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Pumpkin Pie

I love that pumpkin tarte tartin, it's true, but still, there's something about the creamy tradition of pumpkin pie. I've just gotta have it on Thanksgiving.

I've been testing and tweaking my pumpkin pie recipe for years, trying to get it just right. To me, the perfect pumpkin pie is smooth and creamy with a crisp crust. It should have all of those great fall spice flavors, but they shouldn't be so overwhelming that you can't taste the pumpkin. I also like just a hint of brightness to add a bit of pop.

Last year, on Food 52, there was a recipe for pumpkin pie from Meta Given's Modern Encyclopedia of Cooking, a book I did not know. The article described the flavor as pumpkin-y, the texture as smooth, and the cooking time as quick. It all sounded good to me. I tried the recipe, but decided it needed a little extra something to bring up the flavors. I added a touch of fresh lemon zest and fresh ginger and it added just that touch of dazzle that I wanted while still keeping the intense pumpkin flavor. Interestingly, that citrus-y flavor receded after a couple of days in the refrigerator so keep that in mind while planning when to make the pie.

I also deviated from the recipe by pre-baking the crust. Although the recipe indicated that the crust did not need to be baked first, I didn't want to end up with a mushy crust, so I did blind bake mine, cutting back the baking time so that the crust didn't get too dark.

Note that this is the same crust as for the sweet potato and cranberry tart, or my un-corny pecan pie, so if you are making more than one pie/tart, you could make both crusts at once.

That's it, my friends. My last pre-Thanksgiving recipe. I hope you find something you like among these recipes and, if you decide to give any of it a go, I'd love to hear any questions or comments you have.

Happy cooking!

Pumpkin Pie

The pumpkin can be roasted up to a week in advance, and the dough for the crust can be made several days ahead. If possible, I would bake the pie on Thanksgiving eve or in the morning so that the crust doesn't lose its crunch.

 Adapted from Food 52 from The Encyclopedia of Cooking by Meta Givens
Serves 8
2 hours and 30 minutes preparation time, which includes 1 hour to prepare and bake the crust
    and 1 hour to roast the pumpkin
20-25 minutes baking time

1 pre-baked tart crust*
1 small sugar pumpkin
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated lemon zest
1 cup of milk
1/2 cup of cream
2 eggs

additional cream to whip with a touch of sugar and vanilla, for serving

Preheat oven to 425.

Cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds, and lay it face down on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or foil. Roast the pumpkin until it is soft, 45 minutes to an hour. Remove the pumpkin from the oven and let it cool enough to handle. Scoop out the flesh and mash it with a potato masher. The pumpkin can be stored in an airtight container like this for up to a week.

To finish the pie: *Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees and follow the instructions for preparing the pre-baked pie crust, but adjust the cooking times as follows: bake the crust covered for 10 minutes, uncover and bake for 5 minutes. 

Measure 2 cups of the mashed pumpkin into a small sauce pan. Cook it over medium heat for 10-15 minutes until it dries out and becomes fragrant. There is no need to add any water or oil because there is plenty of water in the pumpkin.

Mix the sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, salt, ginger, and lemon zest together in a small bowl and add them to the pumpkin. Mix the cream, milk, and eggs together in a measuring cup and add it to the pumpkin mixture. Whisk until smooth. Pour the filling into the crust and bake for 20 to 25 minutes until there the only jiggle that is left is in the center. If the crust gets dark too quickly, reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees.

Remove from the oven and let cool before serving.

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Pumpkin Tarte Tatin

I'm working up a good obsession for Tarte Tatin. Something about that caramelized flavor with fruit and a delicious flaky crust makes me go weak in the knees.

I posted a recipe a while back for pear Tarte Tatin, but with Thanksgiving on the horizon, I thought I should try pumpkin.

I'm glad I did.

You really can't go wrong with caramel. What's not to love about butter and sugar melted together into a sweet golden puddle? It's even better with the pumpkin, which seems to lend itself to those deep caramel flavors.

I know that some people are a bit intimidated by making caramel or Tarte Tatin, but there really is no reason for that. It's quite straightforward.

There are a two points during this recipe that may seem daunting, namely trying to peel that little pumpkin and flipping the tart onto the serving plate. But that pumpkin is way smaller than you are and once you get going you will have it peeled in just a few minutes. And flipping the tart really just takes more courage than skill. Take a deep breath, flip fast, and you will be fine.





Just clear your  mother and small children out of the kitchen before you start on the off chance that an epithet or two flies out of your mouth.

When you're done, you will feel incredibly satisfied by the beautiful tart that you have created. And, most importantly, your taste buds will thank you.

Pumpkin Tarte Tatin

The Tarte can be made a day or two ahead and kept, wrapped in plastic wrap, in the refrigerator. Warm the Tarte on a cookie sheet for about 20 minutes at a 300 degree oven just before serving.

30 minutes preparation time, plus an hour to bake the pumpkin and 30 minutes to chill the dough
approximately 40 minutes cooking time

For the dough:
1 1/3 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, frozen or chilled and cut into about 10 pieces*
1 egg

For the filling:
1 small sugar pumpkin
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon vanilla
vanilla ice cream for serving (optional)

First, cook and prep the pumpkin: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Cut off the top of the pumpkin with a serrated knife. Wrap the pumpkin in foil and bake until it begins to soften, about 40 minutes.

Remove the pumpkin from the oven and carefully unrap the foil. When the pumpkin is cool enough to handle, cut it in half from top to bottom and scoop out the seeds. Peel off the skin with a potato peeler. At first, this will seem nearly impossible because the skin is quite hard. Persevere. Once you get going, you will conquer that little pumpkin and the peel will be off in a couple of minutes. Slice the pumpkin into half inch sections from top to bottom. The flesh will be easy to cut but still quite firm.

While the pumpkin is cooking, make the dough: *You have two options here for making the dough. You can use the traditional food processor approach or a new technique that I just learned from Amanda Hesser at Food52. For Amanda's approach, whisk the flour, confectioners' sugar, and salt together in a medium-sized bowl. Using a stick of frozen butter, unwrap one end and grate it on the largest holes of a box grater. The butter will curl off into small shavings. Keep unwrapping the butter and grating until you have grated the entire stick. Add the butter to the flour mixture, crack the egg on top, and lightly scramble it. Mix everything together with your hands, breaking up any large pieces of butter. Push the dough into the shape of a ball and smash the ball onto the counter. All of the flour may not incorporate at this point, or the ball may crumble apart, but stick with it. Smear the ball across the counter to evenly incorporate the butter. As you do this, work in any flour that didn't incorporate initially. Just do this for as long as it takes to work in all the flour; don't overwork it.

To make the dough in a food processor, pulse the flour, confectioners' sugar, and salt together in a food processor. Add the butter and pulse until the butter ranges in size from that of a small pebble to that of cornmeal. Empty the flour mixture into a bowl, and crack the egg on top. Lightly scramble the egg and then, using your hands, work it into the dough until the dough starts to come together.

Roll the dough into a ball, and then flatten it into a disc. Wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes and up to a couple of days.

Assemble and cook the tart: When you are ready to cook the tart, turn the oven to 400 degrees. 

Unwrap the dough and roll it out into a circle that is an inch or two larger than the diameter of your pan.

Heat the butter in an 8 or 9-inch oven-proof skillet over medium heat. When the butter has melted, stir the sugar and salt into the butter and spread them evenly across the pan. 

Add the pumpkin slices one next to the other around the pan. Once you have finished the first layer, fit as many additional slices as you can in a second layer, filling in the gaps between the pumpkin pieces from the first layer. Squeeze in as many as you can because they will reduce slightly in size as they cook. Cut a few sections to fit into the middle of the tart.

Turn the heat up to medium-high and cook the pumpkin until the sugar turns a rich, dark brown and bubbles, about 5 minutes. Rotate the pan if needed to ensure that the sugar browns evenly. Sprinkle the vanilla over the top of the pumpkin and remove the pan from the heat.

Lift the dough with a spatula or a rolling pin and carefully drape it over the pan. Taking care not to burn your fingers, tuck the edge of the dough along the side of the pan. If you have measured accurately, the dough should just fit with a bit extra to slip down into the sides. If you do what I usually do and roll it a bit too big, just squeeze it into the pan. Don't worry if the dough is a bit lumpy because this will be the underside of the tart when you are done. Place the pan in the oven and let it cook until the crust is lightly browned, 25 to 30 minutes. 

Remove the pan from the oven and let the tart cool for 15 minutes or more. Place a large serving plate over the top of the pan. With oven mitts or pot holders, pick up the pan with the plate on top and quickly flip the pan over so that the tart inverts onto the plate. I recommend that you do this over a surface that is easy to clean (or the sink) because more than once a bit of caramel has oozed out of the side as I flip the pan. Serve warm or at room temperature, ideally with vanilla ice cream.

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Sweet Potato and Cranberry Tart

Years ago -- please don't make me tell you how many -- I worked a waitress at the Spring Mill Cafe outside of Philadelphia. The restaurant was tiny and to prepare for dinner, the owner often had the waitstaff in the kitchen making soups, whisking vinaigrette, juicing oranges, and glazing cakes. Apparently, we also made sweet potato and cranberry tart. The owner also opened a bottle of wine before each meal and we all toasted and sipped before the dinner rush. Maybe that's why I remember my waitressing days so fondly. Or maybe it was the wad of cash that I shoved into my pocket at the end of the night.

Anyway, this tart balances the creamy sweetness of the sweet potato with the tart crispness of the cranberries all in one dish. No reason to serve them separately because they are so much better together. I only add a little bit of sugar to the cranberries so that they remain fairly tart to enhance that contrast. Each bite offers a bit of creaminess and a bit of zest. The yin and yang of Thanksgiving sides.

As Oscar said, it tastes just like Thanksgiving. All these years later, it's still one of my favorites.

There it is, folks. The last of my five-side-dishes-for-Thanksgiving parade. I hope you have found something in these that appeals to you. If you don't get them made by Thanksgiving, they will still make tasty side dishes to some other meals. They will be here, waiting for you, all autumn and winter.

And now that we're done with the savory, we can move on to dessert! I've been cooking up a storm and will have a couple of Thanksgiving dessert recipes for you.

Sweet Potato and Cranberry Tart

Because this side dish is served in a tart shell it is fairly substantial and could stand as a main course for the vegetarians at your table.

The dish can be assembled a day and reheated just before serving in a 300 degree oven for about 20 minutes.

30 minutes preparation time, plus 1 hour to prepare and pre-bake the tart crust
30 minutes baking time

1 Pre-Baked Tart Crust
2 large sweet potatoes
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1/2 cup cream
8 ounces (2 cups) cranberries
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon lemon zest
salt and pepper

Prepare and prebake the tart shell according to these instructions. Slide the tart pan onto a cookie sheet so that it is easier to move without the bottom panel popping out.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into large chunks. Put them in a medium stockpot with a few shakes of salt and cover with water. Bring to a boil and simmer until the sweet potatoes are soft, about 20 minutes. Reserve about 1/2 cup of the cooking water and drain off the remaining water.

Turn the potatoes into the bowl of a food processor, add the cream, and blend until smooth. If needed to make the sweet potatoes smooth, add some of the reserved cooking water a splash at a time. The puree should be as stiff as possible so that it holds its shape in the tart. Taste and add additional salt and pepper if needed.

In another stockpot, add the cranberries, about a cup of water, the sugar, and the lemon zest. Cover the pot and bring it to a simmer. Keep it covered because as the cranberries cook, they will pop open and you don't want them flying all over your kitchen. Simmer until the cranberries have all popped open and are soft, about 20 minutes. Mash them with a potato masher until the mixture is the texture of a thick fruit jam. If it is too thin, let it simmer for a few more minutes uncovered.

After the tart shell has baked, smooth just over half of the sweet potato mixture over the bottom of the shell, reserving the remaining sweet potato. Next add a layer of the cranberry sauce, spreading it evenly across the top of the sweet potato. There may be more than you need. Reserve a few tablespoons of the cranberry mixture to put on top of the last layer.

Layer the remaining sweet potato on top of the cranberry layer. Don't worry about spreading the layer too evenly; you want some of the cranberry sauce peeking through. Add a few dollops of the remaining cranberry mixture for color.

Bake the tart until it heats through, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for a few minutes before serving.

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Autumn Green Salad with Roasted Beets, Pears, and Almonds

I've already confessed that I'm terrible at following through with my intentions to make a snazzy drink for dinner party. I might as well get this out on the table, too: salad is usually an afterthought.

I love, love, love, having salad with dinner or -- even better -- as its own course, but I start with dessert, the most important course, and then usually get sidetracked making the main course and the side dishes.

The next thing you know it's 10 minutes before our guests arrive, we have no salad, and I combing through the bottom of the vegetable bin to see what is left there that I can turn into something salad-worthy. Sometimes the result actually works and is an unusual combination that I never planned. But usually it's less than inspiring.

A little crunch from a fresh green salad is especially key at Thanksgiving to balance out all those soft comfort foods. Mashed potatoes, stuffing, sweet potatoes, even roasted vegetables. All great stuff but not much there in the way of texture. For us vegetarians, there isn't even the chewiness of the turkey.

This year I'm going to do it right.

This salad uses beets and pears to celebrate the season, alongside fresh greens. I added a bit of arugula for its peppery flavor, but not enough to overwhelm the milder flavors of the pears and beets. I even bought dill. At the store. Instead of frantically dashing out at T minus 3 to the herb garden to see what was still growing, I actually planned in advance and put dill on the list.

I'm guessing that this forethought will be an aberration in my planning approach. But this year, anyway, we'll have a tasty seasonal salad at Thanksgiving.

And now I can turn my attention to dessert.

Autumn Green Salad with Roasted Beets, Pears, and Almonds

The parts of this salad can be made in advance. The beets can be raosted, the almonds toasted, the greens washed, and the dressing whisked. The pears can even be diced a few hours in advance. Just toss them with a bit of the dressing to keep them from turning brown.

Serves 8
20 minutes preparation time
20-40 minutes roasting time

8 handfuls of a mix of seasonal greens and arugula
4 medium-sized beets, red or golden
2 Bosc pears
1/4 cup Champagne or white wine vinegar
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup sliced almonds
2 tablespoons chopped dill
salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

Wrap the beets in foil and arrange them on a baking sheet. Roast until the beets are tender. Depending on the size of the beets, this will take anywhere from 20 to 45 minutes.

When the beets have cooked, set them aside until they are cool enough to handle. Peel off the foil and slip the skins off with your hands.

Slice the beets into bite-sized chunks. Wash the pears, slice and core them and cut them into bite-sized pieces.

Whisk together the oil, vinegar, salt pepper, and dill.

Put the greens in a large bowl. Add about half of the dressing and toss with the greens. Taste and, if needed, add additional dressing. You may not need it all. Sprinkle the pears, almonds, and beets over the top of the salad.

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Roasted Cauliflower or Brussels Sprouts, with Options

This is the simplest of the side dishes in this week's parade, but if you haven't had these vegetables roasted, you must. Today.

Cauliflower and Brussels sprouts are everywhere these days, from farmers' markets to the grocery store. I love the crazy wild purple and yellow cauliflowers from the farmers' market and the stalk of Brussels sprouts from Trader Joe's.

Roasting cauliflower and Brussels sprouts gives them a deep, rich flavor that is more than worth the 10 minutes it takes to prepare the vegetables and toss them with a bit of olive oil. I am convinced that roasting is the reason that all three of our kids love cauliflower. It hasn't won them over on the Brussels sprouts, but as you know, I do not give up easily. I keep trotting roasted Brussels sprouts out onto the dinner table and one of these days, I expect that, like their mother, they will eat these right out of the pan because they can't wait the three minutes between pulling the pan from the oven and sitting down to dinner.

If you already have enough strong flavors on your Thanksgiving table, just roast some cauliflower or Brussels sprouts with a bit of garlic and salt and, I promise they will not disappoint. But if you want to try something a bit more creative, I've got options.

The first is to toss the roasted vegetables with parsley-lemon-garlic just before serving. It will add freshness and brighten up the flavors, a nice contrast to the earthiness from roasting.

Or you could roast some onions alongside the vegetables, slice them, and toss them with the vegetables and some toasted almonds for a riff on the standard green beans with onion and almonds.

Finally, if you add some pimenton to the vegetables before roasting them, they will develop a deep smoky flavor while cooking. Toss on a few toasted pumpkin seeds after the cooking process and you have a fantastic, but very simple, side dish.

You could also mix it up for Thanksgiving. Serve half of the veggies with the one of the optional enhancements and the other half au naturel. It would be interesting to see which disappear first.

Roasted Cauliflower or Brussels Sprouts

 You can, of course, roast both Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, but cook them in separate pans because the cooking times will vary. The vegetables can be roasted ahead and reheated just before serving. Be sure not to overcook them during the first roasting so that they don't become overly mushy when you reheat them. If you are going with one of the options, add the parsley-lemon-garlic mixture or nuts after reheating.

Serves 8 as a side dish
Approximately 10 minutes preparation time
20-30 minutes roasting time

1 head cauliflower, cut into florets or 6 cups Brussels sprouts, with the ends trimmed off
olive oil for drizzling, approximately 2 tablespoons
2 garlic cloves smashed
salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 425 degrees.

In a large roasting pan, arrange the cauliflower florets or Brussels sprouts in a single layer. Drizzle on the olive oil, sprinkle some salt and pepper over the top, and mix everything together with the garlic cloves.

Roast until the vegetables are tender but not mushy. The time will depend on the size of your florets or sprouts, but start checking for doneness at about 20 minutes. The vegetables should be easy to pierce with a knife.

Option 1: With Parsley, Lemon, and Garlic

1/2 cup chopped parsley
1 garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons lemon zest

Follow the instructions for roasting above.

While the vegetables are roasting, mix the parsley, garlic, and lemon zest together in a small bowl. After the vegetables have finished roasting, toss on the parsley mixture and stir gently to completely coat the vegetables.

Option 2: With Roasted Onion and Almonds

1 large sweet onion, such as Vidalia, peeled and sliced lengthwise into eighths
1/4 cup sliced almonds

Follow the instructions for roasting above, but add the onion to the roasting pan and roast it alongside the cauliflower or Brussels Sprouts.

While the vegetables are cooking, toast the almonds in a sauté pan over medium heat, tossing them a few times, until they are fragrant and begin to turn golden, 2-3 minutes.

When the vegetables have finished cooking, remove the onion chunks. Let them cool for a minute on a cutting board, then slice them into bite-sized pieces. Toss the onion pieces and almonds back into the vegetables and serve.

Option 3: With Smoked Paprika and Pepitas

2 teaspoons Pimenton (smoked paprika)
1/4 cup shelled pepitas (pumpkin seeds)

In a small bowl, whisk the smoked paprika with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Drizzle the olive oil onto the cauliflower or Brussels sprouts and roast as instructed above.

If the pepitas are not pre-roasted, toast them in a sauté pan, tossing them a few times. Cook until they are fragrant, about 3 minutes.

When the vegetables have finished roasting, add the pepitas and serve.

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Wild Mushroom and Potato Parcels

Picture a platter of small parcels on your buffet table, each wrapped in brown paper and tied with twine. A small gift for each guest to untie and enjoy at the table.

The insides are just as fantastic. Laced with tarragon and chives, when opened, these parcels release a fragrant puff of steam, enticing you to inhale another whiff and luring you to dig your fork in so that you can taste that scent. The mushrooms and potatoes cook with the herbs, wine, and cream to create a little pouch of flavor. You have got to give these a try.

The recipe is adapted from a recipe in Plenty. I love that cookbook! I fiddled with the proportions and herbs and I swapped out the anise-flavored liquor in favor of white wine, which was excellent. I don't know about you, but I don't have Pernod lying around my house and I didn't want to buy a bottle just for the few tablespoons that I needed for the recipe. White wine, on the other hand, I have. The dish is also hearty enough that it could be a main course for the vegetarians.

I recommend serving these along side something that will soak up the flavors of the sauce. Mashed potatoes or an herbed rice would be perfect and even a mildly-flavored stuffing would do nicely. Bread would also do the trick. And in our house there is always bread.

Wild Mushroom and Potato Parcels

The potatoes for this recipe can be cooked a day or two ahead and the mushrooms cleaned and sliced. I would wait until Thanksgiving morning to chop the herbs and toss everything together. The parcels can also be assembled in the morning and refrigerated until you are ready to pop them into the oven.

Adapted from Plenty
Serves 8
Approximately 30 minutes preparation time
20 minutes cooking time

9 cups of a mix of wild and crimini mushrooms
approximately a dozen baby potatoes
3 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
1/2 cup chopped chives
1/2 cup chopped tarragon
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons dry white wine
1/2 cup heavy cream
salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Scrub the potatoes and put them in a medium-sized stockpot with their skins still on. Cover with water, bring to a boil, and simmer until tender. The cooking time will vary depending on the size of the potatoes, and could be anywhere from 10 to 25 minutes. The potatoes should be tender when sliced with a knife but not too soft because they will cook a bit more when they bake in the parcels. Once the skins begin to burst, they are done. Drain the potatoes into a colander and let them cool.

While the potatoes are cooking, clean the mushrooms with a vegetable brush or a paper towel. Remove any large or woody stems and trim the ends off of any smaller stems. Slice the mushrooms and put them in a large bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and mix everything together gently so that the mushrooms do not break. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.

Cut 8 pieces of parchment paper at least 13 inches square. Evenly distribute the mushroom-potato mixture among the squares. Pull up the corners of the parchment paper and scrunch the paper together tightly just above the filling. Tie with cotton twine.

Arrange the parcels on a baking sheet with an inch or so between them. Bake for 17 minutes. (If you re removing straight from the refrigerator to the oven, allow an extra minute or two). Remove from the oven. The original recipe says that the parcels need to rest for a minute, but I found that by the time we arranged them on plates or a serving platter, enough time had passed.

Serve the parcels as they are so that each diner can open his or her own bundle. The parcels can be eaten in the parchment paper or the parchment can be removed. Have a bowl handy for the wrappers in case your guests choose the latter option.

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Cardamom Roasted Butternut Squash with Lime-Yogurt Drizzle

Are you a traditionalist at Thanksgiving, wanting the comfort of your favorite dishes each year? Or are you adventurous, eagerly branching out to try something new?

Whichever camp you find yourself in, chances are you will be seated at a table with someone from the competing camp. Or maybe there is a little bit of both camps in you.

To make everyone happy, my solution is to play with the side dishes. Keep the turkey (for you meat eaters) and stuffing, a traditional side or two, and pumpkin and pecan pie. But add something new this year, some new flavors or vegetables -- nothing too wild, but just enough to keep things interesting.

To help you with this, I'm going to give you a week of side dishes starting today. I have five side dishes to share, all with vegetables that are in season and available at the farmers' market now. They'll shake things up a bit and I'll get them to you in time to hit the market next weekend.

For the vegetarians, a couple of these sides, along with some mashed potatoes and stuffing, would round out a meal. If you want a heartier main course, serve them along side that cauliflower tart or vegetable shepherd's pie).

If my ability keeps pace with my ambition, I may even have a dessert recipe for you at the end of the week.

This first side dish recipe is derived from a recipe in Plenty, one of my favorite cookbooks for party food these days (see past posts here and here). We made it for a first course for a dinner party last weekend and I loved the flavors. The warmth of the cardamom was fantastic with the butternut squash and the contrast with the cool flavors of the tangy yogurt sauce, lime, hot peppers, and cilantro elevated the dish beyond the ordinary.

The preparation involved brushing the individual pieces of squash with the cardamom mixture, sectioning limes, making a yogurt sauce, and separately scattering on limes, hot peppers, and cilantro. The presentation was lovely to serve on individual plates but a bit too fiddly to serve with a weeknight meal or on the buffet at Thanksgiving.

So I switched it up, cutting the squash into large chunks, tossing them with the spiced and roasting them. To simplify the accompaniments, I combined all of the flavors into one sauce. Granted the result was not as pretty, but it was simpler to prepare, easy to serve family style, and maybe even a bit tastier because each bite was an explosion of all the flavors. Try it!

Cardamom Roasted Butternut Squash with Lime-Yogurt Drizzle

Depending on the heat of the pepper you use, the dish may have a bit of a kick to it. Since spiciness is not a common flavor on traditional Thanksgiving tables, you may want to warn your dinner companions.

The yogurt sauce can be made up to a day early and the butternut squash can be roasted a few days ahead. Just undercook it so that when it reheats it doesn't get too soft. When the pan cools, wrap it tightly with plastic wrap. Reheat it just before serving dinner. 

Adapted from Plenty
Serves 6 as a side dish
30 minutes preparation time
30 minutes roasting time

For roasting the squash:
1 large butternut squash
1 1/2 tablespoons cardamom pods
1 teaspoon allspice
1/2 teaspoon salt
a few grinds of pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil

For the yogurt drizzle:
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons tahini
1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice
1 jalapeno, minced
2/3 cup cilantro leaves, chopped

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Trim the top and bottom off the butternut squash. Set the squash on its bottom and slice it down lengthwise. Scoop out the seeds and discard them.

Peel the butternut squash and dice it into large chunks. I left mine quite large, maybe 2 inches per side so that they would retain some shape when roasted. Arrange the squash in a single layer in a roasting pan.

To prepare the spice mixture, pound the cardamom pods with a mortar and pestle until the pods crack open. Pour out the pods onto a cutting board or plate and separate the pods from the seeds inside. (Granted, this process seems like it will be very time consuming, but it only took a few minutes and the resulting fresh cardamom is worth the effort.) Return the seeds to the mortar and pound again until the seeds are finely ground. 

Empty the ground seeds into a small bowl. Add the allspice, salt, and pepper and whisk together. Add the olive oil and whisk again. Pour the spice mixture over the squash and mix it with your hands or a wooden spoon so that it thoroughly coats the squash pieces. Roast until the squash is tender when pierced with a knife, but not mushy. The roasting time will depend on the size of the squash pieces, but count on somewhere between 20 and 40 minutes.

While the squash is roasting, prepare the yogurt sauce. Whisk the yogurt and tahini together with the lime juice. Add the cilantro and jalapeno and mix again. Taste and add salt and pepper to taste. The dressing will be quite tart, but resist the urge to temper it because it is excellent with the sweetness of the squash.

When the squash has finished roasting, arrange it onto a serving platter or into a large bowl, taking care to keep the pieces intact. The squash can be served hot or at room temperature. Just before serving, drizzle the yogurt sauce over the top or serve it in a small pitcher on the side.

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Cauliflower and Gorgonzola Tart

Those of you have been reading this blog for a while know that my sister, Sarah, and her husband, Ed, own Black Ankle Vineyards, the best vineyard in Maryland. And I'm not just saying that because Sarah's my sister. Their goal was to show that excellent wine can be made in Maryland and, against the odds, they have done exactly that.

It has been amazing to watch over the past 10 years as they built their business from an idea to a successful, thriving enterprise. It has been a phenomenal amount of work, with long days and nights and zillions of decisions -- big and little -- along the way.

I like to joke that it is best to be the sister of someone who owns a vineyard. I get to enjoy the results without the stress and exhaustion that yielded those results.

When Melissa, Black Ankle's fantastic manager, asked me if I would be willing to put together a recipe to send out with the quarterly wine club shipment, I loved the idea. For the first shimpment, we wanted a dish that would complement the 2011 Bedlam. After tasting the wine on its own (tough work!) around the dinner table one night, we hit on the idea of a dish that would include a blue cheese as well as a hearty vegetable such as broccoli, cauliflower, or green beans.

The cauliflower won out and after a couple of tries, I settled on the creamy mildness of Gorgonzola to go along with it. The tart is substantial enough to be served as a main course with a big green salad and a slab of good bread. It would make an excellent main course for any vegetarians at your Thanksgiving table. Cut into smaller slices, it also could be served as an appetizer or a side dish.

Either way, serve it with a chilled bottle of the Bedlam 2011 and a toast to someone you love. Cheers!

2009: Vegetable Shepherd's Pie
2010: Pumpkin Soup with a(n optional) Kick
2011: Garlicky Cuban Yuca

Cauliflower and Gorgonzola Tart

Serves 8 as a main course
Approximately 1 hour preparation time, plus time for the dough to chill
Approximately 1 hour cooking time

This tart is substantial enough to be served as a main course with a big green salad and a slab of good bread. It would make an excellent main course for any vegetarians at your Thanksgiving table. Cut into smaller slices, it also could be served as an appetizer or a side dish.

For the dough:
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 stick (8 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into about 10 pieces
1/2 cup white wine*
1 egg, lightly scrambled

For the filling:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 small cauliflower, cut into bite-sized florets
a splash or two of white wine
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 1/2 tablespoons chopped sage leaves
4 tablespoons chives, snipped with scissors or chopped
salt and pepper to taste
4 eggs, lightly beaten
3 ounces Gorgonzola, crumbled

Make the crust: Whisk the flour and salt together in a medium-sized bowl. Add the butter and work it into the flour with your fingers until the butter bits range in size from grains of sand to small pebbles. Add the white wine and egg and mix with a wooden spoon or your hands until the egg and wine are fully incorporated into the flour. The dough will be sticky.

Form the dough into a ball and flatten it slightly into a disk Wrap in plastic wrap and put in the refrigerator to chill for at least an hour (or as long as a couple of days).

Make the filling: Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent and has softened, 6-7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and scrape the onion into a large bowl. Set aside. Wipe the pan out with a paper towel.

Return the pan to the stovetop, turn the heat to medium-high, add the canola oil, and swirl it around the pan so that it coats the sides. After about 30 seconds, add the cauliflower and arrange it with a wooden spoon so that it covers the bottom of the pan in a single layer. Let it sit for a couple of minutes. Stir, and continue to cook the cauliflower, stirring it only every few minutes so that it browns.

Cook until the cauliflower begins to soften, but is still quite firm, about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and add a splash or two of white wine. Stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up any of the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Pour into the bowl with the onions. Let cool for a few minutes.

Add all of the remaining ingredients to the cauliflower except the egg and Gorgonzola. Stir well to incorporate. Add most of the egg, but reserve a few tablespoons to use later to brush the dough. Mix the egg in quickly so that it fully incorporates but doesn't scramble.

Assemble the tart: Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and unwrap it. Generously flour the counter and the top of the dough and roll the dough into a large circle, at least 15 inches across, adding more flour if needed to keep the dough from sticking. Transfer the dough to the baking sheet. It's okay if it hangs over the sides at this point because it will be folded onto the sheet after the filling is added.

Spoon the cauliflower mixture onto the dough, leaving a 2- to 3-inch border around the edge. Spread the filling out evenly. Sprinkle the Gorgonzola over the filling. Starting on one side, fold the dough from the edge of the circle up over the filling. Continue around the entire circle, pleating the dough as you go and leaving a wide opening in the center.

Brush the top of the dough with the remaining egg. If you have any left over, drizzle it over the top of the cauliflower in the middle of the tart. Bake until the tart's crust is golden brown, 50 minutes to an hour.

Remove the tart from the oven and let it rest for about 5 minutes before serving.

* If you have a decent bottle open from last night, use it. Otherwise, open the Bedlam, use what you need for the recipe, and pour yourself a glass to sip while you cook. But save some for dinner!

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