A few weeks back, my sister, Sarah, (who I have written about before, she of Black Ankle Vineyards fame) sent me a flyer saying that Maryland's Governor, Martin O'Malley, is hosting a "Buy Local Cookout" and inviting Maryland cooks and farmers to team up to submit recipes. The best recipes will be selected, and the winners will be invited to serve them at the Cookout.
I was thrilled. This is up my alley in so many ways: promoting local farmers, cooking with local ingredients, cooking delicious food, eating delicious food, and a huge party to celebrate . . .
So, of course, the wheels began turning immediately. My problem is that Black Ankle wine is way too delicious to use for cooking. Yes, yes, I know that there's a whole theory about cooking with the best possible wine, but after seeing the years and years of hard work that have gone into getting that wine into a bottle, there's just no way I can bring myself to cook with it. Anyway, I'd much rather drink it.
There are some possibilities for other dishes originating at Black Ankle, though. They have chickens that they keep at the farm as a pest management system. The chickens eat the bugs so the bugs can't eat the grapes. Well, that's the idea anyway. So there are lots of fresh eggs. And, of course, where there are grapes, there are grape leaves.
So Black Ankle Vineyards and hidethecheese.com are submitting two recipes: my taco frittata and this new recipe for stuffed grape leaves. These aren't just any stuffed grape leaves, though. They are made with nearly all local ingredients. In addition to Black Ankle grape leaves, they are made with a chevre from Maryland's own Cherry Glen, and rosemary that I bought at the farmer's market. To finish them off, I grilled them until they were nicely browned and the cheese inside was melted. Delicious! They would be excellent paired with Black Ankle's 2007 Bedlam or their 2006 Syrah.
If you have access to fresh grape leaves, you will need to blanch them first to soften them. It is best to use grape leaves that are on the vines now, before they get too large and tough. And be sure to use leaves that are organic or cut them before they have been sprayed. If you can't get leaves from a vineyard or don't have a neighbor with a vine that is willing to part with a few leaves, you can buy grape leaves in a jar.
This was my first time rolling grape leaves. It's a bit like a burrito, so the concept wasn't too complicated. The kids loved helping with this part. I wish I could say that the lumpy ones were theirs, but they did a great job. Mine, on the other hand, would send a shudder up the spines of Greek grandmothers everywhere.
Now just keep your fingers crossed that these recipes are a hit at the Governor's mansion.
Grilled Grape Leaves Stuffed with Goat Cheese, Pine Nuts, and Rosemary
If you would like to make this recipe in advance, you can do everything but grill the grape leaves ahead of time. Pop them on the grill just before you are ready to serve them.
approximately 20 fresh grape leaves (or grape leaves from a jar)
1 cup Cherry Glen chevre (or substitute another mild, creamy chevre)
2 cups cooked brown rice
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1/3 cup toasted pine nuts
salt and pepper to taste
a splash or two of olive oil, if desired (I used about 2 to 3 tablespoons), plus more for brushing
If you are using fresh grape leaves, bring a pot of water to boil. Add salt and the grape leaves one at a time. Turn off the water and let the grape leaves sit in the pot, covered, for 8 to 10 minutes. The best way to test whether they are done it to scoop out a leaf, tear off a corner, and test it. The leaf will be done when it is easy to chew. When the leaves are tender, drain them into a colander, and run cold water on top to cool them. Carefully remove the leaves one at a time from the colander and lay them out flat on a dry kitchen towel. Briefly press another towel on top of the grape leaves to dry them, then remove it and let the leaves air dry.
Meanwhile, make the filling. Mix together the goat cheese, rice, rosemary, and pine nuts. Taste and add salt and pepper. If the filling seems a bit dry, add a few splashes of olive oil and mix again.
Lay a grape leaf with the vein side up on a cutting board and remove any stem from below the leaf (do not remove the central vein of the leaf itself). Add about 1 tablespoon of the filling towards the bottom of the leaf. Fold up the bottom and the sides and then tuck down the top. It may seem like it won't stay together, but just tuck in all the ends, and they will hold well. Repeat this process until you have used all your leaves and filling. Brush both sides of each grape leaf with olive oil.
Heat the grill to medium-high heat. Arrange the stuffed grape leaves on the grill with the seam side down and cook until they are slightly charred, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and cook on the other side. Serve whole or sliced diagonally in half.
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