galette with water and sprinkle the remaining 2 teaspoons of sugar over the edges. Bake until the galettes are golden brown, about 25 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, ideally with a scoop of ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream.

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Cooking with Mother Goose: Mulberry Gelato

Cooking with Mother Goose: A series of occasional posts inspired by children's stories and rhymes -  just one more way for me to hook the children into the kitchen.

Here We Go 'Round the Mulberry Bush
Here we go round the mulberry bush,
the mulberry bush, the mulberry bush;
Here we go round the mulberry bush
so early in the morning.

Maybe you have a mulberry bush or tree in your yard.  If you do, you probably have cursed it at least once for dripping berries onto something you didn't want stained dark purple.  Maybe you cut it down. I know the sentiment. I have walked through the park behind our house many times and stepped carefully around those berries so that I don't get the juice all over my shoes.

But as they have in so many areas of my life, my daughters have given me a different perspective.  They love those mulberries.  As do the squirrels, who go to amazing gyrations, hanging upside down from the branches, to fill their bellies with berries.  Buddy goes crazy watching them.

And because I am a food-obsessed nut, I have wondered for years if I could cook with mulberries.  I had thought of making a pie or tart with them, but since I usually use about 10 cups of fruit in a pie, it seemed like it would take forever to collect enough. Then, last year, when I read Alice Waters and Chez Panisse, she described making mulberry ice cream. Of course mulberries were out of season by then so I had to wait a year.  But now they're back, spilling their black-purple ink all over the sidewalks.

Adding to my mulberry fever, this past weekend on our long car trip, we listened to Linda Sue Park's Project Mulberry, a story about two kids who set off in search of a mulberry tree for a silkworm project.  In the book, one of the characters describes mulberry ice cream as the best ice cream ever. 

With our Italy trip still very much in mind, gelato sounded even better.  Gelato usually has a lower fat content than ice cream, which according to Gourmet Today, makes the fruit taste more prominent.  Interesting.  I found a recipe in Gourmet Today for cherry gelato, and with a bit of fiddling -- more fruit, some vanilla bean -- I adapted it for mulberries.

The other day, I set off with the children to the park to collect mulberries.  I wish I could tell you that the promise of homemade gelato, made from berries we foraged ourselves, would motivate the children to happily gather as many mulberries as they could.  Instead of skipping along singing while we gathered berries -- okay, not really my vision, but wouldn't that have been nice? -- it was more like this:

"Mulberry picking is stupid.  I don't even like mulberries."

"I have to go to the bathroom."

"I'm thirsty."

"It's so hot."

"I'm tired."

"I just got attacked by ants. AAAHHHHH, they're killer ants!!"

"I think we have enough."

"Can we go now?"

You get the idea. But somehow we did manage to collect a small basketful of berries. I had brought a small stool, and I used it to reach the branches and pull them down low enough so that the kids could pick the berries.

Then we whacked a couple of the higher branches with a long stick and gathered the berries that fell. And soon, without anyone dying of thirst or being swarmed by deadly ants, we had enough for our gelato. 

One note about the berries. There are at least two varieties of mulberries around here, the dark purple ones and the white ones. I always thought that the white ones were just unripe, but friends of ours clued me in that they are actually a different variety and even sweeter than their purple cousins. Just look for the ones on the tree that are tinged slightly pink.

By the time we got home and cooled off, the children were willing to pitch in to make the gelato, picking the stems off of the berries and helping measure and mix. 

And  they were eager to try the finished product. I thought it delivered a pure mulberry flavor. The children loved it, too. Oddly, though, they all thought it tasted a bit like banana. Even though the picking process was somewhat challenging, I hope that by the time the mulberry juice has faded from their fingers, they will have forgotten the cranky bits of the day and remember the picking, making, and eating fondly. I know that's what I plan to do.

So now, when I see those mulberries all over the place, I have a new attitude. If life hands you mulberries. . . make mulberry gelato.

 

Mulberry Gelato

Adapted liberally from Gourmet Today
Makes about 5 cups
40 minutes preparation time
20 minutes cooking time, plus several hours for chilling

1/2 vanilla bean
3 1/2 cups whole milk
pinch of salt
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 1/2 cups fresh mulberries

Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and put them, the vanilla bean pod, and the milk in a small saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil and immediately remove the pot from the heat. Remove the vanilla bean pod.

Whisk the 1/2 cup of sugar and cornstarch together in a small bowl.  Add 1/2 cup of the milk mixture to the cornstarch and mix until it is smooth. Then add the cornstarch-milk mixture back into the saucepan.  Return the saucepan to the stove, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring the mixture to a simmer.  Simmer, whisking constantly, for 3 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and pour it though a strainer into a heat-proof bowl.  The straining might seem to be a bit fussy but it only takes a couple of extra minutes and will result in a creamier gelato. Refrigerate, stirring occasionally, until the mixture has cooled, about an hour.  Then cover the bowl and refrigerate until very cold, about 3 hours.

While the mixture is cooling, prepare the mulberries.  Remove the stems and reserve a few mulberries for decoration if you like. Add the mulberries and the remaining 2 tablespoons of sugar to the bowl of a blender or food processor.  Let the mixture sit for at least half an hour and then pour it through a sieve. Again, this straining will be quick and will be worth it in the end. 

When the milk mixture has cooled, stir in the mulberry juice. Pour the mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to the instructions of your ice cream maker.  When it has finished, transfer it to an air-tight container and freeze for at least 2 hours.

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Rhubarb-Mint Popsicles

One of the things about trying to eat seasonally is that I find myself gorging on whatever is in season because I know it won't last.  This is a good news, bad news situation.  On the bad news side, I am probably buying and eating more that I need.  This spring, I have been buying oodles of strawberries at the market with the intention of baking with them, but they disappear from the refrigerator in a couple of days.  So I haven't baked with those strawberries yet. 

 
I really don't mind, though.  The berries are sweet and delicious and I'm glad that the children appreciate that.  When the season is over, they'll have bellies full of strawberries, sticky, pink fingers, and good memories.  And we'll all be ready to move on to something else.  Blueberries, maybe?  That's the good news. 

We've been mowing through the rhubarb, too.  We have had lots of rhubarb streusel cake, and I have a stash of rhubarb-thyme compote in the refrigerator.  Our latest project, though, was popsicles.  This is a super simple project that the children helped make.  We added a bit of mint and the combination is excellent -- the tart flavor of the rhubarb works nicely with the brightness of the mint.  I didn't purée the mixture so the popsicles are loaded with chunks of fruit.

I couldn't resist helping myself to more rhubarb stalks at this week's market along with a few quarts of strawberries.  I know what I want to make with the strawberries.  But should I stick to an old favorite with the rhubarb or try something new?  What would you make?  

Happy Monday!

Second Helping:  Radish Tartines

Rhubarb-Mint Popsicles

The mint and the rhubarb in the recipe as written create a popsicle with a lot of flavor.  We liked them this way, but if you want to tone it down, add a bit more water and use less mint when you add it at the end.

Makes 5 popsicles
10 minutes preparation time
25 minutes cooking time

5 cups chopped rhubarb
1 1/2 cup sugar
2 tablespoons mint, minced and divided
1 cup water

Put the rhubarb, sugar, and 1 tablespoon of mint in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer.  Simmer with the pot covered until the rhubarb is meltingly soft, about 20 minutes.  Stir in the remaining mint.

Let the mixture cool.  Pour it into popsicle molds.  If you don't have popsicle molds, you can use a standard Dixie cup.  The mixture is thick enough that it will even hold a popsicle stick.  Freeze until the popsicles are frozen solid.

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Monday Rhubarb Streusel Cake

Sometimes you just need a little cake, a little just-because cake.  You know, like a just-because-I-had-the day-off-and-felt-like-baking cake.  Or just-because-it's-Wednesday-and-we're-half-way-through-the-week-cake.  Or just-becase-we're-all-home-for-dinner-with-nowhere-to-rush-to-or-from cake.  Or one of my favorites, just-because-it's-Monday cake.

In general, we try to eat healthy foods, a wide variety of fruits and vegetables, whole grains, and not too many sweets.  But treats are one of the great joys of childhood.  If we weren't meant to have a bit of butter and refined sugar in our lives then why do they taste so darn good together?  OK, I know that's riduculous reasoning, but what could be better than biting into a lovingly homemade treat?  That's got to count for something in the health department.  Right?

 
In that spirit, then, here is a recipe for one of those perfect just-because cakes.  It's not at all fancy, just homey and rustic.  It could be dessert, a snack or, if you really need a pick me up on Monday morning, breakfast.  And with rhubarb in season, this is the perfect time to make it.  

Happy Monday.

Second Helping:  Rhubarb-Thyme Compote

Monday Rhubarb Streusel Cake

The rhubarb in this cake is not agressive; it adds a tartness to contrast with the sweetness of the streusel, but it's not overpowering.  If you want a more assertive flavor, add more rhubarb, more lemon, or both.

2 cups diced rhubarb
1/3 cup sugar
zest from one lemon (about 2 teaspoons)
juice from 1 lemon (about 1 tablespoon)

For the topping:
3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
4 tablespoons butter

For the cake:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla
4 tablespoons butter, softened 
3/4 cup granulated sugar

Place the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.  Butter and flour an 8-inch square baking pan, making sure to shake out any excess flour.  I usually do this by turning it upside down over my sink and gently tapping it on the top of my faucet.  But then again my faucet has begun to leak, so mayber a whack with the heel of your hand would be better.

In a small bowl, stir together the rhubarb, sugar, lemon juice, and lemon zest.  Set aside.

Make the streusel topping by whisking together the flour and sugars.  With your hands, work in the pieces of butter by pinching them repeatedly until they incorporate into the flour and form large clumps.  Set aside.

To make the cake, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a small bowl. In another small bowl or measuring cup, mix together the sour cream and vanilla.  

Beat the butter and sugar together using a mixer at medium-high speed until it is pale and fluffy, about 5 minutes.  Add one third of the flour and, with the mixer on low, combine just until the flour has blended in with the butter mixture.  Add one third of the sour cream and mix briefly.  Continue alternating the flour and sour cream, mixing each time just until the new ingredient has incorporated.  

Spoon the mixture into a pan and smooth it evenly across the pan.  With a slotted spoon, remove the rhubarb and distribute it evenly on top of the batter, leaving any remaining liquid in the bowl. Sprinkle the streusel mixture evenly over the top of the cake.  If you have remaining liquid, drizzle it over the top of the streusel.  Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and the streusel is golden brown, about 50 minutes.

Let the cake cool completely in the pan and then cut it into squares for serving.

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Coeur à la Crème

I was thrilled to find strawberries at the farmers' market this past weekend.  I think that they are available earlier than usual this year because of the warm weather we have had this spring.  Whatever the reason, though, there they were, ushering in berry season and signaling that yes, another year really has passed. 

Chloe had come with me to the market and she suggested that I buy one pint for each of us.  I laughed at first at the thought of so many strawberries, but when I looked at her face I realized that she too was caught up in the possibilities that so many strawberries signaled.  So five pints of strawberries it was.  We are going through them at a quick pace so I think it was a good call.

I was particularly eager to use the berries in a recipe that Merrill Stubbs had posted on food52 for coeur à la crème with strawberries.  I did not know what coeur à la crème was before I saw this, but it is similar to a custard, although made differently, with a combination of ricotta, sour cream, cream cheese, heavy cream, egg whites, and sugar.  Olivia and I joked that it was all of our favorite white foods with a splash of vanilla.  It seemed to be a fancy version of classic strawberries and cream, and I thought it would be fantastic for Mother's Day. 

 
When I say that I thought it would be perfect for Mother's Day, I envisioned sitting on the couch reading while the children buzzed around in the kitchen whipping it up for me.  It didn't quite happen that way, but they did help out quite a bit.  Olivia's friend even pitched in; in fact, she stayed on after my own children had lost interest. 

 
The result was delicious.  The creamy flavor with a bit of tang from the sour cream was the perfect complement to those perfect berries.  Follow this link for the recipe and see my notes below if you are interested in trying it.

A few notes about the process.  I made the dish in a colander, not a heart-shaped mold, so it was more dome than coeur.  But because the mixture is so pliable I probably could have formed it into a heart shape with the cheesecloth.  In fact, I shaped it a bit as I was removing it from the colander and it held its shape well.

I placed the colander over a bowl because I understood that the whey would drain off when it was refrigerated, but it didn't work that way for me.  I wonder whether my cheesecloth was too thick.  It didn't matter in the end, though.  The texture was light and airy and quite delicious. 

To remove it from the colander, I just gathered the cheesecloth at the top and lifted the mixture in the cheesecloth out of the colander and onto a plate.  There, I peeled back the cheesecloth and placed my serving plate on top of the coeur.  I then quickly flipped the plates over so that the serving plate was on the bottom.  Finally, I removed the cheesecloth, and we decorated with the strawberries. 

Second helping:  Strawberry shortcake

Chocolate Banana Cream Pie

For Oscar's actual birthday, the one on his birthday, not the family party or the party with his friends, he requested banana cream pie.  His Uncle Eddie makes a mean banana cream pie, and Oscar wanted one for his birthday.  Because Oscar is such a chocolate lover, I decided to stray from the traditional and make a chocolate pudding instead of the usual vanilla one and make the crust chocolate, too.

It was divine.  I love the combination of the cool sweetness of the pudding and the cream with the texture of the crust.  And one of the great things about this recipe is that if you tire of making it half way through, stop after you make the pudding and serve it just like that.

But if you do get all the way through, it makes a great birthday pie.

 





Second Helping:  Vanilla Bean Pudding

Chocolate Banana Cream Pie

Serves 8
about 1 hour preparation time, plus 3 1/2 hours to chill

for the pudding:
2 cups whole milk
1/2 cup evaporated milk
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup cocoa powder
4 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

for the crust:
4 tablespoons butter
2 cups crushed chocolate cookies (I used Newman's chocolate alphabet cookies)

to finish the pie:
2 bananas
1 cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Mix the whole milk and evaporated milk together in a large measuring cup.  In a medium sauce pan set off of the stove, mix the sugar, cornstarch, salt, and cocoa powder.  Add the milk and evaporated milk in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly.  Whisk in the egg yolks.  Heat the mixture over medium heat, and whisk constantly until the mixture simmers and thickens, about 10 minutes. 

Set a strainer over a bowl and pour the thickened pudding into the strainer.  Mash and stir the pudding to push it through the strainer.  Cover the pudding with plastic wrap by placing the wrap right onto the surface of the pudding so that it does not form a skin.  Let it cool in the refrigerator for about half an hour.

To make the crust, melt the butter and pour it over the cookie crumbs.  Mix thoroughly.  Press the cookie mixture into a 9-inch pie plate.

When the pudding has cooled, pour half of it into the crust.  Place an even layer of bananas on top and then cover with the remaining pudding.  Let the pie chill in the refrigerator until it has cooled completely and has set, about 3 hours. 

Just before serving, whip the heavy cream.  Add the sugar and vanilla and whip until the cream forms soft peaks.  Spread the whipped cream over the top of the filling.  Slice the remaining banana and arrange it over the top of the whipped cream in the pattern of your choice.  Serve immediately.

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Chocolate Sheet Cake with Brown Sugar Buttercream Frosting

I love making homemade cake, but it is so disappointing to make a cake and then realize that a cake mix would have been better.  I have made cakes that are too dry, too wet, too crumbly, not sweet enough, you name it.  And those box mix cakes have gotten better over the years, so it's not that easy to stay a step ahead.

But when we made this chocolate sheet cake from America's Test Kitchen, we knew we had a winner.  Everyone needs a perfect, chocolate cake recipe in their repertoire, and this is ours.  It has a nice crumb and a deep chocolatey flavor.  We have used it for numerous birthday cakes, and it is dense enough to hold up to a bit of rearranging if you have a request for, say, a wizard's hat cake.

 
If you do cut and reshape it, I highly recommend that you first pop it into the freezer for about half an hour.  This firms the edges up just enough to make the cutting and frosting easier and fewer crumbs end up working their way into the final product. 

The frosting that I have made to accompany this cake is Gourmet's Brown Sugar Buttercream frosting.  Yes, yes, it involves a candy thermometer, a stream of hot sugar syrup, and an obscene amount of butter, but it is worth it.  Every bite.  And for me one of the thrills of cooking is that there is always a new challenge to conquer.  Consider it extreme cooking. 

As you might imagine, the frosting is rich and buttery as a good buttercream should be, and the brown sugar gives it a caramel flavor.  I have used the frosting on chocolate and vanilla cakes and it pairs well with either.  Despite the dark brown sugar, the frosting is also light enough in color that it can be tinted to suit your child's whim.

Second Helping (from the archives):  Vanilla Bean Pudding

Chocolate Sheet Cake with Brown Sugar Buttercream Frosting

The cake can be  wrapped in plastic wrap and stored at room temperature for up to 2 days.  The frosting will keep in the refrigerator for 1 week or in the freezer for 1 month.  Before using it, bring it to room temperature and beat it with a mixer until it is smooth again (the butter may separate a bit over time).

Adapted from America's Test Kitchen and Gourmet
Serves 10 to 12
30 minutes preparation time for cake
40 minutes baking time for cake
1 hour preparation time for frosting

For the cake:
12 tablespoons (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter
8 ounces semisweet chocolate, roughly chopped
3/4 cup cocoa, preferably Dutch processed
1 1/4 cups unbleached all purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 large eggs
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup buttermilk

for the frosting:
3 large egg whites, left at room temperature for 30 minutes
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 cup packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup water
1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 sticks unsalted butter, cut into 10 or so pieces and softened
2 teaspoons vanilla extract

First, make the cake.  Position an oven rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.  Generously butter a 9 by 13-inch baking pan.

In a metal bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water, melt the butter and chocolate.  Set aside to cool slightly.  In a small bowl, sift together the cocoa, flour, baking soda, and salt.  Stir together the eggs, sugar, and vanilla in a separate, larger bowl.  Whisk the buttermilk into the egg-sugar mixture and mix until smooth. 

Whisk the chocolate mixture into the egg-sugar bowl, stirring until it is well incorporated.  Mix in the dry ingredients and whisk until the batter is smooth and glossy.  Pour the batter into the pan and smooth it evenly across the top of the pan.

Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes.  (If you want to make this cake as a layer cake, it takes about 35 minutes for 2 9-inch round layers to cook).  Cool the cake in the pan for about an hour, then turn onto a cooling rack to cool it completely before spreading on the frosting. 

While the cake is cooling, make the frosting.  Mix the egg whites and salt together in the bowl of a mixer.

Combine the brown sugar and water in a small pot and bring it to a boil over medium-high heat.  As the syrup bubbles onto the sides of the pot, occasionally brush it down with a pastry brush dipped in cold water. 

When the syrup begins to boil, beat the egg whites at medium-high speed.  When the whites begin to get frothy, add the lemon juice.  Turn the mixer down to medium and beat the egg whites until they just form soft peaks.  Let the whites rest until the syrup is ready.

While the whites are mixing, the sugar syrup should be bubbling away.  Boil it until it reaches 238 to 242 degrees on a candy thermometer.  Immediately pour the syrup into a heat-proof measuring cup. 

Begin beating the egg whites again, this time on high speed.  Slowly add the sugar syrup by pouring it down the side of the bowl.  Continue beating the mixture, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl, until it is cool to the touch, 6 to 8 minutes.  As tempted as you may be, it is important not to skimp on this step or the butter will not mix into the meringue properly. 

Turn the mixture down to medium and add the butter one piece at a time, mixing until the butter incorporates completely after each addition.  If the mixture looks soupy after adding a few pieces of butter, the meringue is likely not cool enough.  Place the mixing bowl into a larger bowl of ice water for about a minute to cool it, then begin mixing and adding the butter again. 

At some point while adding the butter, the mixture will begin to look curdled and you will think you have made a terrible mistake.  But forge ahead.  By the time all of the butter has been added the mixture will become cohesive again.  Add the vanilla and mix for another minute or two.  Add coloring, if desired, and spread onto the cake.

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Roses des Sables

 
In addition to the crêpes, Ophélie taught us how to make this treat, known as Roses des Sables.  She told me that they were made with chocolate and cornflakes, and I have to admit that I was a bit skeptical at first.  But if you think of them as a chocolatey riff on rice crispy treats, they sound much better, don't they?

And they taste fantastic, with their delightful chocolatey crunch.  They are a fun treat for children to make, and could be eaten either for a snack or dessert.

 
Roses des Sables translate as Desert Roses, which are mineral deposits that form when salty bodies of water evaporate.  They're quite beautiful, and this dessert does look like them.  (Wow, I hope that I spell "dessert" and "desert" correctly throughout this post, a challenge even when I'm not writing about Desert Roses). 

Merci, Ophélie!

 

Roses des Sables

10 tablespoons butter
6 ounces dark chocolate
3/4 cup confectioners sugar
approximately 2 cups cornflakes

Clear out a space in your refrigerator that is big enough to hold a cookie sheet.  Line the cookie sheet with parchment paper and set it aside.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat.  Add the chocolate and heat it, stirring occasionally.  Add the sugar and mix thoroughly.  Add about half of the cornflakes and stir until the flakes are completely coated.  Continue adding the cornflakes bit by bit and stirring them until they are completely covered with chocolate.  You may not need all of the cornflakes at first. 

Scoop the mixture out of the pot in heaping tablespoonfuls and arrange them on the parchment paper.  If there is chocolate left in the bottom of the pot as you scoop them out, you may want to add more cornflakes.  Let the Roses des Sables cool in the refrigerator until they are completely firm, several hours or overnight.  They will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several days.

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Crêpes

 
Before Ophélie, the French teacher we hosted, came to visit, we were a bit apprehensive about feeding her.  When we had told her that we were vegetarians, her response was that she didn't like many vegetables. Uh-oh. 

I was determined to find a middle ground, though.  So on the first day of her stay with us, I quizzed her about what she liked.  We found a few common vegetables; lettuce and tomatoes were ok, green beans were tolerable.  But we found lots of overlap in the carbohydrate family.  Pasta, rice, and, of course, bread were on the list.  That gave us a good start.  And Ophélie told us that she likes to make (and eat) crêpes. 

 
Crêpes have the advantage of being one of those foods that can be paired with anything, which is great when you are eating with people with a range of tastes.  Each person can add his or her preferred filling.  We made a big pile of crêpes and put them on the table with shredded Gruyère, goat cheese, sautéed mushrooms, and sautéed spinach. And for dessert, we had them with sugar, sugar and lemon, jam, and Nutella.

 
Ophélie taught us her method of making crêpes, and we all helped.  Olivia and Oscar even took a turn at the stove and Olivia masterd the in-air flip.  The crêpes could be an appetizer, dinner or dessert.  This recipe makes enough to generously serve six for dinner and dessert.  I am looking forward to many more years of making and eating crêpes.  And when we make them, we will think of Ophélie.

 
Second Helping (from the archives): Sage Risotto with Wild Mushrooms

Crêpes

Makes 35-40 crêpes (count on 3 to 5 per person, for dinner and dessert)
15 minutes preparation time
30-60 minutes cooking time

For this number of crêpes, you will need about 4 cups of fillings, such as shredded cheese, goat cheese, sautéed mushrooms, sautéed spinach.  For dessert, consider using sugar alone, freshly squeezed lemon juice with sugar, jam, or Nutella.

4 1/2 cups flour
1 quart milk
10 eggs
canola oil for frying the crêpes

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, milk, and eggs.  Whisk vigorously until most of the lumps are out of the flour and the batter is fairly smooth.  Be patient and recruit helpers, as this will take a bit of time and energy.  Alternatively, you oculd use a blender or food processor, but you'll get much less exercise.

Heat a medium-sized frying pan over medium high heat.  If you have two frying pans, you may want to use both to decrease the cooking time.  And the best scenario is to find someone to work that second pan so you have a cooking partner.

Add about 2 teaspoons of canola oil to the frying pan and swirl it to coat the pan completely.  Add about a quarter of a cup of batter to the pan and immediately swirl it around the pan so that it leaves an even thin layer in the pan.  Cook until the crêpe lifts easily from the pan when you put the edge of a spatula underneath it.  Flip the crêpe and cook it on the other side until it is lightly browned, one to two minutes. 

Generally, the first crêpe will not come out well, but you may still find someone willing to eat it for you.

Repeat this process until you have cooked all of the crêpes.  You should not need to add more oil to the pan.  After you pour in the batter and swirl, it will initially seem that the crêpe will stick and will not come loose from the pan.  But after it cooks for a minute or two, you should be able to get a spatula underneath it and flip it.  For a thrill, loosen the crêpe with a spatula and try flipping it in the air.  The key is to have no fear.  You just have to go for it.

Keep the crêpes warm in the oven as you cook them.  When you are ready to serve, put them on the table alongside the fillings and let everyone build their own.

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Peanut Butter Chocolate Chunk Cookies

 
Do you remember that old jingle, "Sometimes you feel like a nut; sometimes you don't"?  I never understood that ad;  I always feel like a nut.  By that, I mean, of course, that I always feel like eating nuts.  If you interpreted it any other way, you wouldn't be the first. . . 

If you want a trip down memory lane, watch the ad on YouTube:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_AYqZddckc.  The hair, the shorts, the low tech look are quite entertaining.

Anyway, given a choice, I will always choose the nuttier option.  Ice cream, salads, cookies, brownies, banana bread, in my view, they are all enhanced by nuts.  And I'm not too picky about the type.  They all have their place.  I have posted recipes here for almonds in cake and granola.  I have shared recipes for pecans in pie, banana chocolate chip snack cakes, even snow.  I have put pine nuts in pesto and stuffed grape leaves.  So I'm not exaggerating.  I love me some crunchy nuts.

 
Peanuts are no exception.  Peanut butter has long been a staple for me.  I know it is considered a favorite of the younger set, but its resurgence in my life coincided with parenthood.  When I was first pregnant and many foods were unappealing, I could always tolerate peanut butter.  I remember, too, in those early days after Olivia was born, when a successful day was one in which I both ate lunch and took a shower, peanut butter was there for me.  Its convenience makes it hard to beat.  Even now, one of my regular breakfasts on the go is a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. 

And peanut butter cookies are among my favorites.  When I had a hankering to make some peanut butter cookies the other day, I wanted them to be extra nutty.  So I threw in a handful of peanuts.  And some chocolate chunks because chocolate is always a good thing when it comes to cookies.

These cookies still retain the chewiness of a classic peanut butter cookie, but the peanuts and chocolate add more crunchiness to each bite.  And, of course, the chocolate is addictive.  Even Gabe, who usually isn't a fan of nuts in his cookies or the chocolate-peanut butter combination loved these.

Second Helping (from the Archives):  Green Eggs, No Ham

Peanut Butter Chocolate Chunk Cookies

I used dark chocolate chunks in these cookies instead of chips because I love the way they look and taste, but chips would certainly do.

Makes about 40 cookies
15 minutes preparation time
approximately 25 minutes baking time

1 cup unbleached white flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup crunchy (of course!) peanut butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup light brown sugar
1 egg
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup roasted unsalted peanuts
1/2 cup dark chocolate chunks

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Line two cookie sheets with parchment paper.

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and baking powder.  In a separate large bowl, cream together the butter and peanut butter with a mixer on medium high, until they are completely incorporated.  Add the sugars and beat again.  Mix in the egg and vanilla.  Add the flour mixture and blend thoroughly.  Mix in the peanuts and chocolate chunks.

Drop the dough by generous teaspoonfuls onto the sheet.  Bake until the cookies are lightly golden, about 8 minutes.  The cookies will keep their chewiness for several days stored at room temperature in an airtight container.

Snow Scream

 
This has been such an amazing winter of snow storms in this area.  I hope you're enjoying this latest round.  I know it can be terribly inconvenient, but I have to admit that I love a good snowstorm as much as the children do.  It forces us to slow down and stay close to home.  And it's so tranquil.  (Well, except for that chainsaw that woke me up at 6 this morning to chop up a tree that had fallen across the street behind us.)  It reminds me of the first few weeks after each of the kids was born when the whole world stopped and we burrowed in. 

 
A good snow lures us all out, though.  And we inevitably bring some back with us.  I read this article on the blog food and think about eating snow, one of our children's (and now our dog's!) favorite snow activities.  As I often do, I screened out all the stuff I didn't want to know, and I started thinking about what we should top our snow screams with. 

Today, with the help of a couple of friends, we tried out a few different toppings, including chocoate sauce, cookie crumble, vanilla with milk and sugar, orange juice with sugar and milk, maple syurp with pecans, blueberries and sugar.  I thought we would taste them and come to consensus on a favorite, but, instead, everyone liked something different. 

What do you put on your snow scream?

Chocolate Shortcake with Blood Orange Sauce

With Valentine's Day right around the corner, chocolate is definitely on my mind.  I love flourless chocolate cake, but I have made so many of them over the years, that it seemed time for a change. 

This recipe is a twist on an American classic.  I am a huge fan of strawberry shortcake in the summer, but strawberry season is so far away.  It's hard to even imagine picking strawberries when there is snow on the ground.  Instead, I decided to try a winter adaptation of that fantastic combination of not-too-sweet shortcake, fruit, and cream.  This recipe brings the chocolate, fruit and cream into perfect balance.  Oranges are delicious with chocolate, and blood oranges are sweet without any acid or bitterness.  They are a fantastic color, too.  I used Moro blood oranges, which are an intense ruby red on the inside.

There is something about the messiness of the cake, with a bit of cream here (let me get that for you) and red orange sauce there (the color of the season), that is perfect for Valentine's Day.   I gave the children a slice to share so that they could let me know what they thought, and the cake was snarfed down before it got three thumbs up. 

I posted this recipe on food52.com, a site that holds a weekly contest for recipes.  Winning recipes will be compiled into a cookbook.  Check out the site to see lots of recipes, including many chocolate cake ones, and, if you like, comment on my recipe.

And from the archives, don't forget about:  Banana Chocolate Chip Snack Cakes.

Chocolate Shortcake with Blood Orange Sauce

Serves 8-10
30 minutes preparation time
30 minutes cooking time

for the shortcake:
1/2 cup cocoa powder
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, cut into 8 to 10 pieces
1 1/3 cups milk

for the sauce:
8 blood oranges
2 tablespoons sugar

for the cream:
2 cups heavy cream
2 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 425 degrees and butter and flour two 8-inch round cake pans.

In a medium-sized bowl, sift together the cocoa powder, flour, baking powder, and sugar.  With your fingers, mix the butter in until it ranges in size from small pebbles to grains of sand.  Add the milk and mix with a fork to incorporate.  The dough will look like a mess, shaggy and lumpy.  But don't worry; it will bake up just fine.

Pour half of the dough into each pan and use a spatula to spread it evenly to the edges of the pan. Bake until a toothpick comes out clean, 10 to 12 minutes.  Let the shortcakes cool in the pan for about 30 minutes. 

While the cakes are cooking and cooling, prepare the orange sauce.  Using a small sharp knife, slice the top and bottom off each orange.  Resting the orange on a cutting board on one of the cut ends, cut off the peel from top to bottom making sure to remove all of the pith.  Cut out each section of the orange by cutting between the white section dividers, which I just learned are called carpels.  Reserve the carpels and any pulp.  Repeat this for the remaining oranges. 

Using your hands, squeeze the juice from the pulp and carpels into a small bowl. At this point, your hands will be red with the juice of the oranges.  By the time you are finished washing up the dishes after making the cake, though, the color will have rinsed off and your hands will have returned to their usual hue.

Pour the juice and half of the orange sections into a small stockpot.  Add the 2 tablespoons of sugar.  Cook the sauce over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until it thickens, about 15 minutes.  Set aside to cool.  When the sauce has cooled, stir in the remaining orange sections.

Whip the cream with a mixer until it holds soft peaks.  Add the sugar and vanilla and mix for a few more seconds.

After the cakes have cooled, remove them from their pans by running a knife around the sides of the pans and turning them out onto a serving plate.  Once assembled with the cream and sauce, the cake will need to be eaten immediately (such hardship!) so if you are not eating it all at one meal, cut slices of the cake first and assemble individual servings.  

Place the first layer on a serving plate.  Spoon a generous amount of the orange sauce over the bottom layer and top with a couple of tablespoons of whipped cream.  Don't skimp on the sauce.  It gives the whole concoction moisture and balances the flavor.  Add the top layer.  If you like, add another dollop of whipped cream, and drizzle a bit of sauce on top.

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Robin's Egg Meringues

A few weekends ago, I was engaging in my favorite Sunday afternoon activity, reading the Sunday New York Times and dozing between sections.  I treasure the afternoons when I can do that.  We have a big sectional couch in our family room that can hold all five of us at once.  And that is exactly how I like it on a Sunday afternoon.  All of us sitting or lying on the couch, reading, resting, or playing quietly. 

So there we were one Sunday afternoon when I heard Olivia gathering Oscar and Chloe in a hushed voice.  I wasn't sure what they were up to, but I knew it was something.  So I continued to read and doze.  Or maybe I should say doze and read.  When I finally pulled myself out of the couch, I followed their voices to the kitchen. 

There they all were, flouring, mixing, and generally conspiring.  I didn't care what they were making; it was great to see them collaborating.  They wanted their creation to be a secret so I went back to the couch.

It turned out that they were making meringues from Mary Poppins in the Kitchen:  A Cookery Book with a Story.  I picked the book up at a book sale in the spring when the children were going through a period of singing many of the songs from the soundtrack (especially The Perfect Nanny, I Love to Laugh, and Let's Go Fly a Kite).  Olivia tweaked the recipe here and there to make it her own, including adding blue food coloring.  When my children get together in the kitchen they often consider the color as much as the taste.

Gabe dubbed them "blumeringues," which I thought was very clever.  But the children had already come up with their own name based on the color:  robin's egg meringues.  So sweet (the meringues, too)!

Robin's Egg Meringues

Adapted from Mary Poppins in the Kitchen
15 minutes preparation time
40-45 minutes, baking time, plus an hour for cooling

3 eggs
pinch of salt
1 teaspoon cream of tartar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
food coloring (optional)

Preheat the oven to 250 degrees.  Lightly butter and flour two baking sheets.

Beat the egg whites with a mixer on medium-high speed.  Add the salt and cream of tartar and mix until the mixture holds its shape.  Add the sugar and continue to beat until the mixture is shiny and quite firm.  Using a tablespoon, drop the mixture onto the baking sheets, leaving an inch or more between the meringues.

Bake in the oven for 40 to 45 minutes, until the meringues are firm to the touch.  Turn the oven off and let the meringues sit in the oven for an additional hour with the oven door open.  Serve immediately.

The meringues will keep in an airtight container for a few days.

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