Black Calypso Beans with Sage

I keep hearing about Rancho Gordo beans.  The first time I read about them was in this post on one of my favorite cooking sites, 101 Cookbooks.  I checked out the website and was intrigued by the different varieties of heirloom beans.  I added "order Rancho Gordo beans" to my to do list.  I didn't get around to doing the actual ordering, but carried it over from list to list.  Then, a few weeks ago, I opened the New York Times magazine and saw that the entire recipe page was devoted to Rancho Gordo beans.  The article described how Steve Sando, Rancho Gordo's owner, came to be a bean collecter, and his quest to collect forgotten beans that had originated in the Americas.  It was a great article, but I think that the picture of Sando with his children eating a pot of beans is what really hooked me.  Hoping that my morning started earlier than that of most New Yorkers, I got right on line hoping to order my beans before they sold out.

So we all huddled around the computer and ordered beans.  Chloe chose some Santa Maria Pinquitos, Olivia chose the Yellow Indian Woman beans, and Oscar chose the Midnight Black Beans.  I think they all chose by the colors, which are quite appealing.  Throw in a few more that I wanted to try, like Borlotti frequently used in Italian minestrones, Flageolet which the French often serve with lamb, and the Vallarta that is the favorite of Thomas Keller from the fabled French Laundry in Napa Valley, and we soon had ourselves a houseful of beans.  

The kids were eager to try them, and we first chose to make the Black Calypso beans.  I didn't want anything too complicated because I wanted to be able to taste the flavor of the bean.  The package said that these beans have a potato-y flavor and recommended trying them with sage.  That sounded perfect to me.

 
Well, now I see what all the fuss is about.  The beans were smooth and creamy, and they definitely had a potato flavor to them.  Their broth, especially cooked with the sage,  made an aromatic stew.  As Chloe so aptly put it after two bites, "These beans are delicious!"

The beans are dried, but because they are fresher than supermarket dried beans, they take less time to cook.  The flavor is also fresher.  If you don't use Rancho Gordo beans, pinto beans would make a reasonable substitute, or you may be able to find another interesting heirloom bean near you.

This recipe is very simple to make.  The preparation just requires chopping garlic, onion, and sage.  The beans could use a 6 hour or more soak, but if you haven't time for that, just factor some extra simmer time.  The beans retain their beautiful speckles throughout cooking, although the spots go from black to brown.

Black Calypso Beans with Sage

Serves 6
15 minutes preparation time, plus soaking time
approximately 2 hours cooking time

1 pound Black Calypso Beans (or dried pinto beans)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 of a large onion, chopped (approximately 1 1/2 to 2 cups)
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 tablespoons sage, chopped
2 teaspoons salt

Soak the beans for 6 or more hours in enough water to generously cover them, or bring them to a boil and let them simmer until tender (1-2 hours).

In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil, then add the onion and garlic and cook until they are soft, about 5 minutes.  Add the sage and cook for another 2 or 3 minutes.  Add the beans with their soaking/simmering water and let simmer until the beans are soft, at least 15 minutes.

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Comments

[Andrea]

I want some, too...I just looked at the website, and it seems they are already out of the Black Calypso. I guess you really did beat the rush.

[Margy]

That's too bad! I don't know if they've sold out of other varieties, but tehre are lots of other interesting types. If you try something else, let us know how you like them.

[Peter Dunne]

I got some black calypso beans from Rancho Gordo in May 2009. I don't usually use sage in my cooking but tried your recipe, very good. Thanks! Have been getting beans from Steve Sando for 4+ years. RG beans clearly superior to other sources. NY Times article well deserved, just hope it doesn't mean a continuous scarce supply!

[Margy]

Hi, Peter,

I'm gald you enjoyed the recipe. I was on the RG website recently and they still seemed to have a great selection, although I think I'd better not get too attached to any one variety. I just posted a recipe for a salad with RG Moro beans, if you have those in your cupboard.

[Olivia Wurster]

Hi, thanks for posting this. I know its been awhile, and I read it when you first posted it. And now, now... I have the bean bug. I've ordered some and plan to order the gift basket for family members for Christmas. I found your blog from MOTH... do you know what that is? I hope so.

I wanted to order some beans so we could try the difference and grow some in our new home in Rabat. Back in the states we were vegetarians, and I used a number of your recipes when we hit a dinner slump. Here, it is much, much harder to keep to just vegetables, and last night I put my foot down and requested more beans. My husband was leery, since I did buy a number of US shipped beans that are obviously old and not marked. Just some generic white and black beans. However, this morning he says to me, 'I think you're right, we should buy some heirloom beans, they are interesting.'. Now we have a large shipment coming. I'm so excited. Thank you again for posting about beans, please if possible post more bean recipes. We're going to need them!

[Jean Prescott]

I've just finished making a pot of these and they are fantastic. In fact, they may replace black-eyed peas as my go-to bean recipe (hope none of my neighbors are reading this...black-eyed peas are sacred in the Deep South). The simplicity of this recipe concerned me, but I shouldn't have worried. What a treat. Thank you, thank you. Now all I have to do is whip up a pan of cornbread to go with them. Thanks again.